This writeup is about my rapid red modification and shell integration. I will be using this blaster mainly for CQB and HvZ games. I choose Rapid Red is because they are the most affordable option to try new stuffs, compared to many other flywheel blaster after the discontinued of Stryfe.
- For HvZ and CQB Games
- Operatable by a single hand (as another hand will be holding a foam sword)
-Lights up my way at night (while eye friendly)
- Medieval Classical Feel (Because I love it!)
- LED design that looks cool
- Solve small handle problem
Things I've Done
- DIY Stock made by lightweight material
- Shell Integration : Adding new Handle from Distruptor's (the "New Strongarm" ), Distruptor's Priming Slide for Stabilizing Stock.
Rubber vacuum wand flex a lot, so applying epoxy putty directly wouldn't works. I nailed a small piece of wood on it ( I get this wood for free, you can get some small wood in Walmart DIY Crafting area )
Step 5: LED Holes
Use a sharpie to mark out places that I want to cut a hole
Use Dremel drilling attachment to drill the holes
Sand the cutted holes so it looks smooth
We need something to dilute the LED lights. Cut off some semi-transparent plastic sheet(I use semi-transparent plastic folder), hot glue them to those holes.
Step 6: Paint Job
Sand the body of Rapid Red
Base coat using Automotive Vinyl and Fabric Black
Glue Gun Drawing, set the temperature to High, and draw the pattern.
Base coat again on Hot Glue patterns, using Automotive Vinyl and Fabric Black as well
Aged Copper Spray Paint
Adding black Acrylic Paint(mixed with around 1-1 water）for blackish shadow effect
Use a Dry brush/ Sponge, rub some dry gold paint on it.
Paint a layer of Black Acrylic Paint at the bottom half.
After the black paint dries, mix red paint with a little bit of water, brush on the black surface, rub it with your finger/fabric. To make it bloooodyyy cool.
Step 7: Internal Wiring and Necessary Shell Cut
I use Meishel 2.0 motor, subminiature switch and 18 gauge wire.
Some parts are needed to be grind off (Dremel grinning atachment) in order to fit the Li Po
Test motor spinning direction
Step 8: LEDs and Magazine Fit
Before closing the shell, I tried a couple times of reopening the whole thing, readjusting and do extra shell trimming, so that it fits the magazine, rev trigger and able to be closed .
I wish to get a battery cage and flywheel for my stryfe but i some questions that Google couldn't answer me:
1. What is the meaning of "Brushless" cage or motor?Is that okay to use brushless cage for non-brushless motor?
(mine is Meishel 2.0 motor, which I believe its not a brushless motor)
2. How to choose a flywheel to buy?
( I saw there's many brand of flywheel in etsy, each brands has different type of flywheel too, while I saw worker produced metal flywheel which looks cool but not sure if thats practical.. is there any way to check their specs/any judging methods besides of using the "more expensive means better performance" approach?)
I am planning to run some Nerf War and HvZ game in Southern Illinois area. Im currently a student in Carbondale, the college town where Southern Illinois University located. After the summer classes started and more students are back to campus, I will start advertise it around the campus and try to recruit some new people into our sport.
Right now I'm still making some Posters/Flyers, it will be introducing what is Nerf War and HvZ, and also our Facebook Group. I also seeking for more members and people who interested in running games together.I have also bought 10 second hand blasters(4 recons, 6) for rent/borrow, darts and DIY some barricades for players to take cover in game.
Any Nerfers near/around Southern Illinois so I can add you into our Facebook group?
Also, I wish to hear more stories from someone how did your nerf group started and grown.