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New style of internal catch

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#76 utahnerf

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Posted 11 January 2011 - 05:22 PM

How much more is a RainbowPump?
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#77 Ryan201821

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Posted 11 January 2011 - 05:33 PM

How much more is a RainbowPump?

To make one of mine, which are the only ones I know exist, you are likely to spend at least $90-100 depending on what materials you use, where you order them from, and what quantity you order them in.
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#78 utahnerf

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Posted 11 January 2011 - 10:50 PM

How much more is a RainbowPump?

To make one of mine, which are the only ones I know exist, you are likely to spend at least $90-100 depending on what materials you use, where you order them from, and what quantity you order them in.


Ok, thanks for the info Ryan.
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#79 TxNerfer

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Posted 12 January 2011 - 09:06 PM

I have a few questions reguarding the construction - Is it completely necessary to use clear pvc for the entire plunger tube or can you just use a couple inches, put the catch in the middle, and use internal couplers for either side? Sounds like it would work, but I could be missing something.

Also, do you rainbow builders prefer to drill the holes for securing the catch in the plunger tube before placing the catch in the plunger tube or while the catch is in the plunger tube?
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#80 Ryan201821

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Posted 13 January 2011 - 12:36 AM

I have a few questions reguarding the construction - Is it completely necessary to use clear pvc for the entire plunger tube or can you just use a couple inches, put the catch in the middle, and use internal couplers for either side? Sounds like it would work, but I could be missing something.

Also, do you rainbow builders prefer to drill the holes for securing the catch in the plunger tube before placing the catch in the plunger tube or while the catch is in the plunger tube?

Theoretically, it's not necessary to use clear PVC. Kane made a Rainbow PAC using opaque PVC for the plunger tube. It works very well, remarkably. He missed the catch a couple times when trying to put screws through the side of the spring rest. So far it's holding together.

Even if you make yourself a tool or template to align it, it's still going to be hard getting it aligned perfectly. It's already hard enough to align the holes perfectly since you don't have much room for error when drilling and tapping a hole in the side of 1/4" material for a #6 screw. One of the ways you could fix that is if you made the spring rest a thicker material, like 3/8". or even 1/2". This would give you much more room for error.

Personally, I wouldn't want to attempt using opaque PVC for the plunger tube, at least while using 1/4" material for the spring rest. Regardless, it still makes construction more difficult attaching the catch, handle and other unrelated small things. Using a small piece of clear for the catch, and using the actual PT opaque, would be doable. Two things wrong with that though. It would make your blaster much longer, and nullify the reason for using clear PVC in the first place, which is price. Internal couplers usually cost around $3-$4 shipped. For most the Rainbows I build, the plunger tube only costs $4-5 per blaster. Also as it is, these blasters are plenty long enough. Adding another 2-4" would make a pump-action blaster more enormous than it already is.

And for securing the catch, first thing to do is drill a hole for the screw that's connected to the catch. Assemble the catch assembly, put it in, and add the screw for the catch. Tighten that down until the catch assembly can't move. Make sure the catch assembly is aligned perfectly, so the catch can move up and down freely. Now you drill your four holes through the PT, into the spring rest, then tap those holes. Then take the whole thing out, deburr the holes, and put it back together.
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#81 shardbearer

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Posted 13 January 2011 - 06:39 PM

What I did was mark and drill the holes without the catch in, then put it in and drill through again. This way you can see if it is lined up correctly.
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#82 diamondbacknf1626

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Posted 21 April 2011 - 10:30 PM

I figured I'd post this here as well as the Homemade pictures thread, being that it's relevant.

So, my work for the day, the Rainbow Rev 2:
Posted Image
Keep in mind, I did not make/design the original Rainbow, so I really can't make this the official "Rev 2," but many improvements have been made between this and the original version. One of which, as you can see, is the use of a new style of handle, the same kind that Ryan developed for use on his RBP, which is super sturdy and mad comfy. It also looks damn good.
Posted Image
The plunger head is also of his design used for the RBP, which works wonderfully. Another very notable change is the design for the catch that I devised...which uses two 6-32 1/4" OD Nylon spacers on each of the screws to provide a perfect spacing between the two circles, eliminating lopsidedness, amongst other issues. Also, rather than tap both sets of holes, only the front set is tapped, which allows the screw to properly pull the assembly tight together, as opposed to tapping both holes, in which case the threads are spread at whatever distance you start screwing the screw in at. It's difficult to explain, but basically this way is much better:
Posted Image
Ryan put together the templates for the new catches, being that the holes needed to be farther towards the outside of the circles in order to accommodate the nylon spacers as well as the sliding catch piece. I'm sure he'll post the templates up when he feels like it.

I also added a couple holes along the top portion of the blaster, drilled and tapped, which will be used to outfit the blaster with a super-sleek shoulder stock, pictures of which I am sure will be up tomorrow. Here are the holes drilled in:
Posted Image

This beauty is already outfitted for a hopper, and will be sportin' an integration and a stock ASAP, as you gents will see. By the way, the seal is perfect, and it has a [k26] spring in it, so I can only assume it shoots mad far.

Edited by diamondbacknf1626, 21 April 2011 - 10:31 PM.

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QUOTE(TxNerfer @ Nov 13 2010, 12:42 PM) View Post

Hey...I got a crazy idea: how about you stop all that sigging stuff? It's not even my thread and it annoys me.

#83 Daniel Beaver

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 09:16 AM

Looks good.
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#84 Ryan201821

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 12:17 PM

Here are those templates Diamondback was talking about.

Download Here.

And here are the nylon spacers he used, 94639A301.
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#85 diamondbacknf1626

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 08:46 PM

Here are those templates Diamondback was talking about.

Download Here.

And here are the nylon spacers he used, 94639A301.


Thanks for puttin' them up, man. Keep in mind, guys, you can also pick up the spacers needed at your local hardware store, most likely. They're pretty easy to find.

Posted Image
^Pic with the stock I put on this morn', as well as a million dart hopper and barrel.

The screws securing the stock are all internal and super duper duper sturdy.Posted Image

Edited by diamondbacknf1626, 22 April 2011 - 08:47 PM.

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QUOTE(TxNerfer @ Nov 13 2010, 12:42 PM) View Post

Hey...I got a crazy idea: how about you stop all that sigging stuff? It's not even my thread and it annoys me.

#86 ghost recon

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Posted 26 June 2011 - 02:23 PM

To make one of mine, which are the only ones I know exist, you are likely to spend at least $90-100 depending on what materials you use, where you order them from, and what quantity you order them in.

what happend to you on youtube i love your vids and your crazy friends

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