Vinnie D's Content
There have been 97 items by Vinnie D (Search limited from 27-January 97)
#237939 Yalpam Ii
Posted by
on 22 June 2009 - 04:26 AM
in
Modifications
Even looking at the pictures I can say that thing is quite intimidating to look down the wrong end of. Nicely done.
#248622 Why Brass And Not Copper?
Posted by
on 26 August 2009 - 03:26 AM
in
General Nerf
I have found a few uses for copper, but none as a really reliable barrel. If you use silicon lube spray on it to improve the dart's slide through it makes for a decent RSCB. I've also used it in my Longshot to stabilize the dart's flight a little. It actually reduces the range but cuts back on the fishtailing for more accuracy, though I imagine the right size brass could do just the same if cut properly, though it's not available in my area.
I've seen at least one recon mod make use of copper in the barrel extension. Trying it myself I got much the same results as with the longshot. Stability gained at the cost of range.
So I suppose it's good if you need a loose barrel that a dart can easily slide in and out of. I wouldn't advise it for barrels in general though. I get far better results from CPVC which is cheaper and easier to to cut.
I've seen at least one recon mod make use of copper in the barrel extension. Trying it myself I got much the same results as with the longshot. Stability gained at the cost of range.
So I suppose it's good if you need a loose barrel that a dart can easily slide in and out of. I wouldn't advise it for barrels in general though. I get far better results from CPVC which is cheaper and easier to to cut.
#212366 What Guns Do You Use?
Posted by
on 15 February 2009 - 02:27 AM
in
General Nerf
Right now I like using my Big Bad Bow, singled with a breech, nitefinder in the front handle, and a pocket blaster integrated into the nitefinder, lastly a Switch shot in the scope, with a reinforced recon stock on the back. I call it the Hydra. Yes it's a bunch of guns slapped on a BBB but it's pretty effective.
For a secondary I use a recon stripped down to the pistol. A nice clean clip fed sidearm, you can't beat the recon.
For indoor, I'm working on a longshot as a primary, but it's still incomplete. Until then, the same recon with a powerstock, is my primary with a maverick as a sidearm.
For a secondary I use a recon stripped down to the pistol. A nice clean clip fed sidearm, you can't beat the recon.
For indoor, I'm working on a longshot as a primary, but it's still incomplete. Until then, the same recon with a powerstock, is my primary with a maverick as a sidearm.
#217424 The Use Of Duct Tape In Nerfing...
Posted by
on 11 March 2009 - 01:19 AM
in
Modifications
Yeah I use the same method (sticky out then sticky in) to make stuff. Thanks to this thread I whipped up a nice new holster for my recon (my side arm of choice).
And actually it is Duck Tape now. The company that makes it changed the name a few years back. It was never good for duct work anyway. Though I believe Duct tape would be the name most generic brands would use. I should be more observant when buying.
And actually it is Duck Tape now. The company that makes it changed the name a few years back. It was never good for duct work anyway. Though I believe Duct tape would be the name most generic brands would use. I should be more observant when buying.
#218749 The Use Of Duct Tape In Nerfing...
Posted by
on 19 March 2009 - 06:14 AM
in
Modifications
It's really just a question of how careful you are in handling it. Go a little bit at a time and make sure you make good edges. You want to leave some space in there around the gun (less for the clip) so you can quickly draw it. I suppose it's a question of how you think though. Measuring is great for people who have a head for numbers. I'm more of a tactile kind of thinker though, so I like working more directly with the gun.
But it's good to have info on both methods, since there are both numeric and tactile thinkers out there. Thankfully Duck tape is a friendly medium for both.
But it's good to have info on both methods, since there are both numeric and tactile thinkers out there. Thankfully Duck tape is a friendly medium for both.
#215702 The Use Of Duct Tape In Nerfing...
Posted by
on 01 March 2009 - 05:24 AM
in
Modifications
Nice job. I built a similar holster myself, but it didn't occur to me to use colored ductape to get that nice leather look. Maybe it's due for an extra layer.
#271272 The Secretstrike Internals Revealed
Posted by
on 04 April 2010 - 02:36 AM
in
Modifications
Looks like plugging the valve on it should be incredibly easy. This is a great contribution to the community involving a blaster that pretty much everyone loves. Great job.
#237064 The Guns You Don't Use Anymore
Posted by
on 18 June 2009 - 02:41 AM
in
General Nerf
Not counting the ones in the "to mod" pile, I usually don't use my Nitefinder. It's a good gun, and my first mod, but my recon has replaced it as a pistol, and it's too bulky to be a tertiary, still I like it too much to cut down any more, so it stays as a display gun. Though I have a second Nitefinder integrated into my BBB that sees plenty of use.
I'd say the only other gun I don't use at all is my Hornet. It's pretty much a one trick pony. It can shoot one guy six times. I modded it into a spread fire, plugged the pump and used Ts to double the firing capacity for a wide spread. Still a one trick pony, and good luck finding those 12 darts shot in 12 directions. It's being used for parts now.
I almost never touch my Maverick anymore, for the same reason as the Nitefinder, my Recon outperforms it in every category. Though friends enjoy messing around with it due to the revolver aspect.
I'd say the only other gun I don't use at all is my Hornet. It's pretty much a one trick pony. It can shoot one guy six times. I modded it into a spread fire, plugged the pump and used Ts to double the firing capacity for a wide spread. Still a one trick pony, and good luck finding those 12 darts shot in 12 directions. It's being used for parts now.
I almost never touch my Maverick anymore, for the same reason as the Nitefinder, my Recon outperforms it in every category. Though friends enjoy messing around with it due to the revolver aspect.
#235385 The Gemini
Posted by
on 10 June 2009 - 01:44 AM
in
Modifications
Was this by chance inspired by the pistol in Batman: Face the Face? It's very reminiscent of the pistol used to commit the double headshot murders.
#223339 The Avenger (a Nitemanta With Added Awesomeness
Posted by
on 13 April 2009 - 01:08 AM
in
Modifications
Well it certainly looks nice, but if you'd done them side by side instead of manta style you'd have gotten a lot less dead space. Though it probably wouldn't have looked quite as good. Also is that barrel long enough to really take advantage of the extra air displacement? But again it does at least look cool if nothing else.
#223533 The Avenger (a Nitemanta With Added Awesomeness
Posted by
on 14 April 2009 - 03:20 AM
in
Modifications
Wouldn't it be simple to just use that T joint as a coupler and rig up a speed loader? Then just glue a dowel between the two priming handles to make one big priming handle (or run a lanyard like the double maverick) and connect the triggers with a chunk of plexiglass or scrap plastic. Then it should be pretty functional.
If you want to get crazy with it you could attach a handle to the side to improve your aim, though that would make the whole rig bulkier.
If you want to get crazy with it you could attach a handle to the side to improve your aim, though that would make the whole rig bulkier.
#243975 The 'real' Longshot [cpvc Coupler]
Posted by
on 26 July 2009 - 02:59 AM
in
Modifications
Thanks. That one's been bugging me for a while. I'd been considering the same idea, but I didn't think it would work for some reason. Now that someone has been brave enough to risk it, I can go ahead. This could very well revolutionize the longshot. No longer is a good breech restricted to those with access to brass and metal working skills.
#228059 Switchshot Ex-3
Posted by
on 04 May 2009 - 05:06 AM
in
Modifications
I've done this one as well, to integrate with my BBB, and I can tell you, the switch shot does better with CPVC. A maverick spring is also a pefect addition to get more oomph out of it. It's also possible to slightly increase the air displacement by moving the tube up a bit thus increasing the plunger travel.
#243795 Stefan Help.
Posted by
on 25 July 2009 - 03:38 AM
in
General Nerf
I buy 1/2" foam and 1/2" CPVC from Lowes and the two work together perfectly. Their foam is a gray color and very light feeling (much lighter than normal darts). Next time buy both at the same place. For now try stretching your foam to thin it out, or failing that check that you didn't use too much hot glue in the heads.
If your current foam is just useless you can always find other uses for it. Padding guns, or Hey, weatherstrip your house.
If your current foam is just useless you can always find other uses for it. Padding guns, or Hey, weatherstrip your house.
#280913 Stampede Official Nerf Demo Coverage
Posted by
on 21 July 2010 - 09:44 PM
in
General Nerf
The vulcan still does kind of fill a niche in a way. the 25 shot belt is still more than the stampede's extended clips (not sure if the stampede will work with a drum, that might throw the timing off). So if you just need a long stream of automatic fire it might be functional. Plus I still like its overall look. Maybe not a functional gun but it certainly is a fun type of gun.
With an expanded ammo box, and doubled chains, and a plug in mod, the vulcan can still function as a stationary emplacement. Though the Stampede is certainly a sturdier and more mobile kind of gun. I'd say it fills the role of a machine gun. Light and high rate of fire, while the Vulcan is a stationary machine gun, big, heavy and high capacity.
Though it seems most of the N-strike series is centered around the idea of every gun being just slightly different, to fill different niches. Like the Alpha Trooper which is basically a more balanced raider at the cost of smaller capacity, or the Deploy which is a good light secondary weapon. Not as light as a pistol recon, but the pump grip gives it better handling, for a higher rate of fire.
Still the Stampede does look like a solid weapon for those who love high rate of fire. I do wonder about modding potential. Outside of minimization I don't see much you can do without messing it up. I'm hoping this means that Vulcans go on clearance. I've been meaning to pick one up on the cheap to screw around with.
With an expanded ammo box, and doubled chains, and a plug in mod, the vulcan can still function as a stationary emplacement. Though the Stampede is certainly a sturdier and more mobile kind of gun. I'd say it fills the role of a machine gun. Light and high rate of fire, while the Vulcan is a stationary machine gun, big, heavy and high capacity.
Though it seems most of the N-strike series is centered around the idea of every gun being just slightly different, to fill different niches. Like the Alpha Trooper which is basically a more balanced raider at the cost of smaller capacity, or the Deploy which is a good light secondary weapon. Not as light as a pistol recon, but the pump grip gives it better handling, for a higher rate of fire.
Still the Stampede does look like a solid weapon for those who love high rate of fire. I do wonder about modding potential. Outside of minimization I don't see much you can do without messing it up. I'm hoping this means that Vulcans go on clearance. I've been meaning to pick one up on the cheap to screw around with.
#229138 Spring Powered Nerf Pocket Scatter (s.p.n.p.s.)
Posted by
on 09 May 2009 - 02:19 AM
in
Modifications
Man, these look great for assassin games. Maybe not so much for offense, but as a defensive measure when you're the target, it would be awesome. When you see someone pull a SSPB or a minimized Nitefinder, you quickly scattershot and run. Even if they don't land a hit, that many darts coming their way would gorce your opponent to at least duck.
Maybe for a grenade function, consider some kind of break way pin. Turn it to firing position, with only a small fragile pin (maybe a toothpick) keeping it from firing, so that an impact is all it takes to break or dislodge the pin.
Even better if you could make a battery of these things, and rig them with a pull cord or a tripwire. Nerf Mines. I see integration possibilities as well. Just like those 20mm airburst guns built into the U.N.'s assault rifles.
Maybe for a grenade function, consider some kind of break way pin. Turn it to firing position, with only a small fragile pin (maybe a toothpick) keeping it from firing, so that an impact is all it takes to break or dislodge the pin.
Even better if you could make a battery of these things, and rig them with a pull cord or a tripwire. Nerf Mines. I see integration possibilities as well. Just like those 20mm airburst guns built into the U.N.'s assault rifles.
#229143 Spring Powered Nerf Pocket Scatter (s.p.n.p.s.)
Posted by
on 09 May 2009 - 04:41 AM
in
Modifications
I'm not familiar enough with the workings myself really, so it was just a vague idea. Sorry.
#218692 Singled Recon?
Posted by
on 18 March 2009 - 08:53 PM
in
Modifications
If you're going to single something, single the longshot. The Recon's strength is its clip feed mechanism, allowing for high rate of fire, and faster reloading. The whole reason people hate the Recon is they keep trying to make it a primary, and a primary it is not. It's a pistol, a secondary. It out ranges the Maverick, and reloads faster, that's its strength.
To single it would destroy its only real value. You CAN do it if you want to, but the only reason to do it would be entirely out of experimentation to see if it can be done.
If you do want to use the recon build yourself a holster, get a second clip, consider making a hi-cap clip, remove the locks and safeties, put a second spring in the catch, and work on improving reliability rather than range. It's one of those guns you have to come at from a different angle. If you just think of range mods you'll be doing yourself a disservice.
To single it would destroy its only real value. You CAN do it if you want to, but the only reason to do it would be entirely out of experimentation to see if it can be done.
If you do want to use the recon build yourself a holster, get a second clip, consider making a hi-cap clip, remove the locks and safeties, put a second spring in the catch, and work on improving reliability rather than range. It's one of those guns you have to come at from a different angle. If you just think of range mods you'll be doing yourself a disservice.
#272871 Singled Doubleshot Mod
Posted by
on 21 April 2010 - 03:32 AM
in
Modifications
I find that 3" is the ideal length for a double shot, so even at maximum output, a 6" barrel would be the longest you'd want on this thing to get the best ranges. It's a good idea what with it doubling the air displacement in your shot, but it seems that something is holding it back.
#265837 Reverse Plunger Dead Space Killing Method
Posted by
on 18 February 2010 - 04:23 AM
in
Modifications
I did something similar a while back though I used the shaft of a pen and hot glue instead. The results are about the same either way. More pressure with reduction of dead space but with reduced airflow due to higher resistance. It doesn't seem to change performance with the stock spring. If you powerstock it though you should see an improvement in performance.
This mod sounds easier though, and I'll probably use it next time I'm working on a reverse plunger.
This mod sounds easier though, and I'll probably use it next time I'm working on a reverse plunger.
#234576 Recon Straw Breech Mod
Posted by
on 06 June 2009 - 01:44 AM
in
Modifications
I've tried straw modding a recon myself, and found that although you reduce dead space, you need more force to push the air through the now constricted area. The result is with only the recon's standard spring, roughly identical ranges. With your barrel addition it might improve though. You do start to see performance increase if you can improve the spring's power to force the air through. You start seeing some nice ranges when you use a powerstock, thus giving you enough force to push air through the tighter space and have enough power left over to push the dart.
Basically a straw mod increases air volume delivered to the dart, but decreases the air velocity, so you need more spring power to make up for it. The upside I've found, and you may notice it yourself, is that this increases resistance to the plunger when it hits the end of the tube thus giving you a slight air cushion reducing wear and tear on your plunger and silencing the recon a bit. I'd still advise adding a felt pad or a bit of foam to the back of the plunger though.
Basically a straw mod increases air volume delivered to the dart, but decreases the air velocity, so you need more spring power to make up for it. The upside I've found, and you may notice it yourself, is that this increases resistance to the plunger when it hits the end of the tube thus giving you a slight air cushion reducing wear and tear on your plunger and silencing the recon a bit. I'd still advise adding a felt pad or a bit of foam to the back of the plunger though.
#230116 Recon Stock Spring Addition
Posted by
on 14 May 2009 - 01:40 AM
in
Modifications
Okay, to determine your problem you need to know if the slider will still go all the way back into the position where it should lock.
If it's going all the way back but not locking, your problem is in the catch. just double up the spring there. Any decently strong powerstock mod will require strengthening the catch spring.
If it won't go all the way back, the AR-15 spring is just too long and even fully compressed it's not going to reach the catch. In that case, you need to move the base of the spring further back, or cut the spring down.
If it's going all the way back but not locking, your problem is in the catch. just double up the spring there. Any decently strong powerstock mod will require strengthening the catch spring.
If it won't go all the way back, the AR-15 spring is just too long and even fully compressed it's not going to reach the catch. In that case, you need to move the base of the spring further back, or cut the spring down.
#204056 Recon Spring Addition With Removable Stock
Posted by
on 17 January 2009 - 03:41 AM
in
Modifications
If you have a short plunger recon, it's the perfect length to just place the spring against the mid section of the stock. If you bolt the tube to the rods of the stock it should actually help to reinforce the stock. Though it is cool to see one more variant on this mod. Glue sticks are just the right size.
#220417 Recon Bolt/slide Not Locking?
Posted by
on 29 March 2009 - 03:31 AM
in
General Nerf
Okay this is a problem you'll get with any recon mod that ups the power of the gun. You need to improve the catch spring. Adding a second spring is one way (I usually put a second spring that's just slightly wider around it). This will cause the catch to hold stronger allowing more potent springs. You'd pretty much need this for a powerstock.
Stretching the recon spring isn't a good mod in the long run since the spring eventually goes back to its original length and loses some of its strength. Do the spring compressing mod instead. Much more better for the gun and more reliable results.
Stretching the recon spring isn't a good mod in the long run since the spring eventually goes back to its original length and loses some of its strength. Do the spring compressing mod instead. Much more better for the gun and more reliable results.
#239885 Recon Ball Launcher Attachment
Posted by
on 02 July 2009 - 08:11 PM
in
Modifications
I can attest that shortening a reactor DOES improve range. The increased compression of the spring causes it to push the ball tighter against the lip, and create a better seal allowing more air pressure to work on the ball. It also decreases dead space which is always good.
#239698 Recon Ball Launcher Attachment
Posted by
on 01 July 2009 - 10:45 PM
in
Modifications
Cool, so I wasn't the only one who saw value in that idea. I've got pretty much the same setup but with a longshot. Glad to see other people using ball ammo. It has certain advantages, especially in tight indoor wars.
#254858 Rebarrelling Buzzbee Belt Blaster Shells
Posted by
on 29 October 2009 - 02:01 PM
in
Modifications
Ranges right now are inconsistent, but they've gone up to 52' so far. However the gun its self is also modded with a nitefinder spring and a PVC barrel. I think the barrel is causing the inconsistencies. This is more of a general mod for all buzzbee shells so ranges will vary according to the gun you use.
#254921 Rebarrelling Buzzbee Belt Blaster Shells
Posted by
on 30 October 2009 - 02:30 AM
in
Modifications
Sorry about the blurry pics. I had to turn the flash off because they were coming out overexposed in my workspace. The pics that are clear are those I moved out of the workspace into a darker area with flash.
To answer the questions. I doubt an air gun could rotate the belt without serious work. If you check some of the other belt blaster writups you'll see that it rotates much like a firefly with a piece sliding through a gear with the same stroke you prime with.
To get a nitefinder spring in you'll have to cut it down a bit. It took a lot of experimentation and I only gained slightly more power for all the work. Since the NF has more coils than the Belt Blaster spring it's longer when compressed so I had to cut it shorter, then stretch it. Though the gauge of wire in the spring is also thicker than the belt blaster so even after doing this it is just slightly stronger. I wouldn't recommend it, it's more work than you'll get in return. To get to the spring you'll have to pry out a metal pin. A flathead screwdriver should do it, similar to the way you remove a Maverick Cylinder.
My belt doesn't come apart easily. There's probably some quality control issues with buzzbee products but I got a pretty solid belt.
To answer the questions. I doubt an air gun could rotate the belt without serious work. If you check some of the other belt blaster writups you'll see that it rotates much like a firefly with a piece sliding through a gear with the same stroke you prime with.
To get a nitefinder spring in you'll have to cut it down a bit. It took a lot of experimentation and I only gained slightly more power for all the work. Since the NF has more coils than the Belt Blaster spring it's longer when compressed so I had to cut it shorter, then stretch it. Though the gauge of wire in the spring is also thicker than the belt blaster so even after doing this it is just slightly stronger. I wouldn't recommend it, it's more work than you'll get in return. To get to the spring you'll have to pry out a metal pin. A flathead screwdriver should do it, similar to the way you remove a Maverick Cylinder.
My belt doesn't come apart easily. There's probably some quality control issues with buzzbee products but I got a pretty solid belt.
#254848 Rebarrelling Buzzbee Belt Blaster Shells
Posted by
on 29 October 2009 - 02:23 AM
in
Modifications
I've seen few attempts at modding the Belt Blaster, and even fewer that focus on the shells, so I thought since I actually pulled it off successfully, I'd make this my first real write up. Apologies in advance for the blurriness of some of the pictures.
First of all. Don't do this.
Cutting off the front removes a ridge that is needed for the chain to feed properly. Thankfully I only made this mistake once, and as long as good shells are on either side of it in the chain, this shell still feeds and fires properly.
Now on to actual modding. Here we have one of those tricky bastards.
If you look very closely at the base you'll see a small ridge where there is a cap glued into place on the inside of the shell. Start by making a small cut along that ridge.
It only needs to be deep enough to give you something to dig into. Now insert the point of a knife into that cut and using very light pressure work the knife in.
Remember LIGHT pressure. When the plastic gives it will give suddenly. I have a stab wound on my left hand to prove it. Just work at it gradually until your knife slides in. I'd really advise using a smaller knife than the one I'm using. This is pretty dangerous.
Once the knife is in start sliding it around the edge to cut the cap off. You don't need to make a straight cut, in fact you'll probably slip and go from cutting under the ridge to over it. that's not a bad thing, in fact it will probably make things faster, and help you line the cap up when you're putting it back.
Behold. Ye olde guts. Look how much dead space that AR created, almost an inch. With that cockblocking bastard out of the way, you can get your darts further in, use steffans, or streamlines. Yours will look slightly different from mine if you're going from stock shells. I drilled out the pegs earlier.
Now you can cut the entire peg off down to the base. I'd aslo advise carving that hole out wider. (also done previously), and you should have this nice clean cap with nothing sticking out.
Now measure out some CPVC or barrel material of choice, put some hot glue around the end that will face the front of the shell. and pus it as far in as it will go. The glue around the front should be thick so it can smear around the inside and fill in to make a better seal.
Lastly put a ring of glue around the back of the pipe and pop the cap back on, push down hard to get it all the way down, remove any extra glue, smooth out the edges and you're done.
Now just do it 29 more times and you have a full chain. I'd advise setting up an assembly line process to make it quicker. Cutting out all your barrels ahead of time will make things much easier.
And there you have it. Go shoot some zombies.
First of all. Don't do this.
Cutting off the front removes a ridge that is needed for the chain to feed properly. Thankfully I only made this mistake once, and as long as good shells are on either side of it in the chain, this shell still feeds and fires properly.
Now on to actual modding. Here we have one of those tricky bastards.
If you look very closely at the base you'll see a small ridge where there is a cap glued into place on the inside of the shell. Start by making a small cut along that ridge.
It only needs to be deep enough to give you something to dig into. Now insert the point of a knife into that cut and using very light pressure work the knife in.
Remember LIGHT pressure. When the plastic gives it will give suddenly. I have a stab wound on my left hand to prove it. Just work at it gradually until your knife slides in. I'd really advise using a smaller knife than the one I'm using. This is pretty dangerous.
Once the knife is in start sliding it around the edge to cut the cap off. You don't need to make a straight cut, in fact you'll probably slip and go from cutting under the ridge to over it. that's not a bad thing, in fact it will probably make things faster, and help you line the cap up when you're putting it back.
Behold. Ye olde guts. Look how much dead space that AR created, almost an inch. With that cockblocking bastard out of the way, you can get your darts further in, use steffans, or streamlines. Yours will look slightly different from mine if you're going from stock shells. I drilled out the pegs earlier.
Now you can cut the entire peg off down to the base. I'd aslo advise carving that hole out wider. (also done previously), and you should have this nice clean cap with nothing sticking out.
Now measure out some CPVC or barrel material of choice, put some hot glue around the end that will face the front of the shell. and pus it as far in as it will go. The glue around the front should be thick so it can smear around the inside and fill in to make a better seal.
Lastly put a ring of glue around the back of the pipe and pop the cap back on, push down hard to get it all the way down, remove any extra glue, smooth out the edges and you're done.
Now just do it 29 more times and you have a full chain. I'd advise setting up an assembly line process to make it quicker. Cutting out all your barrels ahead of time will make things much easier.
And there you have it. Go shoot some zombies.
#203255 Rear Loading Maverick
Posted by
on 14 January 2009 - 02:04 AM
in
Modifications
I can imagine that there's some desire here for the aesthetic value of reloading the rear of the cylinder since Mavericks are essentially revolvers. That's part of the reason why everyone likes to mod the cylinder to swing out further, and I always enjoy spinning mine before slapping it back in. But the cylinder on the mav is just too tiny and exacting to push air through those barrels. maybe if you made a nitemav out of it.
#246676 Raider Cs-35: Overview / Overhaul
Posted by
on 12 August 2009 - 02:50 AM
in
Modifications
To fix your fishtailing problem, at least judging from doing the same with a recon, you can weight those darts for starters. Streamlines are easy to mod. Slit the hole slightly wider, pop a BB or other weight of choice in there, and fill with hot glue. If you're going cheap, you can just fill with hot glue, but the BB helps.
Consider changing out the barrel on the front. Those faux barrels like the ones in the longshot and recon actually screw up air dynamics on the dart and throw it off. CPVC is too tight, but PVC or copper should stabalize the flight a little. I haven't tried with PVC, but my longshot works well with copper, though it does cost you a few feet in range, the accuracy improvement might be worth it.
Consider changing out the barrel on the front. Those faux barrels like the ones in the longshot and recon actually screw up air dynamics on the dart and throw it off. CPVC is too tight, but PVC or copper should stabalize the flight a little. I haven't tried with PVC, but my longshot works well with copper, though it does cost you a few feet in range, the accuracy improvement might be worth it.
#237721 Question About The Recon
Posted by
on 21 June 2009 - 02:11 AM
in
General Nerf
If you have the long black tube and a newer recon, you can put a NF spring in between the old cap and the new plunger.....
Don
I can attest to that. I did so with my recon, and it's quite effective. It's like having a powerstock but with the easy handling of a pistol.
#249171 Question About Pump Volumes
Posted by
on 31 August 2009 - 04:01 AM
in
Modifications
You could always try a mini bike pump, just remember to be careful with it. I've had some success with a dual action mini pump on a big blast. I'd suggest looking into things non nerf. Most any bike pump will have more volume than a Nerf pump, meaning fewer pumps, and some have the double action meaning it pumps on both the in and out stroke resulting in half the pumps needed. Just don't get carried away with it or things explode.
#261162 Problems With Nf
Posted by
on 08 January 2010 - 06:12 AM
in
Modifications
10 feet? I think you should be getting better than that even with a stock barrel. Your barrel must either be way too wide or way too long for that to be the issue. Check your plunger head. Did you remove, stretch, or deform the O ring? If so that would cause the plunger to slow down drastically.
One nerfer posted a nitefinder with extension springs. You just add them to the outside to pull the priming rod in, just as you would with rubber bands or bungies. But this looks like you're not getting much air to the dart. There's something big you've missed and the spring isn't the issue.
One nerfer posted a nitefinder with extension springs. You just add them to the outside to pull the priming rod in, just as you would with rubber bands or bungies. But this looks like you're not getting much air to the dart. There's something big you've missed and the spring isn't the issue.
#228749 Plastic Safe Lubricants
Posted by
on 07 May 2009 - 05:51 AM
in
General Nerf
Oh, thanks a ton. That's a huge relief actually. I was thinking that it just ate translucent plastics much like the fumes of superglue do.
#227820 Plastic Safe Lubricants
Posted by
on 03 May 2009 - 01:50 AM
in
General Nerf
I've been trying some silicon lubricant spray (applies like WD40), to good end. Just let me warn you not to use it on, or near clear or translucent plastics. It makes a sticky cloudy mess. Discovered this while lubing up the axle of my Yoyo (another of my hobbies). Thankfully I only hit the inside so no cosmetic damage done and it doesn't seem to hurt the performance. The ball bearings now spin like never before by the way, so it does lube well.
#206136 Nite Wiinder
Posted by
on 25 January 2009 - 05:37 AM
in
Modifications
You know I hear conflicting accounts. Some say the Switch Shot AR is very difficult to remove but My own I was able to break out with just my hands. I slipped in an extra maverick spring, plugged the hole, and CPVCed it, integrated with my BBB and it shoots dead even with my Bungied Nitefinder. The case as a Wii Zapper by the way is excellent. Even beats out the Nyko perfect shot. I've been kicking ass on House of the Dead with it.
But I'm getting off the subject. Maybe there are two models of this thing? One firmly glued and another with loose glue, or the loose glue is a fortunate defect.
But I'm getting off the subject. Maybe there are two models of this thing? One firmly glued and another with loose glue, or the loose glue is a fortunate defect.
#218750 Nf Ss
Posted by
on 19 March 2009 - 06:19 AM
in
Modifications
I agree that it's probably better to put the SSPB in the space where the light goes, but this same concept might work on other handguns which just have empty handguns and no space under the barrel, such as the maverick, though I see what you're going for is to get it to fire as much like a trigger as possible and have a pump in the handle. You could probably use the same concept from the pistol style mod, to move the barrel up into the undercarriage of the gun with some tubing, while keeping the body and trigger of the SSPB in the same place, that way you could get the best of both worlds.
Alternately I could see evil ways of using this configuration. Raising your gun as if to surrender then firing from the handle. It would be a bastard move yes, but a magnificent bastard move.
Alternately I could see evil ways of using this configuration. Raising your gun as if to surrender then firing from the handle. It would be a bastard move yes, but a magnificent bastard move.
#284907 New Shields?
Posted by
on 06 September 2010 - 02:22 AM
in
General Nerf
The stonewall is a decent shield in its self, but to balance things out, if someone is carrying a stonewall they should also occupy one of their weapon "slots" with the accompanying mini sword. If you for instance allow 3 weapons, a primary, a sidearm, and a melee, then they couldn't have a marauder with the shield. Perhaps even go as far as making the shield occupy another slot.
The best way to handle the stampede shield on the stampede would probably just be to not count gun hits when it's equipped. Though the shield its self would be more mobile if placed on a sidearm, so it's more the user trading off between the two advantages.
I'm in agreement that heavy ammo (arrows, missles, balls) should count as hits when they hit a shield, essentially making them shield piercers in function. And it gives people an excuse to use bigger ammo (that some of us plain find more fun. I like arrows myself.)
The best way to handle the stampede shield on the stampede would probably just be to not count gun hits when it's equipped. Though the shield its self would be more mobile if placed on a sidearm, so it's more the user trading off between the two advantages.
I'm in agreement that heavy ammo (arrows, missles, balls) should count as hits when they hit a shield, essentially making them shield piercers in function. And it gives people an excuse to use bigger ammo (that some of us plain find more fun. I like arrows myself.)
#211369 New Recon
Posted by
on 11 February 2009 - 06:17 AM
in
General Nerf
In my experience I've found that 1/2" FBR is just slightly more narrow than Streamlined darts, so the spring in the clip tends to push them up through the top causing jams in the recon. Doesn't happen all the time, but it does happen and it's quite annoying. You could try some slightly thicker FBR and stretching it, or what I did (before just giving up and going back to streamlines with hot glue in the heads) which was make cigars (steffans wrapped in a layer of E tape) giving them just a slightly bit more thickness.
Though making cigars seems to pretty well make your steffans incompatible with CPVC barrels. Though I'm not very good at making the things, so maybe you'll have better lack than I did.
Though making cigars seems to pretty well make your steffans incompatible with CPVC barrels. Though I'm not very good at making the things, so maybe you'll have better lack than I did.
