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#256948 Official Steam/pc Gaming Thread

Posted by Possemhunter on 21 November 2009 - 05:18 PM in Off Topic

Glad you fixed it. Is the game only for x-box ? I'd like to find out cause if it's better than the first.. Wow it must be good!



#243655 Guess The Amount.

Posted by Possemhunter on 24 July 2009 - 06:47 PM in Off Topic

$53.23



#295665 Bs-12 Advanced Tactical Nerf Rifle

Posted by Possemhunter on 09 March 2011 - 04:21 PM in Homemades

That's what happens when people with machine shops also nerf. No one compares to what you do.

What I find interesting is that I have literally come up with plans for a nerf gun that functions completely identically.
I'd have posted pictures of my designs but everyone hates idea threads around here, (which is one reason why I haven't been around here much lately.) I've just never been able to build them for lack of a metal lathe. I have access to a metal lathe now in school, so just maybe I'll take a shot at building something.



#225248 The Cyclops

Posted by Possemhunter on 23 April 2009 - 10:44 AM in Modifications

That is so clean! I like it alot. Good job. :lol:



#280714 Stampede: Leaked

Posted by Possemhunter on 19 July 2010 - 06:46 PM in General Nerf

Okkkay... Wow I missed the other thread. I guess it must have been wearing camo. I can't believe its right on the front page too.

I misspoke. Apologies.



#280703 Stampede: Leaked

Posted by Possemhunter on 19 July 2010 - 04:09 PM in General Nerf

OOOOOPPPSSSSIIIEESSSS



#239889 N-strike Clipped Pas

Posted by Possemhunter on 02 July 2009 - 08:21 PM in Modifications

Simply amazing! Are you submitting that to the modification contest?



#237174 My New Ls Mod

Posted by Possemhunter on 18 June 2009 - 02:53 PM in Modifications

Ohh my gosh........... That is scary. You could win a nerf war just by showing that thing to the other team. Plus they can't tell where on earth your actually aiming it. Ranges? It also looks a bit front heavy. As long as it's functional, good job. Just try to make future mods a tiny bit cleaner.



#255897 Recon Cs-6 And Ertl Rapid Fire Shot Gun Mod

Posted by Possemhunter on 10 November 2009 - 05:05 PM in Modifications

You sir are a magician! This calls for a song! Too bad I can't think of one.



#294396 Too Much Friction

Posted by Possemhunter on 11 February 2011 - 09:11 PM in Modifications

If there's that much friction, have you considered smaller o rings?



#236773 Bladder Indicator Light.

Posted by Possemhunter on 16 June 2009 - 02:56 PM in Modifications

Very nice. So simple yet practical. Good job



#242790 Nerf Raider Cs-35

Posted by Possemhunter on 19 July 2009 - 07:39 PM in General Nerf

Hasbro copied us with the "N- Strike Flip Clip." I can't wait till they start making minus bows (-bow)

Edit- Someone beat me to it with the flip clip



#234976 The Ultimate Doubleshot

Posted by Possemhunter on 08 June 2009 - 01:43 PM in Modifications

Awww Man... I thought you really had a good double shot mod! Aren't I gullible?



#234177 Full Crossbow Modification

Posted by Possemhunter on 03 June 2009 - 06:20 PM in Modifications

Beautiful work! I love the paint job. Simple but so clean.



#245575 Which Way Do I Go?

Posted by Possemhunter on 05 August 2009 - 07:13 AM in General Nerf

The first option looks the best and easiest. Adding longer barrels cosmetic barrels just decreases range.



#241136 Crossbows

Posted by Possemhunter on 09 July 2009 - 05:51 PM in General Nerf

It's called a free market. No one has the right to stop you from selling something for as much as you want to. This doesn't mean that someone will buy what you are selling, it just means no one has the right to judge and set limits to the what you think the value of something is. Crossbows have a good reputation so people will have to spend money to get one. I personally would never spend that much money on a crossbow because I don't have 200 dollars to play around with and a toy dart gun is not on my high priority list in life. Other people are different and it's a personal choice how important something is to you and what you will do to get it.



#235867 Dart Problem

Posted by Possemhunter on 12 June 2009 - 04:11 PM in General Nerf

Just how many layers of e tape did you use for the plunger? It should be enough so that you can hold the plunger in and blow in the barrel without any leaks yet loose enough to slide faily easily. Also, lube the plunger.



#235208 Bolt Action Bbbb Breeched To Accept Mags

Posted by Possemhunter on 09 June 2009 - 02:31 PM in Modifications

Nice work, but yes, be more detailed in your write up. An easy way to have nice pictures is to make a freewebs website to host them on. You can upload pics to an album on that website from your computer then put the url of the picture in in your post over here. It's what I do for all my posts.



#231512 Help! Painting Stefans

Posted by Possemhunter on 20 May 2009 - 04:29 PM in Modifications

Just use Glow in the dark hot glue


That stuff is sick! I would love to have effective tracer darts!



#232524 Nerf Grenade, Pretty Sure This Is An Original Idea

Posted by Possemhunter on 25 May 2009 - 07:27 PM in Homemades

Could you be more detailed? I don't get it. If possible draw another diagram of how this works.



#256396 Semi-automatic Valve

Posted by Possemhunter on 15 November 2009 - 09:14 PM in Modifications

I love how you did this. This has to be the simplest semi auto configuration I've seen that looks like it works. Great job.



#319047 A handy dandy pistol

Posted by Possemhunter on 23 July 2012 - 07:04 PM in Homemades

Hello all

Haven't been around for a while. Nerfing had been largely forgotten by me for a while. I got into machining, metal casting and other fun "big people" things.

But then I was given a Make magazine and saw their homemade launcher and decided to see if I could combine nerf and my new tools.

The result was a nice single shot pistol.

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In the next one, you can sort of see the catch. I don't know if this type of catch has caught on yet or not, but a while ago, everyone still used clothespin catches. This catch is simple and dead reliable. A metal plate is just pulled inwards towards the plunger rod by the small spring. Pulling the trigger drives a wedge between the frame and the boot of the catch, pushing it out of the notch in the plunger rod.
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Here is the plunger head and rod. Both were machined by me of course, along with everything else. The plunger is 3/8 steel. The rod is rather heavy, but I used a nice spring and the ranges are great anyway. I have made aluminum rods before, but the catch notch rounds over and becomes unreliable.
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Here is the plunger assembly. The spring rest on the rear later had a shoulder machined into it to center the spring. The mounts for the catch and catch spring are drilled and tapped into the rear of that piece.
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This is the barrel assembly. The forward center is recessed for the cpvc, so on one side I drilled it 17/64 for a dart, and on the other, 5/8 for the cpvc.

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This is the rear center. It has one diameter turned that fits tightly into the 1" outer sheath, providing an airtight seal for the plunger tube to the rear. It was drilled through for the 5/8 cpvc, so that it could be coated with sealer and stay secure.

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The barrel and the plunger all fit into 1" pvc, which for the purposes of explanation, I will call the upper receiver. This 1" PVC acts as the plunger tube and barrel sheath. It also provides the mounting points for the pieces.

The lower receiver...
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Not much to look at. The grip is screwed on. I replaced those pictures screws with flatheads for the trigger plate to pass over.

Trigger and trigger plate. In this picture, the original mounting rivet was falling out. I re-drilled and tapped the hole for a small machine screw.
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The business end. From dead on, you don't see the cpvc.
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Other notes

All the centering pieces were drilled and tapped to mount to the 1" PVC. You can see all the screws along the top and bottom of the upper receiver.

The "sight" at the rear is held on by one of the same bolts that goes into the spring rest.

If you look at this picture again, you see the lug about midway, just where the lower receiver starts. This is 2 pieces of PVC solvent welded on. It gives a good spot for the lower receiver to attach.
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If anyone wants more detail, please ask. I didn't make this a real writeup as you need a lathe to make most of the parts. From all the draconian measures that I see going on around here, I assume many of the users are about 12, and don't have lathes. But once again, if you would like more info, just ask.


Ranges haven't been officially measured. Shooting level, it breaks 50 feet easy with a good snug dart.

I will hopefully have some videos of the range test and construction up within a few days. Bandwidth permitting.


Questions, comments, concerns?



#319052 A handy dandy pistol

Posted by Possemhunter on 23 July 2012 - 07:25 PM in Homemades

Like I said, it breaks 50 feet because its passing an object I know to be 50 feet away. It is going much further.

Oh, another note, all of my stefans have been eaten by the lawnmower...

My plan for the plunger is to thread it and and turn a nice, easy-to-grip knob. Maybe I will knurl it. The possibilities are endless.

The catch:

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Why its sideways, I know not.

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Instead of the vertical motion of a conventional catch, this one pivots out of the way to the side.



Hope that helps.



#319109 A handy dandy pistol

Posted by Possemhunter on 24 July 2012 - 04:02 PM in Homemades

Thank you Langley. I will attend to that location shortly as well.

If anyone has anything else constructive, please comment.



#319084 A handy dandy pistol

Posted by Possemhunter on 24 July 2012 - 10:55 AM in Homemades

I just want people to stop using the wrong materials. This community of homemade builders has matured a lot in the last couple of years. Collaboration has become the norm, and we are coming up with some awesome stuff because of it. But use of metals makes homemade shift toward paintball and airsoft, rather than nerf. They have their place, specifically in pressurized applications, but otherwise are overkill.



Why care what its made of? It still shoots foam and is never going to wear out or break on me. Plastics get brittle. Metal will not in this situation.
There is lots of pressure on these parts anyway. Maybe not air pressure, but a spring.

For me, this was a chance to test out new tools and materials. I think everyone should try to get the most out of their capabilities and tools. The material was also free. The aluminum came from scrap lawn mower engines that were poured into castings. The waste sprues became my stock for turning.



#319078 A handy dandy pistol

Posted by Possemhunter on 24 July 2012 - 09:19 AM in Homemades

I got out my tape measures and took some test shots after lubing the gun. I lubed to plunger of course as well as the spring rest where the plunger rod is guided.

Taggers that fit a bit loose were going about 53 feet.

My very poorly made stefans from years ago were going 55 feet.

The best darts I have right now (just getting back into nerf) are cut down streamlines. They are 2.5 inches long and fit very snugly. I ramrodded those down the barrel. Shots were consistently hitting and passing 83 feet. These streamlines do not have the obnoxiously large hole in them for some reason ( just a pinprick that was loaded facing upwards), so they were quite accurate. There was no erratic flight path. I think I could easily hit someone that far away.

I'm very happy with 83 feet from this pistol. A better plunger rod would no doubt get me into the 90's.

To give some more specs I will say that the draw is 2.25 inches. The spring is a replacement from Joseph Fazzio's, the most amazing hardware store/ steel depot/ industrial supplier ever. I might have the package somewhere for a part number.



#319063 A handy dandy pistol

Posted by Possemhunter on 23 July 2012 - 10:29 PM in Homemades

You could easily replace most of that steel plunger rod with aluminum, particularly if you turned it so two aluminum pieces threaded into a steel catch piece.

I also strongly suggest you try 4568T14 as a barrel material. The tolerances are much tighter, it's hard anodized (pretty), and 6063 is actually really nice to turn, if you have carbide tooling to break the anodized layer. The hole is also held concentric to the OD, unlike CPVC or the other common aluminum barrel material from McMaster. I use 6" of each on my aluminum barrels, press-fit together, and it works like a charm.

You could also invest a little in some Mother's aluminum polish and spin your parts up to 1500-2000 RPM on a lathe, then hold a piece of a paper towel with polish on it against the part, as you would with emery cloth. It gives an almost mirror finish. Automotive wax will protect that finish and prevent oxidation.



That is and idea, to thread a steel piece in. I will try to suck every bit of efficiency else where first, but I'll remember this. Heavy plunger rods never help.

I am only using HSS bits. I have heard that if you get under the layer in one pass, any bit will work. Is this true?



The catch does work extremely well. It takes up very little space and isn't prone to breaking at all. Since the catch lays flat against the spring rest, that takes all the force from both sides, which makes for a VERY sturdy build. Spring pushes against one side and catch against the other.



#257716 Mav Help

Posted by Possemhunter on 01 December 2009 - 05:30 PM in Modifications

You might want to work on the seal in the plunger. And I'm not sure if the gun will cock with 4 pennies. There might not be enough room for the spring to compress.



#235210 Tech Target Brass Breach

Posted by Possemhunter on 09 June 2009 - 02:37 PM in Modifications

XRUSHEDX: It probably does, but its extremely close to airtight, so if it does at all, it will be a small amount. I will probably post ranges when I get rubberbands for it.

Possemhunter: The opening on the plunger tube is about the size of a screwdriver head, so the dart cannot fit through. It really doesn't matter what order you cock/load its really up to the person using the gun. Personally, I normally cock right before I fire, like as i'm pulling the gun out of a holster, so the spring doesn't get to compressed.

MOD_FREAK: Thanks, thats why I love nested brass and PEX tubing. I might drill holes in the PEX to make it look like a flash-hider.

ilzot: Mine used to vacuum load, but somehow I screwed it up. This is a good mod if you cant get it to vacuum load.

Thanks I get it now. I wonder if you could do this to any other guns. The night finder doesn't have enough shell around the barrel to do this do. At least a think.



#235045 Tech Target Brass Breach

Posted by Possemhunter on 08 June 2009 - 07:01 PM in Modifications

Nice work. I'm a bit confused though. Do you cock the gun regularly, then pull out the 17/32 portion to open it, then put a dart in and push the 17/32 back in? What keeped the dart from going into the plunger tube.



#257734 Mav Help

Posted by Possemhunter on 01 December 2009 - 07:33 PM in Modifications

You might want to work on the seal in the plunger. And I'm not sure if the gun will cock with 4 pennies. There might not be enough room for the spring to compress.


The seal IN the plunger? Not quite sure what you mean by that... Actually, the gun does cock just fine.


Where the outer plunger seals with the inner plunger.



#247854 Great Dart Giveaway

Posted by Possemhunter on 20 August 2009 - 05:36 PM in General Nerf

It's only in the U.S and the gun you buy must be $20 to enter.



#278882 Vacuum Forming And Nerf

Posted by Possemhunter on 28 June 2010 - 02:42 PM in Homemades

I see a lot of potential with this idea, but it has one major drawback. The inside of those shells is sooo complicated with all the plugs for the screws and mounting points for internals. If you could find a way to replicate the inside, I would be very impressed. If you could use the piece you just made to make a plaster version as a negative mold and then make another negative mold for the inside, you could put the 2 halves together and pour molten plastic in with some sort of pressurizer to fill all the nooks in the mold. Complicated but if you could get the process down, easy. (hopefully)



#235667 Ultra Dumb Ls. Halp!

Posted by Possemhunter on 11 June 2009 - 04:03 PM in Modifications

Wait, do you have the stock barrel in? Okay I bet you took out the dart tooth. You need that piece. It pushes the dart into the bolt. Refer to this pictureLonghsot internal guide



#235961 Brass Breech Problem

Posted by Possemhunter on 13 June 2009 - 11:07 AM in Modifications

If you use pipe cutters, there is a large flange left behind. File that off with a round file.. I prefer to use a dremmel to cut brass because it leaves less of a flange behind and is a zillion times quicker. You still have to file a bit though.



#290954 How To Expand A 2k Tank

Posted by Possemhunter on 15 December 2010 - 06:39 PM in Modifications

You could probably compensate for the slower air delivery with longer barrels.



#239282 Titan Cluster Missile

Posted by Possemhunter on 29 June 2009 - 05:57 PM in Modifications

I'll try to get a video of it. However my cameras card is full of priceless memories right now. Maybe tomorrow. How do you even post videos. Is it just like picture?



#239370 Titan Cluster Missile

Posted by Possemhunter on 30 June 2009 - 06:19 AM in Modifications

soccerbeast, you perfectly replicated my results. Thanks for doing the video.



#239390 Titan Cluster Missile

Posted by Possemhunter on 30 June 2009 - 10:19 AM in Modifications

That's not how TOW Missiles work at all. The wire sends corrective information to the missile via the wire so that the missile changes course and can hit a moving target. For me, my missile is actually practical in nerf wars in my backyard. My friends usually go up onto a second story deck and barricade it, so it's good for me to have something I can shoot up there that will scatter a lot of darts quickly.

does it really matter how ugly it is( which compared to some things here it isn't). It is functional and for me that is all that matters. Would giving it a fancy paintjob make it work any better?



#233446 Maverick 2000 Help

Posted by Possemhunter on 30 May 2009 - 03:46 PM in Modifications

The problem with using a ball valve of nothing at all is that each successive shot with have less power.


If you use a large external air tank the power will go down very slowly, as much more air is required to change the PSI in the tank. I could see you getting easily 30 shots out of a decently sized air tank with only a max deviation in range of 5 to 10 feet or so.

Something the size as one of Slug's backpack air tanks (not referring to his HPA tanks here) could probably get you a bit short of one hundred or so.

Edit: Don't shoot squirrels.


Do you think a titan tank would be suitable for this? I have one to use.