184 replies to this topic

[Xenocidebot]

Hi. Just got in.
I had a few random questions, so here's some stuff i'd like to know about in no particular order.



My longy is pretty basic- we're talking bare bones adding an Eagle Eye and AR 15 spring over the stock one, removing the air restrictor, and anihilating the barrel extension and bipod, opting for putting the handgun where the bipod was (I like tapping, so I just leave that cocked and loaded for use as a bayonet so to speak.)

But accuracy is pretty pathetic, so I'm contemplating things that can be done to the ammunition to make it more stable. Unless somebody knows of an easy way to make stefans at that size they're a no-no, but I was considering size 7 lead fishing weights hot glued to the center of the stock ammo. Has anyone tried this? Also of note would be whether I could get a brass barrel in there without opening the gun up again.

Accuracy is me primary concern. I mostly play with people using mods of the blue Maverick, and they're pretty good with 'em, but I like having the extra ammo and range.

[CaptainSlug]

Search for "Converted Dart Tag Darts" or CDTD or CDTs. Or you can just trim the hollow dome off of the tip of the streamlines.
2-inch length Stefans will work fine in the Longshot provided you cut out the peg inside the bolt.

[Xenocidebot]

CaptainSlug, on Mar 12 2008, 11:09 AM, said:

Search for "Converted Dart Tag Darts" or CDTD or CDTs. Or you can just trim the hollow dome off of the tip of the streamlines.
2-inch length Stefans will work fine in the Longshot provided you cut out the peg inside the bolt.

Great, so I cut down to the hexagonal part. Dart is much more accurate, although it's losign distance, I'm assuming from drop in mass.
I can probably shove something in it to compensate for that though. Thanks.

[Oro]

The reason the dart lost distance is because of the weight. The weight is what also keeps it from abruptly turning, making it more accurate. Stock streamlines fly farther because it is lighter, although this results in the dart going off-course due to the fact that it is less stable because of the lack of weight.

[Galaxy613]

Does anyone know the OD of the O-Ring in the LS? I wanna get me some.

*Edit* For future reference, the OD of the stock LS O-Ring is 1'' and 3/8ths. The width is 3/32th of an inch.

Edited by Galaxy613, 26 March 2008 - 04:01 PM.

[sputnik]

Galaxy613, on Mar 26 2008, 07:55 AM, said:

Does anyone know the OD of the O-Ring in the LS? I wanna get me some.

Just take the plunger head (with the stock o-ring) with you to Lowe's, Home Depot, or Ace, and test different o-rings until you find one that fits well.
I ended up just using two o-ring that i got from Ace.
They were like $.75 apiece.

[Toastie]

I know many of these mods involve adding lube to the plunger, what lube do you guys recommend? I know a water based, but the only lubricant I saw at my hardware store was this stuff called Jig-A-Loo that is "unlike any other lubricant, it contains no oil, grease, wax or detergent" according to their site. Do you guys know about this stuff?

[bobafan]

I've never heard of jigaloo, but you want a silicone based lubricant. Not petrolium or other organic base. They can eat away at the plastic and get to smelling funcky.

[ChiliPepperFender]

Toastie, on Mar 26 2008, 07:28 PM, said:

I know many of these mods involve adding lube to the plunger, what lube do you guys recommend? I know a water based, but the only lubricant I saw at my hardware store was this stuff called Jig-A-Loo that is "unlike any other lubricant, it contains no oil, grease, wax or detergent" according to their site. Do you guys know about this stuff?

I made a thread about this a while ago and everyone told me NOT to use anything petroleum based or WD-40. Other than that silicone based lubricants.

Oh yeah, don't use vegatable oil.

[Toastie]

Well this Jigaloo stuff uses methylene chloride, perchlorethylene, isobutane, and propane. So not a silicone base.

Edited by Toastie, 26 March 2008 - 11:30 PM.

[Forsaken angel24]

Toastie, on Mar 27 2008, 01:29 AM, said:

Well this Jigaloo stuff uses methylene chloride, perchlorethylene, isobutane, and propane. So not a silicone base.

I can personally vouch for the fact that jigaloo has fucked up about 3 of my nerf guns.
Never again. That can went right in the garbage.

[CaptainSlug]

Quote

i seem to be having a prolem when opening my ls the orange handle used to cock the gun wont come off and i dont want to break it. how do i get it off

Use a claw hammer.

Quote

I know many of these mods involve adding lube to the plunger, what lube do you guys recommend?

Don't use anything else. Also available in paste form.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 28 March 2008 - 03:40 PM.

[Lynx]

I usually use silicone paste since it helps with the seal and is very slick. The spray stuff is:

1. Costly
2. Bad for me (I work is close quarters)
3. Difficult to acquire (looked at Ace and Lowes & I already had the silicone paste)

The paste is by 3M and is for brakes and pistons. I recommend it fo' sho'.

[CaptainSlug]

Paste is fine too. The spray is easy to find at automotive supply stores and some Home Depot locations. I prefer it over paste because it's much thinner so it spreads out evenly in plunger tubes.

[Swords]

There was a thread that just went by about removing cocking handles. You get a claw hammer and try real hard to pull it off. Try searching....that's were all my answers come from.

[coolguy1212]

Ok, I've got a question. So i've done carrtoon's mod, and everything is working except every once in a while the dart will fly out of the gun without me pulling the trigger. I'm fairly certain the problem is the catch plate isn't strong enough. Anyone know how to improve the catch plate?

[Galaxy613]

It's probably the catch plate's SPRINGS that'll need to be replaced. Though I too would like to know a alternate catch plate..

[pulletman]

What is the highest strength spring that you can put into an LS without it breaking/having to reinforce the bolt sled?

And how can you reinforce the bolt sled if you needed to?

[xNFx 37]

pulletman, on Apr 13 2008, 01:52 PM, said:

What is the highest strength spring that you can put into an LS without it breaking/having to reinforce the bolt sled?

And how can you reinforce the bolt sled if you needed to?

I'd say a BBB spring ALONE. not with the LS spring. OR a LS + 1st gen NF spring.

It's usually the Bolt sled, or the plastic part on the bolt that breaks. (The part that you put the metal pin through.)

[themilkman]

pulletman, on Apr 13 2008, 12:52 PM, said:

What is the highest strength spring that you can put into an LS without it breaking/having to reinforce the bolt sled?

And how can you reinforce the bolt sled if you needed to?

The most powerful spring I have put in one is the spring from a Vortex Firestorm. Those things are ridiculously strong. It's a little bigger than a stock LS spring and it fits inside the LS spring so it was just perfect. The only problem was that I had to replace the catch spring with a stronger spring that I had in my spare parts bin because sometimes the thing would just fire randomly.

Edited by themilkman, 14 April 2008 - 09:39 AM.

[Ubermensch]

How does one remove the tripod from the longshot?

[rokor]

Its a bi-pod and all you have to do is undo the screws holding it in from the inside.

[laxtk88]

Quote

How does one remove the tripod from the longshot?

Simply open the gun and remove the screws holding it in. I have also heard that there have been problems seperating the piece that holds the legs of the tripod in but I did not experience this problem.

EDIT: Rokor beat me to it.

Edited by laxtk88, 22 April 2008 - 07:23 PM.

[Pebbles]

While looking at a friend's Longshot, I noticed that the catch plate seems a bit fragile. Do they break or need reenforcement?
Thanks.

Edit: Question answered.

Edited by Pebbles, 02 June 2008 - 03:44 PM.

[Bomberman]

Most of the time, you would just need a stronger spring. I have never seen one break before, only the catch spring failing and causing misfires with a too strong spring. I don't know how to reinforce it though. Probably sheet metal or something.