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Just582's Content
There have been 31 items by Just582 (Search limited from 18-December 96)
#338930 TR-27 GRYPHON - CR-18 Rapidstrike Mod
Posted by
on 14 May 2014 - 12:50 AM
in
Modifications
#338655 Nerf Elite- Blue Paint
Posted by
on 04 May 2014 - 02:53 AM
in
Modifications
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#338213 Where can I find a write-up for this?
Posted by
on 13 April 2014 - 03:30 AM
in
Homemades
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#337877 Spring replacement for Nite-Finder
Posted by
on 30 March 2014 - 10:47 AM
in
Modifications
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#337875 What mods should I do on my Nerf elite aplha trooper cs 12
Posted by
on 30 March 2014 - 10:41 AM
in
General Nerf
#337874 Stefans for a Centurion
Posted by
on 30 March 2014 - 10:38 AM
in
Darts and Barrels
I've found that if you cut off the hollow part of the tips and leave a flat surface, the darts will be far more accurate at the cost of range. The range loss is probably cause the dart doesn't go into the breech as far, maybe a felt pad would work, but I haven't tried.
#337657 Homemade Plunger Head
Posted by
on 24 March 2014 - 11:27 PM
in
Homemades
I've never used Teflon lube wet or dry but any dry lube sounds terrible. Go get some super lube from ace hardware or some of omw's silicone grease and you might just be able to get the wood plunger head to work. Hope you figure something out that works for you.
#337622 Homemade Plunger Head
Posted by
on 23 March 2014 - 11:16 AM
in
Homemades
You would probably be better off using a washer sandwich, which is a 3/4" metal washer in front (actually, it only has to be less than 1 1/4", but I use 3/4" for the hole size in the middle), a 1 1/2" rubber washer in the middle, and a 1 1/4 metal washer in back and bolting that onto the plunger rod. I'm guessing you machined a groove in the wood, and unless you use a lathe, you probably won't get a very good seal, and the seal will probably be very frictiony, even with lube.
#337579 Questions about aaBows
Posted by
on 22 March 2014 - 10:21 AM
in
Homemades
Yeah, Aabows aren't worth that much, but if you want to sell a homemade, you could make something better, like a pumpsnap or rainbowpump. Aabows are kinda useless when compared to some other homemades. The only real advantage is the cool factor IMHO.
If you want to make one for yourself, cool, but if you want to make them to sell, not cool. The cost of everything put into them will likely outweigh the selling price, unless you are reputable builder like Ryan201821 who used to produce tons of plusbows, you won't make any money off it.
If you want to make one for yourself, cool, but if you want to make them to sell, not cool. The cost of everything put into them will likely outweigh the selling price, unless you are reputable builder like Ryan201821 who used to produce tons of plusbows, you won't make any money off it.
#337508 Terrible Tornado (photo heavy)
Posted by
on 16 March 2014 - 12:12 PM
in
Modifications
Nice job, very well done! One thing I noticed is that the pump is from an air max 6 not a panther. Don't try and use a panther pump, you will have to glue in tubing rather than use the little nuts on the air max 6 pump.
Also, you might want to remove that pink vinyl tubing on the pump, buzzbee tubing is very low quality and will give you problems
As for the 2k range problems, use a looser barrel fit! The air max 6 pump is not very ideal, and will give you low pressure. It is not a problem with the Titan coz there is so much air, but the low volume of the 2k you need a looser barrel.
Also, one other thing that really helps range 2ks is to expand the valve and turret opening. Cut off the thinner part of the stem and drill a 3/8 hole into the front of the tank while pulling back the firing pin. Drill a 3/8 hole into the back of the turret where the thin stem used to be. Put 17/32 brass over the nub on the turret, then put petg over the brass and remaining wide part of the stem to connect the tank to the turret. Hope that made sense...
Also, you might want to remove that pink vinyl tubing on the pump, buzzbee tubing is very low quality and will give you problems
As for the 2k range problems, use a looser barrel fit! The air max 6 pump is not very ideal, and will give you low pressure. It is not a problem with the Titan coz there is so much air, but the low volume of the 2k you need a looser barrel.
Also, one other thing that really helps range 2ks is to expand the valve and turret opening. Cut off the thinner part of the stem and drill a 3/8 hole into the front of the tank while pulling back the firing pin. Drill a 3/8 hole into the back of the turret where the thin stem used to be. Put 17/32 brass over the nub on the turret, then put petg over the brass and remaining wide part of the stem to connect the tank to the turret. Hope that made sense...
#337195 RSCB Stream Machine
Posted by
on 22 February 2014 - 11:43 AM
in
Modifications
Reminds me of a HAMP. I like this design a lot better though, cause it's more compact, looks very ergonomic, and probably performs just as well as HAMP. Might be a little more expensive than a HAMP, but I think it would be totally worth it. Nice first post, keep em coming.
#337054 Plusbow prototype
Posted by
on 15 February 2014 - 10:57 AM
in
Homemades
Like everybody else, I'm not a fan of the holes, especially in the priming slide thingy. The pump action grip looks really small, and the main handle looks odd. I am absolutely loving the stock, the bottom half and back looks almost like a real nerf crossbow. If you have a nerf crossbow, you should model your plusbow to look like and have the comfort of a real crossbow.
#336865 What's a good replacement?
Posted by
on 04 February 2014 - 11:20 PM
in
Modifications
I had an at4k tank that sounds like it had the same problem as your supermaxx 5k tank. The seal wasn't dislodged, but the pin and seal assembly refused to move forward after firing. I fixed it by applying silicone grease on the firing pin while it was pulled back and on the front sealing part. It's been working great for months now.
Just add lube, it sounds like the firing pin might be sticking.
Just add lube, it sounds like the firing pin might be sticking.
#336659 New to Nerf, looking for advice
Posted by
on 26 January 2014 - 05:40 PM
in
Modifications
Just so you know, these threads aren't allowed.
Strongarms don't have much modability besides spring replacing it and AR removal doesn't do much.
For best nerf rifles, I would say get any of the Elite plunger powered blasters (elite alpha trooper, retaliator, rampage) cause they are readily availible, along with replacement springs and parts. Longshots are pretty awesome too, but they are somewhat expensive, as well as parts and springs for it.
Edit: I second Silverhead.
Strongarms don't have much modability besides spring replacing it and AR removal doesn't do much.
For best nerf rifles, I would say get any of the Elite plunger powered blasters (elite alpha trooper, retaliator, rampage) cause they are readily availible, along with replacement springs and parts. Longshots are pretty awesome too, but they are somewhat expensive, as well as parts and springs for it.
Edit: I second Silverhead.
#336452 Nerf Roughcut Stripped Gear Fix
Posted by
on 11 January 2014 - 11:40 PM
in
Modifications
Am I the only one who noticed that this guys roughcut shell is white? He should tell us where he got it. 
On topic: this is going to make rough cuts a much more viable blaster for spring upgrades now. Hope the fix holds out for years to come!
On topic: this is going to make rough cuts a much more viable blaster for spring upgrades now. Hope the fix holds out for years to come!
#336438 Short Barreled AT2K
Posted by
on 10 January 2014 - 09:02 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
Rather than use a new barrel material, why not use the usual petg and don't plug the oprv?
#335931 InstaMorph Remoldable Plastic
Posted by
on 14 December 2013 - 12:40 PM
in
Homemades
I use a very similar thing called shapelock. I haven't used it for many load bearing applications though, but it seems pretty damn tough, not to mention that you can just use more plastic to make the part stronger. I use it in the airtech 3/4000 to keep the rotation mechs in place, and for holding components like tubing and tees. However, it cannot be used for parts that are detailed, unless you have a mold.
Even though it is supposed to be machinable, it's not. With the lowest speed on my scrollsaw (craftsman variable speed kind) it kinda melts. Not enough to reshape the part, but enough so that you have to make the cut two or three times.
Even though it is supposed to be machinable, it's not. With the lowest speed on my scrollsaw (craftsman variable speed kind) it kinda melts. Not enough to reshape the part, but enough so that you have to make the cut two or three times.
#335865 Airtech 4000 pump replacment
Posted by
on 08 December 2013 - 01:03 AM
in
Modifications
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#335854 Release of a New Type of Ammo??
Posted by
on 07 December 2013 - 08:15 PM
in
General Nerf
Anyone else see the possibilities of new blasters too? I mean, every type of ammo released by nerf was included in at least one blaster. If a child purchases a nerf blaster, the're likely to buy the same ammo it came with, so if no blasters included the suction elites, the darts wouldn't be worth hasbro's time and money to make. I guess we'll have to wait and see!
#335648 Stampede Catch Issues
Posted by
on 26 November 2013 - 07:08 PM
in
Modifications
All you need is a stronger catch spring. I don't know why it happens even though it functioned before, but I have seen this before and a stronger catch spring is a must for every modded stampede.
#335370 Best homemade for stock darts?
Posted by
on 13 November 2013 - 01:13 AM
in
Homemades
IMO, it is not even worth it to build a homemade for stock darts. It would be worth your while if you plan to use stefans later on, and you could switch to a "Stefan" barrel when you stop using a ported barrel for elites like carbon suggested. I think elite blasters with a omw 5kg spring or a nite finder with a omw 4kg are the best blasters for using stock darts. Modified blasters are much more comfortable and with modified elite blasters like the retaliator or EAT, are clip fed, fire faster, and are all around better than a homemade designed to shoot at lower speeds. A rainbow pistol might work with stock darts though. I have built two plusbows and three rainbowpumps, but I still prefer my modded retaliator in nearly any war.
#335314 Homemade air bladder
Posted by
on 10 November 2013 - 02:27 AM
in
Modifications
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#334947 Nerf Centurion - Streamline/elite conversion
Posted by
on 20 October 2013 - 10:24 PM
in
Modifications
To Hammy, Steampunkzombie, and anyone else who cares:
I don't think I will be doing a actual writeup, but it is really easy to do, cause you don't have to sand and glue the bolt to boltsled connector.
1. Unscrew original barrel
2. Chop off most of original bolt, down to about 1.5 inches I think it was. Make sure the original bolt doesn't protrude into the magwell
3. Sand out barrel stub to fit 1/2" pvc
4. Cut pvc flush with barrel stub
5. Screw barrel stub and pvc combo back in place
6. Use enough 17/32 brass to go from the tripronged piece in PT to end of magwell
7. Cut the 17/32 brass to length
8. Cut 9/16 brass from back of magwell to about halfway through the faux barrel
9. Cut a half pipe in brass from back of magwell to 1 inch away from the front of the magwell.
10. Use etape to secure 17/32 brass in pvc stub
11. Use various pieces of pvc and etape to secure 9/16 brass in faux barrel (don't use tightening rings or the dart won't fire)
I don't think I will be doing a actual writeup, but it is really easy to do, cause you don't have to sand and glue the bolt to boltsled connector.
1. Unscrew original barrel
2. Chop off most of original bolt, down to about 1.5 inches I think it was. Make sure the original bolt doesn't protrude into the magwell
3. Sand out barrel stub to fit 1/2" pvc
4. Cut pvc flush with barrel stub
5. Screw barrel stub and pvc combo back in place
6. Use enough 17/32 brass to go from the tripronged piece in PT to end of magwell
7. Cut the 17/32 brass to length
8. Cut 9/16 brass from back of magwell to about halfway through the faux barrel
9. Cut a half pipe in brass from back of magwell to 1 inch away from the front of the magwell.
10. Use etape to secure 17/32 brass in pvc stub
11. Use various pieces of pvc and etape to secure 9/16 brass in faux barrel (don't use tightening rings or the dart won't fire)
#334758 Nerf Centurion - Streamline/elite conversion
Posted by
on 13 October 2013 - 06:53 PM
in
Modifications
Feels solid, I doubt it would break. There's next to no stress on it, only the return spring which is pretty weak.
Actually, the entire force of the mainspring is on the bolt, as the gear system pushes that bolt piece forward then is held forward by that weird catch near the jam door. I still doubt it would break though.
On another note: I completed an angel breech on my centurion one month ago, but am still considering if I should post a write up cause it was so simple. If enough people want me to I will post a writeup. I combined this with plugging the slots by opening the plunger tube, and it is quote powerful. Somewhere between a stock breech modded longshot and a brass breeched longshot. I would guess it hits about 150 fps right now, as I haven't been able to test yet.
#334747 Any one intrested in 3D printed parts
Posted by
on 13 October 2013 - 12:52 PM
in
Homemades
I think that if you wanted to sell any 3d printed stuff that requires a seal, you should look into vapor polishing. Blasterparts.de sells a 3d printed centurion kit with a new barrel and mag adaptor that I think are vapor polished to make the seal with the dart. Just figure out a way to make a smooth surface like vapor polishing, or as you already mentioned, smash brass in the barrels, to get that seal.
#334346 Centurion internal measurements!
Posted by
on 29 September 2013 - 10:40 PM
in
General Nerf
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#334331 Centurion internal measurements!
Posted by
on 29 September 2013 - 02:33 PM
in
General Nerf
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#334115 Dart reccomendations for Remedy Metals kit.
Posted by
on 18 September 2013 - 06:17 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
I haven't tried it yet, but try ordering from this place, I think they're a branch of Xplorer Blaster Parts:
http://www.survivorfbu.com/
Yes, they are a part of Xplorer Blaster Developments, so the dart tips and foam at the survivor fbu and xplorer websites are most likely the exact same, just different quantities.
I personally use(d) pak d stefans, which work incredibly well with their 12 dart clip. I would recommend the full length darts for you, but pak d seems to have gone missing multiple months ago, hence use(d). My friend has a couple of the xplorer darts, but I haven't been able to use them firsthand yet. I have a order from xplorer which includes their darts, and I am assuming they are very similar to pak d darts. If you want, PM me around late October and I should have them and be able to tell you about how well they work in the RM kit.
#334015 new style RainbowPump Writeup
Posted by
on 14 September 2013 - 08:55 PM
in
Homemades
First off, really love this design. The only thing I think was forgotten was how long to cut the delrin plunger rod. I could probably figure it out, but I think it would be helpful so others don't have to go through trial and error. It is one of the best write ups I have seen anywhere, an entire parts list was given, templates and helpful links were given. Great job on this and I can't wait for what you will do next.
#333622 Centurion internal measurements!
Posted by
on 01 September 2013 - 08:10 PM
in
General Nerf
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#332849 3D printed Rainbow catches!
Posted by
on 10 August 2013 - 12:49 AM
in
Homemades
So, I have have access to a 30 thousand dollar 3d printer through my school. Most of the designing for the catch is done, but my computer can't render the final touches, so I can't show the rendering of it right now. (My computer runs the minecraft demo version at about 5 frames per second), so I have sent the program to my friend to render it for me. He will send me the image soon and I should be able to show you guys. (His computer can run minecraft with mods at 350+ frames per second. It's crazy fast.) The dimensions are slightly oversized so I can sand everything smooth cause 3d printers have a funky finish that I don't really like. It will also have a spring guide to keep the edges of the spring from getting inbetween the plunger rod and the plunger rod guide. It also has holes already positioned for drilling. The holes are a little bit smaller than a 7/64 bit so you can tap the holes nicely. I will be finalizing the design and getting the renders up in a day or two and should have prototypes in a week and a half. If anyone is interested, I might post a few on eBay.
