#1
Posted 01 January 2010 - 03:14 PM
^a few changes: there is now an end cap with a hole on the end of the CPVC that is closest in the picture that hold a spring to return the valve back to it's starting position, the valve is also situated in the shell such that when the trigger is pulled it pushes the valve back.
Here's an overview of the valve system before and after firing:
AT2K Pump
Super soaker Tank
Tee
Steel
Neoprene
And black = CPVC and tubing
the squiggily thing is a spring
Grey is the pressurized space
More detail on the valve, names of the parts are given:
(^It says rubber but it's a neoprene washer)
Just a few notes:
-Tightening the nuts gets the neoprene washers to seal
-Make sure that the CPVC you're using is smooth on the inside (better seal)
-The holes going to the tubing should be pretty small, cross line leakage is bad
-This should be lubed with silicone grease (not spray stuff, if you can)
-The spring should be pretty strong and thusly expect the trigger pull to be tough
-One could just as easily use a bicycle pump, a solid PVC tank or a magstrike bladder, this version doesn't get to high pressures
-This same sort of setup could be altered for a system like cheesy's:
http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=18411
-Venom used the same parts on his attempt at a back pressure trigger:
http://nerfhaven.com...topic=15372&hl=
Rainbow Clan
#3
Posted 01 January 2010 - 03:37 PM
I haven't had any issues with it yet, you could probably modify a hornet trigger like cheesy did.How finnicky is the trigger though? Is it pretty reliable, and also would a normal hornet one work?
Rainbow Clan
#4
Posted 01 January 2010 - 06:03 PM
#5
Posted 03 January 2010 - 03:50 PM
I do have one question, though. I know you mentioned that the trigger pull would be hard, but even without the spring in mine, there's quite a bit of friction. Then again I haven't lubed it yet... Anyway, on that DTB, with the improved seal on from the salvo tank plus the friction from the valve, is the trigger pull uncomfortably hard?
Edited by TantumBull, 03 January 2010 - 06:03 PM.
#6
Posted 03 January 2010 - 07:26 PM
#7
Posted 05 January 2010 - 09:20 PM
Either my rubber washers are slightly too big or my CPVC is slightly too small. The friction (even with lube) from the moving bits is way too much for the trigger pull. Sometimes the rubber washers will even pull off of the washer sandwich. The spring (a fairly hefty one) doesn't even budge it at full compression.
I've tried taking off rubber washers, loosening the nuts, tightening the nuts, sanding/filing out the insides of the pvc, adding a beefier spring, etc.
Any ideas?
#8
Posted 05 January 2010 - 09:39 PM
If it is dry assembly, then take a 1/2" bit to your CPVC to get it to be actually 1/2" and not .49x" ID.
If it is during wet operation, then most likely your spacing is incorrect so there is a pressure difference in your trigger system adding $bignum lbs of force to it.
Kruger and Dunning (1999)
#9
Posted 05 January 2010 - 10:25 PM
Unfortunately I don't have access to a lot of my tools right now so drilling the CPVC will have to wait.
I did, however, play around with some other sizes of tubing and the piston fits perfectly inside 9/16" brass. Very little friction yet airtight seal. So yeah, my rubber washers are just way too big. Odd because they said 1/2" OD at the hardware store.
#10
Posted 05 January 2010 - 10:54 PM
Yes, though the large trigger on the dtb helps it's still uncomfortable.I do have one question, though. I know you mentioned that the trigger pull would be hard, but even without the spring in mine, there's quite a bit of friction. Then again I haven't lubed it yet... Anyway, on that DTB, with the improved seal on from the salvo tank plus the friction from the valve, is the trigger pull uncomfortably hard?
Fome; I'm sure that using brass instead of cpvc would work. Though I would worry about the holes in the brass going to the air tank chewing up the rubber if they aren't sanded well on the inside.
Rainbow Clan
#11
Posted 06 January 2010 - 01:53 AM
Fome; I'm sure that using brass instead of cpvc would work. Though I would worry about the holes in the brass going to the air tank chewing up the rubber if they aren't sanded well on the inside.
My concern too. I'm also unsure about how I'm going to attach the airline tubing. Right now I have some 1/2" PVC e-taped/gooped over the brass piece that I'm going to use. My idea is that by drilling through both to make the holes there should be enough "depth" for the airline tubing to take hold without actually going into the brass.
We'll see.
Thanks for putting this up, atomatron.
#12
Posted 06 January 2010 - 09:54 AM
What is the yellow part?
Why does the loss of the air can also be launched?
#13
Posted 06 January 2010 - 11:52 AM
#14
Posted 09 January 2010 - 04:50 PM
I had to add some material to the trigger so that the valve could function smoothly, It's basically a brass plate epoxy puttied to the trigger:
The 'piston' out of the valve:
And the finishing touch:
Rainbow Clan
#15
Posted 15 January 2010 - 12:49 PM
#16
Posted 15 January 2010 - 02:18 PM
#17
Posted 15 January 2010 - 03:07 PM
Why do you use two O-rings? It seems like the one furthest from the tank could be eliminated, and the friction reduced, if you capped the PVC pipe.
Doing so would make all of the pressure from the bladder push on the trigger which would make the trigger extremely difficult to pull. By using two O-rings and keeping the back open, the pressure is cancelled out and therefore there is no air pushing directly on the trigger.
#18
Posted 15 January 2010 - 03:27 PM
I'll see what I can do.Looks good. Can you post a video of it in action?
What he said.Doing so would make all of the pressure from the bladder push on the trigger which would make the trigger extremely difficult to pull. By using two O-rings and keeping the back open, the pressure is cancelled out and therefore there is no air pushing directly on the trigger.Why do you use two O-rings? It seems like the one furthest from the tank could be eliminated, and the friction reduced, if you capped the PVC pipe.
Rainbow Clan
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