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Trigger Designs

What works and what doesnt work...READ!

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#26 Flaming Hilt

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Posted 21 July 2007 - 08:04 PM

You don't need plastic clothespins if you take care of them. Just don't hammer them to pieces, drill your holes nicely, and put super glue in any cracks you create. Treat them like your babies, and they'll be fine.

The metal piece is called an angle iron. It's in the metal fittings isle (next to hinges, maybe doorknobs... small metal attachments). They usually come in sets of four, I think the size I use is 3/4" and about $2.50 a pack.

Alternatively, you can use Hex Keys, they could be anywhere -- just ask. Any size will do; too small and you get less leverage, too big and it looks... too big. They're generally $0.25-0.75 depending on the size you get.

Whatever you use, zip tie it in place and hot glue around the edges. Put the angle in your piece closer to the coil of the spring on the clothespin for better leverage.

- - -

EDIT: Double posted. Kinda. For whatever reason. Anyways it's fixed. : o)

Edited by Flaming Hilt, 21 July 2007 - 08:18 PM.

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#27 Carbon

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Posted 21 July 2007 - 09:57 PM

Plastic clothespins are usually right next to the wood ones. I like plastic better than wood just because it's impervious to moisture and bonds better, but I think that wood just may be stronger. I've found that if the nail is too big, the clothespin is substantially weakened at the jaws...too big of a hole, and the tip can break off. That, and I think a roofing nail may just be too big...

Edited by Carbon, 21 July 2007 - 09:59 PM.

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#28 koolaidman43

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Posted 22 July 2007 - 07:47 PM

...I think a roofing nail may just be too big...

yeah, roofing nail + clothespin=fail

what size do you reccomend, then? and how long should it be, or does all of this rely on the size of the gun?
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#29 Carbon

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Posted 22 July 2007 - 07:55 PM

...I think a roofing nail may just be too big...

yeah, roofing nail + clothespin=fail

Not automatic, because I do have a roofing nail trigger installed on one of my guns...I've just found that if I'm not careful with the hole I drill (centered and not too big), it'll break. The margin for error is just smaller, is all. That, and I haven't tried making a roofing nail trigger with a wooden pin, so I'm not sure about how that would work.

what size do you reccomend, then? and how long should it be, or does all of this rely on the size of the gun?

I've been working off a light nail variety pack from Target since just about forever. The nails I've been using have a wider head (not a finishing nail), and about as thick as a pencil lead. Length doesn't matter: it'll get trimmed off and sanded, anyway.
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#30 koolaidman43

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Posted 22 July 2007 - 08:01 PM

yeah, i meant with a wooden pin.


wut u use to sand it down, just sand paper? ive tried that and it doesnt exactly work that well... 30 minutes, and all i got was the tip :D ...
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#31 monkey with a nf

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Posted 22 July 2007 - 09:00 PM

I used a dremel cutoff wheel, though it took a while and heated it up a lot. If you don't have that, I'd recommend a hacksaw, or maybe a file (to file through it).
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QUOTE(Pineapple @ Sep 12 2007, 03:13 PM) View Post

For maximum efficiency?


1. Pump up. Count how many pumps.

2. Keep going until you hear a loud "bang".

3. Subtract one pump from the total. Rebuild your air bladder.


There you go.

#32 Carbon

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Posted 22 July 2007 - 09:03 PM

wut u use to sand it down, just sand paper? ive tried that and it doesnt exactly work that well... 30 minutes, and all i got was the tip ...

All you need is the tip. You need to smooth and round the nail end a bit, so it doesn't scrape the endcap catchface and curved end.

I use a small file and fine grit sandpaper to round off the end. You could do the same with a dremel in 15 seconds, especially on the lighter type nails. Larger, heavier nails take more time. i used a dremel for the roofing nail, and it took a minute or two.

To cut the nail to length, I just use wire snips.

Edited by Carbon, 22 July 2007 - 09:04 PM.

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#33 FoxTrotter

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Posted 16 August 2007 - 05:49 AM

lol i hate triggers i usually use a shotgun cocking mechanism where i sling it back and i push it forward which fires the bullet.
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#34 Prometheus

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Posted 16 August 2007 - 04:49 PM

lol i hate triggers i usually use a shotgun cocking mechanism where i sling it back and i push it forward which fires the bullet.


What like a ramrocket gun. Fine, for you that works. What about people who want to use springs, or compressed air?
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#35 Kid Flash

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Posted 16 August 2007 - 05:52 PM

lol i hate triggers i usually use a shotgun cocking mechanism where i sling it back and i push it forward which fires the bullet.


What like a ramrocket gun. Fine, for you that works. What about people who want to use springs, or compressed air?

for compressed air dont people just use a pump valve think like out of a tire pump and 2 ball valves?
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#36 Recruit

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Posted 30 August 2007 - 06:48 AM

loads of Pneumatic valves
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#37 SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA

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Posted 08 September 2007 - 04:34 PM

Posted Image

My semi-automatic trigger valve. The air tank is the long open rectangle, with the actual valve in light green. The trigger itself is connected to the valve via the teal bar, and the two move in unison. The pair of diagrams to the right indicates the air flow. When the valve is closed, the main tank is primed through a secondary chamber linked to an external tank. The link is represented by the opening near the right side of the firing tank. The valve has holes drilled into it, with a stopper in place to ensure that the air from the secondary chamber will only go to the firing tank and not the barrel or whatever this system is to be linked to. When the valve is opened, the light-green piece slides back into the housing, closing off the route between the external and firing tanks. This also opens a new pathway from the main tank directly to the barrel. When the trigger is released, the valve returns to its closed position and the firing tank is re-primed. The dark green piece seen above the actual valve is a pressure-relief duct. When the trigger is released, the excess pressure in the valve itself is let out through this pipe. This is only needed if a bolt is operated by this valve, as it is in my in-planning "Spectre."

Close-up:

Posted Image

Pros:

The system allows for the trigger to be relocated to any convenient position instead of right next to the valve.

The system is simple

Cons:

The pressure in the firing tank will drop as the external tank is emptied, unless there is a Constant-Pressure System in it.

Fabrication is slightly more complex than similar valves.
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#38 Shadow 92

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Posted 20 September 2007 - 12:40 PM

After I spent sometime reading about how to modify a sprinkler valve on Spudfiles, I realized that all the blowgun trigger did was vent air. The length of time that the blowgun trigger was depressed was the amount of time that the valve was opened. So all I did was design a valve that vented pressure from the diaphragm of a sprinkler valve and I got this.
Posted Image
This picture reflects my influence from Dr. Nerf's semi-auto valve.

Valve at rest
Posted Image

Valve open
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Valve sealed off
Posted Image

More details later...

EDIT: just realized that the valve still vents air even when it's "sealed off."

Edited by Shadow 92, 20 September 2007 - 07:05 PM.

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#39 Shadow 92

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Posted 22 September 2007 - 02:57 PM

Here it is redesigned:
This is the valve at rest. The spring holds the piston back keeping it sealed. The piston is now composed of a threaded rod with rubber fender washers, steel fender washers, and some nuts. This will allow the piston to be adjusted to match the desired trigger pull.
Posted Image
Valve opened.
Due to the speed of the sprinkler valve's opening time, the pilot valve should only have to remain open for a short amount of time (as demonstrated in the picture below).
Posted Image
Valve closed/ sealed off
After the valve is opened, it is immediately sealed off when the trigger is pulled a certain length. This allows the sprinkler valve to be opened and closed at a predetermined time, creating a semi automatic valve.
Posted Image
Valve in full auto position
If the sprinkler valve and pilot valve are connected to a homemade with components similar to a Magstrike or Rapid Fire 20, then the valve can be used for fully automatic firing. By fully depressing the trigger, the pilot valve remains open, allowing a constant supply of air flow. If the pilot and solenoid valve is connected to a regular airtank, then this mode can be used to dump the entire supply of air.
Posted Image
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#40 Shadow 92

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Posted 10 October 2007 - 06:51 PM

I found some valves used on pneumatic spudguns. It uses a piston and a pressure difference to fire allowing for faster opening times than a the valves seen in most nerf guns and has a higher flow rate than QEV's and modified sprinkler valves.

Piston Valves

These valves can easily be converted for use with nerf applications with amazing results. In fact, I'm guessing that a design such as the one below has enough power to act as a cannon for multiple Mongo Stefans and be around the same size as a Big SNAP.

Posted Image
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#41 NerfRifleman

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Posted 06 December 2007 - 09:18 PM

heres my design for a trigger, simmilar to Bolt's SCAR trigger only i replaced the Music Wire with a trigger sear similar to ones found in real firearms.
Posted Image
Questions?
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#42 Carbon

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Posted 06 December 2007 - 10:16 PM

heres my design for a trigger, simmilar to Bolt's SCAR trigger only i replaced the Music Wire with a trigger sear similar to ones found in real firearms.
Posted Image
Questions?

Your image link needs to be edited in order to be viewed.

The pivoting action of that trigger may cause you problems. I know your graphic isn't to size, but it runs into this problem: trigger at full extension, and the plunger can't clear.
Posted Image

The range of motion next to a pivot point is very small when compared to the end of the lever. You'd be better off moving the restraining point to the middle or closer to the end of the lever.
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#43 Guest_DarkInfection_*

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Posted 06 December 2007 - 11:00 PM

I found some valves used on pneumatic spudguns. It uses a piston and a pressure difference to fire allowing for faster opening times than a the valves seen in most nerf guns and has a higher flow rate than QEV's and modified sprinkler valves.

The flow difference wouldn't be too big, at least not noticeable if you are making the valve a reasonable size. Besides, a piston valve (as big as the ones on spud guns) that shot any nerf dart (even mongo stefans) would basically be able to kill any kind of small animal, not to mention bruise someone very badly at close range. And just in case you were thinking that this could be a long range blaster, think again. If you were to try and aim with it, you might just end up with a black-eye from the kickback. -----> http://media.putfile.com/mauler3 <--------That guy IS shooting golf balls, but still, I just don't think that that kind of valve is appropriate for shooting nerf darts.

Spudguns are Spudguns. Not nerfguns.
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#44 jwasko

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Posted 06 December 2007 - 11:37 PM

Spudguns are Spudguns. Not nerfguns.


Except...I'm pretty sure...that the Hornet, Blastfire, Big Salvo, SMDTG, and Triple Strike (I think that name's right) use a similar valve. Of course, the air chambers and pressure are much lower than in the spudguns.

And, now that I've spent the last few hours browsing Spudfiles, I have a heap of new project ideas and less time to study for finals...thanks a lot, internet!

Edited by jwasko, 06 December 2007 - 11:39 PM.

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#45 NerfRifleman

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Posted 07 December 2007 - 12:12 AM

The pivoting action of that trigger may cause you problems. I know your graphic isn't to size, but it runs into this problem: trigger at full extension, and the plunger can't clear.


The range of motion next to a pivot point is very small when compared to the end of the lever. You'd be better off moving the restraining point to the middle or closer to the end of the lever.


Ahhhhh......thank you carbon...now i see what you are talking about, i didnt understand for a sec.
here i think this should help.

Posted Image
Better???
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#46 Guest_DarkInfection_*

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Posted 07 December 2007 - 06:16 PM

Spudguns are Spudguns. Not nerfguns.


Except...I'm pretty sure...that the Hornet, Blastfire, Big Salvo, SMDTG, and Triple Strike (I think that name's right) use a similar valve. Of course, the air chambers and pressure are much lower than in the spudguns.


Well, thats kind of what I was getting at. The valves are the same, but the chamber sizes are vastly different.
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#47 Shadow 92

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Posted 11 December 2007 - 06:59 PM

These valves can easily be converted for use with nerf applications with amazing results. In fact, I'm guessing that a design such as the one below has enough power to act as a cannon for multiple Mongo Stefans and be around the same size as a Big SNAP.

I designed it mostly as a proof of concept sort of thing. The goal was a blaster that was both relatively compact and powerful.

Heres what I'm designing now. I know its not nerf, but designing a semi auto paintball-type gun is a lot easier than designing a new semi auto nerf gun. Its works off a two way valve that uses air pressure to move a bolt and fire a ball. The general design is based on the Smart Parts Ion with some changes to make it fire at a lower pressure. The trade off is that the bolt will only be able to move around five times a second compared to fifteen. The numbers aren't real, just rough guesses.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Edited by Shadow 92, 11 December 2007 - 08:16 PM.

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#48 CaptainSlug

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Posted 15 January 2008 - 07:49 PM

Catchplate trigger mechanism design lifted from the original Crossbow and used in the +bow.
Posted Image
Posted Image

The beveled edge on the trigger interacts with the beveled edge of the catchplate forcing the catchplate upwards to compress the return spring. The catchplate disengages the notch in the plunger rod and thus fires the dart.
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#49 keef

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Posted 19 January 2008 - 11:46 AM

I'm trying to add a trigger to my solenoid. I have a Toggle switch on them. If the valve was a manual screw type bleed, how would I connect the toggle switch to the solenoid?

Posted Image
I'm using that switch w/ wires already on it.

Posted Image
This is the exact valve I'm using too.

Thanks,
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#50 Prometheus

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Posted 19 January 2008 - 12:07 PM

Anywhere between the solenoid and power source.
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