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There have been 113 items by SorrowX (Search limited from 18-January 97)
#167535 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by SorrowX on 09 August 2008 - 01:24 AM in Modifications
#200263 Nerfhaven Modification Directory
Posted by SorrowX on 01 January 2009 - 04:45 PM in Modifications
EDIT: fuck, I didn't read, Damn it...
#246598 Raider Cs-35: Overview / Overhaul
Posted by SorrowX on 11 August 2009 - 04:49 PM in Modifications
First off, study and memorize this picture. (picture of internals courtesy of SPV999)
For slam fire, the trigger would be depressed, pushing the nub on part 1 of catch system part way up(Part one of catch system will be from now on referred to as 'P1'). As the user primes the blaster, the forward nub on the boltsled presses down and locks the top-side triangular piece depressed as the plunger tube catches on P2( part 2 of the catch system). So now, the bolt sled is pulled back, the plunger tube is caught, the trigger is being pressed, and P1 nub is partway up. As the user closes the breech, the rearward nub (in the picture, the nub on the boltsled that is touching P1) catches and pulls forward P1, pushing the P1 nub fully up, pressing on P2 and firing the blaster.
Hope this clears up the slam fire speculation!
EDIT
To make it so you can deprime it even when the boltsled it pulled back, you have to get rid of the slam fire. You have to glue P1 forward with some hotglue, so that P1 is stationary, in the forward position.
#254766 Nerf N-strike Longstrike Cs-6 - Preview!
Posted by SorrowX on 27 October 2009 - 11:54 PM in General Nerf
#220062 New Buzz Bee Double Shot Mod
Posted by SorrowX on 26 March 2009 - 09:35 PM in Modifications
Materials and tools needed:
BuzzBee Double Shot
screwdriver
keyring
strong carabiner
hobby knife or dremel
After this, throw some Velcro on the side of the gun and on your shorts or pants, and there you go, a waist doubleshot.
#248072 Raider Overhaul Write-up
Posted by SorrowX on 22 August 2009 - 12:47 AM in Modifications
For anyone who wants to know how slam fire works yet doesn't have a mechanical mind-state, I may be able to help. (This is not speculation, I own a Raider)
First off, study and memorize this picture. (picture of internals courtesy of SPV999)
For slam fire, the trigger would be depressed, pushing the nub on part 1 of catch system part way up(Part one of catch system will be from now on referred to as 'P1'). As the user primes the blaster, the forward nub on the boltsled presses down and locks the top-side triangular piece depressed as the plunger tube catches on P2( part 2 of the catch system). So now, the bolt sled is pulled back, the plunger tube is caught, the trigger is being pressed, and P1 nub is partway up. As the user closes the breech, the rearward nub (in the picture, the nub on the boltsled that is touching P1) catches and pulls forward P1, pushing the P1 nub fully up, pressing on P2 and firing the blaster.
Hope this clears up the slam fire speculation!
EDIT
To make it so you can deprime it even when the boltsled it pulled back, you have to get rid of the slam fire. You have to glue P1 forward with some hotglue, so that P1 is stationary, in the forward position.
Also, only 40? mine's hitting 60 flat, and I haven't even installed the breech yet.
#248129 Raider Overhaul Write-up
Posted by SorrowX on 22 August 2009 - 02:11 PM in Modifications
I'll post all the factors that contributed to it's range:With stock streamlines, some wind, and un-accounted for dart skip, sure. I didn't post the ranges at which I picked up my darts, which were all about 50 to 70 feet away.Also, only 40? mine's hitting 60 flat, and I haven't even installed the breech yet.
-Single BB 2.5 inch stefans, very dense foam (I have to push them into the bolt manually, the dart tooth does nothing)
-Seal improvement with new O-rings
-Recon spring replacement
-foam padding on plunger and back of plunger tube
-Spring addition (Not a [k26] spring, just a stretched stock spring. I didn't even need to drill out the stock)
- Hot glued a Red Seal to the top of it (Ask RedHead)
There was maybe a bit of wind, maybe. As for dart skip, I think the plants I shot into took care of that. Plus, you know how heat increases dart quality, therefore, a bit of a tighter fit.
#240780 Titan/magstrike Integration
Posted by SorrowX on 08 July 2009 - 08:23 AM in Modifications
(picture courtesy of =jakethesnake= of nerfHQ)
#294643 Rpmbnb! Updated With More Goodies!
Posted by SorrowX on 17 February 2011 - 07:54 PM in Homemades
and given incentive, i might also make custom, possibly rearloading magstrike clips that accept a barrel type of buyer's choice, hehe.
#293865 Rpmbnb! Updated With More Goodies!
Posted by SorrowX on 03 February 2011 - 11:01 PM in Homemades
I will have the zip file up soon, and it will include ALL of the parts, ready for inventor, solidworks, catalyst, etc.Excellent work, I may just have to ask you for those Inventor files (The handle, trigger, catch, and rear endcap in particular)
#293858 Rpmbnb! Updated With More Goodies!
Posted by SorrowX on 03 February 2011 - 10:27 PM in Homemades
The durability of the printed parts is very good. Nothing feels like its going to snap, and have withstood hours of dry-firing without any padding so far.
#293855 Rpmbnb! Updated With More Goodies!
Posted by SorrowX on 03 February 2011 - 10:14 PM in Homemades
RPM-Built Nerf Blaster
Proving myself and others wrong
Introduction: Since I started nerfing, the idea of a viable nerf blaster being built by a Rapid Prototype Machine has been put down. I tried before, but never seemed to get the project off the ground. After that, I jumped on the wagon that it couldn’t be done. Recently, a friend of mine managed to push me off of that wagon and get started again. Needless to say, my project was a success. Of course, not everything in the blaster was made using an RPM, but the majority of the hard to manufacture parts are. The only things not made using the RPM are the cylinder, piston rod, and barrel for obvious reasons. In other words, the plunger tube, plunger rod, and barrel still come from elsewhere. I understand the people like boltsniper have made components such as magazine wells for his blasters, but I wanted to take it a step or two above by actually making crucial components from an RPM. Anyways, on to the meaty goodness.
RPM Talk: For this project, I used Autodesk Inventor 2011 and Catalyst to design and process my blaster. The machine used is a Dimension SST768 and the model material is P400 ABS. I used a sodium hydroxide/water solution in a specialized bath set at 70°C to remove the soluble support material as well as to somewhat strengthen the bond of the model material. All of the parts built used a solid material setting for maximum strength and longevity.
Design: The blaster was mainly designed as a proof-of-concept build, so almost anything can be changed design-wise. I designed it to use 1-½ PVC as the plunger tube. The plunger rod is ⅝ round Nylon rod, but that can be easily swapped for square rod with small changes in the design of the catch base, catch and plunger head. I chose to make use of the many tools available at my school, so I used a rounded catch face design and a lathe to carve the catch face itself. This can easily be substituted for a nitefinder-style catch system.
Strength: I have yet to range test it, but that’s not really a big concern for me. My main concern is for how long it will last. So far, the parts has withstood many hours of dry-firing without any padding of any sort, any there is still no sign on any physical damage. I am currently using what my friend tells me is plus-bow spring to power the main mechanism. Half of these springs plus a normal LS spring pushes longshots to around 100’.
Pictures: Well, this part is pretty self-explanatory.
Stripped:
Printed parts only:
Grip:
Trigger:
Grip AND Trigger:
Catch:
Catch inside catch base:
Piston head:
Cylinder Head:
Primed:
Notes: If anyone wants the designs or files, I can send it to them via email, just PM me. You guys are welcome to the knowledge. To be honest, my designs aren’t the greatest, and some do have trouble understanding them. If those who request the files are willing to wait a short while, I can make revisions of my designs that are much clearer and easier for everyone to understand.
Video Is Up!!!
Files are up!!! http://www.mediafire...l99ncxy0e3d0nua
#294607 Rpmbnb! Updated With More Goodies!
Posted by SorrowX on 16 February 2011 - 11:30 PM in Homemades
I'm also working on a new homemade, a printed N-TS, although its not done yet.
also, i apologize for the double post.
#294050 Rpmbnb! Updated With More Goodies!
Posted by SorrowX on 07 February 2011 - 01:38 AM in Homemades
my talk
It may have been sodium hydroxide and it may have worked, but in that case you had a base bath. I admit I don't know anything about ABS chemistry in particular.
i got this from following a few links on wikipedia, and it sums up what i have access to:
A "water-soluble" material can be used for making temporary supports while manufacturing is in progress, this soluble support material is quickly dissolved with specialized mechanical agitation equipment utilizing a precisely heated sodium hydroxide solution.
#293971 Rpmbnb! Updated With More Goodies!
Posted by SorrowX on 06 February 2011 - 02:56 AM in Homemades
This is awesome, thanks for providing the files you used. Though I must question your acid bath consisting of Sodium Hydroxide...
If you don't mind, how much did it cost to print?
I'll definitely be looking to make one of this, my friend has access to a 'Stratasys Rapid Prototyper', hopefully we can churn out one of these awesome blasters.
I'm pretty sure it was sodium hydroxide... It was completely free for me, as my school is awesome. and stratasys makes catalyst, so it's almost guaranteed it would work.
#257628 Need A Volunteer For The Mod Directory
Posted by SorrowX on 30 November 2009 - 03:12 PM in News
#255749 Raider With Brass Breech And Integration
Posted by SorrowX on 08 November 2009 - 10:33 PM in Modifications
#286600 Printed Nerf Gun
Posted by SorrowX on 05 October 2010 - 01:45 PM in Homemades
I take this ALL back. After all, a $26,000 machine has to be good for something right? I'll have the details up by the end of the week, hopefully.
#275045 The Reconbow
Posted by SorrowX on 17 May 2010 - 02:09 PM in Modifications
#236343 A New Way To Take Away Boltsled Stress!
Posted by SorrowX on 14 June 2009 - 10:35 PM in Modifications
If you watch the video, you can see that the boltsled and original charging handle are still in use. the pullback primes the blaster, while leaving the under portion unstressed. Upon closing, the user uses that charging handle to close, still somewhat creating stress on the boltsled. The new pullback method just drastically reduces stress on the boltsled.How is this taking stress of the bolt sled its not like the bolt is in the part that breaks. This is more like a bolt relocation.
EDIT: Exactly what Bullshit Dragon just wrote.
#236338 A New Way To Take Away Boltsled Stress!
Posted by SorrowX on 14 June 2009 - 10:11 PM in Modifications
After acquiring a +Bow spring, I decided it was going to my longshots. I cut 2 portions of the spring into 4 1/2 in. segments and popped them in. I pulled back on the charging handle, when my old rival, the boltsled, snapped. After cursing furiously at now obliterated piece of plastic, I popped another one in its place. this one, much newer, didn't snap on the drawback. Instead, it bent, prohibiting the plunger rod from catching. This is my solution on how to fix that problem.
Tools And Materials Required:
- Longshot
- Drill
- Tin Snips
- Needle-Nosed Pliers
- 2 Gripping Utensils
- Bicycle brake/gear cable
- threaded rod
- 2 nuts
- 2 washers
- E-Tape
- 5/8 rubber hosing(Optional)
First off, cut the steel brake cable so it is out of the housing and has clean ends.
Now Remove the bolt pin and drill here on both sides.
Thread your steel cable through the hole where the bolt pin was formerly located, then feed it through the holes you drilled.
Cut at your desired length. make sure to leave enough room for it to double over about 1/2 an inch.
Fold your steel cable with your pliers. It should double over about half an inch. place your washers on, the cable leading the the boltsled on the inside.
Stick the washers on your threaded rod, throw on your nuts, and Bam! there you go. For the added touch, get your spice-weaseling 5/8 rubber tube and cut it to the length of your threaded rod. Cut it down one side, and place it over the rod. Wrap that sucker in E-Tape, and your all done!
Your finished product should look a bit like this:
I also have a video on how it works:
Test Firing
This thing sounds really powerful...
Questions? Comments? Spice weasels? I hope this helps out those folks who don't want anything snapping back at them. Another plus side of this mod is: you don't have to take your longshot apart!
#236346 A New Way To Take Away Boltsled Stress!
Posted by SorrowX on 14 June 2009 - 10:40 PM in Modifications
Or a bungee cable. You can still use your broken boltsled if it only broke at one point. just use the charging handle to close the setup.Actually it takes the stress off the part of the bolt sled that breaks.
I really like this mod it is convenient because my bolt sled just broke.
Edit all this mod needs is a return spring to bring in bolt.
#236584 A New Way To Take Away Boltsled Stress!
Posted by SorrowX on 15 June 2009 - 08:58 PM in Modifications
It is a bicycle brake cable. I have no idea what the gauge is that.Interesting seeing all these new Longshot mods working on preserving the bolt sled.
What gauge wire is that?
A1) Yes, it will solve your problem, unless your problem is related to something else, and not the boltsled.This looks very nice, and it sounds amazing. So this would fix my problems of not catching with the plus bow spring?
I like this more then ice's cause it eliminates that extra step and there isn't any wire coming out the back, it also looks very comfy.
A2) Yes, it is very comfy. That is the whole point of the rubber tubing and E-Tape. It just molds to your grip.
#204165 I Have A Recon Dream...
Posted by SorrowX on 17 January 2009 - 04:06 PM in Modifications
#248870 Improving The Streamline
Posted by SorrowX on 28 August 2009 - 12:18 AM in Modifications
#289447 Gyrostabilization Module
Posted by SorrowX on 30 November 2010 - 01:11 AM in Modifications
#241681 Armageddon Recap
Posted by SorrowX on 12 July 2009 - 10:40 PM in Nerf Wars
Pros-
- lots of fun
- being called terminator for the latter half of day due to my longshot
- showing off why NOT to use a slip coupler on a titan
- finding after the war that RFR's aren't that bad after all
- finally getting to do the shooter/spotter(support shot) setup
- soo many more
cons-
the bloodwing beetle's pump breaking before the first round
not much else
#180745 Angel Breech On A Recon
Posted by SorrowX on 01 October 2008 - 12:40 AM in Modifications
#288434 Titan Tank
Posted by SorrowX on 15 November 2010 - 01:37 PM in Modifications
#210472 M1 Garrand
Posted by SorrowX on 08 February 2009 - 02:16 PM in Modifications
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