- The Great Noob Influx
- OMC being promoted to Admin
- CaptainSlug and Forsaken_angel24 promoted to contributors
- The flow of new ideas and creations in the homemades and mods categories
- The release of the Recon
- Talio's brief return
- Some great new members joining the site
SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA's Content
There have been 1000 items by SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA (Search limited from 15-January 97)
#132894 '07 Highlights
Posted by
on 17 December 2007 - 11:51 PM
in
General Nerf
Well, the end of '07 is nearing. Since we did this last year, and in this forum, I figured we ought to continue it. List the best and worst points of the year, the ones that we all remember.
#159421 "nitefinder Rifle"
Posted by
on 16 June 2008 - 07:43 PM
in
Modifications
You could always replace the plunger rods with a threaded rod or a steel/aluminum solid-core pipe if you're not sure. However, marine strength epoxy, JB Weld, Plumber's Goop, plastic cements (or plastic welds), and Fishin' Glue are all very likely to hold. If you want to reinforce the hold, try bonding some strips of aluminum flashing onto the sides of the plunger rods where they are joined (I.e. take a small strip of flashing and glue it down so that it is glued to one plunger rod, extends across the joint where the two rods meet, and then is bonded to the other rod on the opposite side as well). That gives you a lot more adhered surface and strength. The plunger tube itself is of the same plastic, but I can't help with the PETG ones.
#120616 "silenced" Longshot
Posted by
on 21 August 2007 - 10:01 AM
in
Modifications
Common sense dictates that if you are going to post about some kind of revolutionary new device or modifications, you'd better do it when you have substantial proof. Until then, resist the urge to invite yourself to be called a bullshitter. It makes this much easier on all of us.Maybe you should all not be dicks and give him the benefit of the doubt for a day or two and a chance to pony up, eh?
#120693 "silenced" Longshot
Posted by
on 21 August 2007 - 09:37 PM
in
Modifications
He meant on spring guns. The noise comes from the plunger head's impact with the end of the plunger tube, not from air escaping the barrel.Actually, I believe Forsakenangel24 made a working barrel silencer for his Titan. I will update this post with a link later.
privateer: Way to be an ass. I was giving you advice that is going to help you, should you take the time to read it.
#99422 10% Off At Hasbrotoyshop
Posted by
on 06 February 2007 - 09:39 PM
in
General Nerf
I would have posted something like this, but I was unsure if the code was different for each box. I only kept one of the pamphlets that came with the guns I have. I guess part of the thanks goes to navy seal for this topic, and the other part to Hasbro for being too lazy to change codes.
#102384 2006 Nerf Review
Posted by
on 17 April 2007 - 09:06 PM
in
General Nerf
Forsaken Angel's innovative and groundbreaking Longshot Breach, which can no doubt be applied to other guns as well.
Nice try, but that was this year.
#102363 2006 Nerf Review
Posted by
on 17 April 2007 - 04:32 PM
in
General Nerf
What about:
-Sponge's nerf howitzers
-The return of Talio
-The increase in noobs flooding the site
-A nice blue skin for the site (instead of the MY EYES ARE BURNING white)
-Shinny's welcoming messages:
Others still to come...
-Sponge's nerf howitzers
-The return of Talio
-The increase in noobs flooding the site
-A nice blue skin for the site (instead of the MY EYES ARE BURNING white)
-Shinny's welcoming messages:
-Forsaken_Angel24's pump-action shotgun modMore Code of Conduct links
More 9999 specials
Less n00bs
A cleaner experience at the Haven
Others still to come...
#110187 24 Dart Clip For Ls?
Posted by
on 09 June 2007 - 12:00 AM
in
General Nerf
Why? We don't put high-power springs in anything except plunger tubes.Also, for a 24 shot clip, you would need to reinforce the hell out of it. It doesn't seem too practical.
On the other hand, the closest to a 24-round MAGAZINE (please, stop saying "clips") would be taking two 12-round mags and doing this, although it would still be relatively bulky. It's the closest solution that you're going to get, and probably the most effective besides dropping the idea.
#118001 7-barrelled Shotgun
Posted by
on 02 August 2007 - 11:06 AM
in
Off Topic
This would be the Nock gun from GUN, based on Nock's Volley Gun, a real seven-barreled shotgun developed by James Wilson in 1779. This is it, correct?
#118122 7-barrelled Shotgun
Posted by
on 03 August 2007 - 12:35 AM
in
Off Topic
That is the real Nock's Volley gun. Just search Google Images for "Nock Gun" and it will be one of the first ones there. I tried to find one from the video game model, but I gave up after the first few pages.
#130460 A Good Coupler
Posted by
on 23 November 2007 - 03:55 PM
in
Modifications
Sand out the inside of the coupler SLIGHTLY with either a rolled-up piece of sandpaper or a Dremel. You do not want to remove a lot of material, or the barrel might fly off when you shoot the gun.
From the description you gave, it sounds like the barrels were 1/2" CPVC nested in 1/2" PVC or something of the sort. I have no idea why you would need to nest barrels like that unless the coupler he used was 1/2" PVC. Usually you only nest if the actual barrel (the one nested in the second material) has no coupler, and must be attached to the gun using the coupler of the larger material.
For an easier to reload coupler mod, try a speedloader. Basically, take two barrels and tape them together, pointed in opposite directions and with about 1"+ of the loading end (the one to be shoved in the coupler) hanging over the edge of the other barrel. Search for speedloader and you should find something.
From the description you gave, it sounds like the barrels were 1/2" CPVC nested in 1/2" PVC or something of the sort. I have no idea why you would need to nest barrels like that unless the coupler he used was 1/2" PVC. Usually you only nest if the actual barrel (the one nested in the second material) has no coupler, and must be attached to the gun using the coupler of the larger material.
For an easier to reload coupler mod, try a speedloader. Basically, take two barrels and tape them together, pointed in opposite directions and with about 1"+ of the loading end (the one to be shoved in the coupler) hanging over the edge of the other barrel. Search for speedloader and you should find something.
#102546 A Little Algebra Anyone?
Posted by
on 23 April 2007 - 09:40 PM
in
Off Topic
Wow, that is the oldest and stupidest joke ever. That got old like 5 years ago, bud.
Believe me, shit travels SLOW in Delaware. Anyway, congrats to DS for having the only contributive and useful post in the thread so far.
#102527 A Little Algebra Anyone?
Posted by
on 22 April 2007 - 09:13 PM
in
Off Topic
Back on topic:
I used to get problems like this in my geometry / statistics class, but since that was last block I am kind of rusty on this material. Glad someone was able to post a thorough walkthrough of the problem.
I used to get problems like this in my geometry / statistics class, but since that was last block I am kind of rusty on this material. Glad someone was able to post a thorough walkthrough of the problem.
#107488 A Pump Action Snap
Posted by
on 24 May 2007 - 10:05 PM
in
Homemades
Go ahead. The second pic is a little blurry, but the breach looks good so far.
#107494 A Pump Action Snap
Posted by
on 24 May 2007 - 10:21 PM
in
Homemades
Be careful. One of those springs destroyed ny NF (blew the plunger tube and barrel, which were epoxied into the shell, out of the gun. I need to get better epoxy). I would also recommend using steel or carbon rod for the catch, or something even more resiliant to stand up to the spring(s). Lastly, if you are using the same Handyman springs I did, then I would suggest not attaching the grip to the PETG, but to some stronger part with more compression strength, just as a precaution.
P.S.: A deodorant clip would go nicely with that breech. Also, you need longer PVC to cover the open breach in the PETG, unless you want to vent so much pressure that early.
P.S.: A deodorant clip would go nicely with that breech. Also, you need longer PVC to cover the open breach in the PETG, unless you want to vent so much pressure that early.
#114252 A Really Fucking Old Nerf Gun
Posted by
on 03 July 2007 - 12:28 AM
in
General Nerf
Here. There's always someone willing to buy it, and most of us are trustworthy.LastManAlive
I have a pulsator, where do you think i could sell it?
#120210 A Singled Maverick Like No Other.
Posted by
on 17 August 2007 - 11:18 PM
in
Modifications
I think you mean "dedicate," not "dictate." Either way, it's not bad. You should try using Lexan sheets (available at Home Depot, somewhere near the PEX tubing, I recall) instead of wood.
I assume the keyring on the back is there because the slide rod or the slide rod's catch broke?
I assume the keyring on the back is there because the slide rod or the slide rod's catch broke?
#126258 A Suggestion.
Posted by
on 14 October 2007 - 11:12 PM
in
Site Feedback
If the majority (or at least a noticeable portion) of the war threads pertained to HvZ and assassin games, then subcategories would be a viable course of action. However, they aren't (for now). Besides, if we did this, what's to draw the line? We would have to design subcategories in homemades for air-powered guns, motorized guns, springers, combustion cannons, etc. and the same with modifications. It seems to be too much work for too little gain. Wars are wars, although each type of war deserves to be properly recognized for what it is. Now, that means a thread dedicated to explaining what HvZ and assassins are all about, but not necessarily a forum or subcategory entirely for one gametype/game. I hope you see the reasoning to this.
#126530 A Suggestion.
Posted by
on 17 October 2007 - 10:30 PM
in
Site Feedback
But that's basically just another Wars forum. I think the idea presented here is to have one forum for regular wars and another for simulations and RPGs, which is not bad. However, do we need it? That's up to the founders. FA brought up some good points, but is that really what we're (mostly) about?
#120372 Abbb With Arrows And Clip?
Posted by
on 19 August 2007 - 02:35 AM
in
Modifications
That's a coupler mod, not a breach.
If you want to do this, then you will have to fire the arrow when the magazine is empty (I.e.: before you load it or after you fire all the darts). Otherwise, the loaded dart will be closed in the breach when the weapon is cocked, because that's how an ABBB breach works. That would mean that the dart would push out the arrow, which would be a pointless waste. Also, if you were to do this on an ABBB, then the air pressure would drop before it hits the arrow because of the long barrel.
If you want to do this, then you will have to fire the arrow when the magazine is empty (I.e.: before you load it or after you fire all the darts). Otherwise, the loaded dart will be closed in the breach when the weapon is cocked, because that's how an ABBB breach works. That would mean that the dart would push out the arrow, which would be a pointless waste. Also, if you were to do this on an ABBB, then the air pressure would drop before it hits the arrow because of the long barrel.
#125088 Abp5k
Posted by
on 04 October 2007 - 09:20 PM
in
Homemades
Isn't the overall length a bit much for a pistol? Perhaps "carbine" is a more appropriate term, because an unfolded 28" is the same length as bolt's SCAR-N.
Other than that, the progress thus far is astounding. I really wish I had that kind of work ethic, as my own gun is nearing a year in development hell.
Other than that, the progress thus far is astounding. I really wish I had that kind of work ethic, as my own gun is nearing a year in development hell.
#125102 Abp5k
Posted by
on 04 October 2007 - 10:11 PM
in
Homemades
I almost drooled on my keyboard just now. How easily does the magazine slip out of the well? About the same resistance as in a standard LS?
#125341 Abp5k
Posted by
on 07 October 2007 - 05:55 PM
in
Homemades
I really wish I had the tools and machines available to make my work that clean and precise. Out of curiosity, what was the secondary lock? I only recall there being one notch in the LS magazine, so was it a different system altogether?
#99920 Accuracy And Lasers
Posted by
on 16 February 2007 - 05:29 PM
in
General Nerf
-What can a Nerf gun's accuracy go up to?
-Are lasers useful in most cases?
-What is the accuracy of your guns?
-What weights should I use if I want to shoot accurately long distances?
In most cases, lasers are not useful because they do not compensate for the fact that darts have trajectories and do not fly straight.
The weights in the darts are dependant upon the power of the gun and mass of the dart.
A gun's accuracy greatly depends upon the distance of the target, because factors such as gravity and wind can affect the outcome.
#100020 Accuracy And Lasers
Posted by
on 18 February 2007 - 09:08 PM
in
General Nerf
For target practice, lasers are fine, since there is a low risk for any possible eye damage (unless you're shooting at a mirror or a sibling). However, I prefer to practice without a laser because it forces you to take into account the distance and fall of the dart, and therefore learn the capacities of your weapons. Plus, accurate shots need to be able to be placed effectively without aid, at least in my understanding of practice.
#99963 Accuracy And Lasers
Posted by
on 17 February 2007 - 09:11 PM
in
General Nerf
I would like to point out to anyone who is using lasers that placing the laser beneath the barrel and not angling it upwards is the most accurate way to use a laser sight, since the lower position of the laser will help compensate for some of the fall of the dart during flight. I still don't recommend lasers, though.
#99991 Accuracy And Lasers
Posted by
on 18 February 2007 - 03:16 PM
in
General Nerf
Everybody I know uses very good eye protection, shop goggles, ski goggles, sunglasses, that kind of think, which is why it is OK with us to use lasers.
Perhaps you didn't realize, but those types of eye protection won't reflect or absorb laser light.
#100067 Accuracy And Lasers
Posted by
on 19 February 2007 - 02:25 PM
in
General Nerf
Nothing. I do it too. Just don't point the laser in his/her eyes.What's wrong with shooting at siblings?
#99986 Accuracy And Lasers
Posted by
on 18 February 2007 - 03:00 PM
in
General Nerf
You can try to avoid those situations, but accidents do happen. We would rather not see or hear about one of those accidents, which is why we discourage the use of lasers.Shadow, you made a good point, however, if everyone is smart and follows the rule of eye protection, we can avoid those icky situations.
#100018 Air Tech 3000 In A Ls
Posted by
on 18 February 2007 - 09:02 PM
in
Modifications
It's a shame to have scrapped the magazine system (as far as I can tell, since the white tank blocks the magazine well). Anyways, nice modification.
#120564 Airtech 2000 Unique Barrel Repalcement Mod
Posted by
on 20 August 2007 - 06:00 PM
in
Modifications
Your barrel is angled upwards, and you should push the dart to the very back of the barrel with a chopstick or other ramrod, but other than that, this is a very good, creative mod. Plus, it means there is one less annoying instrument in the world. Great job. Oh, and for the videos, you should look into a tripod for the camcorder so you can support it at any angle and show the work with both of your hands.
P.S.: You may want to clean up the post for grammar and get rid of the chatroom lingo to make the writeup easier to read.
P.S.: You may want to clean up the post for grammar and get rid of the chatroom lingo to make the writeup easier to read.
#131276 Airtech Trouble Shoot
Posted by
on 02 December 2007 - 05:42 PM
in
Modifications
What springy things?So, wait...the springy things do nothing?
Here are some links on rebarreling your ATs (selected from the directory):
http://nerfhaven.com...?showtopic=9368
http://nerfhaven.com...?showtopic=9368
http://nerfhaven.com...745&hl=write up
Basically, chop it at that seam that Hasbro conveniently provided. If you have to, take a Dremel (a file or sandpaper will work, but you will be there for hours) and shave out the stubs in small increments. Check the barrel fit constantly, because it is much easier to work with if the fit is nice and tight. Glue 9/16" brass or PETG in or on the stubs, and use the faceplate to align the barrels correctly.
In your case, with no Dremel, take a smaller material like 17/32 or 1/2 brass and stick it in the stubs. Nest your actual barrels over that. This ensures air delivery and barrel fit.
#131259 Airtech Trouble Shoot
Posted by
on 02 December 2007 - 03:53 PM
in
Modifications
This is what happens:
The OPRV is the hole in the center of the pump head. When pressures in the tank begin to reach a level Hasbro deemed to be "too high," the valve is forced open by that pressure to maintain a safe level. With that plugged, air can be pumped into the tank indefinitely (until the tank, the line, or the plug blows).
The two slots, which are opposite but parallel to each other, are on the edge of the pump head. When the pump goes forward, the O-ring is forced into the back of its groove by friction, which creates a seal. Then the pump is pulled out, that same friction causes the O-ring to be moved to the front of its groove. This uncovers a hole in the back that allows air to travel under the O-ring and through the twin slots into the pump chamber. That's why it's important to keep them free of glue or other blocking agents.
That's the science behind it, if anyone was wondering. This is why it is alright for the glue to get on the pump head, but not over the sides. One, it blocks those slots. Two, it may glue the O-ring in place.
Some extra advice: If you are alright at splicing and replacing tubing, I recommend getting some vinyl tubing from Lowe's or Home Depot and completely re-tubing the gun. I do this to all of my air guns (where the tank is not directly attached to the pump by plastic shells) to get rid of those wires inside the stock tubes on gund like the SMDTG and Titan. These make the tubes rigid, and are annoying as hell if you need to move the tubes around for a mod. Just make sure to seal everything up with some Goop before firing. Also, those wires are curled into springs that can be used to reinforce catches, depending on the gun.
The OPRV is the hole in the center of the pump head. When pressures in the tank begin to reach a level Hasbro deemed to be "too high," the valve is forced open by that pressure to maintain a safe level. With that plugged, air can be pumped into the tank indefinitely (until the tank, the line, or the plug blows).
The two slots, which are opposite but parallel to each other, are on the edge of the pump head. When the pump goes forward, the O-ring is forced into the back of its groove by friction, which creates a seal. Then the pump is pulled out, that same friction causes the O-ring to be moved to the front of its groove. This uncovers a hole in the back that allows air to travel under the O-ring and through the twin slots into the pump chamber. That's why it's important to keep them free of glue or other blocking agents.
That's the science behind it, if anyone was wondering. This is why it is alright for the glue to get on the pump head, but not over the sides. One, it blocks those slots. Two, it may glue the O-ring in place.
Some extra advice: If you are alright at splicing and replacing tubing, I recommend getting some vinyl tubing from Lowe's or Home Depot and completely re-tubing the gun. I do this to all of my air guns (where the tank is not directly attached to the pump by plastic shells) to get rid of those wires inside the stock tubes on gund like the SMDTG and Titan. These make the tubes rigid, and are annoying as hell if you need to move the tubes around for a mod. Just make sure to seal everything up with some Goop before firing. Also, those wires are curled into springs that can be used to reinforce catches, depending on the gun.
#153575 Airtight Sealness...
Posted by
on 27 April 2008 - 10:19 PM
in
Modifications
If by sledgehammer you mean banhammer, then wait and watch. Spyder, you have to be at least 13 years old to be on these boards.I would rather hit him over the head with a sledgehammer then give his dead body to micheal jackson.
#129230 All Aluminum Paintball (and Nerf) Bolt-action Rifle
Posted by
on 09 November 2007 - 04:10 PM
in
Homemades
The king has returned! That thing is in-fucking-sane. For a second, I thought this was a necroed thread, then I saw the title and the reply count and thought it couldn't be true. I almost ruined a $55 pair of pants when I saw that gun, though. Keep it up, man.
#114636 Am I Allowed To Post This?
Posted by
on 05 July 2007 - 10:01 PM
in
Off Topic
I want to post a trade for a non nerf item? Am I allowed to do so? If I am admins please tell me where to put it. Thank you.
~McFlurry
No.Is it still a foam shooter?
You should be able to post this, but I would try to stay away from the Trading category for now.
#93285 Ammo Case
Posted by
on 29 October 2006 - 06:07 PM
in
Homemades
Damn, that's cheap. I may have to take you up on that offer. I have a feeling I'll need to be making assloads of stefans soon, and this is going to help me a lot. I may also be making deals with you in the future. PM me about how you intend to sell me these things.
#93369 Ammo Case
Posted by
on 30 October 2006 - 04:49 PM
in
Homemades
philadel. Elite:
If you used a height-adjustable base like I described, then your idea would be perfect for all different lengths of stefans or stock darts. However, if you are using / making the same size darts that are in Forsaken Angel's pics, then the ammo case would be much easier, simpler, and cheaper. Your idea is probably best if you need to manufacture / store multiple sizes that won't all fit in an ammo holder.
If you used a height-adjustable base like I described, then your idea would be perfect for all different lengths of stefans or stock darts. However, if you are using / making the same size darts that are in Forsaken Angel's pics, then the ammo case would be much easier, simpler, and cheaper. Your idea is probably best if you need to manufacture / store multiple sizes that won't all fit in an ammo holder.
#93250 Ammo Case
Posted by
on 29 October 2006 - 01:12 PM
in
Homemades
You would have to secure the PVC at the base to prevent them from falling out. If you tape them, the tape only holds the outermost pieces together. Also, it might be more sturdy if you stagger the pipes, similar to the design you find on the #5 sides of dice. A height-adjustable base would also be useful, because it would allow for the manfacture of multiple sizes of stefans. However, the idea by itself is still useful for someone who needs to produce assloads of darts at a time. (My recommendation to people who want to try this idea or the ammo holders, make sure at least 1/2 inch of the dart is sticking out of the top of the hole so if you miss with the glue gun, you don't f*ck anything up trying to get the glue off the sides pf the pipe/hole.)
#119213 An Electrical Question
Posted by
on 12 August 2007 - 01:20 AM
in
Homemades
Why is this in Homemades?
1: If it was built for batteries, especially low-voltage small ones, then you really don't want to plug it into an outlet. Bad things ensue.
2: It won't work. The device is using the four 1.5 volt AA batteries to make six volts (if it's hooked up in series. Parallel circuits combine the current of all power sources, while series circuits combine the voltage).
1: If it was built for batteries, especially low-voltage small ones, then you really don't want to plug it into an outlet. Bad things ensue.
2: It won't work. The device is using the four 1.5 volt AA batteries to make six volts (if it's hooked up in series. Parallel circuits combine the current of all power sources, while series circuits combine the voltage).
