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Mmkay, so I'll admit, I've been a bit inactive on NH for a bit. Granted, I still should have kept up with the MANO planning schtick, which I didn't. So, apologies to all that have been waiting for this thread.
Considering how late it is in May, I doubt that a May war will work, and I think that all of the weekends are booked for me anyways. But an early June war isn't out of the question, methinks. Who could make an early June war?
TS
*Edit tiem*
SET-IN-STONE DATE IS JUNE 21ST! NOTE - COME AT 10:00!
So far, we have
TS + 1-2
Fenixharth +~5
Thomas +1?
Jackster?
OfAll?
Note - 2 of those are maybe's. Please get back to me/the thread about coming, I'd really like to know.
And also, just so you don't have to search for it, the info for the game/location is here - http://nerfhaven.com...wtopic=8550&hl=
Team Slaya
Member Since 30 Apr 2005Offline Last Active Jan 07 2014 06:41 PM
Topics I've Started
Double Tek
24 March 2008 - 10:41 PM
I asked a buddy to pick me up a double pack of big blasts the other week, and they came in a pack with two BB's and two single teks. The single teks were originally going to be thrown somewhere dark, but I decided to CPVC them and they got decent range. Then I remembered the double NF, which was awesome. So I sawed off half of the handle, and epoxied them together. I also epoxied a metal bar through the exposed parts of the shell from one handle to the other for increased stability. Behold!
The blue ring in the first picture is some velcro strap that I found in my garage. It hooks nicely to a belt, and both holds the gun secure and allows it to come undone easily enough to not be a hindrance.
How to hold the Double Tek -
A puzzle parrot about to meet it's doom -
Ranges are about 45-50', but pretty damned accurate, easy to reload, and fun to fire. I'd call my attempt to transmute two guns that I thought I'd never use to one that I will a success. I'd suggest this to anyone who has two single teks laying around from a BB pack.
TS
The blue ring in the first picture is some velcro strap that I found in my garage. It hooks nicely to a belt, and both holds the gun secure and allows it to come undone easily enough to not be a hindrance.
How to hold the Double Tek -
A puzzle parrot about to meet it's doom -
Ranges are about 45-50', but pretty damned accurate, easy to reload, and fun to fire. I'd call my attempt to transmute two guns that I thought I'd never use to one that I will a success. I'd suggest this to anyone who has two single teks laying around from a BB pack.
TS
Razor Fin Mod
13 February 2008 - 05:08 PM
So I recently got a Razor Fin from Poo, and decided to dig right in. I looked in the mods directory and found no official barrel mod, so I decided to take pictures while I went along and see how it came out. Here's what I did.
The razor fin's internals are fun - you get two barrels that automatically switch when you depress the handle enough. This means that the setup is a bit dicey, however. Once you have the gun open, there's a bunch of pieces that you have to save in order for the barrel switching to maintain intact. You get the three fins, which hold the top white piece that they're connected to in place. That white piece has a peg that the arm of the auto switch mechanism attaches to, allowing the auto switch to stay in place. I put dashes on the three fins, #'s 1-3, for an easier time when I put them back in. Here's a closer view.
You can take everything out except the plunger tube and the barrels for right now, and put them somewhere where you won't misplace them. I also suggest putting dashes on the fins in the order that they go in, #'s 1-3, so that you can get them into place easier later. Once that's all out, you should be left with this.
The plunger ain't too bad, and the spring is decent for a stock gun. I'm not gonna replace it this time around, but I will definitely later.
Now, you might notice that the barrels really just don't want to move. That's because they're glued in via these blue pieces of plastic, which are more problematic than you might think.
To get these out I took my trusty leatherman knife and pushed. Kind of a sawing motion but more just sliding through the plastic than sawing at it.
Once the blue pieces are out the barrels will slide right out. You want to cut them right at that small black MS paint line.
Now we need to cut out the air restrictors. Like the nubs before, your knife will work fine, and is quicker than pliers. You can also get all of the plastic out with your knife. Comparison of one done and one not -
I chose 3" CPVC barrels for this gun, it seemed to be just enough length for the tight fit on my darts, and slightly longer than the original barrels. 17/32 brass or whatever is tight on your darts will work as well.
To get a good seal, I decided to shove the barrels into the nubs of the old barrels. But the CPVC just barely didn't fit, so I sanded out the nubs with my drill press. Any form of sanding will work, just make sure that you don't go through the plastic. And remember, you can always sand more, not less.
A couple minutes and a large pile of orange dust, they're in and glued!
I then ran another bead of hot glue around the barrels and threw the original barrel sleeve on it. Straightens the barrels out and makes 'em look all nice.
Crappy image post limit... Don't you post!
Part 2!
To finish up I wrapped the plunger head in e-tape and lubed it up. I use M1 All Purpose Lubricant, it doesn't smell too bad and doesn't eat rubber. Works for me.
Now the re-assembly is the toughest part. First of all, there's a spring on the white part which holds the fins that originally attached to the upper blue nub (there's a picture of it with my knife in it) that held the barrels in. Considering that I obliterated the blue nub, I had to improvise. I took my knife and wiggled it through one of the ridges on the barrel sleeve and ran the spring through that. Hopefully the picture will capture the essence of this one. The crappy, MS paint'd arrows are pointing to the hole.
Then you've gotta throw everything back in. Refer to the first two pics for that step. Make sure that the arm that runs from the auto rotation mechanism is in place on it's nub - that's the part that slips out the most. The catch spring is also pretty strong.
And then you're done!
Ranges are sketchy right now because it's raining and I have no tape measure. I will update with ranges eventually. My rough ESTIMATE is ~50' with stefans and ~55-60' with converted tagger darts.
Comments, etc are welcome.
TS
The razor fin's internals are fun - you get two barrels that automatically switch when you depress the handle enough. This means that the setup is a bit dicey, however. Once you have the gun open, there's a bunch of pieces that you have to save in order for the barrel switching to maintain intact. You get the three fins, which hold the top white piece that they're connected to in place. That white piece has a peg that the arm of the auto switch mechanism attaches to, allowing the auto switch to stay in place. I put dashes on the three fins, #'s 1-3, for an easier time when I put them back in. Here's a closer view.
You can take everything out except the plunger tube and the barrels for right now, and put them somewhere where you won't misplace them. I also suggest putting dashes on the fins in the order that they go in, #'s 1-3, so that you can get them into place easier later. Once that's all out, you should be left with this.
The plunger ain't too bad, and the spring is decent for a stock gun. I'm not gonna replace it this time around, but I will definitely later.
Now, you might notice that the barrels really just don't want to move. That's because they're glued in via these blue pieces of plastic, which are more problematic than you might think.
To get these out I took my trusty leatherman knife and pushed. Kind of a sawing motion but more just sliding through the plastic than sawing at it.
Once the blue pieces are out the barrels will slide right out. You want to cut them right at that small black MS paint line.
Now we need to cut out the air restrictors. Like the nubs before, your knife will work fine, and is quicker than pliers. You can also get all of the plastic out with your knife. Comparison of one done and one not -
I chose 3" CPVC barrels for this gun, it seemed to be just enough length for the tight fit on my darts, and slightly longer than the original barrels. 17/32 brass or whatever is tight on your darts will work as well.
To get a good seal, I decided to shove the barrels into the nubs of the old barrels. But the CPVC just barely didn't fit, so I sanded out the nubs with my drill press. Any form of sanding will work, just make sure that you don't go through the plastic. And remember, you can always sand more, not less.
A couple minutes and a large pile of orange dust, they're in and glued!
I then ran another bead of hot glue around the barrels and threw the original barrel sleeve on it. Straightens the barrels out and makes 'em look all nice.
Crappy image post limit... Don't you post!
Part 2!
To finish up I wrapped the plunger head in e-tape and lubed it up. I use M1 All Purpose Lubricant, it doesn't smell too bad and doesn't eat rubber. Works for me.
Now the re-assembly is the toughest part. First of all, there's a spring on the white part which holds the fins that originally attached to the upper blue nub (there's a picture of it with my knife in it) that held the barrels in. Considering that I obliterated the blue nub, I had to improvise. I took my knife and wiggled it through one of the ridges on the barrel sleeve and ran the spring through that. Hopefully the picture will capture the essence of this one. The crappy, MS paint'd arrows are pointing to the hole.
Then you've gotta throw everything back in. Refer to the first two pics for that step. Make sure that the arm that runs from the auto rotation mechanism is in place on it's nub - that's the part that slips out the most. The catch spring is also pretty strong.
And then you're done!
Ranges are sketchy right now because it's raining and I have no tape measure. I will update with ranges eventually. My rough ESTIMATE is ~50' with stefans and ~55-60' with converted tagger darts.
Comments, etc are welcome.
TS
Maverick Turret Issues
08 January 2008 - 03:46 PM
Well, after semi-hijacking the CPVC maverick thread and getting answers, but none that helped my predicament, I decided to branch out into the free, foam-invested world and plead to the whole damned mods forum.
I'm having some rather noobish issues with my (Old version) Maverick's turret - the part that holds the barrels themselves and the sheath that goes over it REFUSE to separate. I've taken out ALL screws that I can see, loosened the glue around the barrels, and nothing has helped. I'm rather pissed that I can't do this myself, and no one ever mentions this being a problem, but eh, shit happens. I even have pictures (although of low quality) this time! Jubilations.
Front of the turret.
Back of the turret.
Blurry, bloomed out zoom on the back.
Any help is appreciated, thanks.
TS
I'm having some rather noobish issues with my (Old version) Maverick's turret - the part that holds the barrels themselves and the sheath that goes over it REFUSE to separate. I've taken out ALL screws that I can see, loosened the glue around the barrels, and nothing has helped. I'm rather pissed that I can't do this myself, and no one ever mentions this being a problem, but eh, shit happens. I even have pictures (although of low quality) this time! Jubilations.
Front of the turret.
Back of the turret.
Blurry, bloomed out zoom on the back.
Any help is appreciated, thanks.
TS
