294 replies to this topic

[THIRST]

Im not quite sure how the valve works, but Im trying to egt around me having to open the valve while pumping. Is it a one way valve, and when you open it, it becomes 2 way? Because thats what comes to mind. Im probobally wrong, but Im really tired, I got next to no sleep last night, Im not thinking straight. Lame excuses, I know.

THIRST

[texmustache]

It's a one way valve. The way you have it, you have to keep it open while pumping. The way i have it, the pump is connected to the bladder, so you don't need to. Another problem is it only holds pressure one way, so you have to have it directly connected to the airtank, and not the air bladder. Did you miss the picture?
http://www.freewebs....he/assembly.jpg
copy and paste.

I'm not sure how the other RF20 valve works, but i think it's a slow release, and doesn't hold any air.

Okay, i need to see a picture.

Edited by texmustache, 27 August 2004 - 01:26 PM.

[THIRST]

Im thinkign use the regular rf20 bladder mech with the white plastic peice and clamps, keep that connected with one of the trigger mech's, and have the other vinal tubing lead to the pump. Yeah, that would work. Lemme see if I can show you.

Edit: Alright, its not how its gonna eb setup, its just in that position so we can see how its setup with the parts and all.


THIRST

Edited by THIRST, 27 August 2004 - 01:34 PM.

[texmustache]

That'll work. Although the valve needs better placement, but that'll happen in the final version i assume.

Oh, at target they're usually on the ends of the shelves, not on them.

Edited by texmustache, 27 August 2004 - 01:57 PM.

[THIRST]

Yeah, I couldnt put it on the side because then it would conver internals or you couldnt see it. Now all I need are 2k's. I am gonna call target again...

THIRST

[ShortShit]

THIRST

wait but it doesnt seem like it would work the way I see it....

youd pump the gun up which would fill the bladder AND the at2k air chamber.
you would shoot a shot, and the bladder would just continue to fill the at2k airchamber without any regulation wouldnt it? Or is there some sort of one-way mechanism attached to the pump from the bladder so you can still use the RF20 valve to refill your load....

[Crankymonky]

The light blue valve on top, I believe.

[ShortShit]

right, thats what we WANT to use to regulate the air, but if the bladder is ALSO directly connect to the pump and the at2k valve, then as soon as u use a shot more air from the bladder will go out into the at2k valve as soon as you let go of the trigger right? What is stopping the air from going from the bladder to the at2k valve, if air is coming in from the pump to the bladder, i just dont see it...?


EDIT: OOH I see, there is no airflow between the at2k pump and the at2k valve, its clamped shut (i dont think its neccacery to clamp it, i've heard the liquid gauge thing wont leak from the back if nothing is connected) so what you REALLY have is the pump to the bladder, and the bladder to the rf20 regulation valve *seems to me you would still want to pump with the valve OPEN so you fill one one extra shot yes?* which then goes to the at2k valve and should work flawlessly.

Edited by ShortShit, 27 August 2004 - 02:33 PM.

[ompa]

People you really SHOULD use both valves in conjunction. I did it, and it works great. I taped down the little button, and you get SEMI AUTO SHOTS without pressing any little doo-hickeys. I'll post a pic of mine shortly, as I found a quasi-clamp that holds decently.

Short, I think you nailed how it works.

~ompa

Edited by ompa, 27 August 2004 - 02:40 PM.

[Vintage]

Ompa, when you speak of two valves, you mean both the RF20 valves? Or the primary RF20 valve and the AT valve?

~Vintage

[texmustache]

Mines done, nothing special, just a turret. Pictures later tonight.

Specs:

ROF- depends on how fast you reload...fully loaded, 4 shots in 2.5 seconds.

Range- First 2-3 shots 70-80, next 14-16 shots 50-60, next 8-10 shots 30-40. In Feet.

Barrel- 4" 9/16 brass turret.

Pumps- 50-60 for peak performance with Airtech 2k pump, 15-20 for peak performance with RF20 pump

Weight- Actually it's very nicely balanced, as the airtank for mine sits on top.

Accuracy- Although my barrels aren't exactly straight, its accurate for about 30-40 feet.

Feel- Valve placement is on the left side, so you can operate with your thumb. Valve tip is insulated with electrical tape to save your poor thumbs.

Looks- No paint job, but pretty clean. No extra tape, everythings held in place with cable ties, and it's very sturdy.

Edited by texmustache, 27 August 2004 - 02:45 PM.

[ompa]

All of them. It's a giant collection of pretty valves. Here are some pictures- please ignore the hot glue, it's only temporary. And so is the tape. It's just to see if it's functional before I glue everything down.






AHHHH!!USING BOTH VALVES MEANS YOU DON'T NEED TO PRESS THAT LITTLE BUTTON BETWEEN EVERY SHOT!

~ompa

Edited by ompa, 27 August 2004 - 02:45 PM.

[ShortShit]

ompa -also, I dont see how taping the Pin in the rf20 valve can make it semi auto, though I recall it being mentioned that its a slow release valve? So you have it closed, prime the gun and it pressurises everything, you take a shot, and release the trigger, and because the valve is open, over the next couple second air passes from the bladder THROUGH the rf20 valve slowely into the at2k valve untill it is primed, then you shoot/release trigger and it refills slowely again? And this is slow enough where if you held the trigger a little too long you wouldnt lose much pressure yes?

edit: oh wow you uses everything in the rf20 didnt ya!? I dont even know what that other peice connected to the liquid gauge DOES!

Edited by ShortShit, 27 August 2004 - 02:48 PM.

[ompa]

Remember how the RF20 works on semi-auto? Just think of it that way. It works, I'm not sure how, but it does.

~ompa

[texmustache]

The way you have it ompa, i think you could get rid of the main (taped) valve and keep the slow release valve...at least i think that's how it works. If you have the main valve taped down, theres no point in having it. Be back later tonight.

Edited by texmustache, 27 August 2004 - 02:48 PM.

[ShortShit]

The way you have it ompa, i think you could get rid of the main (taped) valve and keep the slow release valve...at least i think that's how it works. If you have the main valve taped down, theres no point in having it. Be back later tonight.

yeah I agree, if whats really refilling the at2k chamber is the slow release valve that you have mounted on the gauge, then there is no need for the pin valve at all, is there? If so whats its function then...

seems you could just have the semiauto/slowleak rf20 valve hooked up from the bladder to itself to the guage and be just dandy.

Edited by ShortShit, 27 August 2004 - 02:53 PM.

[ompa]

I'm not completely sure- What's in the valve might actually be needed... I'm not exactly sure. But as it is, I'm going to watch a movie soon, and I won't have much time to try it out. Plus, I want to test out ranges using this, and I'll try to post results soon. I'll be using 6inch barrels on the turret.

Would someone PLEASE try it without that main valve though? I'm not even sure if I have any tubing left that's long enough to connect the chamber and slow release valve without the other valve in there...

And I have NOTHING hooked up to the gauge. It's plugged. It's all direct to the air chamber.

~ompa

Edited by ompa, 27 August 2004 - 02:56 PM.

[ShortShit]

awesome ompa, im excited to see your results, and everyone elses pics.

If it turns out that just the slow-release valve can be used efficiently, than it seems like most of this could be internal!
You could have the pump hose going to one of the inputs of the bladder, then the other bladder tuber going to the slowe release valve placed inside the gun, then connected to the at2k valve correctly all inside the gun, the only way you would even know it was different was the giant bladder sticking out of it Least thats how I plan on doing it...

Edited by ShortShit, 27 August 2004 - 03:00 PM.

[Vintage]

Ompa, trust me, you don't need that main valve. Here is an explanation of both of the valves:

Primary valve:
Open position - lets air rush through.
Closed position - prevents air flow

Seconday valve (full/semi selector on the RF20):
Open position - lets air rush through
Closed position - lets air creep through

You don't need that main valve. Your design is the same as Thirst's. You both use restricted areas to prevent the air to flow out of the bladder too fast (Thirst uses the liquitron gauge, you use the RF20 restrictor valve).

~Vintage

[ompa]

Alright, so I just need to find some tubing to re-route it... By the way- off of 30 pumps, you get decent power and 4 shots, which works great for my turret. No barrel yet though, just shooting air at myself.

~ompa

[ShortShit]

I have a good design, uploading pic now...


Pump to the bladder
Bladder to the slow-release valve
Slow-release valve to the at2k valve.

All internal and lovely, yes?

Edited by ShortShit, 27 August 2004 - 03:20 PM.

[ompa]

Valve won't fit- I've tried, trust me. Unless you miniturize the tubing and tubing screws, it ain't gonna fit.

~ompa

[ShortShit]

your saying that the tubin and tubing screws coming off of the valve are to big to fit on the fixture of the at2k valve? thats easy, get smaller tubing and just use the at2ks tubing screws eh?

[ompa]

can't, it's different sizes. It's not the tube that's really the problem as is how big the tubing nipple itself is. You can just chop off the liquitron gauge and put it in that space, 2 pieces of tubing glued to the outside isn't too bad...

Well, I'll try and see if I can cram it in tonight- it just MIGHT be possible. Doubtful, but I'll try anyways. Just for you shit.

~ompa

Edited by ompa, 27 August 2004 - 03:31 PM.

[ShortShit]

ok gotcha, thanks buddy! , I look forward to seeing your results.

Edited by ShortShit, 27 August 2004 - 03:32 PM.