SorrowX's Content

#167535 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by SorrowX on 09 August 2008 - 01:24 AM in Modifications

Everybody, this is Forbidden Valley, My pride and joy. she was my first longshot, bought when it first came out, and I spent many months of research, planning and work into her, as she is my primary of choice. And yes, Those are dart holders and a bayonet. she get excess of 120 feet flat with taggers(yes, thats right, tagger darts) and i can even use the stock scope and it will work fine with its amount of accuracy.
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#300780 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by SorrowX on 29 June 2011 - 09:27 PM in Homemades

Behold! The Mighty Hydra!

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and yes, it indexes, of course ^.^

#200263 Nerfhaven Modification Directory

Posted by SorrowX on 01 January 2009 - 04:45 PM in Modifications

Could I get the Humming Bird into the Mod directory? It should go under Tommy 20.

EDIT: fuck, I didn't read, Damn it...

#246598 Raider Cs-35: Overview / Overhaul

Posted by SorrowX on 11 August 2009 - 04:49 PM in Modifications

For anyone who wants to know how slam fire works yet doesn't have a mechanical mind-state, I may be able to help. (This is not speculation, I own a Raider)

First off, study and memorize this picture. (picture of internals courtesy of SPV999)
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For slam fire, the trigger would be depressed, pushing the nub on part 1 of catch system part way up(Part one of catch system will be from now on referred to as 'P1'). As the user primes the blaster, the forward nub on the boltsled presses down and locks the top-side triangular piece depressed as the plunger tube catches on P2( part 2 of the catch system). So now, the bolt sled is pulled back, the plunger tube is caught, the trigger is being pressed, and P1 nub is partway up. As the user closes the breech, the rearward nub (in the picture, the nub on the boltsled that is touching P1) catches and pulls forward P1, pushing the P1 nub fully up, pressing on P2 and firing the blaster.

Hope this clears up the slam fire speculation! :lol:

EDIT
To make it so you can deprime it even when the boltsled it pulled back, you have to get rid of the slam fire. You have to glue P1 forward with some hotglue, so that P1 is stationary, in the forward position.

#254766 Nerf N-strike Longstrike Cs-6 - Preview!

Posted by SorrowX on 27 October 2009 - 11:54 PM in General Nerf

When this comes out, whats going to be it's main abbreviation? Longshot should stay LS, and the longstrike should be something else... I vote for NALS, or Not A Long Shot. Anyways, I agree fully with Fome, I don't care if its reverse plunger, it looks like its meant for some man hands. I'll just end up throwing a titan tank in it and integrating a SSPB anyways.

#203422 Armageddon X

Posted by SorrowX on 14 January 2009 - 09:10 PM in Nerf Wars

me and the BP-F crew should be coming up there too, along with some guests.

#220062 New Buzz Bee Double Shot Mod

Posted by SorrowX on 26 March 2009 - 09:35 PM in Modifications

Ok, this double shot write up makes it that way you can take full advantage of the selectable firing power of the doubleshot plunger and have it as a waist side-arm.

Materials and tools needed:
BuzzBee Double Shot
screwdriver
keyring
strong carabiner
hobby knife or dremel

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After this, throw some Velcro on the side of the gun and on your shorts or pants, and there you go, a waist doubleshot.

#248072 Raider Overhaul Write-up

Posted by SorrowX on 22 August 2009 - 12:47 AM in Modifications

I'll post this little thingie I explained in the other Raider thread, just in case anyone happened to miss it.

For anyone who wants to know how slam fire works yet doesn't have a mechanical mind-state, I may be able to help. (This is not speculation, I own a Raider)

First off, study and memorize this picture. (picture of internals courtesy of SPV999)

For slam fire, the trigger would be depressed, pushing the nub on part 1 of catch system part way up(Part one of catch system will be from now on referred to as 'P1'). As the user primes the blaster, the forward nub on the boltsled presses down and locks the top-side triangular piece depressed as the plunger tube catches on P2( part 2 of the catch system). So now, the bolt sled is pulled back, the plunger tube is caught, the trigger is being pressed, and P1 nub is partway up. As the user closes the breech, the rearward nub (in the picture, the nub on the boltsled that is touching P1) catches and pulls forward P1, pushing the P1 nub fully up, pressing on P2 and firing the blaster.

Hope this clears up the slam fire speculation!

EDIT
To make it so you can deprime it even when the boltsled it pulled back, you have to get rid of the slam fire. You have to glue P1 forward with some hotglue, so that P1 is stationary, in the forward position.

Also, only 40? mine's hitting 60 flat, and I haven't even installed the breech yet. :ph34r:

#248129 Raider Overhaul Write-up

Posted by SorrowX on 22 August 2009 - 02:11 PM in Modifications

Also, only 40? mine's hitting 60 flat, and I haven't even installed the breech yet.
With stock streamlines, some wind, and un-accounted for dart skip, sure. I didn't post the ranges at which I picked up my darts, which were all about 50 to 70 feet away.

I'll post all the factors that contributed to it's range:
-Single BB 2.5 inch stefans, very dense foam (I have to push them into the bolt manually, the dart tooth does nothing)
-Seal improvement with new O-rings
-Recon spring replacement
-foam padding on plunger and back of plunger tube
-Spring addition (Not a [k26] spring, just a stretched stock spring. I didn't even need to drill out the stock)
- Hot glued a Red Seal to the top of it (Ask RedHead)

There was maybe a bit of wind, maybe. As for dart skip, I think the plants I shot into took care of that. Plus, you know how heat increases dart quality, therefore, a bit of a tighter fit.

#248131 Dcit

Posted by SorrowX on 22 August 2009 - 02:32 PM in Homemades

Looks pretty good, reminds me of a Razor Fin, just with a normal trigger instead of the garden hose-esque thing. Now make a removable clip system with the RSCB.

#240780 Titan/magstrike Integration

Posted by SorrowX on 08 July 2009 - 08:23 AM in Modifications

Dude, that is seriously worth a James T. Kirk high five. It definitely reminds me of gundam. Anyways, finish that sucker up!
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(picture courtesy of =jakethesnake= of nerfHQ)

#294643 Rpmbnb! Updated With More Goodies!

Posted by SorrowX on 17 February 2011 - 07:54 PM in Homemades

Well, i talked it over with my teacher, and i'm cleared to sell. i was allowed to make them for free, but i can no longer do that as my teacher is paying for the material out of her own pocket. that means i can't offer them at my projected price of $20 shipped. as it turns out, to make a basic RPMBNB and the average rate of $15 per cubic inch, it would cost around $250 to print them. Ouch. Luckily for everyone interested, my teacher is only charging me $30 per kit, turret or basic/Wye, so i'm thinking of selling the kits for $50 shipped or $30 shipped with a trade that i'm comfortable with, as well as selling individual parts and the price or shipping and teacher's price. Thats 10-15 for shipping, 30 for the teacher, and 5-10 or if its a trade, just 30 for the teacher and i'll pay shipping. I'll even throw in a few goodies every now and again when i feel like it as well as make custom kits and parts to specifications with no extra charge, unless the teacher says otherwise. What do you guys think, sounds fair?

and given incentive, i might also make custom, possibly rearloading magstrike clips that accept a barrel type of buyer's choice, hehe.

#293865 Rpmbnb! Updated With More Goodies!

Posted by SorrowX on 03 February 2011 - 11:01 PM in Homemades

Excellent work, I may just have to ask you for those Inventor files (The handle, trigger, catch, and rear endcap in particular)

I will have the zip file up soon, and it will include ALL of the parts, ready for inventor, solidworks, catalyst, etc.

#293858 Rpmbnb! Updated With More Goodies!

Posted by SorrowX on 03 February 2011 - 10:27 PM in Homemades

Ohh, what kinds of RPMs do your schools have? I should have the files edited and ready by Tuesday at the latest. If you guys decide to make one using my designs, feel free to post the pictures here.

The durability of the printed parts is very good. Nothing feels like its going to snap, and have withstood hours of dry-firing without any padding so far.

#293855 Rpmbnb! Updated With More Goodies!

Posted by SorrowX on 03 February 2011 - 10:14 PM in Homemades

RPM-Built Nerf Blaster

Proving myself and others wrong

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Introduction: Since I started nerfing, the idea of a viable nerf blaster being built by a Rapid Prototype Machine has been put down. I tried before, but never seemed to get the project off the ground. After that, I jumped on the wagon that it couldn’t be done. Recently, a friend of mine managed to push me off of that wagon and get started again. Needless to say, my project was a success. Of course, not everything in the blaster was made using an RPM, but the majority of the hard to manufacture parts are. The only things not made using the RPM are the cylinder, piston rod, and barrel for obvious reasons. In other words, the plunger tube, plunger rod, and barrel still come from elsewhere. I understand the people like boltsniper have made components such as magazine wells for his blasters, but I wanted to take it a step or two above by actually making crucial components from an RPM. Anyways, on to the meaty goodness.

RPM Talk: For this project, I used Autodesk Inventor 2011 and Catalyst to design and process my blaster. The machine used is a Dimension SST768 and the model material is P400 ABS. I used a sodium hydroxide/water solution in a specialized bath set at 70°C to remove the soluble support material as well as to somewhat strengthen the bond of the model material. All of the parts built used a solid material setting for maximum strength and longevity.

Design: The blaster was mainly designed as a proof-of-concept build, so almost anything can be changed design-wise. I designed it to use 1-½ PVC as the plunger tube. The plunger rod is ⅝ round Nylon rod, but that can be easily swapped for square rod with small changes in the design of the catch base, catch and plunger head. I chose to make use of the many tools available at my school, so I used a rounded catch face design and a lathe to carve the catch face itself. This can easily be substituted for a nitefinder-style catch system.

Strength: I have yet to range test it, but that’s not really a big concern for me. My main concern is for how long it will last. So far, the parts has withstood many hours of dry-firing without any padding of any sort, any there is still no sign on any physical damage. I am currently using what my friend tells me is plus-bow spring to power the main mechanism. Half of these springs plus a normal LS spring pushes longshots to around 100’.

Pictures: Well, this part is pretty self-explanatory.

Stripped:
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Printed parts only:
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Grip:

Trigger:

Grip AND Trigger:
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Catch:

Catch inside catch base:
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Piston head:
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Cylinder Head:
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Primed:

Notes: If anyone wants the designs or files, I can send it to them via email, just PM me. You guys are welcome to the knowledge. To be honest, my designs aren’t the greatest, and some do have trouble understanding them. If those who request the files are willing to wait a short while, I can make revisions of my designs that are much clearer and easier for everyone to understand.

Video Is Up!!!

Files are up!!! http://www.mediafire...l99ncxy0e3d0nua

#294607 Rpmbnb! Updated With More Goodies!

Posted by SorrowX on 16 February 2011 - 11:30 PM in Homemades

WooHoo! More printed goodies! Ok, here I have a printed turret assembly(THAT WORKS!), as well as a printed Wye and dart door for the ever popular hopper clip. On another note, i have a vertical foregrip and a crutch stock added for ergonomics.

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I'm also working on a new homemade, a printed N-TS, although its not done yet.
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also, i apologize for the double post.

#294050 Rpmbnb! Updated With More Goodies!

Posted by SorrowX on 07 February 2011 - 01:38 AM in Homemades

my talk

It may have been sodium hydroxide and it may have worked, but in that case you had a base bath. I admit I don't know anything about ABS chemistry in particular.

i got this from following a few links on wikipedia, and it sums up what i have access to:

A "water-soluble" material can be used for making temporary supports while manufacturing is in progress, this soluble support material is quickly dissolved with specialized mechanical agitation equipment utilizing a precisely heated sodium hydroxide solution.

#293870 Rpmbnb! Updated With More Goodies!

Posted by SorrowX on 04 February 2011 - 12:20 AM in Homemades

it depends on the RPM i would assume, but mine feel kind of like those 'holographic' pokemon/baseball cards.

#293971 Rpmbnb! Updated With More Goodies!

Posted by SorrowX on 06 February 2011 - 02:56 AM in Homemades

This is awesome, thanks for providing the files you used. Though I must question your acid bath consisting of Sodium Hydroxide...

If you don't mind, how much did it cost to print?

I'll definitely be looking to make one of this, my friend has access to a 'Stratasys Rapid Prototyper', hopefully we can churn out one of these awesome blasters.

I'm pretty sure it was sodium hydroxide... It was completely free for me, as my school is awesome. and stratasys makes catalyst, so it's almost guaranteed it would work.

#293885 Rpmbnb! Updated With More Goodies!

Posted by SorrowX on 04 February 2011 - 02:15 PM in Homemades

Why did I just watch a video of you talking? I wanted to see the gun shoot. False advertising!

It was in the very beggining.

#257628 Need A Volunteer For The Mod Directory

Posted by SorrowX on 30 November 2009 - 03:12 PM in News

I may seem to be a bit 'young' or noob-like on the forum, but I'm up to it. Plus, I've apparently been suffering from major depression lately, so this will hopefully distract me from it. I have very little to do at home, very few things to mod, and I'm on the site far too often to be healthy. Also, the reason my post count is so low is that despite how often I'm online, I only post in a topic if I have something significant to add to a discussion. I'm also crazy when it comes to organization: Fitting 20 textbooks(4 people) into a locker meant to hold 5.

#257660 Need A Volunteer For The Mod Directory

Posted by SorrowX on 30 November 2009 - 09:53 PM in News

I'm in it regardless of the title.

#325327 Armageddon XIV

Posted by SorrowX on 15 January 2013 - 07:49 AM in Nerf Wars

I'm a maybe. It's been forever since I last nerfed, and I need to build a new longshot.

#255749 Raider With Brass Breech And Integration

Posted by SorrowX on 08 November 2009 - 10:33 PM in Modifications

First off, I'd like to say....SCORE! I got mentioned!.....OK, now that that's out of the way, nice mod. I did a similar breech on my raider, and it works just fine with streamlines, without reduced ROF and its drum mag capable. As soon as I get a working camera, I'll put up some pics and a video so maybe some fine tuning can be done. Also, interesting 2K addition, but I like not having external tubing. Nothing personal against your mod, its just a preference. For a backup, I simply bolted an Eliminator in place of the priming fore-grip. I still get a vertical fore-grip, along with a backup shot!

#286600 Printed Nerf Gun

Posted by SorrowX on 05 October 2010 - 01:45 PM in Homemades

Ah the Rapid prototyper built nerf gun, one of many dreams. Just a tip: don't bother. I have tried and even go to the point of assembly, with lost, and lots of troubles on the way. The RP machine at my school can make anything out of ABS as long as it fits in a 8"x8"x12" area. I used strong materals for things such as the shell, plunger tube, etc. It doesn't work. The way the parts are made make them very weak. the layers of plastic seperate and snap very easily. Its just a waste of money to even attempt this.
I take this ALL back. After all, a $26,000 machine has to be good for something right? I'll have the details up by the end of the week, hopefully.

#275045 The Reconbow

Posted by SorrowX on 17 May 2010 - 02:09 PM in Modifications

Dude, thats sweet. You made a Recon/L+L hybrid. Do prime it like a NF and the actuate the breech, or is the function the same?

#236584 A New Way To Take Away Boltsled Stress!

Posted by SorrowX on 15 June 2009 - 08:58 PM in Modifications

Interesting seeing all these new Longshot mods working on preserving the bolt sled.
What gauge wire is that?

It is a bicycle brake cable. I have no idea what the gauge is that.

This looks very nice, and it sounds amazing. So this would fix my problems of not catching with the plus bow spring?
I like this more then ice's cause it eliminates that extra step and there isn't any wire coming out the back, it also looks very comfy.

A1) Yes, it will solve your problem, unless your problem is related to something else, and not the boltsled.
A2) Yes, it is very comfy. That is the whole point of the rubber tubing and E-Tape. It just molds to your grip.

#236346 A New Way To Take Away Boltsled Stress!

Posted by SorrowX on 14 June 2009 - 10:40 PM in Modifications

Actually it takes the stress off the part of the bolt sled that breaks.
I really like this mod it is convenient because my bolt sled just broke.
Edit all this mod needs is a return spring to bring in bolt.

Or a bungee cable. You can still use your broken boltsled if it only broke at one point. just use the charging handle to close the setup.

#236338 A New Way To Take Away Boltsled Stress!

Posted by SorrowX on 14 June 2009 - 10:11 PM in Modifications

Ok, I'm really upset right now because I had the entire write-up ready to go when my computer decided to be an ultra-douchenozzle. Anyways, onto the write-up.

After acquiring a +Bow spring, I decided it was going to my longshots. I cut 2 portions of the spring into 4 1/2 in. segments and popped them in. I pulled back on the charging handle, when my old rival, the boltsled, snapped. After cursing furiously at now obliterated piece of plastic, I popped another one in its place. this one, much newer, didn't snap on the drawback. Instead, it bent, prohibiting the plunger rod from catching. This is my solution on how to fix that problem.

Tools And Materials Required:
- Longshot
- Drill
- Tin Snips
- Needle-Nosed Pliers
- 2 Gripping Utensils
- Bicycle brake/gear cable
- threaded rod
- 2 nuts
- 2 washers
- E-Tape
- 5/8 rubber hosing(Optional)
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First off, cut the steel brake cable so it is out of the housing and has clean ends.
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Now Remove the bolt pin and drill here on both sides.
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Thread your steel cable through the hole where the bolt pin was formerly located, then feed it through the holes you drilled.
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Cut at your desired length. make sure to leave enough room for it to double over about 1/2 an inch.
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Fold your steel cable with your pliers. It should double over about half an inch. place your washers on, the cable leading the the boltsled on the inside.
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Stick the washers on your threaded rod, throw on your nuts, and Bam! there you go. For the added touch, get your spice-weaseling 5/8 rubber tube and cut it to the length of your threaded rod. Cut it down one side, and place it over the rod. Wrap that sucker in E-Tape, and your all done!
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Your finished product should look a bit like this:
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I also have a video on how it works:
Test Firing
This thing sounds really powerful...

Questions? Comments? Spice weasels? I hope this helps out those folks who don't want anything snapping back at them. Another plus side of this mod is: you don't have to take your longshot apart!

#236343 A New Way To Take Away Boltsled Stress!

Posted by SorrowX on 14 June 2009 - 10:35 PM in Modifications

How is this taking stress of the bolt sled its not like the bolt is in the part that breaks. This is more like a bolt relocation.

If you watch the video, you can see that the boltsled and original charging handle are still in use. the pullback primes the blaster, while leaving the under portion unstressed. Upon closing, the user uses that charging handle to close, still somewhat creating stress on the boltsled. The new pullback method just drastically reduces stress on the boltsled.

EDIT: Exactly what Bullshit Dragon just wrote.

#297516 Armageddon XII Planning Thread

Posted by SorrowX on 24 April 2011 - 09:31 PM in Nerf Wars

Would the RPMBNB count as a SNAP in this listing? Just about any date is good for me and whoever on my group wants to attend.

#204165 I Have A Recon Dream...

Posted by SorrowX on 17 January 2009 - 04:06 PM in Modifications

I posted a write-up for the recon a while back. Since then, the recon broke from have too much power. I do believe recons can hit good ranges, you just better reinforce that sucker to go to hell and back. A recon that meets the expectations just... well it's doable, just not practical. You would need a vast amount of resources, those of which only slug and few others have. Just buy a longshot and angel breech it, getting a recon to get similar ranges just isn't worth the time and effort, trust us.

#178172 Egno (in Cali) (elk Grove Nerf Off)

Posted by SorrowX on 18 September 2008 - 08:28 PM in Nerf Wars

There's a war going on on the 25th, just to let you know.( yes in Cali) I think its on the second page "Halloweeno '08"

#248870 Improving The Streamline

Posted by SorrowX on 28 August 2009 - 12:18 AM in Modifications

Damn you Tantum Bull! I wanted to do the raider stefan clip. :cry:

Meh, I'll probably end up procrastinating and not doing it anyways. Back on topic, I've noticed a few in SoCal that do this, yet the hype is starting to die down.

#289447 Gyrostabilization Module

Posted by SorrowX on 30 November 2010 - 01:11 AM in Modifications

I have to say, that's frikkin' cool! This has no practical use in a nerf war, and gyroscopes belong in tanks, torpedoes, etc., not nerf guns. However, this may have a use in airsoft. I'll see if I can recreate this in one of my PEQ boxes and let you know on the results. Anyways, it does look a bit like a torpedo.

#295803 Japanese Earthquake/tsunami

Posted by SorrowX on 11 March 2011 - 02:57 PM in Off Topic

Isn't there a MAG-LEV train and a ship still missing?

#180745 Angel Breech On A Recon

Posted by SorrowX on 01 October 2008 - 12:40 AM in Modifications

I've finished mine, but it isn't really an angel breech. It made my Recon get about 75-80 flat, which is pretty amazing for me. I'll have a writeup in the next week or so.(alot easier than angel breech-recon style, mind you)

#241681 Armageddon Recap

Posted by SorrowX on 12 July 2009 - 10:40 PM in Nerf Wars

Yesterday was great, so much fun...

Pros-
- lots of fun
- being called terminator for the latter half of day due to my longshot
- showing off why NOT to use a slip coupler on a titan
- finding after the war that RFR's aren't that bad after all
- finally getting to do the shooter/spotter(support shot) setup
- soo many more

cons-
the bloodwing beetle's pump breaking before the first round
not much else

#288434 Titan Tank

Posted by SorrowX on 15 November 2010 - 01:37 PM in Modifications

Another option that would be safer to operate without a regulator is a pronane tank. I'm not talking about those big ones, of course, but the smaller ones that cost $2-$5. With a airsoft propane adapter (I reccomend the Airsoft Innovations yellow model) which is about $12 (and reuseable, of course) your titan tank will be able to shoot a titan missile about 80 feet, while still mainainting a relatively safer PSI of ~115 (DISCLAIMER: i say relatively because this is safer than using a CO2 tank without a regulator). The titan tank has a built in check valve, so you can patch the other inlet in the back and utilize the check valve as an inlet valve. By the way, this is not speculation, as I use this setup to power an airsoft rocket launcher that fires giga-stefans made out of pool noodles

.

#210472 M1 Garrand

Posted by SorrowX on 08 February 2009 - 02:16 PM in Modifications

If you have a QuarterMaster anywhere near where you live, you can buy wooden M1 grand and Springfield(no scope) replicas. they're the kinds used for spinning, so you probably won't have to worry about having to have a gun license. Hope this bit of info was of some help.

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