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Modifying A Longshot?

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#176 HOTH

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Posted 26 July 2009 - 03:56 AM

Muwahaha. Excellent. I have begun my crusade for a primary weapon, and the LS is well on its way to being that.



As a side note, I know that TIG did a mod so that the LS's clip would accept Stefans in a friendly manner, but is there any way to make it so that both gun and clip accept stock taggers?


If not, is there any particular recommended method of modifying taggers so that they fit?


Sorry about the swift inquiry, but I have a birthday party on Sunday, and I desperately need to mod my LS so that it can beat the crap out of the competition. Expect to see me at several SoCal Nerf-Offs. :w00t:


Thank you, Sir Piney, for the gift of this thread. *Boweth*


First post, by the way. Expect to see more, and hello all.


I shall become the modificationator. I have ambitious plans for making some truly BAMF guns. ^_^

for your tagged inquiry, try galaxy's cpvc' mod ( look for it in the directory) but replace every cpvc' with PVC. might be worth a shot
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#177 Astray

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 09:47 PM

First off, sorry if this against the rules as I am technically reviving a fairly dead topic, but this is a stickied dead topic so I'm not entirely sure about what the rules are for it.

Anyways, I've been working on modifying my longshot for awhile now and recently I was able to attempt this mod: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=13196 following the photobucket pictures of the mod here: http://www.flickr.co...ith/2822044932/

Now the paint job came out pretty nicely but upon putting the thing back together and trying to use it I ran into a couple of problems that I'm sure someone here knows solutions to fix them.

My first problem is the spring; I cut a 4-3/4" section off an AR-15 spring that I purchased from McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster....9637k26/=8h8t6d) that was recommended by CaptainSlug, if I remember correctly, and inserted it with the stock longshot spring (the cheap black one from the newer longshot models). However, this appeared to be way too much as I could not for the life of me push back enough to catch. So basically my first question is what exactly is the AR-15 spring supposed to be, a replacement or an additional spring?

My second problem is a result of the springs being too strong. If you look at this picture http://www.flickr.co...57606942739490/ you can see how the little plastic bit is supposed to be attached to the metal. Because of strength of the springs I used the piece came off so I think the adhesive I used either wasn't strong enough or wasn't appropriate for bonding plastic to metal. I used Gorilla Epoxy. Which adhesive would be strong enough to work here?
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#178 polycarb

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 07:21 AM

My first problem is the spring; I cut a 4-3/4" section off an AR-15 spring that I purchased from McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster....9637k26/=8h8t6d) that was recommended by CaptainSlug, if I remember correctly, and inserted it with the stock longshot spring (the cheap black one from the newer longshot models). However, this appeared to be way too much as I could not for the life of me push back enough to catch. So basically my first question is what exactly is the AR-15 spring supposed to be, a replacement or an additional spring?

The reason that the springs are too strong is because a [k26] is not an AR-15 spring. Look around at some gun stores for an AR-15 buffer spring.

Edit: slight grammar.

Edited by polycarb, 20 August 2010 - 07:22 AM.

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#179 Astray

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 10:42 AM

The reason that the springs are too strong is because a [k26] is not an AR-15 spring. Look around at some gun stores for an AR-15 buffer spring.

Edit: slight grammar.


While that little bit of information is helpful it didn't answer the questions I was asking. Would a real AR-15 spring be a replacement spring or an additional spring? Also what adhesive should I use to bond the brass and little piece of plastic?
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#180 debandgeek12

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 10:56 AM

Astray, it would be an addition usually.
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#181 Carbon

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 10:59 AM


The reason that the springs are too strong is because a [k26] is not an AR-15 spring. Look around at some gun stores for an AR-15 buffer spring.

Edit: slight grammar.


While that little bit of information is helpful it didn't answer the questions I was asking. Would a real AR-15 spring be a replacement spring or an additional spring?

In addition, like the writeup says. Polycarb answered the way he did because the writeup wasn't wrong: your spring was.
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#182 Zorns Lemma

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 12:07 PM

If you have the [k26], you can just use it as a replacement spring. Cut it shorter rather than longer though and you shouldn't see too much death in your blaster.

As to the plastic nub on the brass breech, your best bet is some sort of two-part epoxy resin. They make stuff formulated to "work" with brass, but brass is pretty evil and not much likes to adhere to it.
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#183 Draconis

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 01:30 PM

If you have the [k26], you can just use it as a replacement spring. Cut it shorter rather than longer though and you shouldn't see too much death in your blaster.

As to the plastic nub on the brass breech, your best bet is some sort of two-part epoxy resin. They make stuff formulated to "work" with brass, but brass is pretty evil and not much likes to adhere to it.



I've always wondered why nobody uses a piece of copper or brass soldered in place.
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#184 Astray

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Posted 21 August 2010 - 12:32 AM

Astray, it would be an addition usually.

Thank you very much for that info.

If you have the [k26], you can just use it as a replacement spring. Cut it shorter rather than longer though and you shouldn't see too much death in your blaster.

As to the plastic nub on the brass breech, your best bet is some sort of two-part epoxy resin. They make stuff formulated to "work" with brass, but brass is pretty evil and not much likes to adhere to it.


Also thank you for that information. I'll need to look into something else then. I used a two-part epoxy resin (Gorilla brand) and it wasn't able to hold it so I either need to find this brass specific stuff or do something else altogether.

I've always wondered why nobody uses a piece of copper or brass soldered in place.

This is a brilliant idea. I was thinking that it might necessary to do something like this but I'm unsure of the strength of solder. Worse comes to worse I could always weld it, but I don't have a clue about how I would go about doing that while I could solder something relatively easy.

Edit: So I've been experimenting with my longshot and I think I've finally found a solution to the problem that is the little plastic nub on brass. I found a thin sheet of brass that I will wrap around the tube leaving a portion of it stick up, kind of like a fastener. From here I'll heat it up and solder it to the tube making what should hopefully be a permanent connection that will be able to withstand even the [k26] spring and the stock at the same time. I have not tested this method yet, but I plan to do it tomorrow so I'll update once I get a chance. Now the only thing I'm worried about breaking is the little black thing that holds the springs inside the tube. I don't know how to reinforce so I'm worried it won't be able to withstand the force. If anyone has any ideas about this that would be great.

Edited by Astray, 01 September 2010 - 10:26 PM.

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#185 soloz1

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Posted 01 December 2010 - 01:08 AM

Very, very, very helpful. Thank you so much for posting this. I will be using these mods to my Longshot.
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