10 replies to this topic

[Fome]

First thing's first: mega props to Carbon, rork, and Tantumbull for laying some pretty sweet foundations in the SNAP build. Also, props to Split for making the first (to my knowledge at least) wire priming mech (+pistol) although TB was the first to do it in a SNAP. Also big thanks to Louiec3 for answering some questions I had with my initial build.

I'm not going to review the basics of SNAP building. If this is your first time building a SNAP, I'd suggest you consult one of rork's excellent writeups instead.
Here is the end product, which is essentially an optimized, ergonomic SNAP with a wire plunger mechanism:


It's constructed very similarly to rork's MK. V, but has some important differences and improvements.

In the main body:


The body is 2" longer than a normal snap allowing more room for the 1"-1/2" reducing bushing (instead of the 3/4" endcap) and the 3/4" CPVC coupler which holds on to the spring. It also allows more room for attachment points on your wooden handle. Overall, you get a better weighted, more comfortable blaster.

The trigger is also moved up to work with the new length and internals, and you'll also notice that a piece of basswood replaces the angle bracket on the trigger - way more comfortable, still very durable.

Here, you can see the screws that go directly from the wooden handle into the body of the blaster:


And another minor improvement, small rubber washers that effectively seal the front bushing:



Here is the main divergence from a typical snap, the wire priming mechanism:


The picture should be fairly easy to follow but lemme know if there's any confusion to the construction.
Instead of using a single length of wire that ends in a priming handle, my design attaches both ends of the wire to the plunger head, forming a loop which protrudes from the rear of the blaster. This loop is covered with a soft tube (i used 1/4" vinyl tubing) and then forms a very comfortable priming handle which does not whip around when firing. By keeping the length considerably longer than the priming stroke, there's virtually no danger of decapitated fingers. It's also much much lighter than a traditional plunger rod.

Here's a closer look at both ends of the priming mech:

Front:


Rear:


Here it is with an RSCB (clear dart tube, brass breech, 12in CPVC barrel):


Here's the gun primed:


Aside from the annoying habit of ejecting barrels (WIP), It also rocks cardboard's world:

(single BB darts, slingshot weights are way worse)

It's getting a mad paintjob soon, so check back soon. Hope you like it!

Edited by Fome, 14 July 2010 - 07:12 PM.

[TantumBull]

I love it. Like all of it. I'm a huge fan of Snap's, RSCB's, clear dart holders, and wire priming mechs. Excellent, and I love the handle. I also love how you eliminated the priming handle. Does it hurt to repeatedly prime with just the vinyl over the wire?

Edited by TantumBull, 14 July 2010 - 07:04 PM.

[Fome]

TantumBull, on Jul 14 2010, 05:02 PM, said:

I love it. Like all of it. I'm a huge fan of Snap's, RSCB's, clear dart holders, and wire priming mechs. Excellent, and I love the handle. I also love how you eliminated the priming handle. Does it hurt to repeatedly prime with just the vinyl over the wire?

Appreciate it man.
Nah, I generally use 2-3 fingers and the vinyl is plenty comfortable. There's more to grip than a CPVC T also. You could easily substitute another material if you found it wasn't comfortable enough.

I forgot, it also shoots arrows. Far:

[HOTH]

Woa, awesome. Love the plunger build. The wire setup is really interesting, glad it works.

[Zorns Lemma]

How do you prevent the wire from destroying things in it's path? Or is it not a problem?

I'm having difficulties figuring out what to do with my wire and if I can just leave it around like your are that'd be very time-saving.

[Fome]

Zorn's Lemma, on Jul 14 2010, 05:47 PM, said:

How do you prevent the wire from destroying things in it's path? Or is it not a problem?

I'm having difficulties figuring out what to do with my wire and if I can just leave it around like your are that'd be very time-saving.

My wire got kinda fucked up because I didn't tighten the brackets enough the first time and one end ripped out, giving it a bit of a curve. When I replace it, I'll show you what it looks like when primed. Because of the added rigidity of an additional length of wire, it just kinda sticks out the back, drooping slightly downwards. When firing, it simply returns. Even when it was resting on my hand, I barely noticed it.

I dunno, if you have some extra wire, experiment with making a loop instead of a single length.

Or, you could make a housing with a split in it. A simple metal rod, attached to an extension spring could prime the plunger and then return. You wouldn't even see the wire.

[rork]

That's one of the slickest builds I've ever seen. well done.

[Fome]

Thanks rork.

I'm going to update this thread as I work on an alternate, even safer priming mech that still uses the advantages of the wire.

I replaced the back bushing with a 1"-3/4" bushing. The 3/4" PVC will form the housing of the wire and the priming mech (a simple metal rod that returns to the bushing, once primed). The housing will also be the base of the stock.



Also, I made another SNAP. This one doesn't have the wire priming mechanism, but still has the elongated body to accommodate a sturdier, simpler handle. It's nice because it allows you to really control the compression of the spring by putting different lengths of 3/4" CPVC against the back bushing.


This one is getting a paintjob soon, as well as some foam on the handle and foregrip.

These are kinda shitty pictures, sorry, but it's late.

[Carbon]

Your last build looks incredible. I feel like a proud grandparent.

[soccerbeast003]

Ha, do you have huge hands or something? It looks like it would be hard to reach the trigger.

[Fome]

soccerbeast003, on Jul 17 2010, 02:13 PM, said:

Ha, do you have huge hands or something? It looks like it would be hard to reach the trigger.

Yeah, I have pretty mantastic hands. The trigger reach is a little long, but if you sink your hand down it feels pretty natural. You learn new methods every time you make a new one. My 3rd handle is probably the most comfortable I've made yet.

I used a 1"-3/4" reducing bushing to connect a piece of 3/4" PVC directly to the main body. The 3/4" PVC has a slit drilled in it large enough to pass a large bolt. The bolt goes before the wire loop and is connected to a piece of 1.25" PVC. The gun is now primed like a firefly instead of a nitefinder. The 3/4" PVC acts as both a shroud for the wire and a stock.

Next, I'll be attaching a short, raider-like wooden stock to the 3/4" PVC endcap and then hopefully finishing the trigger guard and then painting soon!





Comments are more than appreciated!