jlidral

Ok, first of all I would like to apologize for taking so long to reply, I have had a really busy week or two. Second of all I would like to thank you guys for all your help. First idea I tried was building up the silver knob with Bondo but that wore down after a few times cocking it. Next I fiddled with the internal for an hour or so before finally giving up and breaking out the Dremel and cutting of the piece I have circled and red below. So far no problems it cocks and fire's fine I still need to test slam firing, but I will get back to you guys on that.

And then to make sure it was air tight (for this make sure you have ALOT of paper towels) i pored some glue (just plain old elmer's glue) down all 6 barrels and the plugged up the holes with a little piece of paper towel. Then after letting it sit for about 30 minuets or so, I unplugged each barrel and then blew down each one, getting rid of the glue. make sure that if any glue gets on something that will be on a moving part or something, that you clean it off right away.

also. every few weeks or so, after regular use, you might have to do a "touch up" with a cotten swab and some more elmer's glue.

Here is a 2 part vid about it

OH! also i forgot to mention that i super glued the barrels together before using elmer's glue to make it airtight...dont just use elmer's glue thats just retareded!
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you know modeling glue works much better than elmers.

I have a question for people who are good at electronics. Would souping up the motor with rc car batteries burn out the motor after awhile?

Also, in regards the AR removal. I noticed that with the AR removal i can feel more air coming out of the plunger tube, but the darts dont go that much farther. I think that to make the AR removal worth it you also have to try to improve the seal.

it depends if you use similar voltage it probable woulden't. look on the side of the motor if you can it might say the voltage range I wouldent go over the voltage range, or you could add up the voltage by the number of batteries d batteries have about 1.5 volts 6 batteries about 9 volts, you could go a few volts over but not too mutch or u will burn out the moter. another solution is to just replace the moter with a better one. good luck let us know how it works.

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If you want to change the rate of fire, take my rc car componentry a step further. Buy a cheapo electronic speed controller (ESC) and a pistol grip remote. Take out all the electronics and fit the ESC, solder connections to the batteries. Cut appart the pistol grip remote. Put the throttle trigger, which is identical to a gun trigger in place of the trigger in the vulcan. House the rest of the electronics somewhere inside. Once connected up, the further you squeeze the trigger the faster it fires.

The use of an actual speed controller will restrict the voltage to 7.2, but with the power of rc car motors that shouldn't be an issue.

This could also be achieved with a variable resistor wired to the trigger, but i'm not sure how the heat generated by the resistor would go with the plastic casing. The advantage of a variable resistor is that you could use as a high a voltage as you wanted (Bar melting the case).

If you would prefer the switch to be an on/off switch as opposed to the rate of fire controller, a variable resistor could be soldered in series with the connection between trigger and motor. Turn the dial to select the rate of fire.

The above idea's would allow any rate of fire to be selected, from very slow to maximum. But if you hold the trigger in it will still keep firing, so it won't be a genuine single shot.

the resistor would likely get hot and melt any nearby plastic, you could set up something to cool it though, or make sure it's not close to too any plastic parts. also it would be cool to see step by step instructions on how to do the rc car version.

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i found a video with the vulcan is fired here is the url: http://video.google....976390278441901 it is first fire about half way through.