Hi Yah's Content

#267289 Best Barrel For Stock Darts?

Posted by Hi Yah on 27 February 2010 - 09:12 PM in Modifications

CPVC drilled out with a 1/2" drill bit.

#268165 Dtb Singling

Posted by Hi Yah on 05 March 2010 - 06:49 PM in Modifications

Why would you ever do this? The only good thing about the dtb is it's rof, which you just got rid of.

#268347 The Coolest Thing...

Posted by Hi Yah on 07 March 2010 - 02:27 PM in General Nerf

As Vacc said, if he can't follow the rules, it's kind of irrelevant.

I am eternally wary of "official" nerf news unless it comes straight from Hasbro by way of a press release or from someone who has demonstrated a relationship in the past, such as OMC, Talio, etc.

Nerf has tried variant screws in the past, as well as just gluing their blaster shells together. I think they recognize that if they can make it, we can unmake it and change it. Therefore I predict that they will stay with the cheaper phillips head screws we have been seeing of late.

But, think of the electric eel, it has triangle screws and there isn't even an internal picture of it. I think these new screws will greatly cut down on the number of modders.

#268363 Longshot Optimal Spring Size/type

Posted by Hi Yah on 07 March 2010 - 05:18 PM in Modifications

When you add springs to your ls make sure to reinforce the boltsled. I have a red bbb spring added to mine and it's great.

#269060 Doubled Recon With Twin Drums

Posted by Hi Yah on 13 March 2010 - 08:13 PM in Modifications

Could you post a write-up on the raider? It's looks damn good! Great job on the recon too!

#269643 A New Petg Breech

Posted by Hi Yah on 19 March 2010 - 06:58 PM in Darts and Barrels

Why not just use e-tape to allow the PETG to slide in the PVC, instead of the brass?

#269717 Sharpshooter I Overhaul

Posted by Hi Yah on 20 March 2010 - 08:30 AM in Modifications

Try having only 1 rubber washer. This should loosen up the seal, I think it has too mich friction giving you crappy ranges.

#270122 How Do I Mod An 'orange Logo Nitefinder'?

Posted by Hi Yah on 23 March 2010 - 08:16 PM in Modifications

The easiest way is to hold it over a lit candle and rotate it until you can remove the AR assembly.

#270354 Washer Based Plunger Heads And Replacement Plunger Tubes - Please Help

Posted by Hi Yah on 26 March 2010 - 06:14 AM in Homemades

The PETG I got from Petco only said "1" thinwall tubing."

#270463 At2k Turret

Posted by Hi Yah on 27 March 2010 - 10:20 AM in Modifications

Dip the barrel side of the turret in boiling water of about 10 seconds. This should soften the glue and the barrels should come out.

#270653 Modding Nitefinder

Posted by Hi Yah on 29 March 2010 - 06:54 AM in Modifications

Pipe cutters are the best way to do it, but seeing that you are a noob, I doubt you have them. Light a candle and rotate the plunger tube over it to soften the glue. Be careful to not kept the plastic.

#271183 Brass Breached Longstrike

Posted by Hi Yah on 03 April 2010 - 07:09 AM in Modifications

Good job. But, what is the purpose of sanding the jam door?

#271508 Dartsmithing Tips Archive

Posted by Hi Yah on 06 April 2010 - 05:13 PM in Darts and Barrels

The thing is some of them were pretty close and others weren't. And it didn't seem to matter if they were straight or not as I checked them before every shot.

How would you recommend getting them centered then?

Ninja focus.

Just make sure the hole is centered and make it a bit smaller so that the weight can't move side to side.

#271670 Dartsmithing Tips Archive

Posted by Hi Yah on 08 April 2010 - 04:52 PM in Darts and Barrels

What I used to do is make the dart normally, but then glue on a 3/8" felt disc to the top. This worked just as good as slug darts, but the materials are easier to get.

#271841 Closed

Posted by Hi Yah on 10 April 2010 - 04:56 PM in Off Topic

If I were you, I wouldn't even be talking about nerf or airsoft. I would probabaly be suspended or maybe even expelled from my high school if I wrote something like that. Try to focus on how nerf is about modding and try not to talk about the game play. This will make nerf seem more about engineering rather than about simulated warfare. I don't think you should be worried about the nerf part; but rather, the airsoft part.

#272215 Dart Door V2

Posted by Hi Yah on 14 April 2010 - 04:27 PM in Darts and Barrels

So, basically it's a doggie door for darts? Nice job.

#272560 Maverick Barrel Removal

Posted by Hi Yah on 18 April 2010 - 12:30 PM in Modifications

I have no idea what you're talking about. If you going to replace the barrels, don't even bother. It is a lot of work and the barrels add too much weight causing rotation issues. The maverick also is too weak to propel a dart fit is tight. Just remove the AR's and close the gun up, anymore is not worth it.

#272850 Titan Problem

Posted by Hi Yah on 20 April 2010 - 09:57 PM in General Nerf

I've heard of people fixing this problem by lubing the pin and then putting goop on it.

#272909 Singled Doubleshot Mod

Posted by Hi Yah on 21 April 2010 - 03:05 PM in Modifications

Black CPVC? I dont think my 1/2" cpvc fits in 3/4" cpvc. Pretty nifty you didn't have to sand the barrel, or bore out the outside of the breech.

1/2" CPVC easily fits inside 3/4 CPVC with little bit of wiggle room.

#273322 Extended Draw, Cpvc Couplered Nite Finder

Posted by Hi Yah on 25 April 2010 - 06:45 PM in Modifications

I have found that wrapping e-tape around the plunger tube where the front of the shell is and then hot gluing the plunger tube in works quite well. It also is easily removable, unlike your method.

#273729 Pump-action Maverick Mod

Posted by Hi Yah on 29 April 2010 - 08:34 PM in Modifications

Congratulations, you made a furyfire with 4 less shots.

#273817 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Hi Yah on 01 May 2010 - 08:47 AM in Modifications

Here's my nitefinder rifle.

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And here's it primed.

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Any questions and comments please PM me.

#273870 Wipeout Plunger Draw Extension

Posted by Hi Yah on 02 May 2010 - 08:49 AM in Modifications

The purpose of this mod was to add a coupler to the wipeout and to increase it's draw length by 1/4".
Here's the gun stock.
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Remove these parts with a pair of locking pliers.
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You should now have this.
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Here are the internals.
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You won't need these pieces, so thrown them out or put them in your scrap box.
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Gut the internals. You should be left with this.
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Take this piece, and remove the rubber with a flat head screwdriver, knife etc.
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If you did it correctly you should get this.
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Take the same piece and bore it out with a 3/8" drill bit
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You should now have this.
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Now, cut a 1.25" piece of CPVC.
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Goop the CPVC into a coupler.
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Now, wrap the CPVC in electrical tape until it fits this piece flush.
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Add some craft foam to the back of the piece that we drilled out earlier for padding. Then, smear some JB welb on top of it.
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#273871 Wipeout Plunger Draw Extension

Posted by Hi Yah on 02 May 2010 - 08:51 AM in Modifications

Now add the coupler on top of the JB weld, try to make it as centered as possible
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Take the plunger and glue the plunger head to it. Then wrap the plunger head with electrical tape until it makes a good seal with the plunger. Put goop into the gas in the plunger head. Then, add some craft foam on top for extra padding.
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Now take a piece of FBR and hot glue it to the shell. Then take a small spring and hot glue it to the foam and the catch.
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Now for the plunger draw extension. Cut about a 1/4" off these rails.
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Then do the same to this part.
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You should get something like this.
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Now, grab the lever and cut off a part on the bottom.
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You should be left with this if you did it correctly.
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Now, add epoxy putty to the catch notch so that it catches when the plunger runs into the spring rest. It would be a lot better to solvent weld some PVC there instead of epoxy putty, but I did this a long time ago.
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Now, make the plunger tube out of the clear tube that comes with epoxy putty. Cut the new plunger tube 1/4" longer than the original one. This tube is a little bit wider than the original plunger tube. Wrap it in electrical so that the coupler assembly fits it snug. The electrical tape also make the plunger tube fit in the shell better and it makes it more rigid.
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Now, assemble the internals and you are finished. Here's the finished product. And yes, that is as far as the lever will go down.
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I know someone will ask for ranges, it shoots very similarly to my BBB which has a recon spring added and a 3/4" long PVC coupler behind the spring. It also performs comparably with a pistolsplat. It shoots through cardboard with ease.
Quesions, comments, flames?

#273894 Wipeout Plunger Draw Extension

Posted by Hi Yah on 02 May 2010 - 01:42 PM in Modifications

Thats awesome. What is blocking the priming bar from traveling all the way down?

The new plunger tube.

#273902 Wipeout Plunger Draw Extension

Posted by Hi Yah on 02 May 2010 - 04:39 PM in Modifications

You just happened to find a tube that fit the plunger head perfectly? Very lucky. Also impressed you got the plunger cap off the plunger tube so cleanly.

The epoxy putty tube is a little bit bigger than the original plunger tube, but it's an easy fix with a bit of e-tape. Do you mean the rubber piece on the plunger cap, or the the plastic rings on the shell?

#273949 Wipeout Plunger Draw Extension

Posted by Hi Yah on 03 May 2010 - 03:45 PM in Modifications

A few flaws that may arise later, but I like this a lot. I'm surprised no one has tried putting homemade plunger tubes and plunger heads in these things.

I actually made this thing about a year ago and the only problem it had was that the epoxy putty on the catch notch would break, next time I'll use PVC and solvent weld. I am gonna try making a new plunger head and plunger tube once I get another one of these.

#273965 Wipeout Plunger Draw Extension

Posted by Hi Yah on 03 May 2010 - 06:02 PM in Modifications

Cool idea. Splats have a pretty short stroke to begin with, so every little bit counts.

I can't say I agree with wrapping etape around the plunger head. If you flare them a bit the first time you open them, and dab some lube on it, it will get a perfect seal. I feel that your method only hurts performance.

I've tried flaring the plunger head before but the seal didn't last too long. My method also eliminates deadspace in the plunger head and I have a great seal.

#273967 Universal Coupler Bbb Write-up

Posted by Hi Yah on 03 May 2010 - 06:12 PM in Modifications

There is no way you can get 100' with the stock plunger head and only a nf spring added. Try adding a 3/4" long PVC coupler behind the spring. I prefer to hotglue CPVC in the coupler assembly and then cut the CPVC coupler in half and glue it in the PVC coupler. This method has less dead space and looks cleaner.

#274039 Big Bad Bow Modding Trouble

Posted by Hi Yah on 04 May 2010 - 09:32 PM in Modifications

You have a tampon on your gun. There's your problem.

#274040 Wipeout Plunger Draw Extension

Posted by Hi Yah on 04 May 2010 - 09:34 PM in Modifications

Cool idea. Splats have a pretty short stroke to begin with, so every little bit counts.

I can't say I agree with wrapping etape around the plunger head. If you flare them a bit the first time you open them, and dab some lube on it, it will get a perfect seal. I feel that your method only hurts performance.

He's not using the stock plunger tube.

Doesn't really matter. E-tape will work for a while, but only until the adhesive begins to give way, and then it will degrade very quickly.

I added suger glue underneath the e-tape. There haven't been any problems.

#274268 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Hi Yah on 07 May 2010 - 08:22 PM in Modifications

Here's a standard big blast that I made a while back.
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It has a 1/2" PVC coupler.
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And here's a pict with a 1' long 1/2" CPVC barrel, nested in a stub of 1/2" PVC. The CPVC has been drilled out with a 1/2" spade bit, for a looser fit on my darts.
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It gets good ranges. I also replace the stock o-ring with a #17 Danco o-ring. The over pressure release valve now kicks in at about 7-8 pumps.

Any questions or comments please PM me.

#274315 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Hi Yah on 08 May 2010 - 07:21 PM in Modifications

A teaser.

Minimization.
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Replacement plunger head.
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Held on with a 6-32 bolt and a nut on the other end.
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1" PETG plunger tube from Petco.
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The new plunger head not only gives a better seal, it also increases plunger volume. I would estimate that the new plunger head adds 1/4" plunger travel. Yes, there will be a write up. And, yes this will get a plunger draw extension, just like in my previous write-up.

#274322 Barrel Length Guide . . .

Posted by Hi Yah on 08 May 2010 - 08:51 PM in Modifications

For your nf barrel lenghts I would recommend 4"-4.5" for CPVC. And about 5" if you're using brass. Brass isn't as tight as CPVC. And PETG is in between CPVC and brass.

#274323 Externally Singled Hornet (for Power)

Posted by Hi Yah on 08 May 2010 - 08:57 PM in Modifications

Okay, im the noobiest person on this forum and have a hornet that id like to single. So at the part in where you make the breech, could you lighten that up for me or someone help me on how to do that exactly.

Any help appreciated.

Ty.

To make a breach you take your barrel sheath and cut out a section of it to fit your darts. Then you cut your barrel to your desired length. Depending on the material of your sheath and barrel you might have to modify your barrel or sheath to have them fit properly. I know that this isn't detailed but this should give you the jist of making a basic breach.

#274913 Wipeout Plunger Draw Extension

Posted by Hi Yah on 16 May 2010 - 09:52 AM in Modifications

UPDATE: homemade plunger head

Materials:
1" OD 3/8" ID rubber washer
3/4" OD 1/8" ID washers
#6-32 bolt 3/4" long
#6-32 nut
#8-32 washer

First, cut the nub on the plunger.
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Then drill it.
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Tap it with a #6-32 tapping bit.
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Assemble your plunger head. Put the #8-32 washer inside the rubber washer. Then sandwich the rubber washer between the 2 3/4" washers.
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Put the new plunger head on the plunger and thread the #6-32 bolt onto the plunger.
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Add a #6-32 nut on the bolt for added strength.
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Now all you have to do is put the new finished plunger rod into the original plunger tube. The new plunger head gives about 3/16" added travel and it improves the seal greatly. I also added a 1/4" PEX spacer behind the spring. This mod gives about the same added volume as my original mod, but it is also a lot stronger and easier. All credit of the plunger head goes to venom213.

#274947 Guide To Barrel Material

Posted by Hi Yah on 16 May 2010 - 04:33 PM in Modifications

Hello I need some Measurements of Brass Pipes and would be thankful if Someone could provide them.Why? You ask it´s simple:I live in Germany and we use the Metric System here so measurements in inches are of no use to me(Due to variations in conversion ratios).I need the ID´s, OD´s and Wall thicknesses(in Millimetres) of 1/2", 17/32" 9/16" and 19/32" Brass.
Thank You in advance
Borgadin

Why don't you just bring one of your darts to a store that sells brass and get the size that fits your darts good.

#274962 I Need Help

Posted by Hi Yah on 16 May 2010 - 06:06 PM in Modifications

Just use a rubber washer to create the seal. That's what Ryan201821 used on his rear loading DTG/AT3k integration.

#274990 Wipeout Plunger Draw Extension

Posted by Hi Yah on 16 May 2010 - 08:46 PM in Modifications

Nice.

Then drill it.
What size bit?

The new plunger head gives about 3/16" added travel and it improves the seal greatly. I also added a 1/4" PEX spacer behind the spring. This mod gives about the same added volume as my original mod, but it is also a lot stronger and easier.
Are you talking about if you did this mod alone, or if done in conjunction with your extended draw mod?

I don't know the size of the bit, but I can check, it came with my tapping bit and it's slightly smaller in diameter. I was talking about if you did the mod alone. If you had the homemade plunger head with the plunger draw extension you would get 1/2" added volume, but that would be complete overkill, it shoots ridiculous as is.

#275060 The Reconbow

Posted by Hi Yah on 17 May 2010 - 04:04 PM in Modifications

I find that with homemade plunger heads having the smaller washer in front and the larger in the back helps create a sort of cup shape. Aside from that nice job.

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