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KaneTheMediocre

Member Since 04 Jul 2009
Offline Last Active Jun 24 2022 02:34 PM

Topics I've Started

Legend Lost: Ryan McNumbers

24 June 2022 - 11:32 AM

post-112956-0-30280300-1661969518.jpg

 

  Ryan "McNumbers" Kreterfield (Ryan201821 @ Nerfhaven) was a master craftsman, inventor, and a giant of the community who built hundreds of high quality and high powered blasters. He doesn't have a big footprint in the preferred media of today, but he was a pioneer of homemade blasters and 3d printed homemade blasters, and active on forums helping others match his achievements. This past March of 2022, we lost Ryan suddenly and unexpectedly to acute pancreatitis.
   I apologize for not making an announcement more promptly.   I felt I needed to say something, to explain to all the people who came into this hobby in recent years who Ryan is and why he matters. And it took some time before I could begin to do that.  I haven't finished, but i have a piece I was ready to share. Ryan and I designed and built a lot of cool blasters together, but I don't want to start this off by bragging. Besides, the stories about our friendship are still much harder to tell, so I wanted to start with a few of the things he achieved before we started working together.
    As a teenager Ryan was probably the first person on planet earth to sell homemade nerf blasters, starting with over 70 Plusbows.  His name was synonymous with quality in this regard, achieved with equal parts dedication and craft. There were Plusbows, and there were McNumbers Plusbows.  A Plusbow was powerful, but it might leak, break, hurt to use, or all of the above.  Potentially wonderful, but a gamble, like a hot dog. A McNumbers plusbow takes the gamble away, and adds a polish that you didn't even realize you needed.  Like a Vienna Beef hot dog (not sponsored).
 The seal would be perfect.  The barrel would align perfectly with the frame of the blaster.  The prime would be smooth, and all the edges broken. Somehow all the small things added up to more than what should be possible, and potshot with another blaster would become an easy hit with his plusbow.
    Along the way, he also developed and refined a popular airtek3000 mod, which provided similar power to the plusbow, but with a 6 shot revolver drum. In the pre-hopper world, this was a big deal, even though revolver was manually indexed. Many "airgun" enthusiasts also preferred the mechanics of pumping up an air tank instead of compressing a spring. He made and sold dozens of them to fans that eagerly paid even more for them the plusbows. I recall watching him make one once.  It took him less than a half an hour.   Unlike the plusbow, it was not a process requiring a huge amount of precision craftmanship.   Just a few simple steps that Ryan did perfectly and efficiently, to combine an unusably awful $15 retail nerf blaster with maybe another $10 in plastic sheet, tube, and miscellany.
    Ryan wasn't scamming anyone, he just invented a shockingly short path between less than $30 in materials and a blaster that easily sold for $130. And although the "3k" wouldn't have quite the same enduring appeal as the plusbow, at the time it WAS arguably the best blaster on the market.  Ryan could have kept doing just those things for many more years and remained king of the nerf homemades community.   The discovery of hoppers around 2009-2010 made the 3k obselescent, but it also dramatically multiplied the effectiveness of his plusbows. They went from being the best blaster for long range and the best blaster overall, to being the best blaster in every respect that mattered.
 Ryan didn't keep doing just those things.  Or even those things at all.   Because Ryan now knew that the best possible nerf blaster for the new era would be pump action, hopper fed blaster.  The firing posture of a plusbow, and all pull-action blasters, is different from the priming posture.   You have to either take your hand off the front grip or your other hand off the handle so you have a free hand to pull the handle in back. A pump action blaster lets you fire repeatedly without ever switching the positions of your hands, easily doubling the effective rate of fire compared to the pull-handle layout.
 Ryan's Pumpbow, a one-off experimental design to make the Plusbow into a pump action blaster, set the community on fire.   It wasn't the first pump action homemade by far, but the promise of Mcnumbers plusbow range and quality mixed with pump action ergonomics was clear, as were most of the blaster's parts.   The blaster was copied by others many times, but Ryan never made another, due to significant ergonomic problems. 
  The blaster was not comfortable to use, in particular to prime.  The front grip was very short, and the outer surface was flat, slick, polyethylene plastic sheet, and it couldn't deal with a vertical grip well due to torque issues. The fast moving pull handle remained a potential hazard to users as it was with the plusbow, and additionally there were metal bars moving back and forth near the users face.  Ryan could have ignored the problems and sold dozens of pumpbows to a mostly positive reception. Ryan could have screwed on a few extra plastic plates to cover up the moving parts near the users face, and added a higher friction foregrip. That would have been enough to earn universal praise for the new blaster.  So he abandoned the project entirely and built the Rainbowpump instead.
    Before the dawn of consumer level 3d printing, a big part of crafting blasters was just finding parts and materials that fit together. Hardware store parts were generally the cheapest and best choice. When your needs weren't covered by plumbing supplies,  McMaster had a dazzling selection of rods, tubes sheets, bars, screws, bearings, and basically every fabrication material and mechanical hardware bit that exists. The prices were usually high, but more often than not they had exactly what you need.
 This blaster is peak McMaster. Basically every flaw or problem that this blaster could have had was solved with a clear tube of the right size from McMaster-Carr.  The parts list is an internet of things, showing everything you need to order to build one of your own, and the relative cost to build them in bulk vs individually. 
   The Rainbowpump features a big, clear tube pump grip, sliding over the clear plunger tube.   The Rainbowpump features a plunger head composed of a clear tube inside a clear tube, with a skirt seal sandwiched by two more clear tubes. The plunger head slides inside a clear plunger tube, attached to a plunger rod that is also inside a pair of short clear polycarbonate tubes (arguably discs). The plunger rod has a priming pin in the back, that rotationally locates itself on slots cut into a clear tube. The blaster is primed by pushing on a clear tube that slides over the clear plunger tube and clear slotted tube, but inside another clear tube, in order to push on the priming pin.  
The result is a strikingly beautiful blaster with the sleekest profile and the smoothest operation conceivable. Like an impossible mechanical puzzle, made out of clear plastic tubes, that shoots nerf darts.  Ryan never stopped getting requests for Plusbows.  But he never made them again. It wasn't about building blasters for money, it was about making the best blasters in the world--and for the time being, those were Rainbowpumps. Ryan built and sold at least 20 Rainbowpumps, finding admirers and new blaster owners at "local" events and online.
   The Rainbowpump never achieved the same level of fame and popularity as the plusbow, but casuals who showed up to events as guests without any experience with homemade nerf blasters often borrowed them and intuitively used them well.  While they needed a little instruction, they didn't need to be told "dont lean your face in to aim or this thing will remove a chunk of it when you fire". I always derived a special satisfaction in seeing casuals exceeding or defeating the more dedicated players that brought them. This happened regularly when Ryan and his blasters were in attendance.  
The Rainbowpump inspired countless other pump action homemades, many using the same new rainbow catch, which is a story unto itself, and many also using the name "Rainbowpump", in a technically correct but confusing way. Many incomplete and inferior copies of Ryan's Rainbowpump, were produced, and despite their relative flaws they were still popular and competitive. And of course, the best blaster in the world couldn't stay that way forever.  Ryan would make sure of that. But that's another story.  I hope to tell it soon. 


EZ Talon Magazine

04 July 2019 - 10:42 PM

I made a simplified, support-material-free and vertically printed variation of the Thanhlon.  Exterior profile is cloned from the Thanhlon, interior details are mostly removed.  The same drum spring replacement is used, although I altered the anchor to better fit the newer U-bended springs that seem to have replaced the V-bended springs, although either can be made to work in both thanhlon and EZ talon. 

175 mm tall and goes to 11, I haven't made extensions yet and haven't had great results with them in the past. 
As it stands I can print the whole assembly of 2 parts in under 2 hours with a printer that isn't fast.

EZ Talon (mine) is here https://www.thingive...m/thing:3730115
 

Thanhlon (Than's) is here https://www.thingive...m/thing:3460408

 

I would upload the files here as well, but the upload system won't accept .step files or solidworks files.  In this case they're not great, owing to the complicated origins of the model, but still needed for basic manipulation like extending or reducing the magazine capacity, which many users may need to be able to print this or go to larger numbers.

It's a working mag, but it's not a well tested design at this point.  It's not expected to be as tough as a real talon, and probably not as tough as a thanhlon due to printing orientation.  All mine have been printed in ABS so far.  It's fairly difficult to stop the follower by squeezing the magazine, but it is possible if you squeeze hard and in the middle.  Still they should be fine with normal use, even used as a handle or duct-taped together in a jungle mag.

edit:  These use the drum replacement spring from foamblastshop.com, just like Than's magazines.


Fixed magazine systems (Kanetana?)

27 December 2018 - 09:23 AM

Lately I've been doing a lot of work to replace hoppers with a magazine system for short darts.  I started with katana magazines, but I didn't want my blasters to rely on a 3rd party to supply something so critical, especially when the price and quality isn't great.

I somehow wound up abandoning detachable magazines, in favor of integrated magazines with convenient top (and later side) loading. 
The first two blasters are top loaded, and have some horrible and crude means of affixing helical springs in inconvenient places without making things larger.  They are both on thingiverse and youtube:

I put the first one on an XBZ:

https://www.thingive...m/thing:3275173

 

And the 2nd on a HAMP:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hiqY-gEGKSc

https://www.thingive...m/thing:3275208

The 3rd one was, like so many things I build, a fascinating high-capacity piece of shit, and it never got put on a blaster.  I still did a video, and published the thing.
The main takeaway from this was a switch to using a single door that stops the dart at the same place at any contact point, and using magnets instead of springs for the return.  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W89g2N9Bj58
https://www.thingive...m/thing:3275634

The 4th one was sort of a sad, familiar ABS story.  But it took a more sensible approach to the dart door mechanism from the third attempt, with a proven, straight-track design, and added easy mounting options instead of hot glue. There was also the theory that the hinge rod for the dart door could optionally double as the priming stroke connector for a pump action blaster, which I abandoned.  It worked quite well despite it's deformities but I never put it on a blaster.  I also omitted the endstops on dart door travel, which is bad, but I wanted to more accessibly test the mechanism, and figured I'd kludge something on later.  At this point I started calling them Kanetanas and decided the project was worth publishing on thingiverse. 

https://www.thingive...m/thing:3275664

The 5th one switched up the design to isolate the receiver print from the magazine print, in hopes of avoiding sad ABS stories.  I also eliminated the mounting holes and bulk of the previous version, with the bolt pattern on between the magazine and receiver being usable for plate mounting. It never got put on a blaster, but I did assemble and test it.  While it worked, I over-shortened the dart door, which made the magnet less effective towards the outside of it's intended travel.  This was more of a problem due to the continued lack of endstops.
https://www.thingive...m/thing:3291331

The 6th one finally added endstops, although not in a robust fashion.  The dart door length was increased, and a finger clearance cutout was added, similar in purpose to the one in Kanetana 0.2.  The ergonomics of and function of this one were nearly perfect, and so I kludged together a short stroke pump-action crossbow from a abandoned/failed project parts, and actually took the trouble to link the breech to the priming stroke.  No video yet, but IMO it's pretty sweet.    The thing is available, and should work well so long as nothing breaks.
https://www.thingive...m/thing:3305153

The 7th one has been printed only, and not fully assembled or tested.  It separates the receiver into an upper and lower, and in doing so makes the entire assembly much more robust.  If you're going to print one, I still recommend this one over the others even though it's untested.
https://www.thingive...m/thing:3307637

There has been hole size drama throughout this, but I've always been able to kludge around it. Some due to incorrectly predicting printer behavior, some due to plain old stupid.  So maybe check out the sizes with the step files before printing one for yourself.

The magnets used were 3mm x 12mm neodymium discs.  I got them at Ace.  Basically you have a 13mm hole to work with.
The follower spring was a foamblastshop.com drum replacement spring.  Specifically the rejects sold at discount recently, they all worked fine for me.  Presumably the non-rejects are also fine.

Goals for future versions are primarily variations with different mounting options, possibly including adaptations for specific blasters.

So yeah.  That's a thing.  If you're into that sort of thing.


The Foam Conflict (gametype)

04 June 2017 - 09:58 AM

I'm working on a class system to make nerf wars fair and fun with a variety of unequal blasters and equipment. Team fortress classic and firearms half-life mod were my primary inspiration for this system. Stuff has point values, classes have point value budgets and special abilities.  None of this is in any way war tested at time of writing.  Anyways, I value your input even when I ignore it, and welcome you to hate on my system, suggest improvements to the system, make your own remix of the system, tell me what I've missed etc.  

Some stuff I know is fucked:
Sword and shield sizes are undefined.

Bandaging is not explained.

Really, none of the basic rules most of us take for granted are not explained.
Knight and Tank classes are just prefab equipment choices that couldn't be legal otherwise.  Sort of the same deal with the Grenadier and 

 

 

 

 

This is what I have so far:
Classes:

 

Light 10, instant respawn
Medium 15, 10s respawn
Grenadier, 8, 10s respawn, unlimited grenade carry and big ammo blasters are free
Medic 10, 20s respawn, fast bandaging
Mad Scientist 12, 20s respawn, adders and attached blasters are free
Heavy Weapons Guy 20, 40s respawn
/Knight 2 40s Gets free large shield and WTF, large, or small sword.
/Tank 3 60s Gets free large shield and attached blaster valued up to 10. 

 

Stuff:

 

Basic Sword +2
Single-shot nerf pistol +2 (stock)
Single HAMP +4 
Single Aabow +4 
STAN gun +4
Human powered nerf blasters +3 to +5 (stock)
Magazine-fed blowgun +5
small shield +6
Large sword +6
Battery powered nerf blasters +8 (stock)
Hopper Hamp +8 
Hopper Aabow +8 
Pullback springer w/ hopper +10
Pump-up air blaster w/ hopper +11
Pump-action springer w/ hopper +12
WTF sword +14
large shield +15
 
Adders:
 
Attached hopper blowgun +5
Attached (very) small shield +5
Bipod +1
Magazine ammo capacity +1 for every 10 darts after the first 10.
Other blaster ammo capacity +1 for every 20 darts after the first 10.  Extra magazines count.
 
Stock Ammo only -2
Big ammo only -2
Bow arms instead of spring -2
RSCB instead of hopper -2
single load instead of hopper -3
 
"Grenade" pouch +2
Bandage +1 each (medic only)
Bandage +4 each
 
starter classes:
Light 10, instant respawn
Medium 15, 10s respawn
Grenadier, 8, 20s respawn, unlimited grenade carry and big ammo blasters are free
Medic 10, 20s respawn, fast bandaging
Mad Scientist 12, 20s respawn, adders and attached blasters are free.
Heavy Weapons Guy 20, 40s respawn
Knight 2 40s Gets free large shield and WTF, large, or small sword.
Tank 3 60s Gets free large shield and attached blaster valued up to 10. 
 

  I chose not to distinguish between all the types of "singled" blasters- muzzle loaders, breech loaders, speedloaders are all treated the same as long as there's no magazine. 

 

I'm expecting/assuming the homemade springers and bows to all be roughly the same power, shooting about 200 fps with 1 gram darts.  I can get away with this more because I'm providing them, but even if I weren't actual range doesn't change much with more velocity than that, and I'll probably ban anything that shoots a LOT harder than that for safety.

 

 I also choose not to distinguish between the various blaster layouts (eg bullpup, double-rainbow, other different bullpup) or the type of catch.  And of course there are many other ergonomic factors that make some blasters easier to use than others, and I'm ignoring that too.

I also choose not to distinguish between a pullback blaster, bolt-action blaster, bad lever action, or any priming action which requires removing one or both of your hands from the ideal firing position .  

Pump action is meant to include things like (good) lever action, push-action, or any other priming action where your hands never leave the firing position when priming. 
Semi-auto is not likely to show up aside from battery powered nerf blasters, which (at least stock) don't have amazing performance and are categorized as 8 points. I don't know what a fair point value would be for a NIC powerful semi-auto so I havent assigned one.

 

Some stuff I know is fucked:

 

Sword and shield sizes are undefined.

Bandaging is not explained.

Really, none of the basic rules most of us take for granted are not explained.
Knight and Tank classes are just prefab equipment choices that couldn't be legal otherwise.  Sort of the same deal with the Grenadier and 

 


Modded blasters are not really part of my system yet.  I don't really have any, and if I'm lucky it's a question I won't have to deal with.  I just feel hopeless doing anything but a case-by-case analysis for modded blasters.

Blowguns are a HUGE omission in my system so far, with only STAN guns/hopper blowguns represented.  However, I'm not going to allow blowguns without an amazing mouthpiece or at least something flexible for the mouthpiece, and that kind of kills the simple pipe blowguns that dominate with old-school (not ancient-school) darts, and still work well with 50 cal darts.  However, there are a variety of magazine fed blowgun styles that don't present such a safety concern, and I would guess they would be in the 4-6 point range (I don't get sweet range with 50 cal blowguns) plus whatever magazine capacity adder.

 

The STAN gun

03 June 2016 - 11:49 PM

The S imple T ype A utomatic N erf gun.
 
Materials:
 
18" Schedule 80 1/2" PVC Pipe 5.85 (120")
 
30"+ Schedule 40 1/2" PVC Pipe 2.21 (120") 
 
12" Schedule Anything 3/4" PVC Pipe 2.86 (120")
 
2x 3/4" PVC Tee  0.44 http://www.mcmaster.com/#4880k42
1 ft vinyl tubing $1 (estimate, need to confirm at Ace)
1/2" CPVC 45 degree elbow 0.36
 
 
Duct tape 3.75 (1 roll)
 
Price for 1 with leftovers:  5.85+2.21+2.86+0.27+1.59+0.38+2*0.44+3.75+1+0.36 = $19.15
Bulk price per blaster (60 LCD, 16" magazine):5.85/6+2.21/4+2.86/10+0.27+1.59+0.38+2*0.44+3.75/3+1+0.36 = $7.55
Bulk price per blaster (6 LCD, 26" magazine): 5.85/6+2.21/3+2.86/6+0.27+1.59+0.38+2*0.44+3.75/3+1+0.36 = $7.91
 
The basic mechanism of the STAN gun is the well known hoppered blowgun.  The STAN gun is intended to take advantage of this amazingly simple and economical mechanism in a way that more meaningfully passes for a blaster.  There's still no trigger, and it's still lung-powered, but there are at least handles and a stock, as well as a flexible tube that prevents the user from getting their teeth knocked out in a collision. 
 
 The hope is that STAN guns help NIC-isolated war hosts to provide enough loaner blasters to start a community with normals.   There's no question that a traditional hoppered springer NIC primary is a superior blaster for a typical playing field and playing style (These are 50 ft blasters tops), but these are still good enough at what they do to have a role in an NIC war (Provided at least a LITTLE bit of cover) and enough WOW for a person who's never seen homemades to hold their interest.   The cost for 1 blaster is a bit deceptive, as very short lengths of pipe are required.  This not only means dramatic savings for making more blasters, it also makes it more likely that a given NIC homemade enthusiast would have everything needed to make a STAN gun already.  The wye is the only really obscure part, but we've all come to peace with the fact that we need to order a bunch online every once in a while.  Schedule 80 pipe can be hard to find locally depending on where you live and if you have a day job (Menards always carried in in Chicagoland, but the closest Menards to me in WA is in Wyoming), but you can always order it online. 

I plan on this evolving into more of a writeup than it is currently, but I always do, so we'll see.  In the meantime, the video shows you everything you need.  I recommend watching it, and really all youtube videos, at 2X speed.  It's in the quality settings menu.
 
Troubleshooting the feed:
+Make sure that the vinyl tubing is pushed in far enough to seal in the sch40 1/2" pipe but not so far that you can see it when you look in the top of the wye.
+Make sure your barrel entrance is as smooth and gradual as needed for your darts.  Some darts need more than others.  With Artifact darts, you need an extra-gradual entrance.  Sometimes tray style hoppers like Zorn's optimal wye are needed for springers, although I've always gotten blowguns to work without them.
+Make sure your darts are short enough.  Artifact darts are 36mm, and I think that's about as long as you can go with such rigid foam.  If you have darts made with very soft and flexible foam, you may be able to go a little bit longer if you want.
+Take the magazine, and ALL of the darts out of the wye, and put them back in and try again.  Hoppers are voodoo, sometimes this just happens.