Sand out the insides with your new tool until 17/32" brass will fit snugly. Now take the other end of the 1/2" bras and stick it down until you get to the part of the barrel where it begins to telescope. Mark how far the brass is inserted and cut a piece of 17/32" brass that's that length. If you sanded it not quite enough, like myself, then you can just force the brass in without needing glue. Otherwise, glue it in.
You can see that a bit of the brass extends into the part of the bolt that holds the dart before it gets pushed into the bolt. This is because the farther in parts of the bolt didn't get sanded enough, so my brass wouldn't go all the way in, but I couldn't get it back out. I had to dremel off part of the brass so darts would still load.
Lube the eraser of a pencil and stick that end of it into the hole from the barrel side of the bolt. Then fill the entire back of the bolt with hot glue. Lube up some rod that fits in the bolt and shove it in to move the glue down every once in a while while you fill it. Otherwise the hot glue will just plug the top. When you're done and it's cooled, remove the pencil and drill through the hot glue.
Add another catch spring or replace the old one.
Put on some E-putty here.
You'll need to sand it like so if you did too much like me or it will get in the way of the catch and the gun won't prime.
Add some E-putty for good measure.
Dremel out the back of this piece.
Drill and dremel out anything else that would inhibit the spring. It's easiest to unscrew the stock portion when dealing with this tube.
This is how everything will work:
The real awesome part of the raider is putting the drum mag on a brass'd LS that can accept longer darts (like HC's).
New Step! >>> Modular Spring Set-up
Edited by TantumBull, 21 August 2009 - 03:30 PM.