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I based this splat on Blitz's here http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5250&st=3765
MIne has a few changes. Mine is using 1 1/4 in thinwall pvc for the plunger, everything is also mechanically fastened, and it houses a k45+K31 combo up in the front. This ridiculous spring power, coupled with the already diddle spring in the blaster, allows it to hit upwards of 95 feet.

New rainbow.



Great seal, just some excess friction from the catch. Only around 200 fps, should be able to increase that with some filing and sanding of the catch and support plates, but nothing is certain.

Handle for my next rainbow, it is rather unique so I thought it deserved posting.



Polycarbonate is flush with the wood for optimal smoothness on the handle, i.e. no plates sticking out into my hand. The plates also make for the installation of a 1/4 inch wide trigger easier, eliminating the need for spacers.

New Rainbow



[k25], 8 inches of draw, great seal. Shoot ~270 fps with the barrel shown below, 240 with a 8 dart hopper.



Supa Leet 3-stage optimal barrel.



~7 inches of tight CPVC, ~8 inches of looser CPVC, ~4 inches of PETG. Total length of ~19 inches.

A absurdly strong spring for the retaliator: http://www.mcmaster....springs/=nqtjy1
Not so absurd springs for the elite guns: http://www.mcmaster....springs/=nqtkiq , http://www.mcmaster....springs/=nqtl1d (the ends of these when cut to the appropriate length will need to be closed)

Ok, thanks. I bought the foam and have already cut the roll into 155 blanks. But there is one problem, I can't find any 5/8" felt pads, only 3/4 and 1/2". Do you have any recommendations for a dart head for this foam? I don't really want to make glue/silicone domes because I've heard they hurt more and aren't as safe. That and no one that I know of makes dome molds that big.

I have made 5/8 mega stefans before, and I just used 1/2 felt tips. They worked pretty well, but using something 5/8 in diameter would have been better. I would recommend getting some fairly thick craft foam and a section of 21/32 or 5/8 brass, and using it as a die to punch out pieces of craft foam. Adhere the tips to washer, and adhere that to your foam, and you've got a mega slug dart. If you could find adhesive backed craft foam that would be even better.

Useful shotgun absolver pieces: http://flexpvc.com/c...VC-Distributors

Gameranger mac Age of empires 3 Tad and Nilla name: Anonymous

bullshit
post the insides and video proof of 650fps or its an empty shell and youve never made a blaster to shoot more than stock

Look up Southern Brisbane Nerf Group on youtube and watch some of their videos. Aussies know how nerf.

That is entirely possible to, I have seen first hand singled titans or hydro cannons shoot about 450 fps, and at almost half that pressure. The tank in that blaster must be massive to produce those kinds of velocities.

But for the sake of the topic, I have been wondering what the pump is being used in the blaster that you made. My local bicycle shop only carries some weirdly sized pumps or something. Great work so far, can't wait to see it in semi-auto.

First of all I dont know why everyone keeps on complaining about the length, it will probably be able to be minimized because the front part is probably a faux barrel. I get Hero's comment on how with homemades we can get that kind of range with nearly half the body+barrel length, but do we add stupid faux barrels?

Secondly, good job hasbro! This really seems like the only competitive springer since the longshot. Hopefully we (modders) will be able to convert it to fire micros. We will probably be able to wrap some half in. pvc pipe in e-tape into the breech, and then stick the desired barrel into the pvc. Considering at how reinforced the new elite internals were (I think different plastic for some), reinforcements won't be entirely needed. I think that Titan ranges will be easily within our reach with this blaster, which will be a problem for most wars that ban Titans. I think that there will be some type of restriction on internal mods done, for example: I have heard that in Minnesota Tech targets(to be used as pistols) either have to have stock draw or the stock spring. I think a ban like that will most likely have to take place at well restricted wars.

Thirdly in response to Hero's other statement about plunger draw, Hasbro probably wants all that volume because they're not going to put in a powerful spring.

New Doomsayeresque platform?

Hello! I have just started to make a new type of dart with solid foam that is tubular, but I came upon a problem. I know some people have it when they are using non reinforced steamlines in a tight barrel: the darts get all mangled and uniform from all the bending. I came up with a type of breech that solve this problem by being able to push the dart by its head.



Edit don't know why this is not working. Link: https://docs.google....AzKYH6y7Eo/edit


using this, the dart is being pushed backwards and then the barrel comes over it.

Hopefully this makes sense. If it doesn't, send me a pm.

Sorry that I don't have the pictures of the completed product, I lost my upload cable.

 

3. The rainbowpup had the spring up front, under the barrel, and used a backwards-facing plunger like an ESLT. This does none of those things.

 

 

Sorry, I couldn't come up with a better way to describe it. I was just talking about having a seal on the plunger rod, and the air out put in the middle of the blaster. 

To be honest, while this blaster is cool and more powerful than an ESLT, it is still way more complicated and larger than it needs to be. This rainbowpup style of bull pup is a really inefficient design. There is so much more room for error, as well as a final product being quite a bit longer and more bulky than necessary. 

 

In my opinion, the best and only practical style of bullpup is the reverse-inverse aka. multiple orgasm style of priming. It takes up less space, is significantly easier to make, and is more powerful than a PCSR or ESLT. I just don't get why more people don't make reverse-inverse style bullpups. There are http://nerfhaven.com...up/#entry339179detailed write-ups on these styles of blasters, but they have gone quite unnoticed.

A lack of accuracy is almost never due to the blaster the dart it is fired from. The biggest reason hitting a target can be difficult with a Nerf blaster is that the darts most people use are inherently aerodynamically flawed. Also barrels can have an effect, but not quite as major as the darts.

The best thing you can do to solve the issue of flawed darts is to make stefan darts. Some people ban those types of darts due to safety concerns, but honestly they are perfectly safe. Stefan darts are very constant and accurate, if made well.

Since you were asking about mods, I will add my suggestions. As I previously stated, most accuracy (or lack therein), stems from the darts. Mods can help, though. If you are using flywheel blasters I recommend brassing the flywheels. Many people say this is bad and is detrimental to performance, but I had no such experience when I performed the mod on my stryfe. For springers, not much can be done. Extending the effective barrel in high volume springers can add a little amount of accuracy.

Very clean. Would you happen to know the draw length and/or the plunger tube ID? I would love to know the volume this blaster puts out.

This is so ghetto but so awesome.

The FPS readings sound right to me. Nitefinders with extended draw and spring replacements can achieve similar performance.

Good point, I also forgot that he is using elite darts, those are little lighter and more air efficient in terms of initial fps. I guess that is pretty much what this is anyways.

How much draw are you achieving?

Those fps readings are impressive...not sure I can trust them though. Amazing mod if those numbers are accurate. Could definitely rival some homemade blasters.

You could also use 1" thinwall for the catch housing, just to make the catch not have to be downsized so much.

You know that you can use this: http://www.mcmaster....ow-rods/=lk4jnj in the fire strike because the stock plunger and shell can fit it, and you wont have to use some other plunger head. I have already done this with the previously mentioned plunger tube and basically just smaller, similar to the size of the one stock, and got 90', so ya.

Brass Stryfe is a terrible idea, it adds so much friction on the darts.

While I do agree with you that a brass barrel will add extra friction, I think that your setup imparted way to much unnecessary friction. I have yet to try this but I would imagine that a shorter barrel would add extra accuracy without as much range decrease.

I did these videos the week Containment Crew uploaded his.

All my brass was internally polished, as well as beveled inside the magwell for feeding.

He never came back with his promised formal testing, so I did it for him.

Although the goal was to measure accuracy and precision, like I tried to do with the shitty fence and cardboard, I also took chronograph readings. Long brass stryfe was ~80fps, short barrel ~95fps, No barrel 123.7fps. Any effect you see on accuracy and precision is due to decreased muzzle velocities taking the Elite dart back into an operable speed.

The simple fix is to use koosh darts, watching the video you can clearly see a much tighter grouping of the green koosh darts, even though most of them went high and right over the fence. I also had to get closer to the target by 20ft with the brass stryfe to even collect any kind of data at all, which skews the results.

Kewsh is love, Kewsh is life.

Thanks for the data.

As for the koosh I have bought some and I love them, but I found these darts to work just good if not even better. The foam is pretty fat, about as fat as the fatter beige hot rod xl foam. This is actually a great thing because it means the flywheels grip the dart much better. In addition, the foam is consistent, and so is the head to foam connection. These darts are also mad cheap. 20 bucks plus 5 for shipping?!?! From China?!?!

Was about to order some best materials foam and felt from mcmaster, then I saw this. 400 pre-made darts on the way for less money than slugs. Thanks cheerios.

 It's too bad these are black, and not something easier to find.

 

I'm just going to paint the back of my darts with pink spray-paint, just like Ice9 and other nerfers did back in the golden age. Hopefully that will make them easier to find!

I received 400 china darts about a week ago, but I waited to post this so I could get to know them well.

 

1. These darts are cheap, very cheap. But, as your parents always tell you, you get what you pay for. That being said, these darts are far better than most other china darts I've seen. About 2-3 tips from every ten dart pack were poorly attached and required re-glueing by me. The tips are attached pretty well. The glue is strong, and unlike most other china darts, the foam is is strong too.

 

2. These darts are safe. The tip is extremely pointy and quite heavy (imagine a 3/0 fishing weight or steel slingshot), but also extremely squishy and rubbery. 

 

3. The darts, at least the good ones, perform quite well. I use slug darts made from a thinner batch of beige or rod XL foam with 3/0 tin weights and felt pads. My slugs perform better than most other slugs, and these china darts somehow perform even better. They have a higher muzzle velocity, travel further, and drop off much later. Their trajectory is a sideways j shape rather than a normal arch.

I propose "Bullseyes" as the name for these cut down darts, since it sounds equal parts jargon and the original ACCurate name, while also being a play on words with the accuracy thing. It will make it easy to distinguish the full length ones from these since these are more than just cut-down streamlines, they are pretty much sili tips/silicone domes. Also, this is more activity in one topic than the darts and barrels forum has had as a whole in years.

 Nah its nipple darts, no other name can even compete. 

What is the diameter of the rival balls?

Thanks for the good "inside" view as well as for this ammo idea

 

Do you think any flywheel-blaster could be turned into this kind of ball throwing machine by adjusting the flywheels?

Yes, but a whole new flywheel cage, as well as maybe even the flywheels themselves would have to be machined, and for that kind of money, you might as well just buy a zeus. 

You can get one from Orange Mod Works.
http://www.orangemod...ct_p/spg-u5.htm

I hadn't seen that. I think like what he said in his first post, he wants some type of stock spring.

Hi, I got a strong arm rather recently and wanted to do a spring replacement, but wasn't sure what spring or combination of springs to use. I was thinking of using a stock spring from another Nerf blaster in combination with the stock strong arm, but haven't noticed any that would work.

Try a spring a little smaller than the od of a big bad bow spring, like a scorpion bow spring.

Bro, the answer you seek is one that is silly and impractical. Any glue that you use is either going to be to hard or not strong enough. What all previous answers have said is that your solution is stupidly complex compared to just using
stefans or straw reinforced darts.

Just use stefans. Or make your blasters less powerful. But that's silly

As Langley said, fantastic old school take on a modern blaster. Going with the old school theme, I thought I would ask the proverbial disyllabic question of the ages: Ranges?

I just want to know that those little things (though denser) pack a punch, and you'll actually feel a hit from a good distance away.

Yeah, if it is solid foam and the foam is anything like the old ballistic ball foam, I think accuracy and range would suffer greatly. Hopefully the foam rounds are made of a very dense foam or are weighted in some other way. Regardless, I'll probably still be buying the Zeus whenever it comes out.

Those look great!

Here are a few things I would do to the flywheels to make them even better. A) I would look into putting knurling or some type of texture on the flywheels to get better grip on the darts. Knurling may be overkill, so something finer may be a little better. I would take out as much weight as possible. Maybe drilling holes on the top of top of the wheel or thinning them out. Aluminum is light, but it won't compare to plastic, and even the plastic wheels are a little heavy.

These do look pretty "sub-optimal" lol love the word censorship ^ ^. I have been loving my ACC darts, how does the foam on these compare to those? The foam on ACC darts was fairly rigid and not very forgiving to squishing. Are these the same way? 

None of the above is the obvious winner.

I have to agree with TED. None of the mods are really creative, nice to look at, or all that practical in a war. And I might sound like a butt here, but I think Coop's got some serious bias.

Yeah, TED is pretty much right. For specifics, I would get a couple of retaliators and put orange mod works springs in them, but leaving the AR intact.

I'd definitely go with the retaliator, but I can't find them in stores anymore. Are they discontinued or something?

No, they just have a different paint scheme. They are white now. Your store may also just not carry them.

My first snap carbine with a home depot handyman spring only ran me about 30 bucks and it still works, 3 years down the road.