1. adjustable power output
2. adjustable ROF
3. mountable on camera tripod
Goals one and two have been met, three is currently being worked on.
-working MS valve
-assortment of screws
-3/8" PEX or something else that will function as a screw spacer
-PVC w/ 5/8" ID, or just a CPVC coupler
-1" PVC coupler
-1" PVC end cap
-1/2" PVC Wye
-1/2" PVC ball valve
-segment of SS1 plunger tube, or another pipe with the same OD
-spring that slides freely over 1/2" CPVC
-a small toggle or ball valve, spring loaded if you don't want to manually reset the trigger (valves from super soakers work nicely)
Tools / Adhesives / Tape / Etc:
-solvent weld or CA glue
-dry weather if you're using solvents (do that shit OUTSIDE)
-pipe cutters or hack saw
I think that's it. Let me know if you see something in the pics that I missed here. On to the write-up.
Cut a slot in a longish segment of CPVC so it fits around the tubing elbow on the MS valve.
Glue/solvent weld like so.
Apply a healthy amount of epoxy putty.
Cut off the excess CPVC a bit under an inch from the tubing elbow. Fill the CPVC with gorilla glue. I found this stuff to be an excellent filler to keep things from moving around, in this case the elbow.
Screw on the CPVC you cut off earlier. I used some wide-ID'd PVC I had on hand as a coupler. but a CPVC coupler could be used just as easily.
Glue 1" PVC onto the middle section of the valve. Notice mine is glued on in halves because I had stupidly started the tank expansion already. Don't do this. Ignore everything at the front of the valve.
Slide a segment of 1" PVC coupler over the 1" PVC, once again ignoring everything shown at the front of the valve.
Take a longish segment of 1" PVC and cut a slot for the tubing connected to the piston to slide through as the valve actuates. I don't have measurements, just make your own. It isn't at all hard.
Now slide some 1.5" PVC over the 1" PVC coupler segment. Slide the other half of the coupler segment into the back end of the 1.5" PVC. Fuss with the SS1 tube segment to get it over the barbed elbow of the piston. There will be much bending required, and you'll have to remove the stock tubing to do this.
Slide the yellow segment into the 1" PVC.
Wrap e-tape over where the yellow tube is nested.
Shove it in and slide the 1.5" PVC/1" PVC endcap over it a good ways.
Time to screw everything down. The first an most important screw goes through all the PVC and into the MS valve body itself. Be ABSOLUTELY sure that the screw goes into the very back and widest part of the valve body, where there is some room inside for a screw to protrude a little. Drill slowly and stop once you fell the bit break through. You need to do measurements before assembling all the PVC to know where to drill the hole. If your screw is too long, either cut it down, or use a spacer if you're lazy like me.
Also screw the 1.5" PVC sheath onto the 1" PVC behind the valve. I did one on each side of the tubing slot.
Now for the tank expansion. Drill a 1/4" hole as shown. You can also put on the PVC Wye now if you'd like, but don't glue it on. It helps to have on to help gauge where to drill. You'll need to wrap e-tape around the valve front for the wye to fit properly.
Edited by TantumBull, 10 April 2010 - 02:11 PM.