I wanna Crack it open and figure out why the chamber indicator doesn't work properly.

 

It's connected to the trigger with a ratchet mechanism. The spring in that ratchet mechanism can fall out of position and ruin the feature.

 

 

I'm also working on a titan integration to either a spectre or to use a vagabond shell and then the pump handle to pump the titan.

 

Hornet tanks are great for integrations. Be careful about attaching the Hornet's pump to a Titan tank - its overpressure release valve is set to a way higher pressure than the Titan pump. It'll create a dangerous blaster that you should never aim at people.

It seems crude to use diodes to drop voltage. Generally, you should use PWM to control motors.

 

You can use an N-channel MOSFET or an NPN transistor on the low side, connected to a PWM pin on an Arduino or other microcontroller, to vary the power more efficiently.

 

Those are all Google-able, if your circuits knowledge is a bit rusty.

 

EDIT: The problem with dropping voltage with diodes is heat. The extra voltage is dissipated as heat, and the more current the motors draw, the more heat is wasted. Laziness and ignorance are not viable reasons to waste 30% of your battery power.

I've never seen anyone post about the awesome sight that 3DBBQ designed for the C5 Launcher. It snaps onto N-Strike rails and looks cool as hell.

 

You can buy the STL file from the JSPB site for two bucks and print it on your own machine.

 

I'm around an hour and a half from New Paltz, NY, according to Google Maps. The Battle for NY is probably close to your hometown, if you're looking for a war.

The problem with that approach is that in an "afterburner" setup with multiple flywheel cages, the first stage should spin at a far lower speed than the second stage. Too slowly, in fact, to fire a dart.

In other words, your barrel extension won't be optional at all!

 

So what if, the first stage of motors were something fairly weak and as the motors went on they got to something like 180s

 

That would work fine, but it will seriously complicate the build for a minor benefit. The blaster would be almost worthless without the extension.

 

I've been told that Rayvens and Rapidstrikes are good candidates for afterburners because of well-placed dead space in the shells.

 

If you're considering building an afterburner into a barrel extension, you're basically forced to use a Hyperfire or Stryfe because their flywheel cages are directly connected to the barrel extension adapter.

All of his stuff is lit as hell. Would think that they're a little tall and awkward for our purposes though. 

 

I mean, it's not like we actually USE our optics...

Walcom's is flush up agents the brass breech and the receiving piece of brass goes into the breach and in Jay's the piece of brass in the breach has a bit sticking out and that goes into the receiving piece. so that doesn't make a difference ?

 

and this would be my 1st breach mod what one would YOU recommend ?   

 

Ang Jay also mentions 1/2 inch brass, why is this and is it better to use 1/2 inch brass instead of the 17/32 inch brass ?

I wouldn't recommend doing either one. Breeches are difficult mods that need to be executed very well to even work. You seem fairly new to Nerf. I'd do easier mods and get used to working with brass, then tackle this one.

 

If I were to do one of these, I'd do Walcom's mod. It's easier to build and more likely to perform reliably.

 

1/2" brass has a snug fit on stock darts. 17/32" brass has a snug fit on most Slugs and other Foam Backer Rod-based homemade darts. You will select the barrel diameter that fits your loadout, and select the other brass parts to fit snugly against that. 

 

You shouldn't worry so much, and just buy some materials and see how things fit. Even if you make a massive mistake, this mod only takes $30 of materials.

Both breeches operate the same way. The brass in the plunger tube slides snugly into the larger brass in the barrel extension. When you close the breech, the plunger brass slides into the barrel brass and makes a seal.

 

The difference is that Jay cut a tongue into the plunger brass and Walcom didn't. Otherwise, the mods are identical.

 

The tongue guides the plunger brass into the barrel brass, preventing it from misaligning and jamming open. It also provides a smooth guide rail to help you slide the dart into loaded position. Otherwise, it shouldn't affect performance or functionality.

 

The drawback of Jay's mod is that it's difficult to cut a good tongue into brass. Ideally, you'd use a bandsaw or a bench-mounted Dremel and vise so you can cut an even, symmetrical tongue. The cleanup is also tricky - you need to round off the sharp brass edges and carefully bend it back into shape.

 

The downside of Walcom's mod is that it's marginally harder to load the blaster. Also, if something flexes or shifts, the brass pieces can misalign, and instead of closing and sealing, the plunger brass will push the barrel brass out of the blaster and bend out of shape.

is that a dart counter on the Rapidstrike?

 

For reference, I've posted the STL file for that display bracket in this thread.

So, I bought some PETG from Mod Man to finish my Daikaiju Berserker. However, there seems to be a lot of friction between darts and the barrel - no blaster I try can push any dart more than a couple of inches. Tighter darts need a few minutes with a stick to push through, and even very loose darts get jammed partway.

I've tested with darts made from Frost King, converted stock darts, MrCrouse's foam, and others, and nothing makes it through.
I've tried barrels of 12" and 6" on a +bow, Signal Launcher, PistolSplat, and blowing them by mouth.

The PETG doesn't feel sticky or strange - it feels totally normal, but darts just won't let go of the walls.

This doesn't happen with the PETG on Silencer's NF (heh heh).

Any ideas? Should I sand down the inner walls, grease them up, change darts?

Someone at BCNO left behind a nice, heavily-modded NiteFinder. PETG barrel, sanded handle, amputated rail, Luger'd with holes covered in cardboard, gets absurd ranges.

If it's yours, PM me and I'll either hand it off at GnomeFest or ship it to you.

The battery cap is painted a distinct color. When you contact me to claim the blaster, please tell me this color so I know you're the real owner.

I'd say to avoid Photobucket altogether. Pics hosted there tend to expire and make write-ups useless. Use Flickr instead.

Aww, you know that no Nerfer would play zombie games all day. It'll probably turn into 3-15 and the normal games after everyone gets bored and/or tired. Worst-case scenario, you can put your foot down and make sure it turns into 3-15 and the normal games.

The blaster belongs to Skitzo, who will presumably jump over my fence and directly into my window to claim it.

Please don't post in this topic. Admins, please close this thread, thanks.

Hmm, I wonder where this war idea came from! I'll see if I can show up. I hope it rains so I can powerslide down some hills!

If you plan weekend wars in Monmouth, I'd love to come. My brother lives nearby, and he's down too.

 

is it a problem if my FWs are not perfectly in the middle of the FWC?

how do i get my motors/flywheels to sit straight?

 

If a flywheel is askew, it can wobble as it turns. I believe this will fix itself over time as centripetal force pulls it back into position.

 

If you pushed a flywheel too far onto its motor's shaft, or if the motor isn't seated properly in the cage, the flywheel can rub on the cage. This happened with my Artifact setup. I just gently pried the flywheel up so it was no longer scraping against the cage.

This happened with my Hellcats until they were fully broken-in.

 

The motors need some runtime to burn off grease and crud left over from production, the factory lubricants need time to penetrate, and the brushes need to wear down to properly fit the shaft.

After an hour or two of continuous running, they should be more consistent. 

 

You can also double-check that your flywheels are consistent.

You could consider a 2S LiPo. It outputs an average 7.4V and should fit in the battery tray. 

Oh shit, it's Faddle!
I could do this... but what day is the war held?

I just finished a Stampede with 14.5v battery pack, and when I pull the trigger, the blaster fires uncontrollably. Unlike the common catch-spring problem that SGNerf identified and troubleshot, this is caused by a "race" condition between the plunger tube and the actuator gear.

I'm posting this thread to get some help solving this problem and chronicle any solutions for future modders. I'll put up photos as soon as I can.

Here's the problem:
The Stampede's plunger tube is pushed forward by a large gear which is about 2/3 toothed and about 1/3 smooth (untoothed). When the motor rotates the smooth part in, the plunger-tube assembly can slide freely and is pushed backwards by that weak black spring you can see through the window, which resets the blaster.

Normally, the gear turns fairly slowly, exposing the smooth part long enough for the spring to fully reset the plunger assembly. This releases the white motor switch, cutting power to the motor.

However, when the voltage is increased, the toothed part of the gear might rotate back in before the plunger-tube assembly has fully reset. This means that the white motor switch is never released, and thus the blaster fires uncontrollably. This can also cause the gearbox to become misaligned, which creates further problems and can damage the mechanism.

This is the "race" - the plunger tube needs to fully reset before the untoothed part of the gear rotates out.

Even if you haven't upped the voltage on your Stampede, it's likely that this problem could happen anyways once the lubricant wears off and the plunger-tube assembly returns more slowly.

I tried replacing the black spring with a more powerful one, and it still didn't reset fast enough. Any ideas?

I've taken the Google Calendar link off NH at Talio's request.

I've fixed the problem!

I replaced the stock spring with one from a Big Bad Bow. I had to cut off about two coils to make it fit, but it works fine.
The increased spring strength requires more force to compress and thus the gearbox turns more slowly. Less momentum on the main gear means that it has more time to reset!

The blaster fires hard and fast, and I haven't noticed any heat or damage in my postmortem.

Long story short: If your Stampede is firing uncontrollably and your catch spring is fine, upgrade the spring.

Between rounds at Apoc 8, I was trying out a crappy Lord of the Rings longbow, and another Nerfer attempted to shoot them down with a Titan-rocket-firing Chimera. This quickly turned into catch-the-Titan, which quickly turned into Titan Football! Sorry if I put this in the wrong section, I couldn't find any other rules-related articles.

The first batch of rules turned into a major clusterfuck, which was awesome. I've refined the rules a bit, and posted them here for your own Titan Footballing pleasure!

For this game, you'll need a missile-firing Titan or Chimera, a Titan missile, something to mark goals, and at least 10 Nerfers. Find a nice, open space with no obstacles. Mark goals about 100ft apart. Break into two teams. Each player can only use spring pistols.

Flip a coin to choose who's on offense. One player on the attacking team is the QB and gets the Titan. Form a line of scrimmage - offensive players in a line with the QB, defending players in a line 20 feet away. The QB "hikes" the Titan by starting to pump it, and lets the rocket rip. Team on offense tries to catch it.

If it's caught, next down starts where the catcher is tackled. Tackle players by shooting them (no barrel taps allowed!) or just simply get in their way. Tackled players can't shoot, drop the missile, and stand still until the end of the play. 4 downs per round, only one first down. You ken do eet - get that Titan into the end-zone!

You can also blitz the QB, preferably with a Lightning Blitz.

The idea here is that we can aggregate wars from other sites, see them all in one place, and get an idea of what's going on when. The Wars forum gets filled up with recaps and upcoming wars get pushed to the bottom.

But you've got the final say, and I'll pull it down from NerfHaven.

Unfortunately, the solder tabs aren't replaceable. You need a new Hellcat...

 

I'll admit that I broke a motor the same way. You can add some strain relief with a dab of E6000 or Goop after you solder the wires to make this less likely...

If you're looking to make an entire hopper out of CPVC, it ain't gonna happen. 1/2" CPVC wyes are rare (if they even exist), and an dart wouldn't be able to turn in it anyways. The closest you can get is the normal PVC design Langley pointed out with a 1/2" blue copper hopper to save some dead space.

Epoxy putty. A LOT of epoxy putty.

This isn't really anything new or groundbreaking... it's been done on the 8-way Big Salvo, the Arachnophobia Pistols, and pretty much anyone who has a double RSCB, etc.

Backseat modding: Read the CoC, edit your grammar, and beg forgiveness. Today's forecast: Partly cloudy, with a chance of banning.

1) Yes. The easiest way is buying 12V LED tape, which you can just run right off the batteries. You could also wire bunches of LED's in series so the forward voltage adds up to 12V or less, and use a resistor to limit the current. Or, you could add a DC-DC step-down converter (also called a buck regulator or switching regulator) to create a low-voltage line that can drive your LEDs.

 

2) Yes. You will need to regulate the battery voltage to a more manageable level, probably 5V for the Arduino. I would use a switching regulator to do this, because using a linear regulator to drop 12V to 5V will produce a lot of heat and waste a lot of battery.

 

3) The Tenergy TB6B is a well-designed multi-purpose battery charger, discharger, and balancer. It's well-priced and very popular. It has algorithms that monitor the battery and limit the amount of current it can draw.

The NYC Nerf Ops FB group is stoked to announce our next superstock war.

 

Date: 4/29/2017, 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM

Location: 40.782278, -73.963951 (Manhattan, Central Park)

Blaster ruleset: Superstock (~150fps max), melee weapons permitted

Game rotation: 3-15, Turf War, Sticks and Stones, Harambe Escort, Flag Push

 

Up-to-date info and non-NIC attendee list are available on the Facebook group page.

No rain date - the war continues in all weather. 
The battlefield is a five-minute walk from the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

 

The venue is a small, open field surrounded by trees. There's a lot more cover than a standard public park, enough to make Rival blasters competitive.

MANDATORY EQUIPMENT:
- Primary blaster. See Weapon Info below.
- At least 200 rounds of STOCK ammo. Homemade and modified ammo is banned.
- Eye protection. All players must have safety goggles. Glasses, toy goggles, and masks are not sufficient.

RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT:
- Water. There are no water fountains or 'street meat' stands nearby.
- A pistol, melee weapon, shotgun, or bow for Sticks and Stones
- 500+ rounds of ammo
- Garbage bags, for cleanup

WEAPON INFO:
- Blasters must be colorful. 
- We highly recommend using modified flywheel blasters.
- Melee weapons must be fully padded, including the shaft and pommel.
- See below for info about the "Sticks and Stones" special weapon restrictions.

SCHEDULE AND GAME RULES:
The first round begins when four players arrive. We generally alternate elimination with objective games. After each round, we will have 10 minutes of downtime, or 20 if we need to sweep.

Game rules:
 

Turf War Elimination:
- Teams may have any number of players. Each team decides on a color.
- Each team has ten shared lives. When you're hit, yell your team color and your team's new life total.
- 15-second respawns
- When your team runs out of lives, all team members are eliminated.

Sticks and Stones Elimination:
- 5-15 ruleset
- You may only use pistols, melee weapons, shotguns, and bows.
- Nerf Clip System blasters and compatible blasters are not pistols.
- The Nerf Apollo is not a pistol.
- Shotguns must fire at least two darts with every trigger pull.

Harambe Escort:
- Objective: Escort Harambe to freedom, or gun him down.
- Harambe the gorilla has two lives and is unarmed. Other players have infinite lives and may use any blaster.
- While Harambe is standing still and beating his chest, he is invincible.
- Harambe is escorted by four memelords. The remaining players are zookeepers.
- Harambe begins at Point A. If he touches Point B, the memelords win. If he dies, the zookeepers win.
- Memelords respawn in 15 seconds. Zookeepers respawn in 30 seconds.

Flag Push:
- Objective: Attackers attempt to carry the flag from Point A to Point B. Defenders must hold them off for ten minutes.
- Attackers begin at Point A. Defenders begin at point B. All players have infinite lives.
- Attackers respawn by touching Point A. Defenders respawn by counting to 15 WHILE touching Point B.
- Before the timer begins, defenders have 30 seconds to set up and may position themselves anywhere on the battlefield.
- Defenders may not touch the flag, except to stand it up.
- To carry the flag, an attacker must hold it in one hand, clearly visible. Nothing else may be carried in that hand.
- When an attacker is hit, he or she must immediately drop the flag.

Toys R Us is having a sale today [11/15/2009] only - 20% of all Nerf!

Coupon in PDF

Not sure if it's good for multiple purchases, but 20% off is a pretty sweet deal. Get a move on!