A big thanks to the mods who worked to put this together, and congratulations to Carbon on his promotion.

I do it outside with a mask on.

I just know somebody is going to sig that.


Good ventilation and a filter mask will protect you from the dangers of PVC dust inhalation - and in fact is a good precaution whenever you are dealing with cutting/sanding/drilling/anything else that creates a lot of particulate matter (dust).

If I recall correctly, the draw length for the front gun is shorter than the draw length for the main gun - meaning you would have to do some serious engineering to get both blasters to cock from the same priming motion.

Here are the writeups for the games as they appear in my War Thread for Foam in the Fort II. This should at least give everyone a good base line for discussion.



Sieze the Balls

Teams: 2 or more (generally at least 3)

Setup: Each team is given a "base" location consisting of a bucket filled with a number of balls (3 or more), as well as a designated "spawn point" (which should be at least 20-30 yards behind their "base" locations). Players start at their designated "spawn point".

Respawn: Unlimited, 15-count at designated "spawn point"

Objectives: Take balls from your opponent's buckets and return them to your own bucket. The team with the most balls in their bucket when the time is up wins. Balls not in buckets when time is called do not count towards any team.

Special Rules: A player may only carry a single ball at any given time. If a player is hit while carrying a ball, they must drop the ball where they were hit before returning to their "spawn point".



Team Powerball
(Adapted from multiple sources.)

Teams: 2

Setup: Each team is given a "base" location consisting of 3 buckets spread out 20-40 yards apart, roughly parallel to the opposing team's buckets. (The center bucket on each side should be a bit further back than two outside buckets.) Each team is also given a designated "spawn point" which whould be 20-30 yards behind the "base" location. Finally, each team is given 8 balls of their team color (red or blue, or similarly contrasting colors) and 4 white balls (the "Powerballs"). These are placed at the team's designated "spawn point" at the start of the game.

Respawn: Unlimited, 15-count at designated "spawn point".

Objectives: Take your balls to your opponent's "base" and get them into one of their buckets. Any balls in a team's buckets when the time is called score points for the opposing team. The two outside buckets are worth 1 point each, the center bucket is worth 3 points. A "Powerball" in a bucket is worth double the normal points (so 2 or 6). Balls not in a bucket when time is called are worth no points. The team with the most points wins.

Special Rules: A player may only carry one ball at a time, and they may only carry balls of their team's color or "Powerballs". No player may intentionally touch, pick up, block or otherwise disturb a ball of the opposing team's color at any time. When a player is hit while carrying a ball, they must drop that ball where they were shot before returning to their "spawn point". (The ball may not be dropped into a bucket after a player has been hit.) Any player may touch, pick up, carry, block, etc. a "Powerball" at any time, except that you may not attempt to strip a "Powerball" from the hands of another player. Once a ball, whether it be a normal ball or a "Powerball", has been placed in a bucket, it may not be removed by either team.

Variants: One player per team may be designated a "Goalkeeper". The "Goalkeeper" is armed with either a melee weapon or a single shot blaster that shoots less than 50 feet (but not both). The "Goalkeeper" must remain on his team's side of the field (i.e. may not cross the "center line"). The "Goalkeeper" is invulnerable - i.e. he may not be eliminated by either shooting or melee hits. (Optional - the "Goalkeeper" may be "stunned" for a 5-count by shooting and/or melee hits - which means he cannot move or shoot/swing melee.) Unlike other players, the "Goalkeeper" may touch the opposing team's balls - but only to attempt to block a thrown ball or to quickly throw a ball back towards the opposing team's side. (The "Goalkeeper" may not hold an opposing team's ball for more than a 3-count before he must throw it away, and all throws must be directed toward the opposing team's side - no throwing it behind your own team's buckets.)

GAMETYPE RULES AND VARIATIONS

These will be explained in detail as needed at the war, but for any of you who may be interested in the rules for the various gametypes we will probably be playing, here they are. (Other Than Strategic Assault, I did not create any of these game types, though some of them may have been subtly altered from incarnations found at other sources.) All of these rules are subject to change at the whim of the hosts and the players present - we will do whatever we feel makes for the most fun and exciting rounds! (Respawn count-times are especially variable - they may be made longer or shorter depending on the pace we want to set for the games.)

If anything is unclear - please feel free to ask questions. If anything is wrong - well, I'll just take my ball and go home! (Just kidding of course - point out my egregous errors so that I may bow to your obviously superior knowledge of Nerf!)


Format

Teams: The number of teams required/allowed by the game type

Setup: How the field is set up, where teams start, and any special areas or equipment that will be used for the game type.

Respawn: How many "lives" each player has, and how they go about returning to active play.

Objectives: The goals which the teams work towards. This may be the same or different for each team.

Special Rules: Any unusual rules specific to this game type.

Variants: Any specialised variant rules for a game type which change the objectives, setup, etc. These may or may not be used, in part or in whole.



Meatgrinder

Teams: 2 or more

Setup: Teams begin play at their designated "spawn point" (1 per team), which should be spread out evenly around the play area. Nothing else is needed.

Respawn: Unlimited, 15-count at designated "spawn point"

Objectives: Have fun and get warmed up for future rounds. (There is no true objective in Meat Grinder.)

Special Rules: None



Capture the Flag

Teams: 2

Setup: Each team is given a "base" where their flag is kept, as well as one or more designated "spawn points" (which should be at least 20-30 yards away from their "base" locations). Players begin play in their "base".

Respawn: Unlimited, 15-count at designated "spawn point"

Objectives: Take your opponent's flag from their base and return it to your base without being tagged. The first team to return the enemy's flag to their base wins.

Special Rules: If a player is carrying the flag and they are hit, they must drop the flag where they were hit before heading for their "spawn point". A player form either team may then pick up the flag. If a player from the owning team picks up the flag, they must attempt to return it to their base as quickly as practical, (No running around in the backfield with your own flag.)

Variants: It may be declared that both flags must be at your base in order to win. In this case, players are always required to move any flag they are carrying towards their base as quickly as practical. It may also be declared that a player carrying the flag may not use their blaster while carrying it. (Melee weapons may be used as normal.) It is also possible that the flag may be a melee weapon, and the only melee weapon allowed in the game.



Sieze the Balls

Teams: 2 or more (generally at least 3)

Setup: Each team is given a "base" location consisting of a bucket filled with a number of balls (3 or more), as well as a designated "spawn point" (which should be at least 20-30 yards behind their "base" locations). Players start at their designated "spawn point".

Respawn: Unlimited, 15-count at designated "spawn point"

Objectives: Take balls from your opponent's buckets and return them to your own bucket. The team with the most balls in their bucket when the time is up wins. Balls not in buckets when time is called do not count towards any team.

Special Rules: A player may only carry a single ball at any given time. If a player is hit while carrying a ball, they must drop the ball where they were hit before returning to their "spawn point".



Team Powerball
(Adapted from multiple sources.)

Teams: 2

Setup: Each team is given a "base" location consisting of 3 buckets spread out 20-40 yards apart, roughly parallel to the opposing team's buckets. (The center bucket on each side should be a bit further back than two outside buckets.) Each team is also given a designated "spawn point" which whould be 20-30 yards behind the "base" location. Finally, each team is given 8 balls of their team color (red or blue, or similarly contrasting colors) and 4 white balls (the "Powerballs"). These are placed at the team's designated "spawn point" at the start of the game.

Respawn: Unlimited, 15-count at designated "spawn point".

Objectives: Take your balls to your opponent's "base" and get them into one of their buckets. Any balls in a team's buckets when the time is called score points for the opposing team. The two outside buckets are worth 1 point each, the center bucket is worth 3 points. A "Powerball" in a bucket is worth double the normal points (so 2 or 6). Balls not in a bucket when time is called are worth no points. The team with the most points wins.

Special Rules: A player may only carry one ball at a time, and they may only carry balls of their team's color or "Powerballs". No player may intentionally touch, pick up, block or otherwise disturb a ball of the opposing team's color at any time. When a player is hit while carrying a ball, they must drop that ball where they were shot before returning to their "spawn point". (The ball may not be dropped into a bucket after a player has been hit.) Any player may touch, pick up, carry, block, etc. a "Powerball" at any time, except that you may not attempt to strip a "Powerball" from the hands of another player. Once a ball, whether it be a normal ball or a "Powerball", has been placed in a bucket, it may not be removed by either team.

Variants: One player per team may be designated a "Goalkeeper". The "Goalkeeper" is armed with either a melee weapon or a single shot blaster that shoots less than 50 feet (but not both). The "Goalkeeper" must remain on his team's side of the field (i.e. may not cross the "center line"). The "Goalkeeper" is invulnerable - i.e. he may not be eliminated by either shooting or melee hits. (Optional - the "Goalkeeper" may be "stunned" for a 5-count by shooting and/or melee hits - which means he cannot move or shoot/swing melee.) Unlike other players, the "Goalkeeper" may touch the opposing team's balls - but only to attempt to block a thrown ball or to quickly throw a ball back towards the opposing team's side. (The "Goalkeeper" may not hold an opposing team's ball for more than a 3-count before he must throw it away, and all throws must be directed toward the opposing team's side - no throwing it behind your own team's buckets.)



Defend the Core

Teams: 2

Setup: Each team is given a "base" location with a "core" - a large container with a receptacle for darts/arrows/missles/nerf balls/etc to be fired into. Each team is also given a designated "spawn point" which should be 20-30 yards behind their "core".

Respawn: Unlimited, 15-count

Objectives: Put as many darts/arrows/missiles/balls/etc into the opposing team's "core" as possible within the time limit. Each "hit" on the core - i.e each dart or other projectile put into the "core" - counts as 1 point. The team with the most points when time is called wins.

Special Rules: None

Variants: Scoring can be adjusted by allowing larger projectiles, which are generally shorter ranged/less accurate/otherwise harder to get into the core, to be worth more points. For example - all arrows/missles/nerf balls could be worth 5 points. There could also be 1 or more "bombs" placed in the middle of the playing field. (i.e. a colored ball - a player carrying it may not shoot/melee, and must drop it immediately if hit.) The ball may not be thrown, it may only be dropped into the "core" when the carrier can touch the "core" with both hands. These bombs could be worth additional points - i.e. 5 or even 10.



Infection

Teams: 1 or more "Zombies" (each armed with a single melee weapon only), everyone else is a "Human" (each armed with whatever weapons are allowed). Zombies should be designated by wearing a clearly visible loop of flagging tape around their neck/head/arm/etc.

(For games with 10 or more players, starting with 2-3 "Zombies" can keep the game from getting off to a slow start)

Setup: The "Humans" scatter throughout the playing area, while the "Zombies" remain in the center of the playing area at a designated "Zombie Spawn" location. (The "Zombie Spawn" location should have an ample supply of melee weapons and flagging tape.)

Respawn: When a "Human" is tagged out by a "Zombie", they are "Infected" and turned into a "Zombie". The new "Zombie" must go to the "Zombie Spawn" location and drop all weapons they are carrying and arm themselves with a single melee weapon instead. They must also acquire a flagging tape loop as described above.

When a "Zombie" is tagged out by a "Human", they should sit/kneel down and begin a 15-count. During this time the "Zombie" may not move or attack. When the 15-count is reached, they may become active again.

Objectives: The "Humans" must try to survive until time is called. The "Zombies" must try to "Infect" as many humans as possible. The only winners are the surviving "Humans" when time is called.

Special Rules: None

Variants: If, during their 15-count, a "Human" gently taps a "Zombie" with a melee weapon, the "Zombie" must stop their count and move to the "Zombie Spawn" location. Once there, they may resume their count. Once they reach 15, they may become active again. It may be declared that some/all "Zombies" may only walk. (i.e. only starting "Zombies" may run, or only non-starting "Zombies" may run, etc.)

When:

Saturday, September 22nd, 2012
10:00 am until we are beat (probably around 5:00-6:00 pm)

Please try to arrive a bit early (~9:45) so that the first round can start promptly at 10:00 am.



Where:

Glenwood Park Elementary School in Fort Wayne, IN



This is simply an awesome location for a war! As you can see in the above image, there are lots of trees to use for cover, but spread out enough to allow for lots of room to maneuver. There are also two different playground areas that might also be usable for CTF or other objective games - I don't have any shots of them yet though.



What to bring:

- A Primary (more than one is a good idea - in case you have breakage!)

- Darts (#6 slugs or stock ammo only) (If you are making or buying slugs, they should be made using the guidelines provided by Ryan201821.)

EDIT: Since the attendance for this war looks to be a bit smaller than last time, I am going to try something. Darts that weigh roughly the same as a #6 slug and still maintain a felt tip will be accepted for use provided you allow me to inspect them for safety and let me test fire them on you and have you return the favor. Keep the weight in mind though - I don't want slingshot weighted darts popping up please.

Please do not count on these darts as your sole source though - if they are deemed unsafe for any reason, you will not be allowed to use them. Think of this more as a way to war-test darts that you have already tested a bit at home for safety and practicality.

- Eye protection - anyone under 18 MUST wear it. 18+ at your discretion, though it is still strongly recommended and at your own risk.

- Lunch / Money - There are lots of fast food places within a 10 minute drive. You are of course welcome to bring a bag lunch and eat on the field during the lunch break.

- Water

- Proper clothing - Dress for the weather. Also, don't be a moron and show up in camo unless it is neon pink or something.

- Any and all missle/rocket/ball shooting weapons you might have access to. You might find they come in handy during some of the game-types, and they are always useful for breaking shields.

- Melee weapons and shields will be permitted - see below...



What not to bring:

- Dangerous blasters/darts/etc - i.e. no metal spikes, wooden "gunblades", etc. Blasters will be banned if they are deemed unsafe for any reason, including firing way too hard. No blanket bans will be imposed, but it is unlikely that your singled Titan will be used unless it is fairly underpowered. (No, "I will only pump it X times" will not be acceptable!)

- Blasters or other gear that could be mistaken for actual weapons (i.e. black-painted blasters, silver "knives", etc.). These should definitely be left at home.

- Participants under 13 years old are welcome, but MUST be accompanied by a parent or a responsible adult (18+) who will assume full responsibility for the youngling's actions, attitude and safety. I will only assume responsibility for younglings that I personally bring. NO EXCEPTIONS.



Miscellaneous Information:

- We don't do "barrel tapping". Don't shoot someone from five feet away with your high-powered primary though. If you have a melee weapon, use that. If you have a weaker side-arm, use that.

- Beyond that, we do allow you a "mercy shot" if you are very close - fire your primary into the ground near the feet of your target and tell them they are "out". (Judgement and the honor system are needed here.)

- If you act like a 3-year-old, we'll send you home like a 3-year-old.

- Please clean up after yourselves - a trash bag will be provided, and everyone is expected to participate in dart-sweeps.

- Please note that there are no restrooms at the war site. Go before you get there, and go during lunch. You have been warned!

- Please keep the loud outbursts and swearing to a minimum - we will be playing in a schoolyard with nearby residential areas and don't need any residents or passers-by to have reason to complain about us.

- We will break for lunch some time around 12:00 or a bit later, probably for 30-45 minutes.

- I have not set up a specific game schedule. Gametypes will be determined mainly by popular opinion - but we will likely be playing mostly objective-type games (CTF, Sieze the Balls, etc). Meatgrinder will most likely be used as the first round and the post-lunch round - it is just a great way to get warmed up! I have the gear for the following objective games:

Sieze the Balls
Capture the Flag
Team Powerball
Defend the Core
Infection
Melee-only rounds

(Details for these gametypes can be found later in this thread.)



Melee & Shield Rules

Melee weapons will be allowed, though they should conform to a few basic rules.

- No metal should be used in the construction of the Melee weapon.

- All striking surfaces should be covered with a sufficiently thick layer of foam.

- Unmodified, store-bought plastic toy lightsabers will be permitted without regard to the above two rules. Lightsabers are cool. Bonus points if you use them with batteries for that lovely hum & glow. (Polycarb-bladed "Force FX" sabers are not included in this - those blades are HARD!)

- Anything I deem ridiculous or dangerous will not be allowed.

- Melee weapons can be used for blocking darts just like shields (see below) - but only if they are in your hand. If your Melee weapon is holstered, a hit on it counts just like a gun hit.



You'll be limited on the maximum size of your shield depending on what blaster you're wielding. This will be the standard ruling for most gametypes. Here is the breakdown. (Your most powerful blaster is what counts here.)

Melee Only = 3 sq/ft
[The largest blocking face of the Melee weapon(s) counts as part of the maximum shield area.]

One Single shot pistol, ranges < 50' - 2 sq/ft

Anything else, ranges <50' - 1 sq/ft

Blasters shooting over 50' will not be allowed to use a shield.

Shields may be used to deflect darts - hits on shields do not count as long as the shield is in your hand, strapped to a blaster that is in your hand, or strapped to your forearm. A shield strapped/slung anywhere else will not block hits - it will count the same as a gun hit.

Balls, missiles, rockets, etc. (basically any ammo larger than a Mega dart) may not be blocked by shields or Melee weapons - a hit on a shield or Melee weapon with ammo of this type will count as a normal hit.

Shields can be made from whatever, cardboard should be reinforced with duct tape. Shields that do not meet the specifications for Melee weapons may not be used as such. (i.e. Don't go whacking people with a large wooden shield!) Shields that are deemd unsafe for any reason will be disallowed.



Attendees:
Ambience 327 (host) + Guests
DarkMatter
DragonSnipe +1
Phoenix66+Guests
ck32+2-4?

Possibilities:
cheerios
MrPzowned +1
Demon Lord

Why do I get the feeling that the chances of you showing up are somewhat higher for having said that...?

I have found that darts twisted into the size barrel you are using, and then left there for a while, will permanently shrink a bit. Might be enough for your purposes.

Just an FYI - we are still a go unless there is lightning or pouring rain.

Great war, in spite of the weather and the army of...shall we say..."adoring fans". I couldn't help feel bad turning all those little guys away, but they were WAY younger than I was comfortable with allowing for walk-ons, and we really weren't equipped to deal with them.

Sorry about that guys - that place has NEVER been busy like that, what with the picnic and all, before. Of course, my previous wars all took place in between school years - something to keep in mind for next year.

The older guys who did play with us were pretty cool though. And the rounds we got in between the rain showers and the mini-hailstorm were all quite fun. I loved carpe as always, despite having only 1 ball in my team's bucket at the end.

It was great seeing all the returning faces, and meeting some new folks (like DM's sister*, Phoenix's dad & cousin, etc), and it was definitely great having Ryan, Wes and DarkMatter present, continuing the tradition of all of us rocking out at Foam in the Fort. You guys are officially disallowed from ever missing one. EVER.


* P.S. - long live the Queen and victor of the melee-only "Highlander" round. Her tactic of blending into the environment in her bright pink jacket, and sneaking up to back-stab the "winner" of the round when he thought he had slain all opposition was clearly superior, and in no way instigated by the war host or anyone affiliated with the war in any manner at all. No sir. Not a bit.

Important update:

Since the attendance for this war looks to be a bit smaller than last time, I am going to try something. Darts that weigh roughly the same as a #6 slug and still maintain a felt tip will be accepted for use provided you allow me to inspect them for safety and let me test fire them on you and have you return the favor. Keep the weight in mind though - I don't want slingshot weighted darts popping up please.

Please do not count on these darts as your sole source though - if they are deemed unsafe for any reason, you will not be allowed to use them. Think of this more as a way to war-test darts that you have already tested a bit at home for safety and practicality.

I've modded ten or so Mavericks in my time thus far, and I've had relatively few problems - and none that I haven't been able to deal with - until now. I'm working on one for my nephew right now. He's had it for a while, and it seems to have developed an issue where the trigger will stick half-way through a pull. Pulling really hard will sometimes work correctly, but sometimes will skip back along the rotation to the previous barrel instead. I've opened the blaster up and nothing looks out of sorts (and the blaster had never been previously opened or modded in any way). I just can't quite figure out what the issue is. Also, it seems to stick more if the blaster is held perfectly upright or tilted to the left, and less if it is tilted to the right a bit. It also occurs more frequenly if the trigger is pulled rapidly rather than squeezed gently.

I've searched both here and at NHQ, and I can't seem to find any evidence of other people having this problem, but I thought I'd throw it out here and see if anyone had any practical experience on this.

Images fixed for you - you had double tags. You only need one.

I was bored and had a few dead stock darts. The tips were all gone. So I made these:

[img]http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww90/popup123/DSC00227.jpg
[img]http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww90/popup123/DSC00226.jpg[/img]

What you need is:

-A stock dart that has been cut in half
-A plastic bead

[img]http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww90/popup123/DSC00223.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww90/popup123/DSC00224.jpg[/img]

All you have to do is put the bead through the opening of the stock dart like this.

[img]http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww90/popup123/DSC00225.jpg[/img]

You will need to dome the dart with hot glue or it won't work so well. It follows the same procedure to making a stepan but the hole is already there. These darts go farther compared to Tagger darts. This is an easy way of getting rid of your crappy stock darts!

Comments or flames?

As a first guess, I'd say that since your plunger is moving quick enough to "slam against the end of the tube but the dart doesn't come out" that your problem is a poor seal between the plunger and the turret. If the darts aren't moving, but the plunger is, that air is going somewhere.

Did you put the spring and the small sealing cylinder back into the front of the plunger tube area when you put it back together? If so, you might need a stronger spring there to keep a seal due the the increased pressure of the CPVC on your darts. Also, if your CPVC is really tight on your darts, that could also be part of the problem (i.e. if you have to twist them a lot to get them in).

Another possible issue is the plunger head itself - if the seal provided by the O-ring is not very good, you could be losing a lot of air that way.

Your barrel is way to short on the mega missle mav, especialy with the expanded tank.

Something tells me he knows that already. What could it be...

I will post ranges after I add a coupler and longer barrel. Right now it's so powerful that the short barrel doesn't work well. It's singled because I want to compare ranges when I make another one with the turret.

On topic - I like the idea of the 6-pronged ramrod for the Mav - saves you from having to push them each down individually, and if you have short, stubby fingers like I do, you can't just use them in CPVC.

I'm also really digging the Mega Maverick, and I'm looking forward to the turretted version. (I'm guessing the poor seal and the limited barrel length will hurt you there though.)

Not to mention, if you buy your Nerf blasters new, they come with darts - so you already have some to work with.

Also, if - like me - you play indoor wars with stock darts in the dark, you have a lot of darts get their heads ripped off due to being stepped on. This is a great way to recycle otherwise garbage darts. Of course, they can't be used in said stock-dart-only wars, but if you do both, you're golden.

Thanks for the input guys. When I have a chance, I'll do a complete strip-down and reassembly to see if that has any effect. If not, I might just take Draconis up on his offer.

Unless anyone has some amazing insight that has not been shared yet, I consider this topic closed.

How comfortable is it? (And how big are your hands?)

I have fairly small, stubby hands for a 30-year-old guy, but if these things are comfortable enough, I would love to get my hands on a pair, supe-up the motors a bit and dual-wield them. They would make highly effective rushing weapons if used in that manner. (Not to mention that the motor noise would be a non-issue if you hurl yourself at your enemies screaming a battle-cry.)

Being semi-auto as they are, and with a decently small size, I could see these being used John-Woo style to great effect - each hand aiming at a different target. It would take a lot of practive to expect very many hits that way, but the sheer awesomeness of the prospect would be enough motivation to get me to spend some time working on my aim.

Singled Titans are banned most places. However, he said he wanted to add 8 Crayola barrels in place of the rocket barrel - thus a shotgun modded Titan, which - as far as I've heard - is much more welcome at most wars.

Yep - as VACC said, public places are fair game. School playgrounds (on weekends), public parks, etc. All are ok, as long as you aren't harrassing anyone. Basically, just use common sense, don't shoot anyone who isn't playing, don't be a nuisance, put your game on hold or move to a different area if people move through/into the area you're using, and you'll be fine.

Of course, private property (which includes people's yards, church lots, etc.) all require permission to use, but you'll never know until you ask.

They do - it is just that kids today don't realise that there are words inside of books, much like they can find on the internet!

If you add some stronger springs, you can increase the power of the LS, but I don't think it is enough to make a barrel extension worthwile. However, replacing the stock barrel with one that fits the dart better will improve the accuracy - due to no bouncing around on the way out.

As for where the pump guns are - Nerf doesn't make guns for modders - we mod them to make them better. Nerf makes guns for little kids to bug their parents to buy them in large quantities - therefore they make guns that kids will think are "cool". That is why we are seeing guns that look (slightly) more realistic these days. That is why we are seeing Nerf "Sn|per Rifles" and "Assault Rifles" in the form of the Longshot and Recon respectively. That is why we got the chain-fed, high ROF Vulcan.

Basically, in the past Nerf guns were cool just because they could launch a foam projectile at people without hurting anyone. Now, they are getting more and more like the guns these kiddies are seeing in their video games. It is what they want, and it is what they get. It really is all about the money.

I mostly meant extending the barrel of the LS beyond where the stock barrel ends. Replacing the barrel is definately a boon, but giving it a 3 foot barrel extension to make it look like the sn|per rifle from Halo just isn't worthwhile.

My wife and I are sponsors for the youth group at our church. We play in the church building - usually on Friday or Saturday evenings - as activities for the youth to bring their friends out to. We usually have a pretty good turnout (varying from 5-25 people at various events). The building is large enough and has varied enough layouts in the different rooms to make for some very interesting firefights.

Of course, there are certain rules about area being off-limits, and one area where running is strictly forbidden due to the large amount of glass in the windows & doors nearby.

I'm fairly certain that, due to the way the Pop Shot fires, the Key-Ring is the trigger for the firing mechanism. I'm also assuming the original trigger was retained in order to operate the turret's rotation mechanism.

Umm...look at the pics. It is covered in dirt, scratches and scuffs. Nobody is going to believe that thing was purchased yesterday and returned because it didn't work out of the box. It has obviously seen some heavy use.

Blue - your best bet is to open it up and see if there is a loose spring or a broken casing in there that is supposed to keep those connections touching.

Many of us use ball-valves or dart doors on top of our hoppers. These allow you to quickly load those, but retain the ease of loading darts by hand with little fuss. (i.e. once your speed-loaders are out, or if you only need 1 or 2 darts to top off)

Only pay attention to optical zoom. Digital zoom means absolutely nothing.

In case that confused anyone, what he means is that the optical zoom is practical, it can actually get you a better shot by using the camera's optics to clearly zoom in on more distant objects. The optical zoom just takes the image being fed to the camera's computer and blows it up like you would an image in paint - it simply resizes the pixels of the image. This is useless because you can do this later (in the editing stage) without risking missing important details in the shot (having finer control and generally a better final look).

Digital zoom is just one of those "features" that companies throw in their cameras for amateurs to toy around with and get all googly-eyed over, even though they are actually not worth using. (Similar features are things like "black & white" or "sepia" mode, "old movie" mode, etc. that can be easily, and often better, created in editing software without limiting what you can do with your footage once it is shot.)


Just thought I'd throw that out there in case anybody thought to themselves "what?".

Nicely done. How's the seal on the clip - do you think it is better or worse than the Longshot/Recon?

How well does the clip stay where it is? What, if anything, is holding it there? Did the clip require any modification to fit into this, or would any stock CS-6 Clip work with your breech?

In my experience, if a SSPB is not holding air when you pump it (and pushing the dart out as you mentioned) the easiest way to fix it is to just pump it really fast. I have one that acts exactly as you describe - and if I pump it quickly, I can get it to hold air and fire. (I often have to push the dart back in a bit first though, to get a better shot off.) It also won't hold air for a long period of time, so I usually have to pump it up right before I'm ready to fire it.

In short, the SSPB's aren't that relible - which is unfortunate considering how small they are. If they were a bit more reliable, they would be one of the best integration blasters available.

If you just get a long enough rubber band, you can slip one end over the barrel area, run it along the side of the blaster, through the loop in the pull-handle, along the other side, and then slip the other end over the barrel. (The two ends of the band should now form an X on the top and bottom of the barrel area.)

The dart gun portion of the switch shot is roughly the same size as a Wii remote, and the entire gun assembly is about the size of a disc shot. The plunger tube is about the same size as those found in NF's & DS's. The blaster itself certainly wouldn't fit in 1" PVC, but the plunger tube might - I'm not certain.

A Nerf gun is worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it. That is the best answer you are going to get.

If you are wanting to sell one, put it up and have people make offers. If you like the offers, sell it, If you don't, don't.

If you are wanting to buy one, put up a WTB and see what people offer you. If you get an offer you like, buy it.

Now if you could get those frisbees in O.D. Green, you'd have the coolest Nerf grenade ever!


As mentioned, the Barricade Buster is an old idea (don't feel bad - a lot of the things I've thought up are either variations on others ideas, or things that I find in the archives of this site after I think of them). However, your clip-pin is quite clever and original to my knowledge. I also like the use of tagger heads as your shrapnell - they are a bit heavier than just foam, and if you make a lot of CDTS's you'd have loads of these lying around anyway!

Naw - Demon Lord is cool. Knowing him, he's using the thing for something other than Nerf (I forget which group you hang with Demon Lord - Dagorhir? Or was it one of the others I can't think of right now.) He had a huge stash of boffer-type and similar non-lethal weaponry at the last Chicago war I attended. My guess is that the bow is being used in conjunction with those.

Might be doable for me - depends on the weekend and current financial status.

I can't really see this working, mainly because you'd have to have extremely long fingers to be able to cock the gun with a trigger pull after the trigger actuated the catch. Think about it - for this to work, you can't even begin pulling back on the slide until the blaster has fired. I don't have the exact measurement, but I'm guessing the mav's standard trigger pull is probably somewhere between 1/4" and 1/2", maybe longer. That's all distance you have to cover before you can start cocking it - as any movement of the slide before the blaster fires would result in the slide catching the plunger before the spring fully decompresses.

Now, add on the pull distance for the slide itself. Again. I don't know the exact dimensions, but it's probably somewhere close to 3" or more. With that in mind, we're looking at something like a 3-1/2" (or longer) trigger pull, that you would then have to release completely before pulling it again to fire a second time.

This doesn't even take into account the fact that, while your trigger is pulled back, the catch would still be actuated (or would likely actuate as the trigger moved back to it's "resting" position), or the fact that the Mav's trigger mechanism is tied directly into the barrel rotaction mechanism. Both of those would be design problems you'd have to overcome as well.

Long story short, it just isn't feasible.

Definately interesting. I have a pair of manual (i.e. not battery-operated) disk shooters that I pull out from time to time. For some reason, if I dual-wield them and fire as quickly as possible, the resulting cloud of foam reminds me of the dual-wielded needlers from Halo 2...




...except they don't make things go BOOM!

Now this I like. I'm a little surprised that the BBBB fit into that space. Did you have to cut the pump down any to get it in there, or is it still full-length? I think if you put an RSCB clip on there, you'd have a ROF that would make this thing a true beast, able to rival even a well-modded Longshot, with the added advantage of being smaller and lighter. (I would think pumping it while tilting it down to load the next dart from the RSCB would be a relatively quick and easy task.)

One of these days I'll decide just what I want to do with my LSFG. This, or something like it, might just be the front-runner.

I highly reccomend the BSA's "Trail's End" popcorn. I sold this stuff for years. Both myself, and most of those I sold it to, agreed that it was some of the best popcorn you could buy.

Also, a good portion of the price of each unit sold goes to support the BSA at various levels - national, council and troop - and the BSA is a great program to support.

Good luck durka durka