252 replies to this topic

[CaptainSlug]

I have changed the License for the Caliburn from Creative-Commons Non-Commercial to Public Domain. The hobby at large now owns the design and anyone that wants to either develop and sell derivative designs, or sell assembled/kit blasters in parallel with me can do so.

 

This is the same timeline and license I did with Plusbows because I knew I would never personally be able to produce enough of them for them to make a difference in the hobby. I am producing infinitely more Caliburns than I ever did Plusbows, but there are International sales that I think could more efficiently (and more cheaply) be offered domestically in places such as United Kingdom, Australia, Singapore, and Taiwan than would be feasible for me to produce and export to those customers over the next year.

 

So if anyone in those countries is reading this and would like to sell these over there in my stead I'm fine with that. You can localize the hardware used or produce them identically to how I am now. Not everyone is willing to pay $65 in shipping beyond the sale price to get one of these and I understand that.

 

The largest quantity of anything Nerf-related that I ever produced was Longshot foregrips. I made 150 of those over 3 years. Given the current rate of production I expect to surpass that number with Caliburn-related items before Christmas. I'm on the 40th blaster (kit or assembled) and have put together over 50 hardware sets.

[CaptainSlug]

CHANGE NOTE 08/30/17: Moved a few parts out of the 100percentinfill folder. After printing a ton of these not as many parts require being printed solid as I had previously assumed.

I have also added some RAM2 variations to the Optional parts folder. One doesn't include the o-ring undercut so it will be more durable than the standard, but will lose 10% of its muzzle velocity compared to using an o-ring with the standard RAM2. The other file is the same, but has a smaller ID and could potentially be used to handicap performance below 150fps so that your blaster will comply with the majority of HvZ rules.

 

https://www.thingive...m/thing:2376150

 

For those interested in INCREASING performance you can eliminate leakage between the BOLT1 and RAM2 parts by applying sealant between them. Adhesives like E6000, Hot Glue, Silicone caulk, or RTV silicone can be used to accomplish this easily and will get you a slight performance bump.

I have not yet had time but I would like to experiment with replacing the skirt seals with o-rings.

[CaptainSlug]

[NERF870525]

I created a facebook group for the Caliburn, please join and share your experience there too! 

 

https://www.facebook...18600765426644/

[CaptainSlug]

Two video reviews on the same day.

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHnpNL0Rv5Y

[CaptainSlug]

From the mysterious bowels of Facebook. This customer bought one of the first batches of hardware kits.

And on the opposite end of the spectrum, I'm discussing with several people on ways to reduce the cost of the blaster. While also trying to push the design more towards obviously being a toy so that countries with more vaguely worded laws won't have as many issues with allowing the use of these.

 

One way to do that is to go back to CLEAR plunger tubes. And remove as much of the exposed metal as is feasible. The current aluminum spacers could be painted white, but I'm also going to try using white nylon tubing as a substitute. With Jim's help I'm also hoping to get the design to be compatible with O-Rings rather than skirt seals.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 06 September 2017 - 11:23 PM.

[CaptainSlug]

I somehow keep neglecting to post this. /u/PianoManDaniel is working on it.

 

https://www.reddit.c...tible_caliburn/

 

https://www.reddit.c...n_rival_update/

[joneill809]

I've printed out the available RAM variants, as well as an experimental o-ring replacement for P1. The RAM configurations I'm looking at are:

• RAM2 (current stock version)
• RAM2 - aluminum
• RAM2n
• RAM2r
• RAM2O (o-ring)
• P1C (o-ring)

 

My intent is to profile the range of RAM options with a [k26] and a [k25]. I'm posting what I have collected so far. I've looked at RAM2, RAM2O and P1C with a [k26]. I will wrap up the run with the n and r variants after I replace the spreader I broke during testing. I'll then repeat the run with the [k25].

 

Testing was done with a Caldwell Chronograph and an indoor light kit. I used Worker version 1 stefan darts. To date, these Worker darts have been the most consistent and accurate with my distance and velocity profiling of the Caliburn. I'll continue to use these darts for my testing so I can compare to a larger library of past results. There are some dart types that yield higher velocities (and some lower), but I get better groupings with Worker when I'm pushing back 10's of feet for distance profiling with the chronograph using the Caliburn. Each average represents a population of 100 shots for each RAM / seal combination tested.

 

Here's the summary data of the average velocities recorded for the 100 shot samples per configuration that I collected. Note there's a 5% to 10% 95th percentile confidence interval around these averages (not pictured here). You can see the full stats below in the complete graphic at the end of this post.

 

 

The air seal on the full o-ring configuration was a big improvement over my initial print of the original skirt seal configuration and you can see the impact on the velocity readings. You can see the 20 fps gap between the o-o-o configuration and the stock o-s-s configuration. That gap will likely narrow after I run some tests with a sealed bolt, but for now, I'm not sealing the bolts because I don't have enough skirt seals to glue down the bolts on all the RAMs I want to test.

 

Hopefully these velocity profiles will aide folks in selecting a configuration for the fps limits being targeted for different events. More to come ...

 

The full data sets:

 

[CaptainSlug]

Thanks to Joe for evaluating the o-ring parts for me. I will be transitioning Caliburn production to o-rings around serial #120. Caliburn #100 will be the first production blaster to use o-ring and will be printed in gold. But after #100 production will continue with skirt seals until I run out of them.

 

The new ram design and updated plunger STL files will be backward compatible and customers that already purchased skirt seal based Caliburns can upgrade to o-rings, or get a similar gain in performance by simply sealing the gap between their BOLT1 and RAM2 parts. This can be done with Hot Glue, E6000, or silicone caulk.

 

I am also in the process of evaluating a lower power spring for customers in the UK and elsewhere that are limited to 130fps muzzle velocities due to either local laws or game rulesets.

[jimmythefly]

First off, thanks to CaptainSlug for all the work that went into this. Believe me I appreciate not only the basic work that went into the design, but then to transform that to a kit that requires zero drilling. Not to mention parts diagrams and assembly instructions.  I haven't owned any nerf anything since I was about 7 years old, looked it up on a whim, ended up here, and kinda fell down the rabbit hole. 

 

I'm currently working with the 3d files for the Caliburn to build my own. I've sourced the hardware and have made some changes to the 3d printed parts to suit. I've read the whole thread but honestly not being well-versed in Nerf and not having one in my hands my questions may have been answered I apologize if I am repeating things that have already been answered:

 

Before I go any deeper, can someone please describe the function of the dart guide and the jam door? I believe I understand them but want to make sure before I go changing things too much. 

 

1) Dart Guide: Has a conical tapered face that helps the dart enter the back of the barrel cleanly. Looks like this is adjustable vertically so you can fine tune it, correct? 

 

2) Jam Door:  Constructed so it is easy to open and remove a squashed dart that did not feed cleanly. How fast/easy does thes need to open typically -like should it be a simple no-tools operation that will be used fairly often? Is opening a jam door easier/faster than just pulling the mag and reaching into the magwell?

 

3) The Grip and Grip Spacer: Currently two separate printed pieces. If my print bed is big enough, any reason to not just combine them into one solid part?

 

4) Plunger Tube and the Stock Spacer tube: I'm planning on using one length of sch 40 clear tube to combine these. Assuming I get my seals right and modify the Stock Alt2 collar piece, there is no reason not to do this, correct? I will also need to cut a hole in the bottom of the tube for the Sear.

 

Thanks!

[CaptainSlug]

1) That's correct. It can adjust vertically but it's really just to make sure that the RAM doesn't rub on it too much.

 

2) It's faster to just pull the mag. I've never had to remove one for any reason other than disassembly.

 

3) They can be combined.

 

4) That's correct Having STOCK_ALT2 provide the slot instead just makes assembly and alignment easier.

[Meaker VI]

I'm currently working with the 3d files for the Caliburn to build my own. I've sourced the hardware and have made some changes to the 3d printed parts to suit.

You aren't just buying a hardware kit from slug? Any reason for that? He sells them for less than you can usually acquire the individual parts for.

[jimmythefly]

You aren't just buying a hardware kit from slug? Any reason for that? He sells them for less than you can usually acquire the individual parts for.

 

My workplace has a couple of different hardware accounts, so although I pay for parts I don't pay for shipping. There are also a couple of excellent local walk-in hardware stores near me (Tacoma Screw, Stone Way Hardware, Hardwicks). Not to mention Online Metals is in Seattle and you can order materials and pick up in person. I also plan on making a couple blasters so having extra parts doesn't hurt. And of course we have some hardware and o-rings on hand already so I only really needed the specialty stuff like spring and shaft seal.  

 

I was also impatient and his kits were sold out when I ordered hardware (though I haven't even finished my design so I could have waited).

 

But the biggest reason is I knew I wanted to change some things up. I have a preference for metric hardware and either hidden hex nuts or simply not using hex nuts. I want continuous tube bracing from muzzle to butt (the parts called "spacers" in the kit). I wanted to eliminate the threaded rod if possible. I wanted to fuss with the 3d files and change the visual style of the blaster a bit. 

 

I don't have a machine shop, but I have the typical saws, drill, tap&die set, etc. of a modest home shop. So some of the design that is built to be screwdriver and glue only assembly I could alter. 

 

 

This is my first blaster and having never even built or handled a stock caliburn I might be making unneeded changes and could possible make things worse but I think it will go OK. 

I want to reiterate again I woudl have had ZERO idea where to even start on my own design. The way this was developed and is open-source is really fantastic. 

[CaptainSlug]

The third printer is setup

 

I found a use for this small collection of baby clothing hangers.

 

 I wanted to eliminate the threaded rod if possible.

They're vital for tensile strength of the design. You have to use some form of steel hardware to keep all the printer parts together and keep the stresses of the spring off of the majority of them. You can look at alternative types of hardware like extremely long bolts, float rods, cross-drilled rods with cotter pins, and so on.

Or you move backward to selecting a thicker continuous tubing for the plunger tube and will have to attach all of the printer parts to it.

 

Switching to metric isn't difficult. The nearest size to 10-32 is M4.

[Meaker VI]

But the biggest reason is I knew I wanted to change some things up. I have a preference for metric hardware and either hidden hex nuts or simply not using hex nuts. I want continuous tube bracing from muzzle to butt (the parts called "spacers" in the kit). I wanted to eliminate the threaded rod if possible. I wanted to fuss with the 3d files and change the visual style of the blaster a bit. 

If that's what you're doing (bearing in mind Captian Slug's advice, avoiding threaded rods kept me from ever completing a design for this a year or so ago), I've got some ideas on how to modify the design to be a bit tighter and still high performance I've been slowly chipping away at. My printer died on me and so I can't prototype parts anymore so it's taken a backseat to other concepts.

I've also [pmed] you, I live in western WA and own a Caliburn.

Edited by Meaker VI, 17 September 2017 - 11:06 AM.

[jimmythefly]

 

They're vital for tensile strength of the design. You have to use some form of steel hardware to keep all the printer parts together and keep the stresses of the spring off of the majority of them. You can look at alternative types of hardware like extremely long bolts, float rods, cross-drilled rods with cotter pins, and so on.

Or you move backward to selecting a thicker continuous tubing for the plunger tube and will have to attach all of the printer parts to it.

 

Switching to metric isn't difficult. The nearest size to 10-32 is M4.

 

What are float rods?

 

I'm going with cross-drilled, plus some method to adjust the tension so that I don't have to get the cross pin locations dead nuts. Might just leave space for shims somewhere, but ideally it would be something threaded that I could slowly turn to achieve tension. 

 

I considered using thicker-walled tube and tapping it internally. But I like how the rear half is tensioned together separately from the front, so if I wanted to use a continuous tube I still would have wanted something midway near the magwell to hold tension. I looked at shaft collars or grub screws for this but abandoned them for now. 

 

Part of this is that I have some kickass brightly colored anodized tube from an old backpacking tent, And I though it would look pretty cool rather than the typical silver. 

 

I didn't think about the thicker plunger continuous tube + attaching parts to it. I'm curious how much heavier my full sch 40 plastic tube will be vs. the aluminum+plastic of the unmodified design. I mostly chose full plastic because I wanted the full clear tube look. 

 

 

 

 

If that's what you're doing (bearing in mind Captian Slug's advice, avoiding threaded rods kept me from ever completing a design for this a year or so ago), I've got some ideas on how to modify the design to be a bit tighter and still high performance I've been slowly chipping away at. My printer died on me and so I can't prototype parts anymore so it's taken a backseat to other concepts.

I've also Private Messaged you, I live in western WA and own a Caliburn.

 

I'm moving in a few weeks but I have access to my work printer until then (that's what I'm stealing time on at nights). I'm trying to not change the design too much but it's hard not to tinker. I should just get this one built already and go from there. 

Edited by jimmythefly, 18 September 2017 - 01:35 AM.

[CaptainSlug]

PURPLE

[CaptainSlug]

New milestone today. I've selected THE WEAKEST SPRING you can use in a Caliburn and still manage to get it to fire darts. Why? Because Nerfers in the UK have a performance cap of 130 fps. And because some HvZ rule sets have a similarly low performance cap, several prospective customers in the US and Australia have asked if such an option is feasible.

 

McMaster PART# 9637K31

With two o-rings on the bolt I'm getting an average of 100 fps. If the gap between BOLT1 and RAM2 were sealed I would expect a 10% jump in performance. The prime on this spring is absurdly light and the performance is more than safe enough for indoor play and ranges down to point blank.

 

Switching to this spring requires NO ALTERATION to any of the parts of this blaster. You just split the blaster in half or open up the back end and swap out the spring. There are probably other springs that are comparable or ever so slightly more powerful than this one, but I haven't found any that are drop-in replacement options. 9637K32 would also probably hit as good or slightly better performance, but its ID would require a custom 1/2" diameter StockCore part.

[Lucian]

So as of late, I've been plagued with the issue of all of the hex nuts coming loose. I have a few ideas about making the experience of dealing with this easier. I'm thinking that you could use any of the following techniques - 

 

1) Fully embed one hex nut per threaded rod. See: http://solidutopia.c...-captive-parts/

 

2) Use a captured hex nut recession for one of the threaded rod's fasteners 

 

3) Threaded insert for one of the rod's fasteners??? I'd just be worried about the 3D printed part stripping and the insert eventually having nothing to bite into.

 

There's more reading on all this available at: https://www.fictiv.c...d-printed-parts

 

The hard part about any of this is that you need a way to keep the threaded rod from rotating during assembly. It's not the easiest thing to do, I'm considering adding a set screw or two where possible to help lock the rod in place. 

 

By securing one nut per rod, you gain the bonus of not needing two wrenches. If you can keep the threaded rod from rotating when you tighten the blaster up, you'd be able to disassemble & reassemble everything with just a Leatherman - to me that's a big added value.

 

What do you all think?

Edited by Lucian, 26 September 2017 - 11:42 AM.

[CaptainSlug]

The BUTT part can have embedded hardware or just hex sockets for nuts printed into it. Likewise the Muzzle piece could as well. The magwell however doesn't have the luxury of available space for that and it's the point where disassembly takes place for the most part. So the solution there would be to just use nylon-insert lock nuts, or use jam nuts (which is what the acorn nuts are doing). And that could be done at both ends of the threaded rod.

 

I've switched to using those for the plunger assembly as that's the only thing that keeps coming apart on mine.

 

Similarly the o-ring update to the design will replace the 1-1/4" length screw in the RAM/Bolt assembly with two nylon lock nuts while also removing leaks.

 

The only downside of nylon-insert lock nuts is that they can only be installed and removed a few times before the nylon stops doing its job.

[jimmythefly]

 

2) Use a captured hex nut recession for one of the threaded rod's fasteners 

 

 

The hard part about any of this is that you need a way to keep the threaded rod from rotating during assembly. It's not the easiest thing to do, I'm considering adding a set screw or two where possible to help lock the rod in place. 

 

By securing one nut per rod, you gain the bonus of not needing two wrenches. If you can keep the threaded rod from rotating when you tighten the blaster up, you'd be able to disassemble & reassemble everything with just a Leatherman - to me that's a big added value.

 

 

If you use a distorted-thread lock nut on one end, and a nylock on the other that would work fine. 

In my experience the distorted-thread type require more torque to install, which means that they will stay put and keep the threaded rod from rotating while you wrench the nylock nuts on and off. 

 

So you'd first install the threaded rod into the distorted-thread nut with both parts loose. Grip the rod near the middle with pliers or whatever so you don't booger up the threads anywhere important. Then slide the whole thing into place with the nut nesting inside the hex recess you have created in the 3d printed part. 

 

And you could always use some loctite red if you really want them to stay put. 

 

I have done this sort of thing before on other projects. It will be worth it to make a test part with hex recesses printed at .2mm size increments to see what size gives the best fit for the nuts you are using. 

 

 

FAIR WARNING: I have not actually built a Caliburn yet so please double check to be sure you can assemble it the way I think you can. 

[CaptainSlug]

Things to note in the above image

 

1. I've switched from aluminum tubing to Nylon tubing for the spacers. This reduces the hardware cost for a single blaster by $10 and provides two color options (Black or White)

2. I've added a barrel shroud (not a shoulder thing that goes up) as a fourth spacer in the front assembly. These can be made out of 1/2 SDR 13.5 PVC Pipe or 3/4 PEX. Either cut to 10-3/4" length. This provides SIX color options (Black, White, Blue, Red, Orange, Lavender) and many others if vinyl dye or stain are used to recolor the PVC pipe. Price of this added part is below $1 and helps to improve the toy-like appearance of the blaster.

3. The SPREADER parts are going to be primarily orange from now on. As are the RAM. I am having both of these printed in ABS by an outside vender (temporarily).

4. Purple/Blue is a weird color combo that only one person has ever chosen.

[CaptainSlug]

I will be releasing an updated file set within the next week that will include the o-ring based parts. I will also be using clear plunger tubes as the standard from here forward.

 

I would also like to point out that I just printed the 100th Caliburn part set. By December I'm likely to have made more of these than I ever made of Longshot foregrip kits.

 

Edit: And now there's a body kit or derivative Caliburn product coming out soon from Argus Modworks.

 

Edited by CaptainSlug, 04 October 2017 - 05:58 AM.

[CaptainSlug]

https://www.thingive...m/thing:2376150

 

CHANGE NOTE 10/04/17:

• Changed MAGWELL Inside profile to improve compatibility with JET Katana Mag adapter.

• MAGWELL upper through-hole for long pin is now a step-down feature that retains that part so that it cannot escape while under spring load. Mag Release hole is one-sided and can be retained with a cut section of o-ring as a plug.

• Widened through holes in a variety of parts to reduce the likelihood for drilling after print.

• Narrowed JAM part to make it compatible with Artifact P-Mags.

• Plunger and Ram components are now available for both O-Rings and Skirt seals. O-ring design has no leaks, but skirt seal option is still available for backwards compatibility purposes. O-Ring design also involves NO GLUE for assembly.

• Increased the size of the spring pegs on TGUARD2 which were failing to print with cheaper filaments.

[Zorns Lemma]

Is there a reason the holes in the plastic bolt attachment for mounting the rails are printed so loose? In ESLTs any hole that goes into the plunger tube is tapped, even if all structural support comes from external tube or rails, because this mean the incoming screw will mostly seal.

Most of the holes still have to be drilled out, so I feel it's reasonable that even if the horizontal/ortho-planar aluminum rail mounting holes on the bolt piece aren't tapped, they should at least be printed to a smaller bore, and then either drill+tap it for 4-40 or drill a slightly larger hole and self tap the 4-40 rail attachment screw through there.

I epoxied together my bolt but still saw poor outdoor performance even with a [k26] until I filled the holes in that rail area in with MEK.