clunk07

Thanks, hope that sheds a bit of light on the process. It's not really difficult, most of the hard work is in the prep.

Just one last thing on the stencils, I found it easier to free-hand the leaf stencils, rather than use actual leaves, or downloading templates.

Cheers,

Guaranteed I'll cop a warning or worse for this post, and I've tried to steer clear of this topic, as us Aussie's generally cop enough flak from our Northern hemisphere counterparts, (an island of Nerf convicts.... really?!?) but I can't sit by idly and read about half-assed claims of potential serious injuries from screw-cap darts, or the supposed lack of skill in using this as an alternative to hot-glue domes or slugs.

While the McMaster caps may shatter upon impact, that's something I can't comment on, unless someone would care to ship me some for testing. The 'Snap Cap' branded screw caps used widely here in Australia will not shatter. My proof, try watching this:



Yep, that's a 16kg spring load bbls, plugged 4B, and plugged Titan firing snap cap darts in to a sheet metal garage door.

I won't delve in to the pro's of these darts, like being able to easily alter dart weight to specific powered blasters for increased range performance....

Personally, I think that slugs and hot glue domes are fairly barbaric in themselves, but you use what you can when the alternatives are scarce. We have a guy over here who's developed his own silicon dart tip in two different weights, which appear to be the safest dart head to hit the warring scene. So much so, that a similar version is being used in Singapore. While these tips are designed for custom-made tubular foam, adapting solid rod foam to accept the tips wouldn't be a major issue.

Cheers,

hey mate,
I think you must be the first kiwi modder I've encountered
I've been using the Aussie export paint for nearly 12 months, which is probably around about 50 paint jobs. The biggest issue is you need to do a fair amount of prep work to ensure a really good adhesion, but it's worth the effort. Takes me around 2 hours to prep a Longshot or Stampede, but all my commissions have been extensively used in war games, and have passed these tests without issue.

Flick me a message at clunkweaponsco@hotmail.com and I can direct you to some more modding guides with measurements and materials you'll be more familiar with. Unfortunately we don't have access to some of the awesome modding materials that these guys in the US/Canada do, but we manage to get by.

Cheers,

Mully, if you zoom in on the second picture, you'll see the wire connected behind the orange washer piece on the rod. This is connected to the trigger through a hole. The cable ties on the rod act as a spacer to take the slack out of the trigger pull distance.

Cheers,

Currently I'm only using a single barrel, though I've seen a few people put RSCB's on. Because it vacuum-loads, the single barrel isn't much of an issue, and reloading is fairly quick.

I've found the butane soldering iron to be the easiest, but you could also do it with an electric iron. Just be aware that you won't be able to use the tip for normal soldering once you've done plastic welding with it. Essentially you just use the iron to melt the two pieces together. For large gaps, I just use pieces of scrap from shells that I've cut up, and just feed it in to the crevice, and run the tip over it. If you've done any type of welding/brazing before, this will be a very easy skill to pick up. Try to avoid the fumes/use a respirator etc.

Cheers,