F man 47

It is slightly beneficial adds about 10 ft that's a estimate, but as you know you won't be able to dry fire anymore

Will I have to reinforce the boltsled if i remove the AR's?

you could using the 1.2 v rechargeable go with a motor swap race motors like the plasma dash or hyper dash are meant to run at those voltages rather than the over volt the imr give...

if i may ask why so afraid of imr my charger does the 1.2v rechargeable too and i use the 14500 size in a few of my flashlights too... and i have my rapidstrike setup to run off 18650...

I'd like to use 1.2v rechargeable batteries because my family bought a bunch for household use, so using those to power the stryfe will make the most out of the batteries.

To me it sounds like (but I may be wrong) it sounds like you need a check valve not a oprv.

Sorry, thats what i meant when I said the ball pump's valve. All ball pumps do have check valves in them? If not how can I add one to the pump so the air does not leak out of the pump?

Lately I've been noticing a bunch of chinese ebay sellers with white FBR that they sell as 'Wedding foam'.
Has anyone had any experience with this stuff? Is it any good?

I have seen some of this foam here in my local hardwares shops in Hong Kong, they are used like FBR. The foam is quite dense and does come in 12mm sizes, but is very squishy and when pressed may not return beck to the same size. I use this for my darts because it is the only option i have but it is generally not very good.

Your top plunger rod likely isn't centered, that would account for the bad seal and crazy friction.

I think that could be the problem, but am not sure of a solution for it. I have tried using a 1.5 inch fender washer with a 3/8 ID for my seal,which fixes my problem of the slow plunger rod; but it only gets a 40% seal and does not fire a dart. I have no access to large hardware store here in Hong Kong and my hardware stores do not carry fender washers, is there any other way of centring the plunger rod?