Jump to content


TantumBull's Content

There have been 1000 items by TantumBull (Search limited from 03-January 97)


By content type

See this member's


Sort by                Order  

#179881 Tactical Nf Write-up

Posted by TantumBull on 27 September 2008 - 12:35 AM in Modifications

Alright, 1st post! Thank you so much, admins, for validating me. Without further ado behold my first contribution to the NIC: the Tactical Nite Finder. (Keep in mind that I’m fully aware that there are very few situations where this light integration would prove useful in a war. I made it for my friend’s birthday because he is completely obsessed with zombies, so I tried to make the gun appeal to his liking.) Sorry about the double spacing. I have no idea why its doing that.


Tools needed:

-Screw Driver

-Hacksaw



Supplies needed:

-½” CPVC coupler OR Endcap

-about 7” of CPVC

-Adhesive of choice

-E-Tape

-Dremel OR Sandpaper

-Wire Cutters that can slice through plastic

-Pipe cutters

-Paint (optional)

-Beefy replacement spring

-NF

-Tactical Light

-Craft foam, neoprene, etc.



Start off by opening up the Nite Finder.

Posted Image



Take out the useless laser.

Posted Image



Remove the plunger assembly and keep everything on the left of the following picture, and throw away what’s to the right.

Posted Image



Take this piece…

Posted Image



And sand it down like so.

Posted Image



Now take your coupler and mark it directly in the middle.

Posted Image



Use the pipe cutter to slice it in half.

Posted Image



Glue it into the shaved restrictor.

Posted Image



On the back of this piece, the end that comes into contact with the plunger head, glue on one or two layer of craft foam. This will make your gun last longer and put less stress on the coupler+restrictor.

Posted Image



Glue the coupler assembly into the plunger tube.

Posted Image



Now let’s move to the plunger. Wrap E-Tape around the plunger head and put the o-ring back on. Now remove the head and put on your new spring; I used a spring from Ace. Lube the plunger tube with something that doesn’t degrade plastics. Don’t forget to replace the catch spring if you do replace the spring.

Posted Image



This next step is optional, I did it because I like reinforcing shit to make it last longer. I glued some nuts I had laying around, onto the screw holes on the plunger tube. This made the nubs the holes are located on more sturdy.

Posted Image



Another reinforcement I did is with some metal onto the place where the spring presses against the shell.

Posted Image

Posted Image



Okay, on to the light. Open up the tactical light and cut of those nubs off of the light.

Posted Image



Trim the case like so, to fit the shell of the tactical light.

Posted Image



Now you have to trim the case of the tactical light and get rid of unneeded space. This is a picture of how I did it and where I glued it onto the gun. Keep in mind the only reason to glue these shells together is so the battery pack has somewhere to go; it looks a lot cleaner this way as well.

Posted Image

Posted Image



Next paint your gun if you want to. I painted mine black, which I know is a color scheme everyone hates and thinks it shows no creativity, which I entirely agree with. I had two good reasons for doing this, though. (1) I suck at painting. (2) I was pressed on time to finish this and black was all I had on hand.



Now glue the light part into where the laser used to be.

Posted Image



Put everything into the case exactly how it is in the next picture.

Posted Image



Cut the barrels, and make a speed loader if you wish. You're done! On mine I also added some sights.

Posted Image

Posted Image




Question? Comments? Flames?



#179887 Tactical Nf Write-up

Posted by TantumBull on 27 September 2008 - 12:45 AM in Modifications

Coop: Yes you're right it is very uncomfortable, if you plan on doing this I recommend making the light farther forward. On one of the pictures you can see a piece of craft foam I glued on so it doesn't dig into my finger.

Echnalaid: You are completely correct, I would never use this myself, it was made for a friend. It would be pointless in a war. I did toy with the idea of putting the battery pack where the AA's went when the NF was stock, but the pack was too bulky.

Banshee: Yep, I know I'm terrible at painting. I also used some acrylic protective shit that actually greened some of the plastic and annihilated the black paint in some parts.



#179893 The Access Bow

Posted by TantumBull on 27 September 2008 - 01:01 AM in Modifications

Did you have any problems with there being a bump between the two plunger tubes? I thought about giving this mod a shot a while back, but thought that the fact the plunger has to make the jump between the two PT's might impede power or pop off the second PT.



#179894 Tactical Nf Write-up

Posted by TantumBull on 27 September 2008 - 01:07 AM in Modifications

I don't give a damn about the light, or the paintjob, but that coupler is just cute...


Umm, is that a compliment?



#179929 Tactical Nf Write-up

Posted by TantumBull on 27 September 2008 - 11:41 AM in Modifications

It's simple, it eliminates dead space, it keeps the overall look of the gun cleaner, it should eliminate the need to dremel the shell, and it lets you mod 2 guns with one coupler, so yes--definitely a compliment. ~Rork

PS: Nice work with the reinforcement, as well.


Ah, I see. Thanks, rork. :lol:



#179932 Tactical Nf Write-up

Posted by TantumBull on 27 September 2008 - 11:45 AM in Modifications

Good first mod it could be cleaner though for example the paint and hot glue the flip barrel intstead of etape.


Yes, I agree the paint does suck tremendously. I also agree that just E-Tape on the speed loader would be stupid. I didn't mention this in the write up, but I actually super glued them together; the tape is just for extra reinforcement.



#180024 Tactical Nf Write-up

Posted by TantumBull on 27 September 2008 - 09:03 PM in Modifications

Looks Great. Have you ever thought of putting some kind of removable plastic under the light to cover that hole.


It's funny you say that. Right after taking those picture I glued on a piece of acrylic. I used gorilla glue, which is so weak sauce that it basically is removable.

Renegademilitia15: I would if I still had it.



#180228 Mega Missile Pump Replacement

Posted by TantumBull on 28 September 2008 - 05:31 PM in Modifications

Nevermind.



#180230 Chubbs

Posted by TantumBull on 28 September 2008 - 05:34 PM in Modifications

Nevermind.



#180338 W@m X2

Posted by TantumBull on 28 September 2008 - 10:10 PM in Nerf Wars

I'm a maybe :( . I've PM'd Blacksunshine with my predicament. If I come I will probably bring a guest.



#180340 Greatest Game That You Have Ever Played In Your Life

Posted by TantumBull on 28 September 2008 - 10:11 PM in Off Topic

007: Nightfire for Gamecube, hands down.



#180368 Dart Tag Air Restrictor Removal

Posted by TantumBull on 29 September 2008 - 12:28 AM in Modifications

Good, clean write up. Even if you Nerf indoors I would reccomend doing barrel replacements, as that will practically eliminate dart drop in an indoor environment.



#180374 Dart Tag Air Restrictor Removal

Posted by TantumBull on 29 September 2008 - 12:47 AM in Modifications

Thanks, I could replace the barrel, but I just dont want to put $10+ of Brass into it and I pefer using mega darts so all I have are stock darts for it. And my new kittens destroyed all my 1/2" FBR


How do megas fit in the stock barrels?



#180538 Lancer

Posted by TantumBull on 29 September 2008 - 08:23 PM in Modifications

I am sorry for posting a little bit late but I had never run across the write up for the Lancer. I am sorry but this is the most incredible and detailed write up I have ever seen. It is also rather long! But anyway Angel, another great creation.


Don't worry, you're not late. This topic isn't even a month old. :D



#180554 Cosmetically, What Can I Change?

Posted by TantumBull on 29 September 2008 - 08:59 PM in Homemades

It looks to me like the handle is a little out of ratio to the rest of the gun. See here how the handle is much more compact in comparison:

Posted Image
I also think that the curvyness adds to the attraction of the gun. Just some suggestions.



#180679 Cosmetically, What Can I Change?

Posted by TantumBull on 30 September 2008 - 05:50 PM in Homemades

I'm really liking the Rev. 3. Excellent work. I can't wait to see this thing built and then make one for myself!



#180729 Comming Soon: The Nerf Pen

Posted by TantumBull on 30 September 2008 - 10:13 PM in Modifications

Posted Image


I mean something unoticeable. sheesh.


I think this is a neat idea, and I totally understand how if you are interested in something, and have the money, you're gonna go for it. What I'm wondering is how it will conceal that it shoots nerf darts. Darts are much wider than most pens and would be hard to hide. Good luck anyhow.



#180857 Couplered Sharpshooter I, Updated!

Posted by TantumBull on 01 October 2008 - 07:19 PM in Modifications

Couplered SSI:

Begin by removing all the screws, and remove the plunger assembly from the gun. Make a cut on the tube similar to the diagram below:
Posted Image
Take the stump of the previous barrel that wasn't cut of, and rap some e-tape around it.
Posted Image
Now take some CPVC and epoxy it over the barrel stub.
Posted Image
Your going to want your coupler to go on so that there is a space between where the PT and coupler would touch. The following diagram better explains what I mean:
Posted Image
This gap is needed because there are fittings in the shell that went around the stock barrel there, and are needed so that the PT doesn't get dislodged in the shell after each shot. You could put it all the way back to eliminate dead space, cut those fittings on the shell, and epoxy the PT in, but then it won't be removable.
Now cut your CPVC so when the coupler is on that gap will exist. Then epoxy on the coupler.
Posted Image
Now you are going to need to shave that fitting on the shell I described earlier to fit the exposed CPVC. You will notice the front of the shell has been removed, this is explained later.
Posted Image
if it still won't fit in the shell (mine didn't) then shave the back of the coupler and the exposed CPVC like so:
Posted Image
Okay, onto the wimpy plunger head. It seems that the main reason the plunger head sucks so hard is because of how easy it is for it to bend and for air to get around. I fixed this by gluing a tiny sliver of FBR in there. I had to cut the FBR into 1/4's for it to fit. Also, replace the spring if you'd like.
Posted Image
The next bit is optional, but I did it so I could use a speedloader. Cut the front of the shell like so:
Posted Image
Now put everything in and close it up. The stock catch spring is incredibly strong, and is a bitch to keep from popping the catch out of place when closing the shell, just be patient. Once it's closed up, hot glue around the coupler to help reduce the amount of stress put onto the shell, this is very important if you replaced the spring or plan on banding it. Here's some pics:
Barrel off:
Posted Image
Barrel on and primed:
Posted Image
Hope you guys enjoyed this write up. Question, comments, and flames are all welcome.

Scroll down for updates.



#180863 Couplered Sharpshooter I, Updated!

Posted by TantumBull on 01 October 2008 - 07:28 PM in Modifications

Ranges? I get about 45 ft with mine.

I haven't tested with a tape measure yet, but they appear to get similar ranges to a CPVC'd, spring replaced NF. Please note this is a guessed based on solely how much the dart drops before it hits the basement wall, so probably is wrong.



#180866 Couplered Sharpshooter I, Updated!

Posted by TantumBull on 01 October 2008 - 07:36 PM in Modifications

Ok, I just went outside and it definitely does not go as far as a spring replaced and CPVC'd NF. However I think banding/spring replacement will improve ranges signifigantly.

Edit: I'll probably get ranges posted within the next week, because I'm going to get some bands or bungees before I test.



#180877 Couplered Sharpshooter I, Updated!

Posted by TantumBull on 01 October 2008 - 08:11 PM in Modifications

God, I wish ranges were a mandatory part of a "range-increasing" mod... I'm getting sick and tired of asking for ranges.... Nice mod though!


I will get them up soon. Do you suggest banding it or bungeeing it?



#180886 Favorite Pistol/secondary?

Posted by TantumBull on 01 October 2008 - 08:23 PM in Modifications

Definitely my CPVC couplered, spring replaced NF.



#180940 Favorite Pistol/secondary?

Posted by TantumBull on 01 October 2008 - 09:46 PM in Modifications

Posted Image


Are you the guy who sells all those holsters on ebay?



#180960 Bbb Mod

Posted by TantumBull on 01 October 2008 - 10:58 PM in Modifications

I'm sure you would get much more positive responses with pictures. They really help explain your point. And if you don't have a camera, get good at paint, and use that instead.



#180973 Singled Maverick Link?

Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 12:26 AM in Modifications

The only reason you should EVER single a maverick is if your using the turret for something else or if the turret broke. Otherwise it completely defeats the purpose of the maverick, and makes it even more useless than before. It's excessively small plunger tube is not worth singling. You're giving up a high ROF and shit ranges for a terrible ROF and still shit ranges. There's no point.



#180976 Singled Maverick Link?

Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 12:44 AM in Modifications

The only reason you should EVER single a maverick is if your using the turret for something else or if the turret broke. Otherwise it completely defeats the purpose of the maverick, and makes it even more useless than before. It's excessively small plunger tube is not worth singling. You're giving up a high ROF and shit ranges for a terrible ROF and still shit ranges. There's no point.


Actually, there is a point. Maybe, just maybe, he wants to have fun with his friends and have a 'cool' looking gun. NERF modding isn't all about having the best gun possible, and what's practical in an organized NERF war. Sometimes, you want to have fun and don't need the best gun.


Oh, I definitely agree with you that modding is about fun, not only performance. However, I do not really see the point in taking a perfectly good gun, that cost money, and ruining it. There are far cheaper ways to have fun. I also don't think singled mavericks, short of that kick ass one that popped up on ebay a while back, are cool. In my opinion making an effective mod IS fun, having a better gun then your friends IS fun. It also isn't a waste of money. It's really just a difference of opinion. I just think people should think twice before they make a gun ineffective, all for "fun."



#180980 Bbb Or Vulcan?

Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 01:10 AM in General Nerf

You could clip mod the BBB like Angel's. Then you'd have good range and ROF.



#181046 W@m X2

Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 05:08 PM in Nerf Wars

Sadly, I will not be able to make it to this war, but look forward to coming to future wars. How often are WA state wars held?



#181079 Ls Front Gun Improvement?

Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 07:26 PM in Modifications

http://nerfhaven.com...topic=7232&st=0

In there it shows a brassed LSFG. Do that.



#181090 Dremel

Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 07:53 PM in General Nerf

Right now I have a "Chicago Tools" rotary tool, and it sucks balls. It needs constant charging, and slows down after about 5 minutes. I already had this model replaced once because a piece broke off. Now it has fucking problems spinning! I bought it for 30 bucks at Fred Meyer, worst idea EVER.
Now, obviously, I'm looking to return this one and get a new one, one actually made by DREMEL. I wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what to get for a good price. I'm looking to buy a corded one, and one that has a highest speed of at least 25,000 RPM. I looked on the DREMEL website, and the 300 series looks like a pretty good fit for me. Resellers have extremely varied pricing. I'm just wondering where you guys bought yours for good deals.
Oh, if this should be in off topic, my bad. I just thought it should probably go here since it does pertain to nerf. Thanks in advance for all your help.



#181100 Dremel

Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 08:20 PM in General Nerf

Right now I have a "Chicago Tools" rotary tool, and it sucks balls. It needs constant charging, and slows down after about 5 minutes. I already had this model replaced once because a piece broke off. Now it has fucking problems spinning! I bought it for 30 bucks at Fred Meyer, worst idea EVER.
Now, obviously, I'm looking to return this one and get a new one, one actually made by DREMEL. I wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what to get for a good price. I'm looking to buy a corded one, and one that has a highest speed of at least 25,000 RPM. I looked on the DREMEL website, and the 300 series looks like a pretty good fit for me. Resellers have extremely varied pricing. I'm just wondering where you guys bought yours for good deals.
Oh, if this should be in off topic, my bad. I just thought it should probably go here since it does pertain to nerf. Thanks in advance for all your help.


Get the $20 Blue dremel with a battery, Cuts metal mandrel saws and a quich changing mandrel (Another $20)
and a sanding set ($15) You should be set if you buy all that, I got them at walmart.


Thanks for the advise, but I far prefer a corded one. I have an outlet right next to where I mod, so I don't need a battery. I also am bad about overcharging batteries.



#181102 Dremel

Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 08:22 PM in General Nerf

I just got the a Dremel for my birthday last week. It says Dremel 300 series on the box, but I don't know if that's one out of many, or it's THE 300. It is corded, and works very well for me. This is my first Dremel, but I don't think I'll need another one. I really don't see a need for cordless for me, I'm always sitting when I work on my blasters. Mine also came with quite a few little tips, all in a convenience little tackle box type thing. It's great! It also has a 5 year warranty, so I'm confident it was a good buy.

Oh, it was about $50 I think. I got it from Home Depot. I also got a 120 piece kit for about $20 for back up tips, which I am already burning into...


Alright, thanks a ton Coop. I'll consider buying one at Home Depot.

Just Some Bob: Alright, thanks. I appreciate it.



#181107 Dremel

Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 08:41 PM in General Nerf

I already have decent enough pipe cutters.



#181109 Official "show Off Your Longshot" Thread

Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 08:57 PM in Modifications

Please remember not to drool on your keyboards.


Posted Image


BTW fuck Xbows.


I'm assuming that beast is brassed. If so, did you make tightening ring?



#181110 Dremel

Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 08:58 PM in General Nerf

Get the 400 XPR series. Its amazing. 32,000 RPM, I've had mine for a year, still has all the torque it had when I bought it. (Its wired.)

It cost about $70-80 when I bought it, not sure what it costs now.


I looked into the 400 series, but they are out of my price range.



#181114 Official "show Off Your Longshot" Thread

Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 09:20 PM in Modifications

Shit, Ice. You have HELLA longshots.



#181116 Bbb Mod

Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 09:22 PM in Modifications

Let's all just let this retarded thread die... :mellow:



#181122 Dremel

Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 09:52 PM in General Nerf

Black & Decker makes a completely ecceptable 10,000-30,000 RPM model that goes for $25.


Is it acceptable from personal experience?



#181123 Official "show Off Your Longshot" Thread

Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 09:54 PM in Modifications

Posted Image

What's mounted on the bottom?



#181144 Whats Wrong With My Nitefinder

Posted by TantumBull on 02 October 2008 - 10:35 PM in Modifications

Posted Image

Is it just me, or does that look like the spring that goes under the rail lock? I'd have to agree with the other two who I realize just beat me to it.


You are correct, that's the N-Strike tactical rail spring.

pepperach: I think you misread a mod write up. I remember reading that someone said he got good results by ADDING the rail spring to the stock catch spring, NOT by replacing.

The problem is that the spring isn't even long enough, that's why you don't here the click, its not even pushing down on the plunger rod. It's impossible for the catch to engage with that spring in it.