Jesus Michigan Nerfers are gonna start getting a bad rap around here. First the OP of the "Nerf war in MI" thread (still on the front page) that looked like it was written by a 7 year old, and now this.

I'm not trying to discourage you, but any real war has to have organization and structure. Find a place, set a time, make some rules.

This 'unsure' posting is sure to get no real commitments and a ton of flak from the community.

All that being said, I'd love to attend a well planned Nerf War in my home state.

i just want to get something straight ....your a dumb ass if you could actually read you would know that i would be posting details later so you better think long and hard about what you said you dumb fuck
and yes this is to you nostyleguy

Chill dude, All I'm trying to say is that these threads along the lines of "Im gonna have a nerfwhere, sometime, somewhere, with some ppl" aren't very useful. If you're going to have more details later, then just wait till 'later' to post the thread. You're alot more likely to get community support and interest that way.

So the pressure of the incoming air into the tank is enough to deflect the 'lips' of the piston so that air can get in but not out? very interesting.

whats interesting to me is how the bottom 2 barrels are noticeably longer than the top two. Not that dart fit is great with stock darts, but i wonder if it affects the performance.

Also, no vinyl tubing; its all plastic walls like a SSPB, which is sad. Not like it'd be hard to add, but certainly another step before the tanks can be used in an integration.

That looks amazing.

Is the tek 6 turret piece actually stabilized in the 'end cap' of the BBBB? if not, would it be practical to move the entire turret assembly back to the very beginning of the BBBB tank and thus minimize the overall length of the gun by about 6 inches?
I don't own a BBBB so i'm not sure how narrow the actual internals are, but there seems to be a lot of unnecessary length of 'barrel' before the end of the blaster (in all BBBB's)

Yeah i had to tell a friend to 'pull harder' to get the fourth barrel to fire. Its quite a stretch. Some putty in front of the trigger to expand the perceived 'stroke' helps though.

Not to derail the thread, but since there isn't exactly an abundance of TetraStrike threads available, I wanted to ask a question. Have you plugged the pump? If so, and you're pluming to pretty high pressures, can you get the gun to behave normally?

My problem is that the increased force needed to pull the firing pins is so much that it warps the trigger plate enough that the tanks either (A) open slowly resulting in a crappy range, or ( the second and third barrels fire at the same time, regardless of how slowly I pull the trigger.

I tried reinforcing the trigger plate, and did a pretty good job I think. I filled in almost every possible surface (that wasn't used in sliding) with epoxy putty, and added some coat-hangar-wire across the gap between the fourth tank and the trigger (this is where most of the warping takes place).

Anyways, it still isn't enough. The tanks can take extremely high pressures, but the trigger just can't pull them reliably. Short of machining a metal trigger plate, or designing a new trigger system, I'm not sure what to do.

It seems like this was done a lot better without the rear loading a long time ago.

Split-tech 2k a la Falcon, circa 2006. But you know, thats just like, my opinion, man.

I know its pointless to argue about matters of opinion, but was this 'thread-crapping' comment really needed?

Just to defend the op's mod (which is amazing). I can easily see a bunch of areas where the splitlantern is 'a lot better' than the splittech

1) rear-loading
2) no exposed brass
3) no ugly hot-glue spacers or globs
4) not ridiculously ungainly
5) reloads in one motion vs two

as for the splittech, the only advantage i can see is:

1) 4 salvos instead of 2

That looks very nice. I love the hidden RSCB, really makes it seem clean. My only question is how you reload the rscb? Take off the entire front assembly?

That's an amazing looking homemade. Right up there with BoltSniper's imo.

Can you elaborate a little more on the catch mechanism? Idk if its just the pictures, but the contact rod seems long and angled, but the plunger's catch hole is a circle. I'm likely just misunderstanding.

Great work though, These always make me jealous

Wow, this is a pretty neat first write up.

I think some more pictures towards the middle would have helped, but I understand what you were saying about not being able to hold it open and work a camera.

I really like the breech tab, looks so natural.

Black CPVC? I dont think my 1/2" cpvc fits in 3/4" cpvc. Pretty nifty you didn't have to sand the barrel, or bore out the outside of the breech.

I'm gonna guess that an 18" barrel is too long for this application. Springers with much higher airoutput (LS, BB, +Bow) don't even take that much. My suggestion would be to cut it off an inch or 2 at a time and see if it keeps helping. Once it stops helping, stop cutting. Of course you want to do a lot of trials at each length, and do an average. Hopefully that's not too much math for ya (Just playing around, no offense meant).

Overall looks like a pretty solid gun, and a nice write up.

Black CPVC? I dont think my 1/2" cpvc fits in 3/4" cpvc. Pretty nifty you didn't have to sand the barrel, or bore out the outside of the breech.

1/2" CPVC easily fits inside 3/4 CPVC with little bit of wiggle room.

Bah yeah. I was thinking 1/2" Cpvc in 1/2" PVC. I've used a 5/8" drill bit to bore out PVC a few times so I kinda assumed that he was using it, and I was surprised to see no boring necessary. /Fail

Looks like a very simple, yet effective mod. Nice and clean too.
Do you have any other plans for it? What kinda spring would you add for such a huge plunger tube?0

I also have a non-mod-related Bow n Arrow related question that i've been wanting to ask since i saw the BnA in the internals directory, but didn't want to necro any posts: There is no catch/trigger mechanism for this gun correct? You just pull it back and let it fly? Is this tricky to use?

I sort of tested it on my NF by depressing the trigger and trying to just pull it back and let go, but my release is always too awkward and slows the plunger down a great deal.

Sorry for the slightly off topic question. Nice mod. Breech it and clip it!

I think everybody is asking about the 2 pumps because you might as well just replace the stock pump with the magstrike pump if its better. You can't use both at once, and replacing the at2k one would look cleaner.

I love the idea of combining a bladder system with a hard tank gun like that at2k, but the triple part priming process seems to defeat the 'semi-auto' nature of it.

Have you thought of putting the magstrike bladder release behind the at2k trigger? With some tinkering, It seems like you could use the majority of the trigger stroke to depress the magstrike valve (untill the at2k tank is full) and then use the last bit of the trigger stroke to open the at2k tank and fire.

Put that system into an auto-advancing turret (3k?) and you'd have true semi auto (except for the whole regulator issue).

Still, what you have is very nice, and I'm not in much of a place to give criticism since I have never modded any of the ATxK guns. Wish i could find some though.

That just looks unfair. And the cocking looks alot easier than I'd have expected (though that might just be the difference between the [k26] and [k25]. I didn't think they were that different). Awesome stuff.

maybe i missed it, but how did you connect the bike tubing to the flexible pvc from step 1? Did u use the bike's hose? or more of the pvc tubing to connect to the pump?

looks very nice. how many pumps till the oprv kicks in?

what diameter of brass did you use? what kinda darts are you using? Sounds like a bad dart fit issue to me. typically 17/32" brass is used on stock darts.

Or perhaps the barrel is too long. i tried CPVC'ing a NF and a 4" barrel with about 1" of coupler was too long (the dart never made it all the way out before being slowed down). i made a brass version and it seems to work very well.

If neither is the case, and there are honestly no leaks in the seal (hot glue isn't a very good sealant, you should also add plumbers goop or equivalent), then i'd assume there is a problem with the plunger head or tube. maybe there is a crack?

Also about the Ace spring. Unfortunately you bought the wrong one. There is no (easy) way to use an extension spring in replacement for a plunger tube spring. The #49 thing doesn't seem to apply to all ACE's, and the one by me doesn't carry handyman springs at all. i found a very nice 2 pack of C-836 (or some such number, don't have the package anymore) springs that work, but they aren't #49 or anything. You really just need to shop smart and find a spring that looks like it will fit in your tube and isn't so strong that it will break everything. Trust me there were some pretty tempting compression springs that coulda passed for bike shocks that i wanted to try, but i used better judgment and passed.

sorry for the ramble. its 4:45AM and i'm having a bout of insomnia. Hope i helped a little.

I love the gun, integrations make me happy. Just one question: why didn't you stick with running the at2k trigger wire through vinyl tubing like the fishing line previously? I understand that its not horribly uncomfortable where it is now, but was there technical difficulty in getting it to work through the tubing?

Includes .... 6 Delicacy Darts

Wow, looks like a failed foreign attempt to use an automatic translator.

I know I said "#12 or #13" but I just got home from work and the # I actually use is #14.

Danco #57 is 1" OD, 13/16" ID. The #14 is 15/16"OD, 3/4 (12/16)" ID. The #57 might be better, but the #14 works just fine and is a little snugger.

Sorry for the mis-information.

Wrap a bit of electrical tape around the plunger head in the slot that holds the O-ring in place. It should expand the O.D. of the O-ring, instant better seal. Just as good as a replacement.

Thanks but I know that. I'm looking for the o-ring size for a upcomeing plunger head project.

Just take the O-ring to the store with you. Lowes has a size chart laminated on the wall that you can literally press the o-ring up against to compare sizes. I think you're looking for a #12 or #13 O-ring though.

I'm a little confused about the way this gun cocks. The bolt sled brings the entire barrel assembly backwards into the NF plunger tube, thus pushing back the plunger and cocking it? That's pretty nifty, but what keeps the seal between the PVC sheath and the NF plunger tube? And where is the breech 'slot' to allow darts in? I may be missing something obvious here.

I think this is pretty good info. Maybe it should have gone in the Product Awareness thread, but a lot of news for the Longstrike and Deploy got their own threads, so I think you're safe.

From the bits and pieces coming in, this sounds like a new automatic system from Nerf. If its got '50' in the name, that probably means its belt fed, but the fact that 18 round clips have been seen is interesting. Maybe it will be able to support both belts and clips?

Either way, I hope its not just a re-shelled vulcan.

I'm pretty sure the pitfall here is that air compresses much more easily than steam and certainly water. Therefore any attempt to 'accelerate' the air through a tightening nozzle just serves to build up high pressure behind the nozzle, without actually being accelerated through it. This is why air 'flow' is so important in nerf. High pressure is good, but not if it doesn't ever contact your dart.

I hope so, I dont have a crazy arsenal yet or anything, but I've got a few guns I wanna shoot people with

Also, I hope this is scheduled for Saturday. I dont see many people being able to get anywhere Friday before the work day is over, and I just got an interview scheduled for Friday afternoon.

I think I could do a 16th/17th 'event'. I'll be attending graduation the 8th.

As for ideas for organizing it, just be concrete. I've never been to a real 'war' yet, but I've read enough threads where events fall through because there are no definite conditions.

You have a group of attendees already, and that seems to be the hard part.

Hopefully the weather holds up, I'll be looking forward to this

That looks great. Good to see I'm not the only Spartan who's got a nerf gun obsession. We need to find a place and a date though.

Hey an East Lansing war sounds awesome. I'm an MSU student as well. Where are you guys located on campus and do you have any kinda organization yet? I was surprised to find out MSU doesn't have any HvZ or any Nerf related student groups Been looking for a group to Nerf with for a while.

This looks so promising. I'd really like to see the tank expansion pressed to the limits. I've seen the Assault Magstrike mod, and other tank expansion mods, but they always seemed inconsistent or underwhelming.

The problem usually seems to be the need to re-barrel a magstrike which is a pain, or the system eats too much air to be worthwhile.

With your setup, the barreling problem is solved by having 1 stationary barrel, and the air capacity problem is solved (presumably) because you can have a huge external air source since the system will be mounted on a tripod and (presumably) non-mobile.

Speaking of which, what are your plans for an air source? I'd like to see a ridiculously over the top air tank made of like 5" PVC honestly.

I don't want to be too optimistic but with a large enough tank expansion, and a large enough reservoir, you could be laying down a constant stream of foam 100' away.

Well what's sad is that everybody uses the canned "look in the modifications directory thread, dumbass" response without even checking to see the relevance to his question: in this case, there are NO fury fire mods in the Mod Directory, so telling him to go look there isn't very constructive. Should he have looked there first? Yes. But his question still deserves a thoughtful answer, instead of just bashing him.

Now obviously he didn't know to look there first, so he sorta got "lucky", however, as a community that prides itself on intellect and maturity, we should really make sure the suggestions we're making are useful, and not just some newb bashing under the guise of helping.

I use autodesk inventor 2010. its a great tool, as it allows you to design your parts in 3D, so you can see them in all their glory. Its also REALLY easy to learn and use. I taught myself in the lesser half of the week.

What you don't state is that Inventor is insanely expensive. $5300? Not for nerf stuff. And I can pretty much guarantee that you didn't buy it, so why don't you stop admitting to and encouraging illegal activity on a site dedicated to toys, populated by kids?
http://store.autodes...s=1279305951173

To be fair, a lot of universities have the ability to distribute licenses of commercial-grade software for either free, or very very cheap. I have legitimate copies of Inventor 2010, Autocad2010, Visual Studio 2008, and could have many other software licenses if I wanted. All thanks to being an Engineering major.

wow, this came out of nowhere. Usually we've got leaked tid bits from other source before the official announcements.

Anyway, Is the gray priming 'grip' on the back necessarily indicative of a reverse plunger? Unfortunately, I think it is because there wouldn't be enough internal room to have a normal plunger pulled back without it sticking out.

At least the ammo holder looks cool

I really like Belt Blasters and this is the best mod on NH for one. The aesthetics are nice. Have you thought of doing any kinda major internal overhaul? It seems like there is so much room in the back of the shell that a much bigger Plunger Tube could be used, but it might be tricky with the front grip bars. Also I'm not sure if more air would even help without a proper 'barrel'. I was thinking of having some kind of sliding barrel that slid into the shells via the priming handle on each shot, but this became too problematic.

Still, very nice mod.

nostyleguy@yahoo.com

Hey NH, I decided to make a new topic because I have a few questions that are specific to my Magstrike, as well as some questions I couldn't find an answer to while searching.

First, I bought my MS over a year ago and only did some minimal mods, AR removal, OPV removal, making room for bladder expansion, and plugging the whole on the white winged piece.
It then sat on my shelf until recently, with the bladder unscrewed from the front bladder 'collar'.

Now i saw the Assult Magstrike mod, and got really giddy about having an automatic gun with 70'+ ranges, so I pulled my dusty MS off the shelf and tried to reassemble it. Well it leaked, a lot. I did some tests by submerging it in water and i thought the leak was coming from where the air inlet/output piece (attached to the pump and then up to the trigger valve) sealed with the bladder. I hesitated to goop it because A)it would become immovable, and I'm not sure if its wise to goop a connection that will be dynamically moving (would the goop restrict the bladder inflation? would it even hold tight?).

So i decided to just smear all the fittings on the inlet/output piece in goop, and wait till i got back from work 8 hours later. Well It seemed to improve a lot. There was no longer any hissing, but depending on the orientation of the pump (I held it underwater without closing up the shell, and had to keep pumping it to keep it inflated), there would still be bubbles.

After inspecting the vinyl tubing i noticed a tiny 'scratch' that didn't even appear to penetrate the entire tube, but i slobbered it in goop anyways and went to bed.

I woke up this morning and pumped up the bladder and submerged it once again. Eureka! I didn't see any bubbles at all!

Satisfied, I left the bladder inflated and took a 10 minute shower, but when I returned, the bladder was totally deflated. I was perplexed.

Frustrated, I submerged the entire blaster, and noticed that the only place bubbles escaped were in the piston assembly. At first i presumed this was just the piston displacing the air with water, but it never stopped! It was a quite vigorous stream of bubbles compared to the previous two, so i was in disbelief that it did not hiss or anything. Also, this would mean that the trigger system was not closing all the way, because air was getting into the piston without the trigger being depressed.

Now I'm totally confused. It appears neither the first two leaks were very significant (they were much smaller compared to the piston leak, and all my work was focused on the wrong spot. I don't know what to try next. I think the problem lies in the trigger valve, but i really dont know how to begin trouble-shooting that. This is where I need your help NF!

Okay, I realize that was a long post for a simple leak question, but I have another question about the "Assult Magstrike" mod (which isn't in the mod directory, but I stumbled upon while reading the 15 pages of Magstrike search results).


Banding the piston and adding the external piston enlargement do essentially the same thing, they increase the amount (either by volume, or pressure) of air needed to actuate the piston, and fire a dart, right?

As far as I can find (and I read 15 pages of Magstrike search resulsts), nobody has posted about doing both, or even doing a larger piston enlargement than the original. My question is if anybody has done both of these, and what kinda performance he's gotten. I was wondering if there is a point where adding a bigger piston enlargement doesn't add any significant range because of weight etc.

If I'm understanding it correctly, theoretically, if you built a super large piston enlargment, you'd get a very slow RoF (because it would take a while to fill the new piston), resulting in an almost semi-auto like magstrike with (presumably) incredible ranges. I.E I'd much rather have a Magstrike that could only fire 5 or 6 shots 100' than 10 shots at 50'. These are just guesses obviously, but the original Assult Magstrike mod was getting a full clip of 10 darts to go 70'-105', surely 5 or 6 shots at 100' consistently is plausible.

I realize the above paragraph is a 'conceptual' sentiment that might be received unfavorably here, but i was just wondering if anybody has documented this, and if i'm missing something fundamental that would limit the piston enlargment's benefits.


tl;dr - 1) how do you trouble shoot a leaky trigger valve?
2) what are the limits of the "Assult Magstrike" mod?

A MS bladder can best be thought of as a "Resevoir" of extra air. It has a huge volume, at (possibly) high pressure. It is similar in purpose to hard air tanks made of PVC or aluminum that you see people using. They have a valve that opens slowly.

It's purpose is not to actually fire anything, only to fill another firing mechanism with air. In the case of a MS, it is the MS piston which fills with air. The incoming air presses against the spring-loaded piston, building pressure. Once the piston is pushed back far enough, a valve is opened and all the stored air is shot out very fast, launching the dart.

Therefore, the MS Piston is analogous to an AT2k tank, or even a Titan tank in purpose, though they operate very differently.

Finally, if you want to use both a MS bladder and an AT2k/Titan tank, the MS bladder would serve as a reservoir for the AT2k/Titan tank. You could hook the MS bladder up to inlet of the firing tank (instead of where the pump usually goes in) and have the MS trigger valve between them. With this system, you would pump up the bladder to capacity, open the MS trigger valve (filling the firing tank), close MS trigger valve, open firing tank (firing the dart), and then re-open the MS trigger valve, close, fire, etc until the MS bladder was empty.

This is the basis for several Semi Auto AT2k mods on this site, and even the inspiration for some Semi-Auto titans, though I think in practice, the Titan tank is only able to get about 2 shots off with 40-50 pumps of the MS bladder. Not very useful.

Just to give a little experience, I'm a Target cashier in Michigan and i can honestly say i ring-up a few nerf guns a day, maybe a dozen. in 2 years with Target i've never seen anybody purchasing a nerf blaster who looked like a modder.
By that i mean somebody in his late teens to mid 20's in age. Its been 100% young kids (13 and younger) and older men/woman (parents/grandparents). So, unless there are a lot of 8 year old and 40 year old modders, I'd say we make up an infinitesimally small percentage of the Nerf market.

Now another obstacle is that, even with a large enough influence in static market composition, we still would have an uphill battle. It would take a disproportionate amount of strict negative feedback to change Hasbro's ways because, currently, their infrastructure is totally devoted to N-Strike and reverse plungers. Basically, any bad media we could generate would have to be so impactful that it influenced sales enough to warrant a whole sale transition in the companies business model. That's a monumental amount of negative influence, not just a few bad reviews.

tl;dr: Even if we are able to reduce the longstrike's predicted profit by any brow-raising amount (doubtful), it would still take MORE than that to really change anything coming down the pipeline because the inverted plunger design is so cheap and portable that it can withstand smaller volume of sales due to a higher profit margin (cheaper to make) and less overhead (infrastructure already exists)

So if you're thinking along the lines of something that hasn't been done yet, wouldn't it make sense that nobody is gonna tell you about it? Just go out and try it. Then you can be the first person to post the write-up and get all the girls.

Not trying to sound harsh, but the ban-hammer doesn't have a lot of tolerance for 'I don't know what to do, so give me ideas' threads.

There is already a thread called "Modifying a longshot?". There is an entire list of 'cosmetic' mods.

is it necessary to drill (i.e make an inner diameter throughout most of the dart length) a la http://nerfhaven.com...ans/Diagram.jpg ?

I read about 6 pages into this thread before giving up. A lot of stefan making how-to's dont even mention it, but some of the (more well respected) ones do.

I assumed the advantage was increased accuracy, but with my first batch of stefans (which i didn't drill) the accuracy seemed spot on. Of course, these were my first stefans and it was just nice to not deal with streamline swirling

also, what are the advantages/disadvantages of different stefan lengths? I made a few different lengths (1", 1.5", 2") and the range and accuracy all seemed more or less the same. The one advantage i liked was i could shotgun fire more shorter darts in a single barrel.

In addition to what everybody has already said, make sure the connection between the barrel and orange plunger cap is air tight.

I did a similar mod with epoxy putty to hold the barrel in, and after a few shots, a crack appeared between the putty and the barrel. It was tiny, like a hair-line fracture, but it killed range. Goop it up and you should be good to go.