1306 replies to this topic

[Daniel Beaver]

Writeup

Edited by Daniel Beaver, 18 April 2011 - 08:34 PM.

[Ryan201821]

mini-RBP



4" of draw, 8" shorter than the original.

I've also used 1/2" polycarbonate for the spring rest and a shoulder screw, for screw that attaches to the actual catch.



The shoulder part of the screw gives the spring a better surface to rub on. resulting in a super smooth prime.

[thedom21]

[diamondbacknf1626]

So, my work for the day, the Rainbow Rev 2:

Keep in mind, I did not make/design the original Rainbow, so I really can't make this the official "Rev 2," but many improvements have been made between this and the original version. One of which, as you can see, is the use of a new style of handle, the same kind that Ryan developed for use on his RBP, which is super sturdy and mad comfy. It also looks damn good.

The plunger head is also of his design used for the RBP, which works wonderfully. Another very notable change is the design for the catch that I devised...which uses two 6-32 1/4" OD Nylon spacers on each of the screws to provide a perfect spacing between the two circles, eliminating lopsidedness, amongst other issues. Also, rather than tap both sets of holes, only the front set is tapped, which allows the screw to properly pull the assembly tight together, as opposed to tapping both holes, in which case the threads are spread at whatever distance you start screwing the screw in at. It's difficult to explain, but basically this way is much better:

Ryan put together the templates for the new catches, being that the holes needed to be farther towards the outside of the circles in order to accommodate the nylon spacers as well as the sliding catch piece. I'm sure he'll post the templates up when he feels like it.

I also added a couple holes along the top portion of the blaster, drilled and tapped, which will be used to outfit the blaster with a super-sleek shoulder stock, pictures of which I am sure will be up tomorrow. Here are the holes drilled in:


This beauty is already outfitted for a hopper, and will be sportin' an integration and a stock ASAP, as you gents will see. By the way, the seal is perfect, and it has a [k26] spring in it, so I can only assume it shoots mad far.

Edited by diamondbacknf1626, 21 April 2011 - 10:33 PM.

[diamondbacknf1626]

Hate to double post...but...

^Pic with the stock I put on this morn', as well as a million dart hopper and barrel.

The screws securing the stock are all internal and super duper duper sturdy.

[Edible Autopsy]

My take on Kane's Blaster







Catch Area


Sportin' a hopper

[SonReeceSonJensen]

Ever hate your hamp? Because it falls apart? Because it breaks at every joint in the middle of a rush or a DTC volley? Or just plain while running, or even vigorous firing? And you scream, scream till you are sure the PVC itself feels guilty and sad for it's betrayal? I have.

And I solved the problem! GOOP ALL AROUND!

But the magazine was something in wanted to keep removable, so first I reamed a 1/2" coupler like it tried to hit on my wife...


Then I JB MF'ing Welded it on, like it tired to hit on my wife.


What the hell, I'll do it for the barrel as well.


If this falls apart at SPANO I'm going to bludgeon the smaller parts with the larger parts till I have plastic shards which I will melt into foregrips for blasters that WORK!

Edited by SonReeceSonJensen, 25 April 2011 - 10:40 PM.

[Wes7143]

Nearly finished on my bolt action. Just needs a trigger link from the front to back, so it can be fired like a normal rifle. Here's a video to explain.

[diamondbacknf1626]

WTF?

I'll elaborate more and post pictures of the full gun when I stop raging at the fact that the PVC just broke for no reason at all...

[Noodleownz]

My first attempt at a pump action snap. Gets decent range.

[Merzlin]

Added 2 new parts to the pump action PlusBow:
-dubbed "anti-cheek diddle device", or simply polyester pipe nested over the acetal rod on the stock. Not much, but I don't want to slashed. Additionally, it adds to the structural integrity of the stock. No more twisting and buckling!
-wooden foregrip added to the simplistic rectangular grip. This improved pumping by a lot, I don't mind priming it anymore.

Edited by Merzlin, 28 April 2011 - 04:50 PM.

[Wes7143]

Finished up on my bolt action. I might add some metal furniture and decoration here and there, but all of the functional features are in place.



Added an actual trigger.



Trigger link is about as simple as it gets.



I may or may not make a video on this one. I don't think there's anything new enough to have to explain via video, but if anyone has any lingering questions on how it works, feel free to PM me, and I'll explain, or post a video explaining.

[Jlego]

Last year, Split and I wanted to have a gentleman’s wager, over the redesign of the +bow. We never really wrapped it up, but I missed the deadline by a bit if I remember correctly and what have you. First time it got used was May last year when I got to chill with the U3 and all my NJ friends. Anyways, a while before this wager, I had made a Solidworks model of the +bow and set to modifying it to change little things that I thought could use improvements. Making this model was at times.... frusterating.


Still, once this was all done, I could pretty much do whatever I wanted, in theory. This lead to the following final product:

Every piece of this +bow at one point or another touched either a mill or lathe. One of the features is a rectangular plunger rod like rev one but made of aluminum with lathed polycarb plunger head and nylon spacer in the middle of the skirt.

One of the other improvements I was looking for was to make it a little shorter than the normal +bow.

I also added some ¾” foam to the back of the stock for comfort.

Just before we (the LGLF) invaded Canadia, I decided to fix one last issue, where the 2 side plates meet was starting to crack a little bit… so I milled this 1/8” deep in the PC:

Here’s a couple more shots just because it’s been my primary for almost a year now and I never thought anything could replace my crossbow. This gun is the summary of a lot of work and effort and I don’t know what I’d be using without it. Three of the other features that were improvements from the get go were a comfy handle, a 3/4" nylon rod as the top stock support, which coupled with a 1/2" wide priming grip means there is no chance of any kind of face diddle ever, as well as having the bushing entirely inside the plunger tube and mounted 15/16" back so the support won't be snapping. ever. I would expect the bushing to break first, honestly. Lots of little details make this what it is.







More recently, I was commissioned by Lucian to tune up his TornadoBow… which ended up being a lot of work, but it’s pretty freakin cool, totes worth the work. This was the first bunch of parts I made, I eventually had to change the catch, but it was worth it.

http://www.midnightr...ow/capture1.bmp

The final parts and setup were as follows, using a 9in [k25]:








And very lastly, this arrived in the mail tomorrow, it is my new favorite vise ever. www.littlemachineshop.com because it’s a fantastic resource.

Edited by Jlego, 04 May 2011 - 08:29 AM.

[taerKitty]

The GhetTurret:

Design goals:

• No exotic materials. Check. This thing is made out of 1/2" PVC, 1/2" CPVC, and a 1/2" CPVC coupler. It uses epoxy putty, super glue, and, of course, DUCT TAPE!
  
  
• No exotic tooling. Check. This thing requires rotary pipecutters, ratcheting pipecutters, rubber bands, a file, a hammer, and a ruler.
  
  
• Easy to make. Check. Even though the barrels are regularly spaced, it uses basic geometry to place them, so mis-aligning or offsetting barrels is very difficult.

And it's a drop turret, on top of that.

[Zorns Lemma]

zomg buttsex party

[KaneTheMediocre]

The BullPump



Pulleys replaced with some nylon bushings and spacers from Ace, and a too-long bolt. The foregrip is now a polyester tube with a bolt through it



Catch now has a nicer spring--It's extremely weak, but it stays caught without any spring tension, so it doesn't need much.

[venom213]

I made every barrel spacer I could find a template for. Coming soon to a sales thread near you!

Edited by venom213, 07 May 2011 - 08:33 PM.

[diamondbacknf1626]

One Hand Primable Blaster (OHPB)

[aj1234119]

Hey guys, I've been into NERF for a while, but only recently started making homemades. Here is my second homemade blaster, basically a pumpSNAP like the one recently made by Daniel Beaver. The only big changes I made were giving it 6" of draw, using a LSFG handle, and making the body as 2 halves connected by a coupler, which allows for easy maintenance of the blaster. It still needs some sort of housing for the clothespin trigger and a metal washer for the catch face, but other than that it's done.




(Sorry for the bad images, my camera is broken so these are from my cell phone.)

For anyone who can't find 1.5'' thinwall PVC for a pump grip, it its available from Flex PVC here, or you can use 2 pieces of a 1 and 1/4'' coupler glued into 2'' PVC.

Edited by aj1234119, 23 May 2011 - 07:18 PM.

[Ryan201821]

For anyone who can't find 1.5'' thinwall PVC for a pump grip, it its available from Flex PVC here, or you can use 2 pieces of a 1 and 1/4'' coupler glued into 2'' PVC.

Or you can get it in purple!

RainbowPump Rev2



Integrated check valve

[Daniel Beaver]

I've been working on an update to my pump-action SNAP, and have something of a mk2 version ready:




Instead of using fragile hard-to-find 1-1/4" thinwall PVC for the grip section, this verion uses three 1-1/2" PVC couplers. Gorilla tape holds them together very firmly, so much so that I completely skipped my plan to epoxy them together. The center ridges inside the coupler need to be sanded down just a bit with the dremel before they will slide freely, but it is not very much work.

Instead of using cross-bar for priming, I simply use a 10-24 screw. The one pictured is too long, so I had to prop it up using nuts - a 5/8" screw should be just about the correct length. This is a hell of a lot easier to make than the cross-bar design, since you only need to cut one slot, and that slot doesn't need to be off-center.




The most prominent feature is that the body extends all the way to the end of the barrel. The barrel is supported on one end by the hopper, and at the tip by a bunch of couplers, so that it does not wobble independently from the blaster. The front end is robust enough that you can use the blaster as a goddamn war club if you really wanted to.




The hopper sticks out of a slot, and plugs into an internal coupler. You need to dremel down the upper edges so that it will fit.




The hopper is offset, so that you can aim directly down the length of the blaster without anything obscuring your vision. Very easy to aim.




The internals are the same as my other SNAP, so you can follow that thread if you want to build one. Also dry-fireable, because why not? And because someone is going to ask: the barrel is 12", and the entire blaster is 3-1/2 feet long.

Edited by Daniel Beaver, 24 May 2011 - 06:25 PM.

[ilikefish58]

This R3l got re-shelled into....




This. Basically replicated irfanzain's re-shell. There's a stub of 17/32" brass in there for stock darts for HvZ.




Of course, you have to have a clean way to put on the obligatory hopper.



Polycarb iphone camera mount for any tacticool rail.




Very crudely painted Aabow. Just wanted to get paint on it to protect it from the sun and whatnot.

[Ice Nine]

I made a supa' +bow today.



It has single-piece sideplates, made out of quarter inch mirror polycarb. Except, the mirror polycarb is super old and the peeling off action on the back broke, so I was left with huge chunks out of the mirror.



So then I used a bunch of craft foam to make it pretty.



The stock rods are clear, too, using polycarbonate tubes with spacers hammered in. Ultra-pretty and it feels less flexy than the nylon ever did.



AND THEN I PUT RYAN'S PRETTY FACE ON IT. MMMM.

[HasreadCoC]

Ok, my rainbow pistol thing is finally finished, trigger, seal, screws, etc, all finished and in.

ID: 1.5" clear PVC.

Draw: 2.5"

Spring: half a [k26]

Seal: U-Cup.

Ranges (flat, not angled) with a 10inch cpvc barrel and my 1.25" crappy-foam slugs are consistently about 60ft (tape measured). When I last compared the new crappy foam to my old foam, the new foam used in range test consistently decreased range by about 10ft compared to my old foam, so I could see this thing hitting about 70ft with properly made slugs. I plan to test dome darts (glue dome with #6 washer) in the near future, ranges should be close to 100ft with them if previous tests are anything to go on.

All in all, pretty good considering that this is just a pistol-size rainbow, with a 2.5" draw. I can't wait to see what 7" draw full sized rainbows can do.

[Darksircam]

I made a ReconSNAP. All modular and stuff.
Hopper clip nested in 1 1/4" PVC extends the body so the pump handle can fit. Pump can be detached in less than a minute, pump arms locked in with a bolt.