#101
Posted 28 December 2010 - 09:19 AM
#102
Posted 28 December 2010 - 11:33 AM
You are really cool!
#103
Posted 28 December 2010 - 02:44 PM
ABS as a material is not weaker than PVC, but stronger. Now, ABS pipe vs PVC pipe, PVC is stronger. ABS pipe isn't solid ABS, and will have a thin foam core in between the ABS walls. If you look on the ABS pipe, you can usually see the word "foam" displayed. This is generally why ABS is cheaper, more flexible, and lighter. As far as using it instead of PVC, it doesn't make much of a difference for a SNAP. ABS pipe will be bend a lot more before breaking, but fail quite dramatically and abruptly. PVC pipe is more rigid, better in the cold, and is also easier to machine.ABS is weaker than PVC, and can shatter. Probably okay, though.
So really, just use PVC.
#104
Posted 30 December 2010 - 12:54 AM
If you have to choose between two kinds of clothespins, pick the weaker one. It'll still catch fine because the PVC holds the nail in place, not the spring. And with a weaker spring, you reduce the pressure on the catchface and make priming easier.
A simple way to measure your trigger nail is to cut it to the height of your clothespin + 3/8". The PVC wall is about 1/8", and an 1/8" trigger pin is enough to hold it in place reliably. When smoothing out the nail edges you'll shave off a bit of the extra length, and the remaining extra is a margin for error.
Plunger heads with rubber washers are very good. They double as plunger padding. Just make sure to use the right kind of lubricant - anything like petroleum jelly or plumber's grease (AKA more petroleum jelly) will eat your washers. If there's suspicious black goo when you wipe your washers off, it's bad lube.
Edited by Darksircam, 30 December 2010 - 12:57 AM.
#105
Posted 31 December 2010 - 10:56 PM
Just wanted to point out that most brands of plumber's grease are completely fine for your seal and are not petroleum jelly, I've actually yet to find one that's bad. Hell, what do you think its applied to in plumbing?Just make sure to use the right kind of lubricant - anything like petroleum jelly or plumber's grease (AKA more petroleum jelly) will eat your washers. If there's suspicious black goo when you wipe your washers off, it's bad lube.
But your point about black slime is a good one - that would be a sign that your seal is degrading.
Edited by TantumBull, 31 December 2010 - 10:57 PM.
#106
Posted 01 January 2011 - 10:13 AM
Made that on my lathe. If you think about it it is essentially a cross between the superlative and the preeminent plunger heads.
#107
Posted 01 January 2011 - 11:26 AM
I don't know if it has been mentioned, but:
Walmart clothespins are the best. Carbon's moral issues with Walmart notwithstanding. They are the most sturdy plastic clothespins I have come across in a regular store.
On another note:
Are we restricting this thread to clothespin catches? That always seemed like a defining characteristic of a SNAP. And while there are all sorts of new-fangled catch designs out there, I think it should be mentioned that the clothespin trigger is a proven design, which new modders should try.
Edited by Daniel Beaver, 01 January 2011 - 11:27 AM.
#108
Posted 01 January 2011 - 12:19 PM
And Beaver, I would probably agree with that assumption. I know that when I mistakenly added the rainbow catch because I hadn't read the thread carefully I was quickly corrected that the rainbow wasn't a snap. So yeah, I suppose I would argue that a clothespin trigger defines a snap. Then again, you could also argue that any catch design that doesn't involve cutting polycarb would be valid, that is anything that fit under Carbon's idea of a simple gun that anyone can easily build.
It would be helpful if Carbon gave his opinion on this, as something similar came up earlier in the thread and he made some valid statements.
#109
Posted 02 January 2011 - 03:11 PM
I've tried GOOP overnight. After four test firings, the trigger breaks off. Then I tried marine epoxy putty after cleaning off both sides with rubbing alcohol. The e-putty just completely peeled off the plastic on the first test. Again, 8 hours to cure.
Should I sand it down even more and goop again? Or is there a problem with my method?
#110
Posted 02 January 2011 - 04:52 PM
Edited by WicketTheModder619, 02 January 2011 - 04:52 PM.
#111
Posted 02 January 2011 - 06:57 PM
Why I am boycotting HasbroAs I said I have not not alot of testes yet but I will be once I finish the mod.
#112
Posted 02 January 2011 - 08:40 PM
Don't worry so much about what other people will allow. Throw your own wars and kick your friends' asses until they all want one.
#113
Posted 02 January 2011 - 09:15 PM
#114
Posted 02 January 2011 - 09:45 PM
1. Thank you, I take donations in horse/wolf porn
#115
Posted 02 January 2011 - 09:59 PM
It would be helpful if Carbon gave his opinion on this, as something similar came up earlier in the thread and he made some valid statements.
Ooh, philosophical SNAP discussion.
At first, a SNAP was more like a concept than a plan: easy to build with good performance. However, it's been sort of codified into a set mechanical design. If someone says they built a SNAP, there's a pretty good idea of what was made.
That said, I think there are a few elements that mechanically define a SNAP, with the clothespin being the most obvious. However, I would offer that the catch system itself is what more uniquely identifies a SNAP: after all, the clothespin is just the return spring and trigger lever. By the catch system, I mean a pin catch which engages a 360 degree catchface that has a close fit to the plunger tube. This seems to be common to every SNAP, and differentiates it from plate and ring catch systems.
A classic SNAP uses a clothespin, but I think another return spring system would be fine. If the catch itself changes, then I'd say it's probably SNAP-like, but not a SNAP.
Now, philosophy, something I've mentioned before. Beyond physical contruction, there's what I call the SNAP philosophy, the "hacksaw and a drill" approach to building. I think SgNerf's R-series blasters are very SNAP-like this way. It's what I keep repeating: the "S" stands for simplified, and it's why I've always tried to stay away from exotic parts or complex machining. A SNAP should be something that's easy to build, with good performance.
TL;DR: A SNAP is defined by its catch system (of which a clothespin is only a part): a pin-style catch, engaging a 360-degree catchface. Ease of building is the other important factor.
Edited by Carbon, 02 January 2011 - 10:00 PM.
#116
Posted 02 January 2011 - 10:23 PM
There's no reason zip ties and hot glue shouldn't work. JB-WELD is great stuff, but is entirely overkill for this application. Besides, I like my SNAP triggers to be removable. They invariably get futsy after awhile.
I didn't use any glue, but after trying just zip ties I found that the clothespin on my snap would slide around and then the pin wouldn't seat properly. I ended up putting a short sheet metal screw through the clothespin into the pressure tube to keep it stable and that helped quite a bit.
You can poop in my toilet anytime champ.
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#117
Posted 03 January 2011 - 07:10 PM
#118
Posted 03 January 2011 - 07:14 PM
But what then about taer's SNAP? Do you think this would then be "SNAP-like" but not a SNAP in itself?
Yup. Taer says that himself:
"Lastly, it doesn't use the SNAP line's trigger or plunger assembly, but it's still a Snap in spirit, especially given the Snap-4bp, above."
Honestly, I don't have a problem with someone naming a blaster a SNAP if it follows the spirit of it. The very "open source" idea of the SNAP means that different people are going to have different interpretations of the design. What I was talking about before was inclusion in this thread, where we're talking about what has commonly come to be accepted as a SNAP. Anyway, there are always exceptions to every rule....especially seeing as how Taer's is a variant on the form factor of the 4.
Edited by Carbon, 03 January 2011 - 07:22 PM.
#120
Posted 14 January 2011 - 07:11 PM
#121
Posted 14 January 2011 - 07:20 PM
#122
Posted 14 January 2011 - 08:12 PM
Edited by Carbon, 14 January 2011 - 08:24 PM.
#123
Posted 15 January 2011 - 03:03 PM
#124
Posted 15 January 2011 - 03:18 PM
#125
Posted 15 January 2011 - 04:58 PM
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