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#266533 Help With Night Finder

Posted by Blue on 22 February 2010 - 11:55 PM in Modifications

If a nitefinder is seriously too expensive for you to mod I doubt you can afford to get the basic tools and materials to complete the mod. CPVC or Brass is $4 or so for the minimum amount, and springs are also around $4 for the minimum pack.



#200432 Nitefinder Bands

Posted by Blue on 02 January 2009 - 01:35 AM in Modifications

If you put bands on the gun, the plastic will be stressed. When there's just a spring, all the tension is on the plungerhead and the screw, but when you add bands the plunger rod normally bends on way or another, and will eventually get deformed if you have strong enough bands and leave them on long enough. You should be fine if you remove the bands after your done using it or you could do this



#315422 supermaxx 750 leaks?

Posted by Blue on 08 May 2012 - 07:25 PM in Modifications

Hello, sounds like the Sm750 I sold Sale. I don't recall any leaking issues, but the seal in the pump is messed up as I noted. If I had to guess, I would say that it was overpumped or that the check valve is shot seeing as it worked for two days after it was received. I didn't mod the blaster, so I can't tell you what it looks like inside. However, because the internals are basically all one piece, you can easily leak test the internals by just opening the blaster and putting it under water after pressurizing it. I suggest that you take photos of any bubbles you see then cover them in super glue or some other sealant. If the check valve is shot it will have bubbles coming out of the pump tube, this is a much harder problem to fix.


And just a disclaimer since I have not gotten feedback yet, I sold the blaster AS IS and I am not responsible for any damage done after the post office delivers the item or if in your attempts to repair the blaster you end up damaging it further. Please pm me here or on ebay if you have any questions, I appreciate your business. Thanks!



#209052 Double Nf Enhancment

Posted by Blue on 02 February 2009 - 09:05 PM in Modifications

Photobucket is the best, and it's free. I wish all the imageshack people would switch to photobucket.



#278905 Have You Heard Of This

Posted by Blue on 28 June 2010 - 04:31 PM in General Nerf

Search the Nerf Product Awareness thread and you will find several mentionings of it. The gun uses fly wheels and specialty darts, it is not useful at all unless you are just going for looks.



#316379 Lazer Tag Clubs

Posted by Blue on 31 May 2012 - 10:43 PM in Off Topic

Link

That list may help you, I don't know. I know the yahoo group is active as of about a year and a half ago.



#336633 Modding the AT3k

Posted by Blue on 24 January 2014 - 09:46 PM in General Nerf

1) Any small bike pump or smaller diameter longer nerf pump (Magstrike, RF20, Hornet). Google it. You aren't the only one disgusted by the stock pump.
2) No. I've torn apart many AT3K's for people who replaced other tanks with 3k tanks.
3) Depends on how much pressure you intend to put in it. The goo gauge is a thin rubber sheet sealing colored mineral oil in the plastic tank. If you are really into the gauge you can probably replace it with a thicker sheet of rubber and see how it does (maybe even just a cut up piece of a punchbag balloon.) Not a big deal if you burst the gauge in terms of the rest of the blaster's functionality. Will just have blue oil squirting out of your blaster for awhile.



#337081 New here from Tucson AZ, hoping to learn to fix/upgrade foam dart guns

Posted by Blue on 16 February 2014 - 11:03 AM in General Nerf

In regards to fixing your brass barrels: Use a dremel sanding cone or some other large sanding bit that fits inside your barrel and lightly sand the edges of the lip (try not to go on the inside of the barrel, not too big of a deal if you do... after all this is a tek3) Once you get that down to mostly flush, go in with your needle nose pliers. Stick the tip down the barrel and quickly start twisting and it will pop the brass out on the edges. Sanding is done before this so that you don't smoosh the brass lip to the inside of the barrel. Post pics too if you want to get more help.



#214766 Larami Darts

Posted by Blue on 24 February 2009 - 08:31 PM in General Nerf

I have a few Larami darts from my 2 supermaxx guns, but was wondering... Did they ever sell refill packs? I don't remember ever seeing any in stores.


Yes, they did. Came in an eight pack arranged in a circle in a plastic case thing.



#180279 I Just Noticed This Yesterdy

Posted by Blue on 28 September 2008 - 07:19 PM in General Nerf

Groove's look way better. Who wants nerf Sweatbands anyways?



#264917 Re-barreled Lightning Blitz

Posted by Blue on 10 February 2010 - 11:15 AM in Modifications

I'm not sure if this is anything like the ss2, but maybe adding a check valve between the pump and the tanks would allow for greater pressure. Not sure though. Also, make sure you aren't messy with the plugging, that will dislodge the check valve if there is one down there.



#201580 Defective Vulcan

Posted by Blue on 06 January 2009 - 10:49 PM in General Nerf

Why do you feel the need to post such a topic? I mean, like nerfer9 said, you could easily return it and get another one. Even if someone did magically know your exact problem, what are the odds of you actually being able to find the solution and make the repair?



#224330 Ncno 2/ Recap Thread

Posted by Blue on 19 April 2009 - 01:45 AM in Nerf Wars

Highlights
+getting lots of guns
+meeting CaliforniaPants
+playing some rounds
+selling for lots of cash

Lowlights
-An open field gets kind of boring after awhile... too much running
-Sun and Heat
-Kids were annoying
-Long hot drives
-I don't have my AT2K tank anymore, if you have it let me know.

All in all, I think this was a great war to attend.



#222119 Ncno 2/ Recap Thread

Posted by Blue on 07 April 2009 - 12:15 AM in Nerf Wars

I might come. The 11th would also work much better for me too.



#336167 Why not stock barrel

Posted by Blue on 30 December 2013 - 04:28 PM in Darts and Barrels

Seems like you are just starting out. The first thing you should do is head out to your local hardware store and get a 10' section of CPVC ($4) and a couple CPVC couplers or endcaps (endcaps are sometimes easier to use... drill through the center and you got yourself a deadspace free coupler) ($.4 a piece.) You can get MD or frost king foam at your local home depot for around $4 for 20' which will get you well over 100 1.5" darts even accounting for mishaps or squished foam. Pick up some copperhead bb's (bring an 18+ year old for this) at walmart and hopefully you have hotglue and a hair dryer at home already. You can ignore anyone who talks about springer or airgun fit as you can use CPVC for everything.

The new Elite line probably changed this, but if you have an earlier blaster like a Nite Finder or Maverick you should take a look at the barrels closely. Only the bottom inch or less of the barrel forms a tight fit. That's why your foam is loose. There are also almost always air release holes in the stock barrel. In addition, even if the barrels were uniformly tight, the length is often too short to take advantage of the power... the dart will leave the barrel before the air behind it can propel it to it's "best." What blaster are you talking about in your post?



#255663 What Type Of Tubing Will Fit 13mm Fbr? *resolved!*

Posted by Blue on 07 November 2009 - 11:49 PM in General Nerf

Just take your foam to different stores and check the fit in various barrel materials. It's as easy as that.


If you have a Tap plastics around you, you may want to check out all their different sizes of acrylic since that is much cheaper than brass, but brass is much more diverse in it's sizes.



#202017 Sf Help

Posted by Blue on 09 January 2009 - 12:08 AM in General Nerf

http://nerfhaven.com...17



#172023 5 Minute Tech Shot Mod

Posted by Blue on 24 August 2008 - 12:41 PM in Modifications

Cool. Are the darts bigger than Micros?



#242908 Norcal Sof Replacement War

Posted by Blue on 20 July 2009 - 07:38 PM in Nerf Wars

Pescadero park? The same place that was just an empty field and tons of little kids who wanted to use our blasters?



#321013 Lanard Scatterblast problems

Posted by Blue on 25 August 2012 - 06:31 PM in General Nerf

If you bought it NIB from a retail place, you can always return it.



#262847 At3k Turret Help

Posted by Blue on 23 January 2010 - 08:34 PM in Modifications

So, I'm almost finished overhauling my 3K, and I find that the screw hole on the back of the turret rod seems to be stripped. The screw for it just slides right through, which is a big problem since it holds the rotation mechanism together. Now, I could just glue it in, but I like to be able to take it back apart just in case it fucks up, which, seeing as this is my last unmodified 3K, would be very, very bad. Does anybody know how I could fix this?
Thanks,
Salmon


Not sure if this will work for metal, but when I have a screwport stripped on something plastic I have used the larger, old school nerf screws with success.



#311803 Minnesota Brass Retailers.

Posted by Blue on 24 February 2012 - 11:21 PM in Modifications

You took a contract for a complicated mod that you have never done before AND you don't even have the materials for it? You should probably just bag the project now.



#336725 Broken Mav

Posted by Blue on 28 January 2014 - 10:41 PM in General Nerf

You should be able to get a replacement maverick catch for around a buck shipped if you choose that route. In the mean time, you can do an immediate fix with superglue. For long term I would look into dremeling/drilling a little slot crossing the crack and supergluing a piece of paper clip (or maybe coat hanger if you want to be really thorough, not sure if that would make the remaining plastic too weak to fit it) in there. I'm not sure how tight the specifications are but you might have issues with the catch moving up and down like it's supposed to if you use epoxy and it's very easy to apply too much.



#255662 Wtb: Replacement Plunger Heads...

Posted by Blue on 07 November 2009 - 11:39 PM in Modifications

Drac, if you end up getting the lnl and dt3 plunger head replacements made, I would pay a buck or so each for some after Kid Flash.



#249455 Blastfire Versions

Posted by Blue on 02 September 2009 - 09:42 PM in General Nerf

Much easier way to tell is to see if there's a "stamp" in the plastic saying Dx500. If it doesn't, it's old style, if it does, it's new. But it's best to do what snake said anyways, because if you do there's no risk.



#222655 Lock And Load Keyring Replacement

Posted by Blue on 09 April 2009 - 04:08 PM in Modifications

I didn't like the feel of a keyring so I decided to replace it with E-Tape.

Step one: Take a strip of E-Tape and fold it into thirds so the sticky side is on the inside
Posted Image

Step two: Tie it into a knot as shown, don't know what it's called, but the first step in tying your shoe
Posted Image

Step three: Put the side with the actual knot in the groove of the cocking mech, then try to balance out the sides of the tape so that they are equal. Undo the tape at the ends as far as the knot, then put them on top of ach other and fold into thirds again. When you're done, it should look like this:
Posted Image

It has held great up with a chainblazer spring, and feels much nicer because it sort of stretches when you cock the gun. Also, the force of the spring against the E-Tape tightens the knot, so there is no way for this to fall off. I know this may seem stupid to some of you, but I can't figure out why no one else has done any thing other than keyrings for LNL's.



#222673 Lock And Load Keyring Replacement

Posted by Blue on 09 April 2009 - 05:25 PM in Modifications

The tape is triple reinforced throughout, and there are 6 layers where you pull it. The knot is also quite strong as well. I imagine that if I heavily banded the gun it would break, but I have cocked the gun over 100 times since doing this and it seems fine.



#204898 Cpvc Barrel Quickstrike

Posted by Blue on 19 January 2009 - 10:46 PM in Modifications

Bump

I'm kind of looking for some criticism here. I made this writeup so I could get some points on making my write ups better. Thank you.


Okay then, all your pictures look the same to me. All you really had to say was: cut pegs off (Pic 1), wrap tape until barrel of choice is snug (pic 3), and glue barrels on (pic 9).



#172901 One More Easy Ls Ar Removal

Posted by Blue on 27 August 2008 - 05:15 PM in Modifications

Many of you have probably seen my Longshot Ar Removal Problems. Well I was looking for the easiest way to take out the AR. And I got it.
Main AR Removal (Courtesy of RedStorm)
1 First take out the spring.
2 Then take your pliers and twist each of the bar where the spring was.
3 Next, shake the plunger If the main air resistor does not fall out repeat step two
Peg Removal ( Courtesy of CaptainSlug)
1 Get a mallet ( or hammer) and a exacto-knife
2 Insert the exacto-knife on the bar (not peg)
3 Hit knife with mallet. Repeat
4 Shake

Side Notes
1 I do not take credit for mods.
2 I take credit for compiling both mods together.
2 I have not fired the gun (Must let next coat of paint dry) yet so I do not know what will happen so wait for ranges before attempting.
4 I did not take pictures but I will when I get my next longshot.


So you just put two peoples mods together for people that are "too lazy" to look at other mods? Kind of like how you can do pennies, roulette, slider bar repair, or removable turret on a mav?



#193877 Quick Q

Posted by Blue on 03 December 2008 - 09:55 PM in General Nerf

Shut up and delete the content of that post, you fuck. I was going after that.


AJ.Z told me to delete my post, so I did.



#206494 Big Salvo Problems

Posted by Blue on 26 January 2009 - 12:02 AM in Modifications

If you haven't already solved your problem, try Mineral oil. I've never used it on an air gun myself, but it's awesome with spring guns and I've heard of good results with airguns. Plus it's cheaper than silicone lube, and it pours out of a bottle so you can easily drown whatever leaky parts you have to maximize the odds of fixing it. Hope this helps.



#215343 New Ncno Topic/recap Thread!

Posted by Blue on 27 February 2009 - 02:15 PM in Nerf Wars

Due to the serious lack of people coming, and a two hour drive, I don't think I'm going to be going. Sorry.



#216652 A Few Bbb Questions

Posted by Blue on 06 March 2009 - 05:59 PM in General Nerf

I also have a question, can you glue the orange cap piece (where the barrel is) to the plunger piece? On mine it is very wiggly, so accuracy is next to none.



#202432 Vulcan Question

Posted by Blue on 10 January 2009 - 06:43 PM in General Nerf

"Stefans" are not all the same size, there are tons of different types of foam. If you are using blacksunshine stefans, they fit pretty much perfectly in Ar removed with stock barrel guns.



#289254 Warthog Help

Posted by Blue on 28 November 2010 - 03:55 PM in Modifications

The warthog is an extremely weak blaster, don't try to change the spring or the tiny rest will most likely snap. You can reinforce it with aluminum sheet.



#196825 Titan Pvc Problems

Posted by Blue on 17 December 2008 - 06:30 PM in Modifications

The wermp thing happened to me with my bbbb and pvc. I solved the problem by getting a piece of slightly wider acrylic tubing from tap plastics.



#194927 Time To Get In The Spirit (2008)

Posted by Blue on 09 December 2008 - 01:52 AM in Off Topic

That first tree you showed is very skinny,


I like it. The lights look nice.



#199069 Nerf?

Posted by Blue on 26 December 2008 - 09:30 PM in General Nerf

Are you seriously saying you use a real bow with real arrows to shoot at people? Putting foam on the end would do almost nothing to stop the wood from piercing the skin, and would probably make the arrows terribly inaccurate, which is just as dangerous if not more.



#199144 My Trip To Goodwill

Posted by Blue on 27 December 2008 - 04:06 AM in Off Topic

Posted Image

5.99 half off. 2.99 for a NIB Splitfire.

Post whatever, just no "why the just about everyday I find (insert rare blasters here)"

Edit: More Pics

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#312889 SM3k problem

Posted by Blue on 15 March 2012 - 12:12 PM in Modifications

If it's not an issue with the tank, I would check the trigger for stress marks (if it flexes when pulling the pin that would explain why it doesn't fire sometimes), check the tubing for kinks (Especially if you leave the OPRV in, a kink can make the pressure high enough to stop any air from getting to the tank), and possibly the cam placement. Try functioning the blaster with only half a shell to try and see what's going on.