Ultrasonic2

just cut it out and join the wires..

Instead of imr batteries, I've decided to go with ultrafires as they are much cheaper. I know that they are no where near as good as imrs, but I can't spend a lot on batteries now... It looks like I will use two ultrafires and two dummy batteries (roughly 7.4 volts). I just have four more questions: 1. For bypassing the thermistor, the goal is to make the two wires touch, right? So I can either twist them together, or connect them with a wire right (e tape a wire in place)? 2. Would running 7.4 volts hurt the internals drastically? I don't want burnt wires or anything... Although, the motors will probably burn out eventually. 3. How long do my internals have before dying? 4. What fps should I expect with 7.4 volts?
Thanks!
Bubba

 

 

Here we go i tested the stock stryfe at different voltages...

 

http://nerfhaven.com...erent-voltages/

 

 

Also Ultrafire batteries tends to be FAKE, claiming massive capacity when i fact they are WAY worse that other realistic capacity batteries.  

And arduino will do exactly what you want, minus the trigger part. That's caused by the rev switch mechanism, unless your really confident with your modding skills I would just let that be.

 

 

Yeah man i've just done the code 400 lines.

 

Powered from a 4s

 

Features

 

• Hig Low mode... 3s mode or 2s mode . this is cos 3s has to much power when using close range at 5 year olds.

 

• When the trigger is pulled and you have NOT pulled the rev motor switch it will apply 4s  for like a second to rev up the motors then start firing

 

• When the trigger is pushed it will apply 4S to the pusher for like 0.5s to get the shot off as soon as possible ( 0.5sconds might be to long )

 

• Auto fire mode as normal

 

• Semi auto mode..  Assuming you haven't pulled the motor rev trigger it will keep the fly wheel spinning for upto 5 seconds after the shot to ensure the motors dont start slowing down between trigger pulls. 

"This cage was deign over the course of about 3 months with consolation from from Ryan from Make Test Battle and Tom from Foam Data Services as well as others."

 

"Dude, I'm sorry you are so hung up on flywheels that you feel like you need to make this.  Really, really sorry."

 

 

Thanks guys..

 

Not sure whats wrong with fly wheel blasters other than the sound.

I have some plunger ones but i'd take an auto one any day .. with a plunger one you have one shot then you have to cock it and that throws of your aim.. Auto you  just fling them till you hit them... Also much easier when your on the move shooting with one hand  

This test was using the stock motors then?

People thought that the "serrations" might increase air friction (thus slowing the motor down) and/or actually decrease dart grip.

If the problem is the former, more torque from the motor might help. If it is the latter, then these really are useless except if you are in desperate need of replacement flywheels.

Anyway, thanks for testing.

Yes stock motors at 12v

I believe others had predicted that these would not increase FPS because there is ultimately less friction area between the dart and the wheel now thanks to the serrations. I would really like to test ones without the serrations.