13 replies to this topic

[Thom]

I have a mostly completed Angel breach. The brass is all cut and slides nicely. My understanding of the breach's working was that the half-pipe should be in line with the clip, settling between the "wings" so that the darts are pressed immediately into it. The trouble is that a half-pipe of 9/16 brass, being no narrower in its orientation than a full pipe does not fit between the "wings" on top of the magazine, which would seem to make inserting a clip impossible. Yet the pictures in Angel's thread make it quite clear that the half-pipe is, indeed, fully half the circumference, and much of the half-pipe appears to be directly above the wings of the magazine.

My question is simply: what the hell am I missing? There is no physical way that I can make the parts I have operate in the way I understand. I've never heard of this issue before, which leads me to believe that I'm doing something silly.

Thanks for any help, and apologies in advance if it's something obvious.

[flyingchicken]

Shouldn't the halfpipe part be 17/32's? It fits.

Edited by flyingchicken, 07 April 2009 - 05:47 PM.

[rokor]

It would not matter if the barrel section is less than half of it. Maybe Angel just took the picture before re-cutting to get it to fit. But since it does not fit, don't be scared to cut more, it will do nothing.

[hereticorp]

READ THIS POST

And to answer your question, the half pipe is 9/16"

The clip goes over the 19/32" when the BREECH IS CLOSED. The clip flexes enough to snap over.

Again, and I caps this because YOU CAN DAMAGE YOUR BREECH if you don't follow this instruction.

LOAD CLIPS ONLY WHEN THE BREECH IS CLOSED. LEAVE ONE DART SPACE IN THE CLIP WHEN LOADING.

You will bend the ever living fuck out of your halfpipe if you try and load a clip with the breech open.

[rokor]

Oh, I just learned something new.

[umpshaplapa]

READ THIS POST

And to answer your question, the half pipe is 9/16"

The clip goes over the 19/32" when the BREECH IS CLOSED. The clip flexes enough to snap over.

Again, and I caps this because YOU CAN DAMAGE YOUR BREECH if you don't follow this instruction.

LOAD CLIPS ONLY WHEN THE BREECH IS CLOSED. LEAVE ONE DART SPACE IN THE CLIP WHEN LOADING.

You will bend the ever living fuck out of your halfpipe if you try and load a clip with the breech open.

I can say I have experienced this. The clip wouldn't go in, so like a dumb ass, I didn't bother to see why it wasn't going in and smacked it in as hard as I could. I had to make a new half pipe.

[Thom]

Ah, that makes sense. I guess I can't really cut down the wings any; my darts would fall out. I'm actually doubling my 19/32 with an otherwise identical layer of 5/8 brass, so I'll have a bit more strain on my clips than y'all. Perhaps to compensate, I'll give the mag walls a tad more flex by cutting through the topmost attachment point.

Awesome LS BTW, hereticorp. I've been using that thread as a reference; I just didn't get the part about the clip wings bending over the bolt.

On a related note, does anyone have suggestions for additional ways to reinforce the bolt/small plastic block bond? I'm already machining my own block from delrin, which of course won't solder to the brass. Is Zap-a-Gap really stronger than, say, JB-Weld? I'm reinforcing EVERYTHING that's bearing a load (hell, I'm machining my own bolt sled from scratch tomorrow morning); I expect this bond to be the weakest point. It occurred to me to try to get a bolt through both layers of brass there, with the caveat that I'd have to make sure it still slid over the barrel.

Would it be possible to make that block out of aluminum and solder it to the brass, or would the different thermal properties make that impossible?

[BobRedshirt]

Hmm. This topic looks like a perfect opportunity to ask my question. First, I'd like to say that it probably won't be necessary to mod the wings of the mag at all - when I Angel breached my friend's Longshot, I kept most of the top half of the original barrel, sanded the inside down, and glued that entire piece onto the top (someone else did this in their mod, posted recently, I just copied that), and I had no problems loading the mag over the wider barrel.

My question is about the bond between the small orange piece and the brass: after a single half-hour or so of running around and shooting people with my completed Angel breached longshot (this is a different one, not the one I glued half the barrel on), the bond between the orange nub and the brass broke. I was using a cyanoacrylate superglue (Slow Jet), similar to Zap, I think, along with a spray-on accelerator. All I had in the gun is a LS spring and a first gen NF spring! Anyone know how I can prevent this from happening again, especially once I replace the NF spring with a BBB spring? Should I use a different glue?

Edited by BobRedshirt, 09 April 2009 - 12:24 AM.

[Forsaken angel24]

A good tip I have for making a better bond is keeping that orange piece long on the one end.
Not the end that has the prong but the other end that would lead towards the plunger tube.

Keep it as long as possible.
Flip the orange part backwards so where the nub was is now facing the plunger tube.
It will still line up with blue insert gap in the bolt sled.
Then trim the whole piece to size so it fits nicely.
You will not have an orange piece that is a little nub. Instead you will now have a nub with a large orange flap that sticks forwards towards the front of the gun. This creates a larger adhesion zone and therefore strengthens the bond between the orange nub and the brass.

This might sound complicated.
It really isn't.
I just so happen to be working on another Longshot now.
I might be able to post photos of what I am talking about soon.

[Thom]

Actually, I'm making my own block out of some leftover delrin – I'm taking measurements of my breach to make sure the contact surface is as large as possible. Should be ~ 1.5 in^2.

Come to think of it, I'm replacing every working part except the plunger shaft and tube, trigger, and magazines. Should be interesting to see how much power I can shove into it before it explodes.

[NerfRogue83]

**Should be interesting to see how much power I can shove into it before it explodes.
[/quote]*****


That is absoulutely added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my butthole! Keep us posted on that little project, and if it does explode please post pics of the carnage.

Edited by NerfRogue83, 09 April 2009 - 07:28 AM.

[Thom]

Well, the sides of the bolt sled are done. It slides nicely. The only parts I still need to machine are the bolt block and the back part of the bolt that slides in the plunger tube. I'm hoping to bum a bit of scrap brass from the machine shop for the block, as I could solder that in place. If not, It'll be Delrin and superglue. If I solder the block, the weakest point will probably be the bolt sled itself. I should really get a Mechie to figure out how much force it'll take.

Oh, and I still need to finish up the connecting pieces for the internal foregrip, but I might trade for a new front gun shell first.

I'll try to get some pictures up for y'all when it's done.

[Thom]

I'll definitely finish the machining on Monday. I haven't had a chance thus far because I've never used the lathe and at this time in the semester, the shop staff is busy assisting students with actual work to do. Thankfully, the president of the UB chapter of ASME happens to be my roommate, and he's willing to help for sponsorship.

Brass for the block is probably a no-go. That leaves aluminum and delrin. Would JB-Weld on brass/aluminum be stronger than Zap-a-Gap on brass/delrin?

[Thom]

Lathed the back of the bolt. Took about two hours longer than I thought. Did y'all know that the plunger tube tapers at the front? I didn't. Still need to machine bolt block. Shouldn't take long.