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Community Snap Thread

An open source project

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#126 Carbon

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Posted 15 January 2011 - 07:53 PM

Dropping a [k26] into a Mk1 won't really work, anyway. The Mk1 uses the edge of the rear endcap as the catchface, with no reinforcement: a stronger spring will just shred it. Like Beaver says, if you want to use a [k26], just build a SNAPbow Mk5. Rork's improvements made it far more durable.

Edited by Carbon, 15 January 2011 - 07:54 PM.

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Hello. I am Indigo of the Rainbow Clan. You Nerfed my father. Prepare to die.

#127 Collective

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Posted 18 January 2011 - 07:31 PM

I'm in the measurement and cutting phase of my build right now and I'd like an opinion on something. When a SNAP (or any home made in general) fires, is it ideal for the plunger to be stopped by the plunger head hitting the front bushing? Or should it be stopped by the rear handle/pump action linkages hitting the rear endcap or whatever's back there? I'm assuming it's the former, but I just wanted to check. Is it possible to stop the plunger without hitting anything at all, just having it come to a stop on its own?

Thanks.

Edited by Collective, 18 January 2011 - 07:31 PM.

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#128 utahnerf

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Posted 18 January 2011 - 07:59 PM

It's totally fine on a Snap for the plunger head to hit the bushing, because if built correctly, the bushing will never be damaged by the force of the plunger. The bushing could only be damaged if the blaster is dryfired. I have accidentally dryfired my Snap hundreds of times, and it isn't showing any wear yet.

Edited by utahnerf, 18 January 2011 - 08:00 PM.

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#129 Y-Brik

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Posted 18 January 2011 - 08:11 PM

Just make sure you mount the bushing well- either with screws or PVC cement. That said, SNAPS are built like tanks and either way works (Mine is stopped by the rear- with a rubber washer between endcap and priming handle)
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As I said I have not not alot of testes yet but I will be once I finish the mod.

Why I am boycotting Hasbro

#130 Darksircam

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Posted 18 January 2011 - 09:45 PM

If you use a rubber washer or some other large rubber piece that hits the bushing, no need to worry. It cushions the impact enough.
If you're using o-rings, yeah. Preferably find something to protect that bushing, if nothing more than just to silence your blaster a bit.
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#131 TantumBull

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Posted 18 January 2011 - 11:17 PM

I dry fire my snaps all the time. And they hit the front bushing which is cushioned with a good half inch of gasket foam. No problems whatsoever.
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#132 The lord of fish

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Posted 19 January 2011 - 08:07 PM

I hate to say it tantum, but I tried making a SNAP (or snap bow?) using your version of a plungerhead/catch face, and the damn thing would not catch. I filed the nail a little smoother, which made it catch more often, but when it did the trigger pull was a bitch and a half. I then swapped in Rorks, which worked flawlessly, but since my e-putty sucked and I didn't mix it well enough, the ramp cracked.

Snaps are great, but the catch face really needs to be easier to make. I'll hunt for random funnel shaped pieces later.
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#133 Y-Brik

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Posted 19 January 2011 - 10:06 PM

Use a 1.25" endcap, lop off the connecting part (you only need the back), drill a hole in the middle to accommodate the plunger rod/endcap, and sand the hell out of it until you have a nice smooth catchface. It's a superlative with the durability of a preeminent. I feel like I said this before....

EDIT: I misspoke, I meant catchRAMP. My Snap uses a PVC catchramp attached to a metal washer for the catchface. Basically take the Superlative and replace epoxy putty with PVC.

Edited by Y-Brik, 20 January 2011 - 04:15 PM.

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As I said I have not not alot of testes yet but I will be once I finish the mod.

Why I am boycotting Hasbro

#134 utahnerf

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Posted 20 January 2011 - 03:51 PM

I find epoxy putty, when mixed well, is far more durable than a pvc catchface.
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#135 qwertyupp

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Posted 20 January 2011 - 05:05 PM

Not sure if this detracts form the current conversation, but has anyone noticed whether a well made snap catch, or an r3l catch is more durable?
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#136 ChaosPropel

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Posted 20 January 2011 - 05:32 PM

Not sure if this detracts form the current conversation, but has anyone noticed whether a well made snap catch, or an r3l catch is more durable?


I've made a semi-well-made SNAP, and 2 R3Ls. I haven't used the SNAP much, but I have used the R3L a lot (not at wars-just random shooting), with no signs of wear whatsoever.

I'm sorry that I can't add more to this, but I can reassure you that R3L catches, when made well, are extremely durable.
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#137 TxNerfer

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Posted 20 January 2011 - 05:37 PM

Not sure if this detracts form the current conversation, but has anyone noticed whether a well made snap catch, or an r3l catch is more durable?


I'd say that they're both about equal. If nothing else, the R3L catch is weaker. I have never had a Snap misfire or anything. They are incredibly strong catches.
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#138 Y-Brik

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Posted 20 January 2011 - 05:44 PM

The clothespin is deceptive- a well made Snap will not misfire. As far as I can tell, both catches are as strong as they would need to be. So, no real difference.
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As I said I have not not alot of testes yet but I will be once I finish the mod.

Why I am boycotting Hasbro

#139 The lord of fish

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Posted 21 January 2011 - 12:36 AM

My R3l catch seems pretty durable, but its a trivial matter to replace the catch ring with another bit of 3/4" pvc.
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Do you think she'll sleep with a panic switch?

#140 Daniel Beaver

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Posted 21 January 2011 - 08:28 AM

but I have used the R3L a lot (not at wars-just random shooting), with no signs of wear whatsoever.

I'm sorry that I can't add more to this, but I can reassure you that R3L catches, when made well, are extremely durable.


You need to use it in a war environment before you can make a declarative statement about it's durability. I'm sure R3L catches will prove durable, but we really need to wait a few months to see how they fare in the spring wars.
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#141 TantumBull

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Posted 22 January 2011 - 05:03 PM

I hate to say it tantum, but I tried making a SNAP (or snap bow?) using your version of a plungerhead/catch face, and the damn thing would not catch. I filed the nail a little smoother, which made it catch more often, but when it did the trigger pull was a bitch and a half. I then swapped in Rorks, which worked flawlessly, but since my e-putty sucked and I didn't mix it well enough, the ramp cracked.

Snaps are great, but the catch face really needs to be easier to make. I'll hunt for random funnel shaped pieces later.

Make sure to cut a slant in the nail (angled side facing the catch, of course) and to shave a bigger angle into the end cap.
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#142 Darksircam

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Posted 22 January 2011 - 08:16 PM

I have been successful with both the endcap method and the e-putty method. The endcap method may require a bit more precision though.

Since the ramp is more abrupt with the PVC "unmodded", you might need to either file down the endcap to make a ramp, or really get your nail the right length. 1/8" of nail inside the plunger tube is a good length, sturdy but still with a short trigger pull.

I rounded the tip of the nail and spent about 15 minutes filing down the endcap for a good ramp. A slanted nail wears down the catchface a bit more, and with a little more work on the endcap you can get easy priming AND higher durability.

Though the trigger pull shouldn't be much different since both setups use the same catchface, just a different ramp material.
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Travel Cost to TRU = $2. Eliminator pack = $15. Momentum testing = 2 lost darts. Outranging Recons with your mini pistol = priceless.

#143 lordnikon60

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 03:30 AM

I am in the process of making of what i guess would be the standard SNAP. I need some tips on how to keep it together. I am using non-threaded PVC(its all I had). but i don't want to glue it because I would like it to come apart if some thing breaks.

Sorry I am new to Homemade Nerf
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#144 Demon Lord

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 06:31 AM

E-tape and screws will be your friend. You only really need to glue/goop the front bushing/coupler in anyway, as you can just unscrew the back and pull out the mechanism behind the SNAP.
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QUOTE(VACC @ Mar 7 2011, 09:03 AM) View Post

Don't worry so much about what other people will allow. Throw your own wars and kick your friends' asses until they all want one.

#145 NimbleFellow

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 03:23 PM

I have a question. I built a SNAPbow MK V. today, and it's not catching with 3 NF springs in it. It catches with no springs though. Could this be a problem with my trigger, or the springs?
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#146 k9turrent

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 03:26 PM

Perhaps you didn't account for the compression length of the springs, move your trigger forward
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QUOTE View Post

That's about it. And thanks Angela who helped me with these pictures.. It looks huge in her hands.


HOLY CRAP!

FU ALL

#147 NimbleFellow

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 03:29 PM

Perhaps you didn't account for the compression length of the springs, move your trigger forward

The hole is at 3 1/4". How much should i move it up?

EDIT: Nevermind i moved it to 4" and it works like a charm.

Edited by NimbleFellow, 30 January 2011 - 03:46 PM.

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#148 Keska

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 06:33 PM

I made a modification to Tantumbull's preeminent plunger head to use it with a wire plunger rod, an I thought I would share it here.

Basically, before you wrap the cpvp cap in e-tape (I had to use the tape since I couldn't find the threaded coupler), go ahead and drill your hole.
Posted Image

You are going to put an eye bolt in it instead of a regular bolt. I used a 2" 10/24 eye bolt.
Posted Image

Go ahead and wrap it in e-tape, then thread your wire through the eye.
Posted Image

Seat that into the 3/4 PVC endcap, and go on as usual from there.

Posted Image
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#149 TantumBull

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 07:19 PM

That's a pretty neat idea and removes the need to mount a screw in there. The only thing I would be worried about is, because the spring is no longer centered on the plunger head, that it catches on the roofing nail when priming. Maybe a thinner eye bolt could be used so that a short segment of CPVC could still go in the coupler?
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#150 Keska

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 10:38 PM

That might be possible. However, I found that once I started pulling the wire taut, the spring automatically centered itself. I probably had to cut my nail a little shorter than you might with a traditional plunger rod, but it has caught and held securely every time.
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