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There have been 1000 items by TantumBull (Search limited from 03-January 97)
#179881 Tactical Nf Write-up
Posted by TantumBull on 27 September 2008 - 12:35 AM in Modifications
Tools needed:
-Screw Driver
-Hacksaw
Supplies needed:
-½” CPVC coupler OR Endcap
-about 7” of CPVC
-Adhesive of choice
-E-Tape
-Dremel OR Sandpaper
-Wire Cutters that can slice through plastic
-Pipe cutters
-Paint (optional)
-Beefy replacement spring
-NF
-Tactical Light
-Craft foam, neoprene, etc.
Start off by opening up the Nite Finder.
Take out the useless laser.
Remove the plunger assembly and keep everything on the left of the following picture, and throw away what’s to the right.
Take this piece…
And sand it down like so.
Now take your coupler and mark it directly in the middle.
Use the pipe cutter to slice it in half.
Glue it into the shaved restrictor.
On the back of this piece, the end that comes into contact with the plunger head, glue on one or two layer of craft foam. This will make your gun last longer and put less stress on the coupler+restrictor.
Glue the coupler assembly into the plunger tube.
Now let’s move to the plunger. Wrap E-Tape around the plunger head and put the o-ring back on. Now remove the head and put on your new spring; I used a spring from Ace. Lube the plunger tube with something that doesn’t degrade plastics. Don’t forget to replace the catch spring if you do replace the spring.
This next step is optional, I did it because I like reinforcing shit to make it last longer. I glued some nuts I had laying around, onto the screw holes on the plunger tube. This made the nubs the holes are located on more sturdy.
Another reinforcement I did is with some metal onto the place where the spring presses against the shell.
Okay, on to the light. Open up the tactical light and cut of those nubs off of the light.
Trim the case like so, to fit the shell of the tactical light.
Now you have to trim the case of the tactical light and get rid of unneeded space. This is a picture of how I did it and where I glued it onto the gun. Keep in mind the only reason to glue these shells together is so the battery pack has somewhere to go; it looks a lot cleaner this way as well.
Next paint your gun if you want to. I painted mine black, which I know is a color scheme everyone hates and thinks it shows no creativity, which I entirely agree with. I had two good reasons for doing this, though. (1) I suck at painting. (2) I was pressed on time to finish this and black was all I had on hand.
Now glue the light part into where the laser used to be.
Put everything into the case exactly how it is in the next picture.
Cut the barrels, and make a speed loader if you wish. You're done! On mine I also added some sights.
Question? Comments? Flames?
#179887 Tactical Nf Write-up
Posted by TantumBull on 27 September 2008 - 12:45 AM in Modifications
Echnalaid: You are completely correct, I would never use this myself, it was made for a friend. It would be pointless in a war. I did toy with the idea of putting the battery pack where the AA's went when the NF was stock, but the pack was too bulky.
Banshee: Yep, I know I'm terrible at painting. I also used some acrylic protective shit that actually greened some of the plastic and annihilated the black paint in some parts.
#179893 The Access Bow
Posted by TantumBull on 27 September 2008 - 01:01 AM in Modifications
#179894 Tactical Nf Write-up
Posted by TantumBull on 27 September 2008 - 01:07 AM in Modifications
I don't give a damn about the light, or the paintjob, but that coupler is just cute...
Umm, is that a compliment?
#179929 Tactical Nf Write-up
Posted by TantumBull on 27 September 2008 - 11:41 AM in Modifications
It's simple, it eliminates dead space, it keeps the overall look of the gun cleaner, it should eliminate the need to dremel the shell, and it lets you mod 2 guns with one coupler, so yes--definitely a compliment. ~Rork
PS: Nice work with the reinforcement, as well.
Ah, I see. Thanks, rork.
#179932 Tactical Nf Write-up
Posted by TantumBull on 27 September 2008 - 11:45 AM in Modifications
Good first mod it could be cleaner though for example the paint and hot glue the flip barrel intstead of etape.
Yes, I agree the paint does suck tremendously. I also agree that just E-Tape on the speed loader would be stupid. I didn't mention this in the write up, but I actually super glued them together; the tape is just for extra reinforcement.
#180024 Tactical Nf Write-up
Posted by TantumBull on 27 September 2008 - 09:03 PM in Modifications
Looks Great. Have you ever thought of putting some kind of removable plastic under the light to cover that hole.
It's funny you say that. Right after taking those picture I glued on a piece of acrylic. I used gorilla glue, which is so weak sauce that it basically is removable.
Renegademilitia15: I would if I still had it.
#180228 Mega Missile Pump Replacement
Posted by TantumBull on 28 September 2008 - 05:31 PM in Modifications
#180230 Chubbs
Posted by TantumBull on 28 September 2008 - 05:34 PM in Modifications
#180338 W@m X2
Posted by TantumBull on 28 September 2008 - 10:10 PM in Nerf Wars
#180340 Greatest Game That You Have Ever Played In Your Life
Posted by TantumBull on 28 September 2008 - 10:11 PM in Off Topic
#180368 Dart Tag Air Restrictor Removal
Posted by TantumBull on 29 September 2008 - 12:28 AM in Modifications
#180374 Dart Tag Air Restrictor Removal
Posted by TantumBull on 29 September 2008 - 12:47 AM in Modifications
Thanks, I could replace the barrel, but I just dont want to put $10+ of Brass into it and I pefer using mega darts so all I have are stock darts for it. And my new kittens destroyed all my 1/2" FBR
How do megas fit in the stock barrels?
#180538 Lancer
Posted by TantumBull on 29 September 2008 - 08:23 PM in Modifications
I am sorry for posting a little bit late but I had never run across the write up for the Lancer. I am sorry but this is the most incredible and detailed write up I have ever seen. It is also rather long! But anyway Angel, another great creation.
Don't worry, you're not late. This topic isn't even a month old.
#180554 Cosmetically, What Can I Change?
Posted by TantumBull on 29 September 2008 - 08:59 PM in Homemades
I also think that the curvyness adds to the attraction of the gun. Just some suggestions.
#180679 Cosmetically, What Can I Change?
Posted by TantumBull on 30 September 2008 - 05:50 PM in Homemades
#180729 Comming Soon: The Nerf Pen
Posted by TantumBull on 30 September 2008 - 10:13 PM in Modifications
I mean something unoticeable. sheesh.
I think this is a neat idea, and I totally understand how if you are interested in something, and have the money, you're gonna go for it. What I'm wondering is how it will conceal that it shoots nerf darts. Darts are much wider than most pens and would be hard to hide. Good luck anyhow.
#180857 Couplered Sharpshooter I, Updated!
Posted by TantumBull on 01 October 2008 - 07:19 PM in Modifications
Begin by removing all the screws, and remove the plunger assembly from the gun. Make a cut on the tube similar to the diagram below:
Take the stump of the previous barrel that wasn't cut of, and rap some e-tape around it.
Now take some CPVC and epoxy it over the barrel stub.
Your going to want your coupler to go on so that there is a space between where the PT and coupler would touch. The following diagram better explains what I mean:
This gap is needed because there are fittings in the shell that went around the stock barrel there, and are needed so that the PT doesn't get dislodged in the shell after each shot. You could put it all the way back to eliminate dead space, cut those fittings on the shell, and epoxy the PT in, but then it won't be removable.
Now cut your CPVC so when the coupler is on that gap will exist. Then epoxy on the coupler.
Now you are going to need to shave that fitting on the shell I described earlier to fit the exposed CPVC. You will notice the front of the shell has been removed, this is explained later.
if it still won't fit in the shell (mine didn't) then shave the back of the coupler and the exposed CPVC like so:
Okay, onto the wimpy plunger head. It seems that the main reason the plunger head sucks so hard is because of how easy it is for it to bend and for air to get around. I fixed this by gluing a tiny sliver of FBR in there. I had to cut the FBR into 1/4's for it to fit. Also, replace the spring if you'd like.
The next bit is optional, but I did it so I could use a speedloader. Cut the front of the shell like so:
Now put everything in and close it up. The stock catch spring is incredibly strong, and is a bitch to keep from popping the catch out of place when closing the shell, just be patient. Once it's closed up, hot glue around the coupler to help reduce the amount of stress put onto the shell, this is very important if you replaced the spring or plan on banding it. Here's some pics:
Barrel off:
Barrel on and primed:
Hope you guys enjoyed this write up. Question, comments, and flames are all welcome.
Scroll down for updates.
#180863 Couplered Sharpshooter I, Updated!
Posted by TantumBull on 01 October 2008 - 07:28 PM in Modifications
I haven't tested with a tape measure yet, but they appear to get similar ranges to a CPVC'd, spring replaced NF. Please note this is a guessed based on solely how much the dart drops before it hits the basement wall, so probably is wrong.Ranges? I get about 45 ft with mine.
#180866 Couplered Sharpshooter I, Updated!
Posted by TantumBull on 01 October 2008 - 07:36 PM in Modifications
Edit: I'll probably get ranges posted within the next week, because I'm going to get some bands or bungees before I test.
#180877 Couplered Sharpshooter I, Updated!
Posted by TantumBull on 01 October 2008 - 08:11 PM in Modifications
God, I wish ranges were a mandatory part of a "range-increasing" mod... I'm getting sick and tired of asking for ranges.... Nice mod though!
I will get them up soon. Do you suggest banding it or bungeeing it?
#180886 Favorite Pistol/secondary?
Posted by TantumBull on 01 October 2008 - 08:23 PM in Modifications
#180940 Favorite Pistol/secondary?
Posted by TantumBull on 01 October 2008 - 09:46 PM in Modifications
Are you the guy who sells all those holsters on ebay?
#180960 Bbb Mod
Posted by TantumBull on 01 October 2008 - 10:58 PM in Modifications
#180973 Singled Maverick Link?
Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 12:26 AM in Modifications
#180976 Singled Maverick Link?
Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 12:44 AM in Modifications
The only reason you should EVER single a maverick is if your using the turret for something else or if the turret broke. Otherwise it completely defeats the purpose of the maverick, and makes it even more useless than before. It's excessively small plunger tube is not worth singling. You're giving up a high ROF and shit ranges for a terrible ROF and still shit ranges. There's no point.
Actually, there is a point. Maybe, just maybe, he wants to have fun with his friends and have a 'cool' looking gun. NERF modding isn't all about having the best gun possible, and what's practical in an organized NERF war. Sometimes, you want to have fun and don't need the best gun.
Oh, I definitely agree with you that modding is about fun, not only performance. However, I do not really see the point in taking a perfectly good gun, that cost money, and ruining it. There are far cheaper ways to have fun. I also don't think singled mavericks, short of that kick ass one that popped up on ebay a while back, are cool. In my opinion making an effective mod IS fun, having a better gun then your friends IS fun. It also isn't a waste of money. It's really just a difference of opinion. I just think people should think twice before they make a gun ineffective, all for "fun."
#180980 Bbb Or Vulcan?
Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 01:10 AM in General Nerf
#181046 W@m X2
Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 05:08 PM in Nerf Wars
#181079 Ls Front Gun Improvement?
Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 07:26 PM in Modifications
#181090 Dremel
Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 07:53 PM in General Nerf
Now, obviously, I'm looking to return this one and get a new one, one actually made by DREMEL. I wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what to get for a good price. I'm looking to buy a corded one, and one that has a highest speed of at least 25,000 RPM. I looked on the DREMEL website, and the 300 series looks like a pretty good fit for me. Resellers have extremely varied pricing. I'm just wondering where you guys bought yours for good deals.
Oh, if this should be in off topic, my bad. I just thought it should probably go here since it does pertain to nerf. Thanks in advance for all your help.
#181100 Dremel
Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 08:20 PM in General Nerf
Right now I have a "Chicago Tools" rotary tool, and it sucks balls. It needs constant charging, and slows down after about 5 minutes. I already had this model replaced once because a piece broke off. Now it has fucking problems spinning! I bought it for 30 bucks at Fred Meyer, worst idea EVER.
Now, obviously, I'm looking to return this one and get a new one, one actually made by DREMEL. I wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what to get for a good price. I'm looking to buy a corded one, and one that has a highest speed of at least 25,000 RPM. I looked on the DREMEL website, and the 300 series looks like a pretty good fit for me. Resellers have extremely varied pricing. I'm just wondering where you guys bought yours for good deals.
Oh, if this should be in off topic, my bad. I just thought it should probably go here since it does pertain to nerf. Thanks in advance for all your help.
Get the $20 Blue dremel with a battery, Cuts metal mandrel saws and a quich changing mandrel (Another $20)
and a sanding set ($15) You should be set if you buy all that, I got them at walmart.
Thanks for the advise, but I far prefer a corded one. I have an outlet right next to where I mod, so I don't need a battery. I also am bad about overcharging batteries.
#181102 Dremel
Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 08:22 PM in General Nerf
I just got the a Dremel for my birthday last week. It says Dremel 300 series on the box, but I don't know if that's one out of many, or it's THE 300. It is corded, and works very well for me. This is my first Dremel, but I don't think I'll need another one. I really don't see a need for cordless for me, I'm always sitting when I work on my blasters. Mine also came with quite a few little tips, all in a convenience little tackle box type thing. It's great! It also has a 5 year warranty, so I'm confident it was a good buy.
Oh, it was about $50 I think. I got it from Home Depot. I also got a 120 piece kit for about $20 for back up tips, which I am already burning into...
Alright, thanks a ton Coop. I'll consider buying one at Home Depot.
Just Some Bob: Alright, thanks. I appreciate it.
#181107 Dremel
Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 08:41 PM in General Nerf
#181109 Official "show Off Your Longshot" Thread
Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 08:57 PM in Modifications
Please remember not to drool on your keyboards.
BTW fuck Xbows.
I'm assuming that beast is brassed. If so, did you make tightening ring?
#181110 Dremel
Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 08:58 PM in General Nerf
Get the 400 XPR series. Its amazing. 32,000 RPM, I've had mine for a year, still has all the torque it had when I bought it. (Its wired.)
It cost about $70-80 when I bought it, not sure what it costs now.
I looked into the 400 series, but they are out of my price range.
#181114 Official "show Off Your Longshot" Thread
Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 09:20 PM in Modifications
#181116 Bbb Mod
Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 09:22 PM in Modifications
#181122 Dremel
Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 09:52 PM in General Nerf
Black & Decker makes a completely ecceptable 10,000-30,000 RPM model that goes for $25.
Is it acceptable from personal experience?
#181123 Official "show Off Your Longshot" Thread
Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 09:54 PM in Modifications
What's mounted on the bottom?
#181144 Whats Wrong With My Nitefinder
Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 10:35 PM in Modifications
Is it just me, or does that look like the spring that goes under the rail lock? I'd have to agree with the other two who I realize just beat me to it.
You are correct, that's the N-Strike tactical rail spring.
pepperach: I think you misread a mod write up. I remember reading that someone said he got good results by ADDING the rail spring to the stock catch spring, NOT by replacing.
The problem is that the spring isn't even long enough, that's why you don't here the click, its not even pushing down on the plunger rod. It's impossible for the catch to engage with that spring in it.
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