It has been three months in the making. This gun was specifically designed for Nerf wars however I think it could be used in any Nerf type game. I am proud to say that this weapon would have probably never been created had I not gone to a war recently with 40+ people in New Jersey.
It is a safe assumption to say that this weapon of doom is indeed “Inspired by APOC 2007"
Doomsayer
doomsayer /? - [doom-sey-er]
–noun
a person who predicts impending misfortune or disaster.
Here is how you can make Doomsayer.
Here is the gun stock in box:
Now to open up the gun you need to do three things.
1. Make the cuts on top and bottom of the orange cap at the front of the gun.
2. Remove the front cap.
3. Remove all the screws. The screws in the front are small and the ones in the back are twice a big.
Now that your gun is open, the insides should look like this.
(Photo courtesy of darkshrimp)
One thing I loved as soon as I saw it was that the cocking bar was already reinforced.
Now we can get to modifying this beast.
We are going to take it step by step to make the overall task seem smaller.
Step 1:
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Lets chop down the shell!
Take out your turret and chop down the front of your shell so it looks like this.
Be sure to leave a bit of a lip in the front. this helps keep the turret pressed against the plunger tube.
The above photo was taken before I cleaned up those rough edges.
You only need to chop down the shell if you plan to do a barrel replacement.
Step 2:
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In this step we will be modifying the rotating mech. It might seem weird to do it now, but trust me it will save you so much frustration later when the barrels get in the way. This mod is to prevent the turret from skipping after the turret has been modded. The turret will skip if the turret is modded unless this is done.
Take your dremel and cut into the metal disk on the back of your turret. Be careful not to cut into the metal rod.
Now with the metal disc out of the way we can now get to the rotating mech.
Pull out the beefy gear wheel. (Beefy gear wheel featured in video.)
Then pull out this gear disc.
Under this gear disc is a spring.
Put some lubricant on the rod of the Beefy gear wheel. Then place the spring over that rod. Then hot glue the shit out of it. Get glue on top of the spring and inside the spring and in between the coils.
Then take your hobby knife and make a nice flat cut across the top of it.
Now take the glued spring and put it back where it belongs. Under the gear disc on the rod.
Then replace the gear disc and then the beefy gear wheel. Now also replace the metal rod that probably fell out earlier. Now we need to get another metal disc to replace the one we cut earlier. Luckily my local Rona carried them. They are called 1/8" pushnut fasteners. You need to get something hollow and long to hammer these in place. a thin piece of brass tubing would work perfectly. I put three of these on to make sure it stays put. I then brushed them down with some fishing glue for assurance.
Here is a pic of the end result.
Now before you go and brush it down with any fishin glue. Close up your gun and make sure it rotates perfectly. If it doesn't the pushnut fasteners are either too far or not far down enough on the metal rod that holds them.
Once they are in place then brush them down with some kind of super glue.
Step 3:
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The Turret mod
In this part of the mod we will be modding the turret. We will be doing a ton of stuff.
First we need to take apart the turret. Unscrew these screws.
Then pull the turret apart. The see through yellow will split into two pieces. I must admit this is pretty magical. (Seen in the video)
Now we have the back end of the turret to play with.
First we will be removing the air restrictors.
To do this we will need to pry off the back end of the turret. I was able to do this with my hands.
Once it has been pulled apart take the yellow part and set it on the table right side up and take something and just force those AR's and pegs through the back end. (Also seen in the video)
Now we need to drill down these circles in the turret to be able to fit our petg inside.
Now adding barrels to this thing is no peach. You have to do it in a specific way because the turrets tight spots are all weird.
Now we choose barrel lengths. I plan on using heavy duty springs so I am going to go with 12" barrels. If you plan on using the stock spring I would recommend short barrels.
I decided to try out some tightening rings with petg. They help a bit, but with me every little bit counts.
Bust out your E-tape and wrap 10.5 inches around the base of your petg. Then place your petg through the bottom and pull it up as high as you can. It should look like this.
Now wrap 5.5" around the top as close to the turret as possible.
Now push it back through the back end so the 10.5" of E-tape is sticking out the back.
Now cover the 10.5" of E-tape with plumbers goop to help create and airtight seal and to hold the petg in place.
Then pull the petg back up so the petg is flush with the turrets edge. Now take the black bottom of the turret and place it against the petg’d turret hard. This will adjust the petg and make sure it is in the right place. Rinse and repeat 11 more times. This is what two completed ones look like.
Its time to start modding this thing to be rear loading. That right bitches! I said rear loading!
Take a look at the bottom black portion of the turret. See those rings where the air flow comes from? We need to widen those. Bust out your dremel and sand it down to the next ring. Here is an image of what I am talking about.
Now that all the holes have been widened. It is time to create an airtight seal between the barrel portion of the turret to the black back end of the turret. Take the cone like part that came with your plumbers goop and do circles of plumbers goop all around the 12 rings. It will look like this.
Now place your newly barreled turret and place it hard against the goopy black back end of the turret.
Then place the top black part with yellow sheath overtop of the barrels.
MAKE SURE THE SCREW PORTS ARE LINED UP!
Screw the screws in. Then place your turret on some painters tape or do what I did and drill a hole in the desk to help keep the turret flat. Then place something very heavy inside the center of the turret. I took an old Coca-cola can and filled it up with copper bb's. Then I took a cup and filled it with all the fishing weights I have.
This constant pressure will help the goop create a better seal.
Let sit for 24-48 hours and you are almost finished with your turret.
Now to get back to the rear loading bit. Take your finished turret and place it in your gun. Make sure the two halves of the shell are tight together. You can use elastic bands or screw it back together. Make sure the top barrel is perfectly aligned with the plunger tube. Then take a thin marker and drop it down the third, fourth and fifth barrel from the top barrel. This will leave a mark where we will be dremeling through our shell.
Now open up your gun and take the turret out. Make three stefan sized holes in your shell where the marks are. Make sure the plastic around the holes stays smooth. This will keep your darts and your rotating smooth.
Congrats you now have a rear loading turret.
Step 4
Now Step 4 may be pointless but I am not sure yet.
I was having problems with the rotating mech skipping all the time so I came up with these solutions before I came up with hot glueing the gear spring. Whether these help or not is still being investigated.
Double up on the rotating arms.
If you look here the rotating arm will only cover half of the beefy gear.
I also noticed that the beefy gear can be pushed down and is a little flimsy and flimsy rotating mechs should not exist. So I took another Rotating mech arm and cut it down to make one perfect rotating mech. With plumbers goop and superglue I was able to get the job done.
I also wrapped E-tape around the outside of this rotating arm to make sure the newly fashioned rotating skirt stays centered.
I am going to be modding another one of these soon. I will see if I can completely skip Step 4.
Step 5
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Here in step 5 we will be doing everything that has to do with the plunger.
Now I must admit as soon as I saw the plunger head I was pissed. This plunger style is not nearly as effective as it's older brothers NF style plunger head. It's the old fashioned Crossbow plunger style garbage.
First thing we need to do is beef up that spring. The stock spring is pretty weak.
To add or remove springs we need to take off the plunger head. Now I will say that this is probably the most frustrating part of this mod. Getting the head off is very tough. I recommend getting a cup of boiling water and
placing the plunger head in it for a few seconds. Then when the rubber is soft, take your flathead screwdriver and pry it off.
Be careful and do your best not to tear it in any way. This rubber head is the only thing keeping the plunger head on.
Now here is where I added an industrial spring and a Longshot spring just because it could take it.
Next you heat up the rubber top and put it back on. Use your flat head screwdriver to help it get in place.
Now lets work on that seal. There will be a gapped area underneath the plunger head. Fill it with hot glue.
Then wrap it in electrical tape. Wrap it until it fits perfect in the plunger tube. This turns it from Crossbow style plunger head into a Maxshot style plunger head. Here is what the new plunger head looks like.
Now even though the outer seal is great the inner seal is garbage. Air escapes the three holes in the center of the plunger head. To fix that you need to make a small pool of plumbers goop in the middle. This helps in a couple ways. It keeps it airtight. It also gets rid of dead space on the plunger head. It also helps keep the plunger head from popping off. Allow 24-48 hours to dry. Also be sure to make sure the middle of the plunger head is clean,dry and lube free before gooping.
Next I wanted to get the most power out of my springs so I used my glue gun to create a wall in between the springs and the plunger head.
The finished plunger rod looks like this.
I also added some foam rubber to the base of the plunger tube to cushion the plunger head.
Now we need to create a better seal between the plunger tube and the turret. I had tried foam craft sheet and insulating foam but the insulating foam was messy and the craft foam sheet was always too thick.
I used hot glue.
Take a piece of Fbr and ram it inside the back of one of the barrels so the foam sits flush with the end of the turret. Then take another piece of foam and ram it inside the plunger tube so it sits flush with the exit.
Now bust out your lubricant and lube the turret and all of this.
Lube anything you don't want glued. Do not lube the stock rubber washer at the end of the plunger tube. We want it to stick to that. Then hotglue all around the stock rubber washer then put the turret back in the case. Then hot glue some more. Do this all quickly. Then place the other half of the shell on and squeeze tight while holding the gun aiming at the ceiling. Wait at least 4 minutes. Do this a couple of times and you will end up with a much better seal. The plunger tubes end will now look like this.
Isn't it beautiful!
Not a perfect seal but a much better one.
Now that we have a much stronger plunger we need a much stronger trigger spring.
Get rid of the guns safety. and create a wall of hot glue and slap an industrial small spring in there.
I actually added more hot glue to this spring later on. Keeping it more secure.
Step6:================================================================================
Insulating noise.
In this step we will be looking at where we can ram foam to help keep the sound of firing down.
This step can be done with pictures. Where there is foam there is a bit of hot glue underneath.
Step 7
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Decor.
In this step we will be talking about how you can customize your Doomsayer.
Do you remember this peg? Just sitting there in the middle of your turret. Begging for something to be put there.
So I found a cool looking skull at a nearby halloween shop. It came with a body too but I only needed the head and it was the perfect size. After I took its hood off I realized it needed a painting as the back of the skull was all unpainted and boring.
Here is the stock skull.
After the first original coat of paint of white and brown mixed.
Now once that dried, I went to town on it.
Then I went into some detail.
Then I dremeled a hole into the back of the head of the skull and filled that with insulating foam. So even the skull absorbs some sound! After that dried I stuck a screwdriver in there and wiggled it around kind of like a lobotomy. Then I filled it with hot glue and stuck it on the peg. I used fbr to keep in perfect positioning while it dried.
So now the hot glue hole was the perfect shape I pulled the head off and filled the hole with a few drops of fishin glue and put the head back on the peg. This way it won't fall off.
The finished skull with placement:
THE END
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If you have made it this far and completed your Doomsayer, Understand you have just made one step closer to becoming Deified.
Stats:
This puppy can shoot on average 115 feet.
Is very accurate.
Can fire 12 rounds in 12 seconds or less.
Is rear loading.
Auto advancing.
Now the best part, There is still ways of making it better!
Here are some photos of the final product.
Doomsayer
Now the videos of the final product.
Doomsayer low quality Youtube
Doomsayer high quality Daily motion.
Comments, suggestions, praises, flames?
