After seeing how much potential the 3k had, I figured I could do the same thing, but have twice as many barrels.
But with twice as many barrels, and a blaster that is twice as big, there is twice as much work.
Modifications
- Replace barrels
- Improve seal
- Increase airflow
- Replace pump
- Increase pump stroke
- Rear-loading
First thing to do, which is the most time consuming, is modding the turret.
I gutted the entire shell, but the you'll have to unscrew the screw on the end of the turret.
You'll also have to unscrew the two screws that hold the airtank in. Here's a picture.
Getting the turret apart is a bitch. Everything is solvent welded together. Unscrew the screw that holds to barrel spacer in the front of the turret.
Then it's time to pull out a pot and some water. Dip the turret in near boiling water to annihilate the solvent weld.
Then you'll have to pry the top piece of the turret off.
The stock barrels should fall off now, along with the air restrictors. If they don't, you can yank them out with a vise.
Sand down the ridges on the back of the turret.
Drill 9/16" holes through the back of turret to accept your PETG and make it rear-loading.
Clean it up with a hobby knife.
Now get out your PETG and electrical tape. Wrap the tape around the end of the barrel 1 1/2 times.
You can glue them in if you'd like, but I left mine with the option to remove them later if they break. Make a barrel spacer or two if you have the materials.
This step might be unnecessary, but I figure it couldn't hurt. I filled the little dimples between the barrels with hot glue. Load your barrels with darts and glue away.
Let it dry and clean it up with a hobby knife.
You also do it with epoxy putty, but I didn't have any on hand.
Now it's time to modify the airtank. The airtank is huge, slightly bigger than the 3k and almost twice as big as a 2k tank. Cut off the puny nub.
I also cut off the plastic piece that was used for the existing auto-rotation mechanism for a later step in the modification.
Now you'll need a 1 3/8" OD x 1/2" x 1/8" rubber washer, and metal washer of the same size. Essentially, a +bow washer.
You'll have to cut off the bottom portion of the rubber washer in order for it to fit in the shell. It should look like this.
Glue the trigger spring. This will help the air release faster and give you a much better trigger feel.
The 4k's trigger is made of thick, sturdy plastic, so you don't have to worry about it breaking.
Now it's time to put the turret and airtank back together. I added a new spring for the rotation mechanism, along with replacing the white cap that went on end of the rotation mech.
I replaced it with a random metal washer I found in my garage. Anything will work as long as it keeps to spring from moving out of place.
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End of Part One, Picture Limit - Do not reply
Edited by Ryan201821, 26 November 2009 - 03:40 AM.