If you want to start a business, here are a few tips.

1: Spell things correctly. Wrapped in paper.

2: Provide pictures of your work, especially when offering painting services.

3: Provide all information up front, Price, Shipping Charges, Payment Methods and Turnaround Time.

Good luck.

Like This perhaps?

The PowerClip was clear/blue, the Splitfire is clear/green. I haven't seen others.

Will you PLEASE edit your damn first post so that it's correct?

"How not to LOSE fingers to an LS"

Loose is what your... Well, I won't finish that thought.

I recently got a set of Dremel's fairly new "EZ-Lock" cutting wheels for plastic, and the special mandrel they require, and I am impressed - I have yet to wear out the first wheel. More expensive than the red junky wheels, but now I see it's probably more cost-effective too.

These are the disks I use, EZ-Lock for Plastic and Metal, they are quite possibly the best cutting wheels I've ever had for the dremel.

I looked all over the internet I couldn't find anything on a precision extension. I have metal cut-off wheels and I have pretty steady hands, yet I still can't make straight cuts. So I was wondering where you get the precision extension or any tool that makes perfect straight cuts.

I'm pretty sure that the accessory he was referring to is a Craftsman Shaper Table very much like this

No bob, that's in fact NOT what I'm talking about and if you'll note the date that I was all excited about smoothy my handles, you'll note I wrote this post WAY before I got a router table attachment for my rotary tool.

I'm talking about the 225-01 Flex Shaft Attachment put out by Dremel.

I have a steady hand and can make straight cuts with it. Alternatively you can put it in a vice and manipulate the brass instead of the tool.

I have something for JB Weld-
REALLY powerful. I've heard its been used to repair industrial machines. A little dab is super strong. It's best used for repairs, (eg- Re-gluing a Manta Ray wing on, Reattaching a pump, etc) as it take a few minutes to set and is weak while setting. Don't fool around with it, because that shit's permanent.

Also a note on JB Weld, it does NOT bond to brass well, works great on plastics, bad on brass.

I have a low temp hot glue gun.

And don't insult my dart making ability. The only reason you melt so few is because you use an ammount of glue equivelent to the size of a ladybug in each dart. You don't even put any glue inside to secure the weights. Firing your darts out of my higher powered blasters would cause the weights to migrate from the front of the dart to the back. Also, hitting anything less than 40' would result in weights flying out the side, because you didn't secure the damn things. So don't give me any crap about my dart making ability. I've never broken one of my darts, but I've broken all of yours.

Actually, I use a good amount of glue on all my darts now, I'm sorry you got a batch with insufficient glue on them, however my darts are perfectly secured now.

And LSW/Shrub, die.

Don't switch to Mile high foam, though. It's horrible with heat, and turns into a horrible black mess.

Don't blame the foam for your inability to correctly make stefans.

I have made easily over 7000 stefans out of Mile High with hot glue and I have melted perhaps 10 and never into a "Horrible Black Mess" just deformed the tips a bit because I put too much glue in too fast.

A LOW TEMP glue gun is ESSENTIAL to making stefans in either the felt/washer method or the BB/Hot Glue method.

Not to hi - jack your thread but what's the mcmaster number for the ar-15?

McMaster doesn't sell AR-15 springs, you have to get them from an arms supplier.

You can get something similar though, if you can figure out what spring is half the pull strength of the +Bow spring.

Sweet write up I'll have to try this at Apoc.

Thanks if u know of anyway to make it better please let me know.

Fix your grammar, don't use "u" in place of "you", fix your capitalization and add some pictures.

That's how you can make it better.

Ahh... Yer trying to confuse folks again, Hereticorp.


The +Bow spring is the 9637K26, (0.08" wire diameter, 0.844" OD, 3.09 coils/inch, 130 constant)
while the "LpL" spring is the 9637K25 (0.08" wire diameter, 0.968 OD, 2.18 cpi, 84 constant)

but even the weaker [k25] is stronger than the AR-15 spring.

The 9637K27 is a beast, with 0.08 Wire diameter, 0.72" OD, 3.55cpi, and a 225 constant.

Fixed.



Top to Bottom: [k26] (+Bow), [k25] (LpL), AR-15 Buffer Spring

I need to know which spring is stronger; Ar-15 or +bow? I need to know so I can start my new homemade project.

They're pretty much the same. AR-15 springs come in two different lengths though.

Sorry Slug, but I have to differ on this one.

I have an AR15 spring right here alongside the [k26] spring, which is the +Bow spring.

The +Bow is thicker wire, has a 1/16" smaller ID and is in fact a MUCH stronger spring. I can take pictures of the AR15/[k25]/K27 together for comparison, but there is no question in my mind that the AR-15 buffer spring is not nearly as strong as the +Bow spring.

If you want a good spring for a homemade, try the [k25] from McMaster, which is listed in my LpL Sales Thread as the LpL Spring, it's nice and versatile and it fits perfectly inside 1" PVC.

Hereticorp nice job.
Has anyone tried using The Five Minute Foam Factory...

Thanks, you didn't need to post just to say that, and the rest... No.

No, no one has ever used something like that, because it would be stupid.

How're you going to make the advancing mechanism? How're you going to make the foam move onto the wire? Or the wire through the foam?

Try working out some of these issues yourself, use google, don't clutter up threads with offtopic crap.

If you modify the shell, it's best to do it so well and so cleanly that it would be difficult to tell that the blaster shell didn't come out of the mold that way.

If you have integrations in your gun that improve the function, but some tubing and the barrels are on the outside, would that take away from cleanliness?

You didn't read what you quoted.

YES. External piping and etc will take away from a cleanliness score because the STOCK SHELL does not have that.

1)Honestly I did not Know What to call the breach
2) i COULDENT THINK OF A BETTER NAME
3) Yes it is a Rf20 Glued on. Tt is almost inpossible to attach it any other way because of the trigger.
4) I just finished it last night and have not done any work on apperaences yet. Sorry it does not look good but it is way better than a Dtg integration: 20 shots and no primeing after every shot

1) That's nice, IT'S NOT A BREECH. Breaches open in the middle for darts to be loaded.

2) YOUR MOD DOES NOT DESERVE A NAME. Names go to incredible mods.

3) Then maybe another gun would have worked better, and you can do a LOT more than that with the RF20

4) No, but OVER 9000 PUMPS between you splattering your load all over. Not to mention reload time. Which the LS already has issues with being as it's singled.

Grade: FAIL.

Every crop of FNGs seems to bear a dozen who think that, because they can squeeze a tube of Goop or unroll some e-tape (yet couldn't use a search function to find their own ass), what they have done deserves recognition as "innovation" ...

Not only that, but they also think that every glue-together POS mod deserves a name, which is patently untrue.

This is the Messiah. I love this thing. It has an Ice Cpvc breach and a Rf20 integration.

What is with this trend of naming utterly shit mods? That looks horrid.

That's also singled, which is not a breech, it's a muzzle loader.

The RF20 looks like you sort of rested the longshot on and applied glue. No points for style.

The Doomsayer is a modification that FA42 did to the RFDG, it is NOT a catchall name for whatever "Attach a turret to a gun" mod that people do.

Calling your shitpiece a "Mini Doomsayer" is not only insulting to the incredible amount of care and work FA24 puts into his mods, it's also just downright moronic.

Try for a little creativity in naming next time, but this mod doesn't deserve a name, a name is only given to a mod that has taken the next step above the common mundanity.

I daresay that if you actually put some paint on that thing and maybe made it look a little less like something my cat threw up, it might deserve a name.

READ THIS POST

And to answer your question, the half pipe is 9/16"

The clip goes over the 19/32" when the BREECH IS CLOSED. The clip flexes enough to snap over.

Again, and I caps this because YOU CAN DAMAGE YOUR BREECH if you don't follow this instruction.

LOAD CLIPS ONLY WHEN THE BREECH IS CLOSED. LEAVE ONE DART SPACE IN THE CLIP WHEN LOADING.

You will bend the ever living fuck out of your halfpipe if you try and load a clip with the breech open.

Here's a couple preview shots of a commission I'm working on now.

I'll be adding custom stenciling to the list of things I can do to a +Bow and a Longshot in my sales thread. Possibly also the LpL if I can get something small enough to fit on there.





That's all for now folks, the rest is pretty much like my Hereti Corp Assault Rifle but with some updated designs.

And here's the completed comission:

And 2, hereticorp, I can't get to a place to buy the stuff for your mod. I was just saying that the yellow ones have a better stock seal than the blue one. Jeez.

You can't get to a hardware store? You must really live in the sticks.

Ace, Lowes, Home Despot and pretty much any other hardware store will sell the needed items.

I need one of those. Fucking brilliant design.

Thanks, you can feel free to recreate it with the electrical diagram provided.

Do you plan on making any more machines and selling them?

NO, I will not be building these for sale. The AFC is a conglomeration of spare parts and junk that have been sitting around for years, I'm not going to be making any more.

I sell blanks and pre-made stefans, that's as close as you're going to get.

On the plus side for you people who want one of your own, there's an electrical diagram posted and I think if you want it bad enough, you can figure out how to build one on your own.

Could someone please create a slightly more detailed writeup or a quick drawing in Paint (application)? Thanks so much in advance. Sorry, I'm having a hard time understanding some things about the check valve, specifically how the spring/ball combo stays in place and which tubing it is located in. Thanks again, and great creation!

2 lengths of 1/8"x1/4" tubing
1 length of 1/4"x3/8" tubing
1 ball bearing (7/36" or 3/16")
1 spring

Spring + Ball Bearing goes in the 1/4"x3/8" tubing

1/8"x1/4" tubing gets glued on each end of the 1/4"x3/8" tubing.

How can you not get that from the picture? I mean seriously kid.

Oooh mystery switch, what does thaat do?!

But really, that's a cool addition. What did you have to do before, sit there counting? Or did you know how many blanks/minute or whatever it made and time it right?

What I did before was let it run for a while and then count the blanks into the box after straightening.

I do know how many blanks per minute, but I didn't keep that close track of how long it ran. Besides, I could always use extras to make my own stefans and stuff to sell.

Cool. Can you make it's self turn off ofter it made a specific number of stefans? That way, you wouldn't have to check on it to see how much longer it will take.

I could if I cared enough to automate it that much, however I don't. This is just to give me an idea of what's in the bag when I shut it off. Besides, I run it while I'm modding right next to the cutter, so it's not a big issue to check on it.

I believe that would suffice if one used Java.

That said, you'd need an external main method to allow you to set the number you want.

If I wanted to do it that way, I'd just add a power-off timer to the main power strip of the unit, that way I would know how long it ran and thus how many blanks.

I've added a counter so that I know exactly how many blanks have gone into the bag, this will make selling blanks a lot less annoying.

Enjoy the new pics and vid on the first post.

Excellent writeup! One thing I noticed was different from my own builds, though... On the plunger head, you use the large washer in front, and the small in the back. I do the reverse. Any particular reason?

Just seemed logical to me, no idea why really.

OPTIONAL: Countersink the holes with a 3/8" spade bit so that the screw and nut don't stick out and so you can use a 3/4" screw instead of a longer one you have to cut off.


Detach the spring from the catch plate, insert the 3/4" screw through the lower loop of your catch spring and secure with a nut, then reattach the catch spring to the catch plate.


Attach the 2 3/4" pieces of 1/2" Nylon Rod to the plunger rod using your last 2" screw and nut. Tighten as much as possible to avoid annoyance.


Use a dremel to sand down the edges so that you don't cut your hand open on sharp grip edges or your finger on the trigger. Or if you enjoy blowing money like me, get a router table or what amounts to a router table.


The finished grip, routed and comfortable.


Closer view of the grip.


And finally, since I'm so happy with my router table, an extreme closeup of the beautiful job it does.

Hope you enjoyed the writeup, as always I am selling LpL CSs in my LpL CS Sales Thread

Use your 6-32 Tapping bit to tap the hole.


Assemble the plunger head using the two round polycarbonate pieces and the washer with the spacer. Use a 3/4" screw to attach the plunger head to the plunger rod. Do NOT over tighten this, make it solid so that the plunger head does not rotate, but if you tighten it more the washer will expand and you will lose power on the blaster, you may even find that it fails to function at all.


Place the plunger cross over the screws on the inside of the catch. Spray a small amount of silicon lube into the plunger tube. Slide the polycarbonate plunger tube over the cross. Slide the spring over the plunger rod, and slide the plunger rod into the plunger tube until the spring contacts the plunger cross.


Wrap your 1" PVC fitting with 5 wraps of standard electrical tape, and insert it approximately 1/2" into the plunger tube. Far enough in so that the screw holes overlap. Then slide the plunger tube and fitting out a little bit.


Make sure the tape fits very tight, you will have to twist the fitting to get it to go in far enough if you did it right.


Wrap the outside of the fitting and the front of the plunger tube with eTape to complete the seal. Then slide the tube back into place, you should end up with the fitting resting against the plunger head and the screw hole about half way up the inserted part of the fitting.


Use the 5/32" drill bit to drill out the holes using the barrel frame as a guide. Make sure the plunger tube is aligned vertically before drilling. Drill through the plunger tube and the PVC, then flip the blaster over and do the same on the other side.


Insert a 1-1/4" Screw through the frame, tube and PVC and secure it with a nut on the other side. Again, do NOT over tighten this, it can distort the plunger tube, just tighten it enough so the lock washer engages.


Take your catch spring and attach it to the catch plate with a 3/8" screw, then measure where the end of the spring hits on the grip. Add 1/2" and drill a hole using the 5/32" bit, drill all the way through both sides of the grip.

Use a 1-1/4" screw to attach the trigger to the trigger housing as shown, use the 3/8" unthreaded spacers to allign the trigger and use one of the nuts to secure. Do not over tighten, make sure the trigger can move freely but also make sure the lock washer is fully engaged so that the trigger doesn't decide to fall out suddenly.


Grab the two barrel frame pieces and use 1/4" screws to attach them to the grip using the standoffs you screwed into the trigger housing earlier.


You should end up with something that looks like this.


Insert the catch and line it up with the rearmost holes in the barrel frame, make sure the catch is all the way down and in contact with the grip. Mark the locations of the holes on both sides.


After marking, remove the catch assembly and you should have something like this


Use your 13/64" drill bit to drill out holes where you marked.


Use the 6-32 Tapping Bit to tap all 4 holes.


Replace the catch in the frame and use 3/8" screws to attach it.


Take your plunger rod and use your 13/64" drill bit to drill a hole in the center of the flat end, make it about 1" deep

Welcome one and all to my LpL CS Construction writeup.

This has been a long time in coming being as I've been too busy making them for comission to do pictures, but finally it is here and you can all rejoice.

To build an LpL CS, you will need a few things, and it is much cheaper to do so if you are also building a +Bow
You can find the details of the materials needed in the L+L CS SDK Thread this guide will cover construction of the LpL CS.

Tools Needed:
Scroll Saw or JigSaw
Drill Press or handheld Power Drill
Phillips Screw Driver
Knife (To clean the edges of the polycarbonate)
6-32 Tapping Bit
13/64" Drill Bit
5/32" Drill Bit
7/64" Drill Bit
5/16" Spade Bit
3/8" Spade Bit
9/16" Spade Bit

You will also need some full sheet label paper to print out the templates on.

Print out the templates and cut them out, lay them out on the polycarbonate along with your +Bow templates, it should only take one sheet of 1/8" and one sheet of 1/4" total.

Cut out the polycarbonate pieces using a scroll saw or jig saw, and make sure to cut out or drill out all the interior holes as well. Pay special attention to the catch drilling because you are going to use a 5/16" Spade Bit, NOT the 9/16" that the template indicates. If you lay the spades out you'll see that one fits the hole marked and one doesn't.

Cut the main spring in half, leaving a 6" piece, you can cut it to 6.5" if you want but it's not going to help anything.

Cut a 6.5" piece of PETG tube, yes this wastes 4.5" of a 12" piece, but I'm sure you can figure out something else to do with it.


This is what you should have when you're done.
1 Set of Polycarbonate pieces, cut and drilled
1 Main Spring, cut to 6"
1 Catch Spring (You'll have to find one of your own, the one in the pic is an Ace, I think it's #178)
1 6.5" length of PETG Tube
2 3/4" Lengths of 1/2" Nylon Rod drilled through the center with a 5/32" Bit
3 3/4" F to F standoffs (Yes, there's 5 in the picture, you need 3)
4 1/4" F to M standoffs
2 3/8" Unthreadeded Round Spacers
1 1/2" OD, 1/8" Length Unthreaded Spacer
1 1/2" Screw Size 1-3/8" OD Extra Thick Reinforced Rubber Washer
8 Nylon 6/6 Flat Washers
5 3/4" Screws
1 1-1/4" Screw
2 2" Screws
9 3/8" Screws
10 1/4" Screws
3 Lockwasher Integrated Nuts
1 SCH40 PVC Pipe Fitting 1" to 1/2" Compression Fitting


Use your Tapping bit to thread all the appropriate holes, two on each trigger housing piece, two on each grip piece, one on the catch plate and four on the fixed catch plate.


Peel off the templates and the protective plastic from all your polycarb pieces, leaving you with your materials.


Assemble the catch, gather the two pieces of the catch together and place 4 nylon washers over the holes on the fixed catch plate, put the other 4 nylon washers on 4 3/4" Screws. Place the catch plate over the fixed catch plate and insert the four screws into their corresponding holes. Tighten them down almost all the way, making sure that the catch plate can freely move vertically but that it doesn't rattle back and forth.


Gather the pieces pictured above in order to assemble the grip.


Screw the M to F standoffs into the threaded holes on top of the trigger housing pieces and use3/8" screws to attach the trigger housing pieces to the grips as pictured.


Use the 3/4" standoffs to attach the two resulting pieces together, two standoffs in the grip and one to attach the lower part of the trigger housing. Use 1/4" screws to attach.


Your completed grip should look like this.

And also, the yellow ones have better O-rings.

Fuck O-Rings, do the plunger head mod I posted, much superior.

I guess Hasbro's number one policy is be true to their name...

Keep Nerf-ing their Nerf guns...

Well, they do have to keep up the term, or gamers all over the world will have to find a new word to use when the WoW people do balance patches.

So I was over at K-Mart picking up a Longshot for a commission that I received and I noticed that they had the yellow longshots in stock.

So being the smart person I am, I picked up their last blue one, figuring that by the nature of nerf, it would be better.

Well, I got it home and took it apart, and to my amazement I found that it has a new spring.

A new, suckier, spring.





The Silver is the old spring, the black is the new.

The black's wire thickness is slightly smaller than the silver, and the resistance to compression is noticeably lower.

So I suspect the yellow LS is going to suck, but we'll see after I'm forced to buy one for a commission.

It has to be "site:nerfhaven.com" - leave out the "www"

Click here for an example.

Original post edited to reflect, sorry about that.

Edit: Sonofabitch.

Oh irony, you are so sweet.

And on a different note: Cheeses crusty, got all musty, got damp on the stone of a peach. Say it out loud.

So since you all are spazzing out about the 500 errors that have been happening, here's something you can do to save the server a little bit of load.

Go to www.google.com

Enter your search term, say... MaxShot

After that, enter this nifty little bit: site:nerfhaven.com

So it would look like this in google: maxshot site:nerfhaven.com

That will search NH for the word maxshot using Google instead of the Invision Power Board search engine.

Make sure there are no spaces in the site:nerfhaven.com section or it won't work right.

As an added bonus, the Google search isn't case sensitive like the NH one is.

Enjoy!

Love the paintjob.

The only downside is that the MS bladder is designed to expand backwards, not out. You've left almost no space for it to do that and that's why you're not getting very good performance out of it.

I'm honestly not sure what to do about that other than cut a hole in the back of the tank for the bladder to expand out of, but that's not really a good option.

If you had a bladder with thinner walls it would expand more out than back.

Yes, I'm resurrecting this thread because I got new toys for my workshop and I finally took some pictures.















And before JSB jumps in, yes, I work like a pig in shit. In other words, very messy.

See, mine doesn't actually block the barrel, the barrel can run along the top edge of the blade, that's the point.

Like that. Straight blade with a little hook on the end, barrel runs across the top of the blade instead of along the side. Revolver portion is optional. Pump in the handle. Basically an extended grip pistol with a very large blade mounted under the barrel.