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Brass Breech (Sharpfire)


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#1 arcticajb

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Posted 13 December 2016 - 01:33 PM

Hi guys,

 

I have read the thread on this but I want to do a different kind of brass breech (I think, sorry I am new to the whole brass breech thing) i have seen two videos of it done. One by Jay Nerf (https://www.youtube....h?v=RbPw1FTwgrk) and the other by WalcomS7 (https://www.youtube....h?v=DaGbg2LfvVw) and he shows how to do it in this video (https://www.youtube....h?v=-C3uh9wkzVY) at about 6:30. I was wondering which on is better? I have a sharpfire with all the locks and the AR drilled out along with a blasterparts 7kg spring for it.

 

Personally, I prefer WalcomS7's, but I don't fully understand how to do it, for example, can the receiving end of the brass be as long as the barrel and the attachment because  WalcomS7 doesn't have it like this as opposed to Jay Nerf's where he does.

 

So my questions are Witch breech is better? and can someone explain WalcomS7's in a little more detail, please ?          

 

Any help is greatly appreciated. 


Edited by arcticajb, 13 December 2016 - 01:58 PM.

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Many Thanks,

 

Alexander Bertioli


#2 Zack the Mack

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Posted 13 December 2016 - 03:41 PM

Both breeches operate the same way. The brass in the plunger tube slides snugly into the larger brass in the barrel extension. When you close the breech, the plunger brass slides into the barrel brass and makes a seal.

 

The difference is that Jay cut a tongue into the plunger brass and Walcom didn't. Otherwise, the mods are identical.

 

The tongue guides the plunger brass into the barrel brass, preventing it from misaligning and jamming open. It also provides a smooth guide rail to help you slide the dart into loaded position. Otherwise, it shouldn't affect performance or functionality.

 

The drawback of Jay's mod is that it's difficult to cut a good tongue into brass. Ideally, you'd use a bandsaw or a bench-mounted Dremel and vise so you can cut an even, symmetrical tongue. The cleanup is also tricky - you need to round off the sharp brass edges and carefully bend it back into shape.

 

The downside of Walcom's mod is that it's marginally harder to load the blaster. Also, if something flexes or shifts, the brass pieces can misalign, and instead of closing and sealing, the plunger brass will push the barrel brass out of the blaster and bend out of shape.


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#3 arcticajb

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Posted 13 December 2016 - 04:05 PM

Both breeches operate the same way. The brass in the plunger tube slides snugly into the larger brass in the barrel extension. When you close the breech, the plunger brass slides into the barrel brass and makes a seal.

 

The difference is that Jay cut a tongue into the plunger brass and Walcom didn't. Otherwise, the mods are identical.

 

The tongue guides the plunger brass into the barrel brass, preventing it from misaligning and jamming open. It also provides a smooth guide rail to help you slide the dart into loaded position. Otherwise, it shouldn't affect performance or functionality.

 

The drawback of Jay's mod is that it's difficult to cut a good tongue into brass. Ideally, you'd use a bandsaw or a bench-mounted Dremel and vise so you can cut an even, symmetrical tongue. The cleanup is also tricky - you need to round off the sharp brass edges and carefully bend it back into shape.

 

The downside of Walcom's mod is that it's marginally harder to load the blaster. Also, if something flexes or shifts, the brass pieces can misalign, and instead of closing and sealing, the plunger brass will push the barrel brass out of the blaster and bend out of shape.

 

Zack The Mack, 

thank you for replying. ok but Walcom's is flush up agents the brass breech and the receiving piece of brass goes into the breach and in Jay's the piece of brass in the breach has a bit sticking out and that goes into the receiving piece. so that doesn't make a difference ? and this would be my 1st breach mod what one would YOU recommend ?   

 

Ang Jay also mentions 1/2 inch brass, why is this and is it better to use 1/2 inch brass instead of the 17/32 inch brass ?


Edited by arcticajb, 13 December 2016 - 04:09 PM.

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Many Thanks,

 

Alexander Bertioli


#4 Zack the Mack

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Posted 14 December 2016 - 02:46 AM

Walcom's is flush up agents the brass breech and the receiving piece of brass goes into the breach and in Jay's the piece of brass in the breach has a bit sticking out and that goes into the receiving piece. so that doesn't make a difference ?

For this mod, it shouldn't have much of an effect. I called 'the bit sticking out' a 'tongue'. This is usually done when breeching complex blasters with a bolt sled like Longshots and Sentinels, because the bolt sled carries the breech and it can fall out of alignment. This is unlikely to happen with a small, simple blaster like the Sharpfire.
 

 

and this would be my 1st breach mod what one would YOU recommend ?   
 
Ang Jay also mentions 1/2 inch brass, why is this and is it better to use 1/2 inch brass instead of the 17/32 inch brass ?

I wouldn't recommend doing either one. Breeches are difficult mods that need to be executed very well to even work. You seem fairly new to Nerf. I'd do easier mods and get used to working with brass, then tackle this one.

 

If I were to do one of these, I'd do Walcom's mod. It's easier to build and more likely to perform reliably.

 

1/2" brass has a snug fit on stock darts. 17/32" brass has a snug fit on most Slugs and other Foam Backer Rod-based homemade darts. You will select the barrel diameter that fits your loadout, and select the other brass parts to fit snugly against that. 

 

You shouldn't worry so much, and just buy some materials and see how things fit. Even if you make a massive mistake, this mod only takes $30 of materials.


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#5 The2ndBluesBro

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Posted 14 December 2016 - 09:43 AM

1/2" brass is too small for stock darts and 17/32 is a very tight fit. 9/16 W/tightening rings is the best way to go.
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