I have a
restrictor resistor question: I thought that one would typically have wired three LEDs in a series with a resistor, then repreat five more times for your 18 LED array. You said you left the resistor out. Is that not dangerous? The resistors I thought were to keep the LEDs from overheating. I only bring this up because some kid might follow your mod, string a bunch of LEDs together and have an overheating issue. Can anybody answer this? It would be good to know.
Very nice mod by the way. I plan on doing it myself.
It's all a matter of voltage, and the resistor is only there to keep the LED from burning out. an LED will burn itself up WAY before it EVER becomes a heat danger to anything.
If you strung 18 LEDs together in series, it would barely light up at all, because the voltage draw would be so stupidly high (54v draw for 18 3v LEDs in series). If you wired 18 LEDs in parallel to a single 9v battery, they would all burn out because the battery would be feeding each one 9v and they're only designed to handle 3v each.
I do not have an 18-LED array, I have 6 3-LED arrays connected in parallel to one 9v battery. There will never be an overheating issue with LEDs in any case, they're not incandescent bulbs and they don't put out much heat at all.
Even the 20-LED bulb I built to replace an incandescent bulb in a home lamp doesn't get too hot to touch and those are 1/4" diameter LEDs running off of converted 120v AC power.
In other words.
You did what I was going to do and since I love me... Great job.
that is SOOOOOO added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my butthole...
On topic: I love how this thing looks... but I wish you'd kept the neon orange parts orange just because they would glow so insanely vibrantly with the blue leds in there.... this almost makes me want a clear mav... but then i remember I have absolutely no use for a mav...
anyways... Excellent job.
Yeah, FA is always good for a sig now and again.
Thanks, but sadly what you think it would look like is not how it would turn out in real life. Since the light is all from the back and the paint is complete opaque, the orange would look black, not glowing orange, especially since there's no orange light incoming to reflect, if you shine one of these blue LEDs on the orange paint in otherwise darkness, it looks black. I could probably rig up an orange glow-y one though, which might have the effect you were looking for.
I generally have no use for a maverick at all, but I'm an LED whore and I will put them in anything and everything I possibly can. Car, Consoles, computer, lamps, etc.
You do need a resistor, but because of overheating, but because the LED will burn out if too much current flows through it. I have no idea how he wired it. That's what I've been trying to figure out. He said he wired three LEDs together in series so the 9v battery would split evenly into 3v each, but he has 18 LEDs and definitely not six batteries. It would be fantastic if he would just answer the question.
Motherfucker have a little patience, I'm recovering from surgery and haven't looked at this thread in a little while.
Ok, lets clear something up, the ONLY reason you need a resistor in an LED light is to take the input voltage down to match the voltage of the LED.
For example, I put a bunch of LEDs in an XBox, that's a 12v input voltage, and I'm using 3v LEDs.
That means I need to normalize the voltage to 3v somehow. I put a resistor on the positive leg of the LED that drops the voltage by 9v, thus putting 3v to the LED. This is a WASTE OF POWER. It's not an issue in the XBox because it's an AC powered unit, but in a battery situation, it's different.
What I could have done is put a 6v resistor on and then wired up all my LEDs in parallel. This would mean that the battery is pumping out 9v to the resistor, which is stealing 6v and dispersing it as heat, and only passing on 3v to the LEDs. This is a huge waste of power and would cause a significant drop in battery longevity.
I chose the other way of adjusting the power levels, series connection.
9v Battery+ - 6v Resistor - 3vLED - Battery- = 3v to LED.
9v Battery+ - 3vLED - 3vLED - 3vLED - Battery- = 3v to each LED
because the load is spread across 3 LEDs in series. Is this a little more clear?
I made up 6 sets of 3 LEDs, making in effect, 6 9v LEDs. That allows me to power a total of 18 LEDs using a single 9v battery and no resistors.
There is NO DANGER OF OVERHEATING in this configuration, it is a matter of simple math. The battery puts out 9v, the LEDs can handle 3v each. If they are overloaded, they burn out, they do NOT overheat and they are in NO DANGER OF MELTING.
If you do not understand the simple mathematics of voltage flow and series vs parallel connections, I suggest you do some research before you attempt any sort of electrical modifications on any of your guns.
In a nutshell, he has six 9-volt LEDs wired in parallel. The 9 volt LEDs just happen to be made up of three 3 volt LEDs
THANK YOU, finally someone who got it.
LED+LED+LED --------------- BATTERY
Is that easier to understand?
Also, wiring them in sequences of 3 let me run a lot less actual wires through the gun, which is a pain at the best of times but can get seriously annoying when you have to work around the mechanics of a nerf gun.
Very interesting. The first thing that came to my mind once I saw the picture of the LED's in there was how you could make that into a TRON gun. If you paint over the rest of the gun and mask off some clear parts to the design of the circuits on the characters bodies in tron, you could have have a sweet looking blaster.
Now THAT is a genius idea, I'll keep that in mind if I revisit this gun in the future.
Here's an extra picture for you people, someone over at NHQ requested the LED placement points, so here they are.
Edited by hereticorp, 10 December 2008 - 06:09 PM.