Atomic Blaster + Splat + Ace #199 spring.
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There have been 718 items by taerKitty (Search limited from 12-December 96)
#301382 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 11 July 2011 - 11:17 PM in Modifications
Atomic Blaster + Splat + Ace #199 spring.
#305440 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 06 October 2011 - 02:24 PM in Modifications
#305656 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 10 October 2011 - 01:18 PM in Modifications
and firing video
No externals shot because it looks like a stock HF missing the louvered back part. Now, imagine it upside down, minimized, and under an LS.
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Edit: This is the final layout, but not the final measurements. In the final configuration, the trigger is fully depressed when the slide is forward. Assemble the blaster, then slowly and carefully ajust the zip tie tail out the back to get the measurements right.
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Edit: Per discussion with Bob, it seems more sense to distinguish this from SlamFire - with SlamFire, you have to hold the trigger back. With this, forcing the slide forward will discharge the blaster, so it's not exactly the same thing.
#297931 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 09 May 2011 - 12:44 PM in Modifications
Using the barrel as an accessory rail. In this case, having a 'backup shot' that quite possibly outranges the dart being propelled through the barrel.
The barrel clip is a chunk of 3/4" PVC cut with ratcheting cutters, with the edges filed down. It's solvent-welded to the expansion tank of the TESSPB, and snapped to the barrel, so it's easily removable. It's underslung because that's the way gravity will orient it after some bouncing around on the field.
I may add a zip tie or string to secure it, but that's more belt-n-suspenders than anything else. The 240 degrees of PVC is plenty stable.
#297563 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 25 April 2011 - 11:12 PM in Modifications
It's a BrokenSVT Tank-Expanded SSPB (TESSPB), but I found an interesting carry method - by using the tank expansion hose as a ring, I can carry this pumped and ready, out of the way until I flip it into position.
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For those who haven't seen his TESSPBs, here's a sample (but not the one he sent me)
The differences are that mine has a PVC tank instead of CPVC, and ended in a CPVC coupler, instead of the Sch. 80 barrel. It hits well over 90' with a 6" CPVC barrel. He's seen it hit 107'.
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I liked it so much, I gave it a try myself:
The tank only looks bigger. It's actually 3/4" CPVC over 1/2" PVC. I like the more even tank look. Glue is still drying, so ranges are ... 0.
#297173 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 15 April 2011 - 02:28 PM in Modifications
#297363 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 20 April 2011 - 04:31 PM in Modifications
#297413 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 21 April 2011 - 05:15 PM in Modifications
#305782 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 12 October 2011 - 07:59 PM in Modifications
How about we call it the Bu-TTG?
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I found it so striking I wanted to give it a go:
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Edit: Here's the write-up
#305833 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 13 October 2011 - 08:25 PM in Modifications
PowerStocked LS:
1/2" PVC-sized hole in the back of the LS
3/4" PVC
2 x TTG springs
Hot glue
Done!
#317131 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 18 June 2012 - 01:04 PM in Modifications
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I found that the ghetto-trigger from my first 4BullPup tended to bleed the valve badly. To address this, I present the 4BullPup-1A. Valve releases so quickly, it sounds like a gunshot. NF is completely non-functional. I'm just using it for the PR, PH, spring, and catch. This is it ready-to-fire.
Using the ghetto-lever trigger's zip-tie, and a cross of zip-ties so it slides when primed. Lever trigger has an extension spring to keep it closed when primed. 3/4" PVC screwed and epoxied to the front handle (and then zip-tied for added aesthetic insult). It pushes against the grey 1/2" PVC ring on first pump stroke, which is wasted. Subsequent pump strokes, it slides freely along the 1/2" CPVC guide rod.
On a fugly note, I love how everything is not parallel.
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To make up for double-post below, here's a shot of the balancing point for the 4BullPup-1A:
The previous one had the handle at the end of the PT and was very back-heavy. This one is perfectly balanced, but the stock throw from back to the trigger is only 10.5".
#317157 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 18 June 2012 - 10:31 PM in Modifications
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4BullPuppified Spy Gear Missile (not Signal) Launcher. Basically a 4B.
I took care of the offset pump by epoxying a bridge of CPVC between the nubs. Very good fit.
#317393 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 22 June 2012 - 10:09 PM in Modifications
At 33" long, I'm not sure it qualifies as a 'bullpup' anymore. 10 strokes from the bike pump sends a slug 100'. No OPRV, so no war-usage, though the whole "pump ten times, then fire" makes it less-than war-worthy.
It was the Spy Gear Rocket Launcher a few posts above, but the stock OPRV was very low (two pumps.) Maybe it was a bum one. Maybe that's just how it's set.
Unlike SVT4B's, these don't have a screw on the back side to adjust the cracking pressure. From experimenting, driving a screw into the opening in the pump face seems to work, but too late now.
#316686 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 07 June 2012 - 04:32 PM in Modifications
27-round drum (unless I can figure out a new follower, which I'm not currently planning to do.)
#316537 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 05 June 2012 - 08:07 AM in Modifications
Small ring of 1" PVC has a Nerf shell screw driven into it. the top of the 4B pump handle has a small hole formed in it, and the handle shell pried apart so it grips the screw. Who cares if it's loose? The whole point is the ring stays on the handle.
Why the ring? The piece of 3/4" PVC clamped to the barrel is the max extension for the pump handle.
Trigger detail. The trigger is a zip-tie. The stand-off is a wood screw driven into the PVC, then the head bolt-cut off. A piece of brass is screwed over it, and a screw eye is dropped into the end to keep the zip-tie in place. Lastly, the whole mess is mummified in duct tape.
Oh, and that zip-tie flapping in the wind? It's my 'sight'.
Airflow detail. The 4B already came with a PVC coupler attached, so there's a 90-degree CPVC elbow malletted into the coupler, and then a small (Nerf shell) screw driven into it to secure it. The rest of it is pressure-fit. I never know how long I'll want to keep my blasters in one configuration.
#306286 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 21 October 2011 - 02:48 PM in Modifications
Singled Triple Shot (I got it this way) with a universal coupler (1/2 of a 1/2" CPVC coupler shoved in a 1/2" PVC coupler), with adult-sized stock, 6-way speedloader, stock dart barrel, [k25] inside, and 1/3" tube of epoxy-putty as reinforcement.
#308092 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 07 December 2011 - 03:35 PM in Modifications
Barricon. I'm going to name it 'Barrie' after a young lady I once knew and pined for. Has feeding difficulties - I didn't know to shove the clip as far forward as I can, so I left the front nub that supports the turret. That 2mm is critical.
As you can see, it's a cut down LS stock. The beauty of this is that the LS stock can still be used, just with a lower profile a la' FA24's Lancer mod. It's held on with about 5 sticks of 4" x 0.45" hot glue, so it's as solid as an <idiom>.
This isn't the first instance of this implementation, either. pSyk did it a long while ago. Gluing the sawed off chunks of turret shroud was just a whim, and it looks pretty clean. Hm, given my .signature, maybe I should think of ways to fuglify it...
#233672 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 31 May 2009 - 08:45 PM in Modifications
My first paintjob - went with a simple red / white / black theme.
My first Longshot mod, too - removed AR and safeties so it can be uncocked, magazine catch worked with the bolt forward, etc. Integrated the Recon's ladder sight. Removed the cocking handle and moved the cocking mechanism inside the body, cycled by the front gun handle. Writeup here.
Also my second Longshot mod - tried to brass the breech, massive fail.
Range: 0'. Anyone have a spare LS bolt they want to sell? >_<
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'Y' clip. I wanted a side-by-side clip; reloading with a down-over-up motion seems faster than down, flip and try-to-jam-the-clip-back-in-with-my-arm-awkwardly-twisted.
Really simple 'mod' really - I was looking for a spacer block that would allow for the magazine well wall thickness for both the Longshot and the Recon. Turns on another clip fits the bill perfectly. After a bit of experimentation, I decided that a 'forward roll' rotation (end-over-end along the Z axis) was better than a 'barrel roll' rotation (around the Y axis), hence 1/3 the darts face backwards.
#296883 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 30 March 2011 - 08:15 AM in Modifications
Pump-replaced, tank-expanded UMB with an internal wye.
#251594 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 25 September 2009 - 11:12 AM in Modifications
It's a SwitchShot with the standard mods: AR removal, re-sprung, plunger rod / head reinforcement, added catch spring, and 2" of 17/32" shoved down the bore. There's enough room for 9/16" as well, hence the extend-a-barrel.
The barrel is removable, otherwise the blaster can't be separated from the lower receiver. It actually serves a purpose. The spring is 20# or so, enough to disengage the front catch when fired. The barrel helps keep the blaster from falling off when this happens.
Plunger rod reinforcing putty is painted Traffic Orange. When the NF is primed, the plunger rod looks 'stock', at least from enough distance to not catch the change in texture from putty to plastic. One of the goas is, aside from the extend-a-barrel, to keep the blaster looking as 'stock' as possible.
#239052 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 28 June 2009 - 02:47 PM in Modifications
#274999 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 16 May 2010 - 09:47 PM in Modifications
Drilled out AR, PETG barrel, bungee-ed. A straightened staple inserted across the diameter of the barrel serves as a dart-stop. The receiver has holes drilled into it for the bungee hooks, which are turned 180 degrees.
Darts are 1-1/4" long with 2 #6 washers. The NF is muzzle-loading, and a stick of hot glue makes a great ramrod. E-taped so it seats snugly in the ammo holder. The rest of it has some box tape around it so it doesn't get nicked up too badly. \
#260906 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 06 January 2010 - 03:39 AM in Modifications
#251793 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 27 September 2009 - 12:49 AM in Modifications
NiteFinder with the standard mods: AR removal, re-sprung, plunger rod / handle / head reinforcement, added catch spring, and 2" of 17/32" shoved down the bore. There's enough room for 9/16" as well, hence the extend-a-barrel. Same as the SwitchShot, in other words. Only new addition are half-inch long rings of OMC/PETG over the lens adjustment arms.
The extend-a-barrel doesn't work for many Streamlines - they have some spilled over glue where the head meets the body. It works for stefans very nicely. It's made from the LongShot's extend-a-barrel. The end is filed down to mate with the NF's muzzle cleanly. Because of the PETG rings, it can't be mistaken for stock, unlike the SwitchShot.
The putty along the plunger rod and filling in the pull-handle is painted Traffic Orange, so it looks passably 'normal'. No paintjob planned - this is an office toy, nothing more.
#259100 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 15 December 2009 - 07:42 PM in Modifications
Looks stock (all right, with a mouse-pad-bedded barrel), right? (The zip-tie loop off the scope is for me to hang it off my arms rack in my office.)
Nope. It's got a breech. It's made out of OMC PETG and some copper tubing someone left me. The seal is almost perfect - it can vacuum-load the dart if it's dropped in the muzzle. The barrel is copper over the PETG, under the CS-6 shooter barrel, and the copper + orange barrel extends about 4" past the end of the PETG.
And and, what's better, it takes CS-6 clips. The breech is just a 270-degree rectangle filed out of the the copper pipe, By hand. Yes, this is a one-off. The top of the breech is wide enough to keep the clip in place. You can only load the clip with the breech closed - the PETG spreads the lips wide enough to seat properly.
It tends to shave about 1 in 20 darts or so. No ranges - it's good enough for Office Wars. Oh, and a parting shot of it ready to rock:
If you look at the screw hole, you'll see the CS-6's 'clip notch' is a perfect height to the rear edge of the magazine well. I just lucked out.
#238084 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 22 June 2009 - 09:15 PM in Modifications
Until the Raider comes out, something to tide over those of us in the "quantity, not quality" school of mis-marksmanship.
#278241 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 21 June 2010 - 11:19 PM in Modifications
Extreme close-up:
Tools: Boltcutter, pliers, pipecutter.
Supplies: one wire handle from a medium binder clip, a #8 washer, 1/2" cpvc to serve as the fulcrum, 3/8" cpvc to block the binder clip wire, and a bit of crap foam to fill it up.
#293673 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 01 February 2011 - 12:01 AM in Modifications
Plunger and catch springs replaced, plunger head seal tightened, stefan-length ammo holders added.
The Two-Face aspect is especially noticeable from the top:
#293770 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 02 February 2011 - 10:04 PM in Modifications
#293407 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 26 January 2011 - 09:10 PM in Modifications
#283952 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 25 August 2010 - 01:53 AM in Modifications
Homemade lever trigger, spring in the pump handle to single-hand wield, and homemade low-angle hopper.
Two foot CPVC barrel. The breech end is reamed out with a pair of kitchen shears so it's nice and inviting, then percussed into the PVC wye. The blaster already came with a PVC coupler, so the PVC wye is a perfect fit. A coupler is solvent-welded to the magazine branch of the wye. On the field, this will likely be fed by a SpeedHopper.
#282333 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 06 August 2010 - 04:48 PM in Modifications
Unsure if this is anything new / newsworthy, but what SublimeDom77 on IRC dubbed the SpeedHopper.
Topmost dart sometimes falls out of it. It also falls when I point the blaster above 45-degrees, but when would that happen?
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MuttonChops' Chopper, lowest profile I can manage. I used 1" thinwall PVC on the outside to join it. It's tight enough to solvent weld holds it to the wye. More solvent weld to attach the elbow to the wye. I needed to wrap the 45-degree elbow in some e-tape to get it seat properly. That's not airtight, and I don't trust the solvent weld itself, so there's a ring of hot glue top and bottom.
Biggest win: bigger throat leading to the wye into which for the dart to fall. I prime it by moving the blaster back and forth - that's enough to jostle the dart into the wye, but I did have one misfeed. Maybe I had the blaster tilted slightly back when I was pumping it.
Ball valve on the back to load, with a ring of 1-1/4", with a 120-degree chunk cut out, to stabilize it. The wye + Chopper come off the blaster as one piece. The three-quarter 1-1/4" ring stays on the blaster. I guess it works as a sight. I just added it, so I'll have to see come next war.
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Close-up of the connection. (Also, a ring of CPVC dart holders. Nothing special about that; I just wanted to explain the purple stuff (primer) in case anyone was wondering.)
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There's a nub of PVC on the blaster that stays. The barrel detaches, so each wye is pretty much dedicated to its own magazine system.
#237935 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 22 June 2009 - 02:40 AM in Modifications
#258553 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by taerKitty on 09 December 2009 - 11:39 PM in Modifications
All but the Recon are modded. For some reason, my coworkers don't want to get into a Nerf fight with me...
#297894 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by taerKitty on 06 May 2011 - 11:14 AM in Homemades
Design goals:
- No exotic materials. Check. This thing is made out of 1/2" PVC, 1/2" CPVC, and a 1/2" CPVC coupler. It uses epoxy putty, super glue, and, of course, DUCT TAPE!
- No exotic tooling. Check. This thing requires rotary pipecutters, ratcheting pipecutters, rubber bands, a file, a hammer, and a ruler.
- Easy to make. Check. Even though the barrels are regularly spaced, it uses basic geometry to place them, so mis-aligning or offsetting barrels is very difficult.
#304179 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by taerKitty on 01 September 2011 - 07:26 PM in Homemades
Made from PVC EMT, hence the bell ends. They're also UV resistant, and a bit cheaper than PVC from plumbing at Home Depot. 5' per side, so it's big enough for a person to crouch behind, but not to 'stand and deliver'. Loops at each corner for tent stakes, so it doesn't become a sail or kite.
Collapses to 2.5' lengths of pipe for easy transport.
Costs me $8 for parts, 15 minutes to assemble, a minute to collapse and another minute to deploy. However, all the loose rope can easily become a Gordian knot, so it will have to be packed carefully.
#277967 Dartsmithing Tips Archive
Posted by taerKitty on 17 June 2010 - 08:59 PM in Darts and Barrels
The way I'm reading this, it's 20' of closed cell foam for $0.62. But...M-D Building Products 71480 Backer Rod for Gaps and Joints
by M-D Building Products
List Price: $4.29
Price: $0.62
You Save: $3.67 (86%)
...
Product Description
Nonabsorbent, closed cell polyethylene pre caulking material. Use before caulking to fill gaps and openings larger than 1 2" x 1 2". Prevents 3 point bonding. No. 71464: 3 8" diameter x 20' L. No. 71480: 1 2" diameter x 20' L. No. 71506: 5 8" diameter x 2
Shipping is $6.24. However, it appears that's for up to 1lb, and the unit weight is 2.4 oz. because I purchased 20 of them and got charged $18-and-change for shipping. Total is $30-and-change, so that's still $1.50 per 20'.
Arrives 23-28th, which may be after Dayko's war. Oh, well. I'll post about its density when it arrives.
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Edit: Originally said it was Draconis' War. Thanks TantumBull
#295681 Dartsmithing Tips Archive
Posted by taerKitty on 09 March 2011 - 06:27 PM in Darts and Barrels
#306678 Dartsmithing Tips Archive
Posted by taerKitty on 29 October 2011 - 04:58 PM in Darts and Barrels
Durability: Can it be fired again and again (and a few dozen more 'again's)?
Searchability: Can it be found again and again, etc. in grass, in rough, in wherever you Nerf?
Cost: Will it cost less than $0.05 each? I Nerf because AS and PB are expensive.
Size: If you size it for 1/2" PVC, it's a non-starter for most people. It won't work in hoppers, and your nucking futs if you think everyone is going to rebarrel.
Accessibility: How easy is it for everyone to find the parts to make them? Single source sucks. I should be able to, with guidance, get the parts either at a hardware store, a home improvement depot, or a collection of online merchants and make them.
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