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Dtb Singling

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#1 vicious foam

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 06:43 PM

When I was in the middle of a Dart Tag Blaster (A.K.A. DTB, DTG, and Hyper Fire) modification, I lost the spring that pushes the nozzle thing at the front of the plunger tube flush with the turret. Being stubborn as I am, I created a mod that makes that piece irrelevant. It is kind of like a singled DTB. Ok, so let’s get to the mod.

Step 1: Opening the gun:

On the shell of the DTB, there should be 13-18 screws plus 3 on the cocking mechanism (which you can throw away), all of which you must unscrew to get the gun open.

Step 2: Eliminating useless pieces:

Once you open you DTB up, you should see a bunch of parts. It is very easy for anyone remotely experienced at modding to see how the blaster works. The bar on the cocking mech pushes the plunger rod back. The catch catches the rod using an indent on the rod. The trigger then releases the catch simultaneously turning the turret to make the whole blaster fire.
Now, when ‘singling’ a DTB, you can throw away all the parts necessary to make the turret turn. All of those useless parts are shown here:

Posted Image

Throw all of that away.
Step 3: Brass addition:

Here’s where things get tricky, but bare with me. You’re going to take a piece of 9/16 brass and wedge it onto the front of the plunger tube. It will be a tight fit, but it works well. Now, take a piece of 17/32 brass and slide it in there until it hits the bottom. Make sure that there is a little of the 17/32 brass sticking out of the 9/16. Glue the 17/32 in. Glue the 9/16 to the plunger tube. Make sure it is AS STRAIGHT AS POSSIBLE!


Posted Image

Step 4: Shaving the shell:

One problem I encountered during the process of the modification was that the 9/16 brass doesn’t fit in the shell correctly. The things in the way are these little boogers.


Posted Image

Well, Ok the blurry cloud with a bunch of arrows poking at it doesn’t explain much, I know. Just shave down the shell until a piece of 9/16 brass can it in there.



Ok, so it should look something like this when you are done.


Posted Image


Step 5: Spring addition + plunger rod makeover:

When I was trying to add a spring to the plunger rod on the DTB, a problem arose. There was a curve at the end of the plunger that was ‘necessary’ for the proper functioning of the gun. In an attempt to squeeze a new spring on, I snapped my plunger rod. Luckily I had a replacement! I still wanted that new spring on that sucker though.
To get the spring on, I had to rework the majority of the steps involved in cocking the blaster. Rather than cocking mech to plunger rod to catch, I made it key ring to plunger rod to catch. That key ring will pop out of the back of the blaster where a little silver/gray piece is.
To do that, you must cut off the curved part right where it straightens out. I mean exactly where it straightens out. Not a centimeter to the side. Next drill a hole near the end of the plunger rod and put your wire through. Tie a key ring on and shebang, you got yourself a new plunger.


Posted Image



Step 6: Catch spring replacement:

Well, this should be obvious and easy to do. Due to your new spring power, you need more catch power to back it up. Add your spare spring and your done.



The wrap up:

After you are finished and you put everything in its place, it should look like this. I recommend gluing the 9/16 to the shell for more stability.



Posted Image


This mod was designed for stock darts, as that’s what I use.

All the shots hit a 45 feet away wall when fired flat easily.


Outdoor range test (flat):

71.3
71.2
70.6
75.2
69.8
72.1
71.3
71.4
72.1
75.3
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#2 Hi Yah

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 06:49 PM

Why would you ever do this? The only good thing about the dtb is it's rof, which you just got rid of.
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The yellow balls are also slightly smaller in diameter than the green ones.

#3 nerfer9

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 06:54 PM

I lost the spring that pushes the nozzle thing at the front of the plunger tube flush with the turret.


He lost the spring dude. You don't have to be a dick about it.
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#4 bleachmaniac

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 09:35 PM

If his range tests are accurate, this means that the DTB can reach a potential of a minimum of sixty feet with the turret with a proper seal improvement, something that I haven't seen and would like to see done.

Why shouldn't the seal created by Hasbro on the FuryFire seal be applied on the DTB ?
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#5 moosa

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 11:23 PM

If his range tests are accurate, this means that the DTB can reach a potential of a minimum of sixty feet with the turret with a proper seal improvement, something that I haven't seen and would like to see done.

Why shouldn't the seal created by Hasbro on the FuryFire seal be applied on the DTB ?


Haha. Don't ask why Nerf doesn't make their blasters more powerful. :lol:
A seal improvement on the DTB has been done, and you can get great ranges out of it with the turret in place. Search for it.

Nice job with your mod. I think what bleachmaniac was alluding to is that it might have been a good idea to try and recreate a seal rather than getting rid of the turret, but oh well. How good is your air seal? And were your streamlines completely stock?

Edited by moosa, 05 March 2010 - 11:28 PM.

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Yes.

#6 vicious foam

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 07:33 AM

If his range tests are accurate, this means that the DTB can reach a potential of a minimum of sixty feet with the turret with a proper seal improvement, something that I haven't seen and would like to see done.

Why shouldn't the seal created by Hasbro on the FuryFire seal be applied on the DTB ?


Haha. Don't ask why Nerf doesn't make their blasters more powerful. :lol:
A seal improvement on the DTB has been done, and you can get great ranges out of it with the turret in place. Search for it.

Nice job with your mod. I think what bleachmaniac was alluding to is that it might have been a good idea to try and recreate a seal rather than getting rid of the turret, but oh well. How good is your air seal? And were your streamlines completely stock?


Yes my streamlines were right out of an ammo box. The ammo box was not new, but most darts were yet to be used. I checked for any minor or major blemishes.

Its a "tight fit" to get the 9/16 on and I made a hot glue seal, the 17/32 fits snuggly in the barrel. In a war I had with my friends yesterday the 17/32 fell out, so I wrapped tape aroung the 17/32 until it was both airtight and removable. In conclusion, if it wasn't airtight before, im pretty sure it is now.


In Hi Yah!'s message (which I forgot to quote) he says that that there is no point in taking away the turret as it
decreases the rof.

What I was thinking of and meaning to ask soon is, is it a good idea to minimize this? I would plug up the holes with A LOT of epoxy, but I think it would work.
In my imagination, I could get it small enough to fit in my pocket.
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#7 bleachmaniac

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 07:28 PM

It's really up to you. It's your toy.

In my opinion, I think that you should have glued a piece of CPVC or brass in front of the plunger tube to seal it to the turret. This has been done on HeretiCorps BigBlast DTB integration.

On a side note, since I do not own a FuryFire and can not see the difference in internal pictures, how does the seal on a FuryFire differ from that of a DTB ? Can I modify my DTB to have that kind of seal ?
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#8 Broderick

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 11:27 PM

So... you basically made a bulkier, slightly more powerful nightfinder?
Nah, I'm just pulling your leg. Way to improvise a bad situation, it's happened to me on more than one occasion. You really should get a better glue than Hot Glue though. All it's truly good for is filling space, making darts, and slightly reinforcing things. But even then, thin metal plate is better for the latter task. Since you said the spring was powerful enough to snap the original plunger rod, I think that you might want to reinforce the front of the plunger tube just in case, to prolong the life of this blaster with maybe some aluminum plate and craft foam on the plunger head.
Another thing you could do to really make this a worthwhile (and mildly compact) primary is integrate a smaller blaster into all that empty space. Hell, you could probably fit at least a 2K in there, and since you ripped out the rotation mechanism for the turret, you have what, like 3 inches of extra space in there? Nice.

Edited by Broderick, 06 March 2010 - 11:28 PM.

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#9 Twig Ee

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 01:34 AM

That kind of ruins the point of the gun by singling. Perhaps you should integrate it into another blaster to make it a worthwhile gun.

That was a good way to improvise in a situation like that though.
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-TwigEe, Thank you for tolerating me :)

#10 vicious foam

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 07:35 AM

So... you basically made a bulkier, slightly more powerful nightfinder?
Nah, I'm just pulling your leg. Way to improvise a bad situation, it's happened to me on more than one occasion. You really should get a better glue than Hot Glue though. All it's truly good for is filling space, making darts, and slightly reinforcing things. But even then, thin metal plate is better for the latter task. Since you said the spring was powerful enough to snap the original plunger rod, I think that you might want to reinforce the front of the plunger tube just in case, to prolong the life of this blaster with maybe some aluminum plate and craft foam on the plunger head.
Another thing you could do to really make this a worthwhile (and mildly compact) primary is integrate a smaller blaster into all that empty space. Hell, you could probably fit at least a 2K in there, and since you ripped out the rotation mechanism for the turret, you have what, like 3 inches of extra space in there? Nice.


You got me, for a second I thought that whole post was telling me what a crap job I did. I know hot glue isn't the best, especially for this situation, but I'm new to modding in ways other than removng the AR and adding a spring. I'm testing to find the best glue (I like the 'scientific method') right now. I may open it up and do a bit reiforcing on everything. But I didn't say the spring was powerful enough to snap the PR I said that I was powerful enough to snap the PR. I snapped it, not the spring. (On accident of course, I'm not an insne plunger rod murderer)
I was thinking about an integration last night. I've never done a real genuin integration before, so I think it would be interesting. One question: where can I get a 2/3 K? I hear that people integrate them all the time but, before I bring my wrath of destruction down on the DTG, I want to know what they are.
Are they air guns?
Or are they springers?
How are the ranges for how many pumps? (If they are air guns)
How are the ranges to cock and shoot? (If they are springers)
What do you recomend as a good number of pumps? (I think you get it)
Is 17/32 brass a good barrel material for streamlines in them?
And where can I get them?


I'm not looking to turn this topic from my mod into what a 2/3k is, just one person answer as many questions as you can. Do not answer the same questions twice unless that person was wrong. Read the posts above yours before you post please!

Edited by vicious foam, 07 March 2010 - 07:51 AM.

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#11 polycarb

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 07:54 AM

You got me, for a second I thought that whole post was telling me what a crap job I did. I know hot glue isn't the best, especially for this situation, but I'm new to modding in ways other than removng the AR and adding a spring. I'm testing to find the best glue (I like the 'scientific method') right now. I may open it up and do a bit reiforcing on everything. I can hear either the catch or the plunger rod is about to brake.
I was thinking about that last night. I've never done a real genuin integration before, so I think it would be interesting. One question: where can I get a 2/3 K? I hear that people integrate them all the time but, before I bring my wrath of destruction down on the DTG, I want to know what they are.
You can buy a 2/3K from a member here, or check e-bay.
Are they air guns?
Or are they springers?
How are the ranges for how many pumps? (If they are air guns)
How are the ranges to cock and shoot? (If they are springers)
What do you recomend as a good number of pumps? (I think you get it)
Is 17/32 brass a good barrel material for streamlines in them?
And where can I get them?

EDIT: answered another question.


I'm not looking to turn this topic from my mod into what a 2/3k is, just one person answer as many questions as you can. Do not answer the same questions twice unless that person was wrong. Read the posts above yours before you post please!

They are both air guns.
A 3k with its stock pump can only achieve 70's. With a hornet or Magstrike pump(and good tank to turret seal), It can hit up to 150ft.
I have never owned a 2k :( , so I can't help you there.
For the 2k, 4-5 pumps is good.
For the 3k, 3-4 pumps is good.
With these blasters, you will want a loose 8-12 in barrel, depending on the pump that you use. I have never used 17/32 brass, so I don't know its fit on streamlines.

Edited by polycarb, 07 March 2010 - 07:55 AM.

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#12 SerpentofSet

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 12:55 PM

You really should get a better glue than Hot Glue though.

I dunno, I think the best point of hot glue is the ability to put it on en masse. You can't do that with epoxy.
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Whenever I'm bored, I go onto NerfHaven and start reading the closed threads with a last post by VACC.

#13 vicious foam

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 03:31 PM


You got me, for a second I thought that whole post was telling me what a crap job I did. I know hot glue isn't the best, especially for this situation, but I'm new to modding in ways other than removng the AR and adding a spring. I'm testing to find the best glue (I like the 'scientific method') right now. I may open it up and do a bit reiforcing on everything. I can hear either the catch or the plunger rod is about to brake.
I was thinking about that last night. I've never done a real genuin integration before, so I think it would be interesting. One question: where can I get a 2/3 K? I hear that people integrate them all the time but, before I bring my wrath of destruction down on the DTG, I want to know what they are.
You can buy a 2/3K from a member here, or check e-bay.
Are they air guns?
Or are they springers?
How are the ranges for how many pumps? (If they are air guns)
How are the ranges to cock and shoot? (If they are springers)
What do you recomend as a good number of pumps? (I think you get it)
Is 17/32 brass a good barrel material for streamlines in them?
And where can I get them?

EDIT: answered another question.


I'm not looking to turn this topic from my mod into what a 2/3k is, just one person answer as many questions as you can. Do not answer the same questions twice unless that person was wrong. Read the posts above yours before you post please!

They are both air guns.
A 3k with its stock pump can only achieve 70's. With a hornet or Magstrike pump(and good tank to turret seal), It can hit up to 150ft.
I have never owned a 2k :( , so I can't help you there.
For the 2k, 4-5 pumps is good.
For the 3k, 3-4 pumps is good.
With these blasters, you will want a loose 8-12 in barrel, depending on the pump that you use. I have never used 17/32 brass, so I don't know its fit on streamlines.


What is the point of having 2 guns that shoot 70s? And why pump for that 70 ft shot when you can simply cock for it? I think that a 3k isn't powerful enough, not without those hornet/magrstrike tanks, neither of which are available to me. :(
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#14 Broderick

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 08:29 PM

An airtech 2000 is just a compact gun that has a low volume, but high pressure output of air that can get ranges of ~100 feet. Maybe more if you completely overhauled EVERYTHING, but eh. I don't see much of a point in having more than 75 effective feet of range. Anything more is just overkill in my opinion. The airtech 3000 is like a beefed up AT2K that has a 6 shot auto-rotate turret as opposed to a 4 shot manual.
The point of 2 guns that have 70 foot ranges is basically a back-up shot. You may or may not have been to an organized nerf war yet, but if you've ever been to one you'd know that a single shot gun like this is not good as a primary. Just another thing to add though; avoid the whole trial-and-error method when starting out on modifcations... I learned that the hard way. And by hard way I mean the expensive way. Learn from other people's mistakes, not your own. :)
And to answer SerpentofSet's response, hot glue yes, is good to put on in masses, but that's also its biggest downfall. (Apart from it's bad air sealing qualities) The thing about Amazing Goop or Epoxy being better is that you get better stregnth with much less volume, making a much cleaner product. Epoxy isn't a good sealant though, just FYI.
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#15 vicious foam

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 07:22 AM

An airtech 2000 is just a compact gun that has a low volume, but high pressure output of air that can get ranges of ~100 feet. Maybe more if you completely overhauled EVERYTHING, but eh. I don't see much of a point in having more than 75 effective feet of range. Anything more is just overkill in my opinion. The airtech 3000 is like a beefed up AT2K that has a 6 shot auto-rotate turret as opposed to a 4 shot manual.
The point of 2 guns that have 70 foot ranges is basically a back-up shot. You may or may not have been to an organized nerf war yet, but if you've ever been to one you'd know that a single shot gun like this is not good as a primary. Just another thing to add though; avoid the whole trial-and-error method when starting out on modifcations... I learned that the hard way. And by hard way I mean the expensive way. Learn from other people's mistakes, not your own. :lol:
And to answer SerpentofSet's response, hot glue yes, is good to put on in masses, but that's also its biggest downfall. (Apart from it's bad air sealing qualities) The thing about Amazing Goop or Epoxy being better is that you get better stregnth with much less volume, making a much cleaner product. Epoxy isn't a good sealant though, just FYI.


Ok, im definately getting the AT3K then. I need some hire ROF on this thing. As to what you said about a single shot not being good as a primary, I didn't intend this weapon to be a primary. I was intending to possible minimize it to fit in my pocket. Now that I think about it though, I do need more options in the way of primaries. Soon I'll be getting a BBB, and I'm working on a shotgun grip LS, but I don't have anything else.

So a DTB-AT3K integration.

One question: Where can a find a 3k?

Acually, one more question: How many pumps for the 100 ft ranges on the 3k?

Edited by vicious foam, 08 March 2010 - 08:40 PM.

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