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The2ndBluesBro

Member Since 14 Jan 2013
Offline Last Active May 14 2019 01:12 AM

Topics I've Started

Definitive AABow

30 June 2016 - 09:52 PM

Definitive AABow

Preface

This is my entry into the Spring into Homemades writeup contest. I noticed while looking for a first homemade to build that the AABow seemed simple enough, but there weren't any good instructions for making one. Kane's updated writeup is well done but his design is flawed. This design requires less materials, less glue and can be built entirely with materials obtained from Lowe's/Home Depot. To begin, though, I'm giving credit to WARnerfmods on youtube for designing this. Linky. However, all he made was a video that was pretty long and didn't give any measurements or actual step by step instruction on how to build it. I believe this to be the single best AABow design out there, and here's why.

 

Cost

I’m not sure exactly, but I’d guess around $30 USD. I probably spent $35-45 CAD to make this but the Canadian dollar is pretty worthless right now so you should be able to find all the materials for much less than I did. Also, if you spend a couple extra dollars for duplicates of some parts like the washers, you will have enough materials for two bows.

 

Materials

Body and Plunger Rod

3/4” PVC- 16” length

1/2” CPVC- 15 1/2” length

1 1/4” PVC- 16 5/8” length

3/4” PVC endcap- 1

3/4” PVC tee- 1

 

Bow Arms

3/4” PVC cross- 1

3/4-1/2” reducer- 3

1/2” PVC- 5' length

Rope rated to at least 90lbs to be safe

1/4” ID 3/8” OD vinyl tubing (or whatever fits your string, thinner is better, I wouldn't go larger than this)- 4” length

1/2” PVC endcap- 2

 

Plunger Head

1/2” CPVC endcap- 1

1 1/2” rubber washer-1

1 1/4” rubber washer-1

1 1/4” OD 3/16 ID metal fender washer- 1

#8 finishing washer- 1

10-32 bolt- 1

10/32 nylon locknut- 1

6/32 machine screws- 3/8” long- 4

General

6/32- 1/2” machine screws

 

Tools- Required

Drill

Dremel with sanding disc and drum (or some other way to cut slots)

File/Sandpaper

Pipe cutter

Hacksaw (or some other way to cut 1 1/4” PVC)

Adhesives- Goop, superglue/epoxy/solvent weld

Packing tape

Knife or scissors

Rubber mallet

Lube (I used Super Lube, but white lithium or silicone greases are also great)

Wire (I used 20 gauge hardware wire from the dollar store)

Tools- Optional

Band saw/scroll saw

Drill press

6/32 tap

10/32 tap

6/32 countersink

Architect’s Ruler

Circle-drawing jig

 

BOW ARMS

Step 1

Take your 3 reducers and cut the ridge off the end. It doesn't have to be pretty. 

 

Attached File  20160627_124750.jpg   95.72KB   130 downloads

Step 2

Take one of your 3/4” endcaps and cut both ends off. If you have one where there is no lip on the end and it already fully slides into 1 1/4” PVC then you only have to cut the back off. You could also use any scrap coupler for this, as long as you end up with a piece that is effectively a ring of a 3/4” coupler at the end.

Attached File  20160627_125553.jpg   53.1KB   123 downloads

Step 3

Hammer this piece onto a length of 3/4” PVC about 1 1/2” long.

Attached File  20160627_130430.jpg   37.73KB   125 downloads

Step 4

Take the piece from step 3, the 3 reducers, the 3/4” cross and some epoxy/solvent weld/superglue and attach them all together. Also, wrap the back end with packing tape until it fits into the 1 1/4” PVC.

It should look like this:

Attached File  20160627_150442.jpg   85.31KB   132 downloads

Step 5

Take your length of 1 1/4” PVC and use the goop and 4 6/32-3/8” machine screws to attach the cross inside. If you tap the holes for the screws they should be airtight but you can also goop the screws for the same effect.

Attached File  20160629_192853.jpg   75.79KB   121 downloads

Step 6

Take your 5” of 1/2” PVC and mark a dot at the midpoint (2 1/2’). Then, mark a line about 1 3/4” away from the dot on both sides. This will allow you to easily get the cross/PT assembly exactly in the center of the arms.

Attached File  20160627_155420.jpg   56.4KB   123 downloads

Step 7

Take the rest of the 3/4” PVC and cut slots for the bowstring. The slots should be as long as you want your draw to be, with these measurements you get approx 12” of draw. This is much more exact if you mark off the quadrants with a circle-drawing jig and extend the lines with an architect’s ruler. I used a dremel to widen the slots but I’d recommend a file instead, should be cleaner. The slot needs to be a little over a 1/2" wide. 

Attached File  20160628_162212.jpg   92.82KB   121 downloads

Attached File  20160701_083308.jpg   68KB   127 downloads

Step 8

Assemble your superlative plunger head by drilling a hole in the center of the CPVC endcap; the order of the parts is 1 1/14” metal washer, 1 1/2” rubber, 1 1/4” rubber, #8 finishing washer (remember to put it on with the round side down), 10/32 nylon locknut. Then, attach it to the rod with 4 screws. 

Attached File  20160718_220037.jpg   65.83KB   112 downloads

Step 9

No image of this, but dremel down the sides of the PVC arms in the center (the part that will end up inside the cross at the end) about 1/16" or 1/8". This will improve airflow. DO NOT DRILL A HOLE THROUGH THE ARMS. That only works with a pipe running through the entire assembly, which this design doesn't have.

Step 10

Find a sewer grate. Yeah, sounds ridiculous, but let me explain. For this next part you need a place where there is a hole in the floor and about 2 1/2’ of space under it for the bow arms to end up as you hammer them down. A sewer grate fits the bill nicely. Take your rubber mallet and hammer the bow arms into place, using the marks we made earlier as a guide to know when to stop.

Attached File  20160629_202943.jpg   107.33KB   124 downloads

Step 11

Cut v shaped notches in the ends of the bow arms, making sure they’re pretty perpendicular to the bow. Make sure they’re deep enough so the caps can go on after you add the string. I've seen some bows where these are cut in both sides and the knot ends up on the far side. That's probably better, but this works fine. I'll update the writeup when I make another one where I'll test that idea. 

Attached File  20160629_213246.jpg   42.91KB   116 downloads

Step 13

Take the second endcap and drill a 5/8” hole in the center, then sand it out lightly until the plunger rod slides loosely through it. Wrap it in tape until it fits in the plunger tube and put it in with the end that’s usually closed facing towards the front. Drill a hole on each side for a 6/32 screw (7/64 bit) and tap the holes if you want.  

Attached File  20160701_083325.jpg   59.62KB   120 downloads

Step 14

Lube up your plunger head and assemble the bow. The slotted piece of 3/4” PVC will be placed into the endcap., and the 3/4" tee will be placed on the back perpindicular to the bow. My tee was a very tight friction fit so you probably don't need screws here but I added one on each side anyway. 

Attached File  20160701_083247.jpg   45.94KB   130 downloads

Step 15 

Drill a hole near the back of the rod just large enough for your vinyl tubing. In my case I used a 9 3/2” bit and widened it a bit with a knife. Make sure that the hole is placed such that the vinyl tubing will stop the rod just before it hits the front. This makes the bow dry-fire safe and doesn’t cost any performance because the volume is so large and there is about 12” of draw anyway.

 

Step 15

Tie a knot on one end of the string and put it into the bottom notch. Then twist some wire around the other end and pull it through a 4” long piece of the vinyl tubing.

Attached File  20160628_160420.jpg   43.44KB   117 downloads

Step 16

Remove the wire and eyeball a length of string that will work. Make a knot in it and keep tying knots farther down the string until you have your desired level of power. You can tie multiple knots for different power settings if you want. Add the caps on each end to be sure the string won't come out and to make it look cleaner. You could add a screw to each cap, but I didn't. I might in the future if the cap ever comes off on me.  

Attached File  20160629_222715.jpg   64.75KB   131 downloads

 

Now you’re done! I haven’t tested ranges yet because I didn’t have the right washer on hand to make the seal, but since it has 12” of draw it should be hitting well over 100’ easily like most homemades. 

Attached File  13575589_1731756850412360_2032905150_o.jpg   104.13KB   131 downloads


Quadshot catch templates?

15 May 2016 - 10:38 PM

Does anyone have templates, measurements, etc. for a Quadshot catch? I thrifted one and the catch is broken, so I need to machine a new one. 


Laughing at the Fallen- The 9999 special Directory

21 April 2016 - 11:11 PM

If you know one that should be here. Share it. 

 

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Taobao Link Directory

28 January 2016 - 09:36 PM

In light of starting to organize a mass order for Toronto area nerfers, I realized that we don't have a resource yet for Taobao links, and we all know how annoying it can be to scour Taobao for the items you want. If you know of any good product links, post them here. This might be a useful topic to sticky (wink wink)  This will be sorted by seller, or by creator if a certain item is easiest to list that way. A list of seller's stores that have many items of little consequence (such as knockoff nerf attachments) that you may wish to purchase will be at the bottom (the most useful links will be listed alone).  
 
WORKER
 
Shoulder stock
 
Banana Mags
 
Clear PMags
 
Retaliator Kit (boltsled/plunger rod)
 
Retaliator Kit (spring and other reinforcement pieces)
 
MEGA to Micro barrel adapters for Cycloneshock 
 
Replacement Flywheels for various blasters
 
Fake barrels (longer than stock, good for props, etc.)
 
M4 Buttstock adapter
 
Real-Steel style muzzles (aluminum)
 
Stryfe/Demolisher dart pusher
 
Rapidstrike dart pusher
 
 
 
F10555
 
Longshot Shotgun Grip
 
Retaliator shotgun grip
 
Regular PMags
 
Kriss Vector Stryfe Cosmetic conversion kit
 
Stryfe 3D Printed Picatinny Rails
 
Larger Picatinny Rail Kit for Stryfe
 
Stryfe AK Cosmetic Conversion Kit
 
Alpha Trooper Masada Cosmetic Conversion Kit
 
Longshot 3D printed Picatinny rail
 
M16 Cosmetic Conversion Kit (all pieces, not just the front iron sight)
 
Retaliator front barrel M16/M4 Style iron sight alone
 
More M4 buttstock adapters (in various colors)
AFG (comes in white or black, friction fit)
 
Stock attachment point (hole in back, good for integration on other blasters like a 3k)

 

LILYARMS

 

Vinyl Nipple darts
 
ARTIFACT BLASTER MOD WORKS/ NEW ARTIFACT
 
Really cheap sili-tips

Metal and delrin retaliator triggers

Stryfe aluminum lever mag release
 
YUJIAJUNS
 
Cheapest Rival Balls (quality untested as of 1/28/16)
 
VIPER STUDIO/ SNAKE WAREHOUSE 
Longshot Spring Replacement Kit 14KG  
Aluminum Longshot Plunger Rod 
Longshot Kit (Bolt sled, plunger cap/mickey mouse piece, xplorer PT support clone, etc.)
Magpul AFG
Metal Stampede Gears
Metal Rough Cut Gears
 
 
MEETING GIFTED STAR
 
Knockoff 6 and 12 round clips, banana mag/PMag hybrid
Replacement flywheels (NOT WORKER)
 
SOLDIER BLOGS
 
Replacement flywheels (look interesting)
 
2 mag holder
Folding stock (Military SMG style, looks to be much more stable than the spectre stock)
Flywheel modding kit
Metal Retaliator pump grip

Metal Retaliator plunger rod? No idea
 
BIRD OUTDOORS
 
AFG grips and vertical foregrips (screw tightened)
 
HALLOWEEN HOUSE VANES
 
Mag holders with MOLLE webbing
 
SELLER STORE LIST
 
Meeting gifted star (knockoff attachments)
DIY Metal material shop (aluminum and brass)
 
 
UNKNOWN ITEMS- IF YOU KNOW WHAT THESE ARE PLEASE POST 
 
http://world.taobao....25227.66.n3N18C


Really long drill bits product awareness

08 October 2015 - 06:44 PM

This is sort of a product awareness but it is a modification tool so I thought it belonged here. For some reason if someone still needs a really long drill bit to drill out the ARs in their recon or something McMaster sells them 2854A11. Just thought it was worth putting out there, even though they are really expensive at about $15 US apiece.