I'm fairly sure it could be done. In particular, I was thinking to integrate/mount it upside down under another blaster. You'd have to make a new pump grip (maybe it could slide along the tactical rail?) and then attach it to the upper "sled" that pulls back the plunger rods. If I remember correctly the upper sled is also what hits the slamfire, so if you're okay with permanent slamfire you wouldn't necessarily have to relocate the trigger in this configuration (use thisor DIY it).

 

Or, yeah, you could probably directly link the stock pump grip to the upper sled.

 

Anyway, I encourage you to try it and post the results!

Not sure if you mean specifically NIC as in homemade blasters, or just NIC as in modified blasters in general.

 

Anyway, http://britnerf.co.uk/may be your best bet. I think they tend more towards super stock though (modified elitre blasters, stuff shooting under 150FPS, etc).

Even some homemade replacement internals have trouble running a hopper, so no I don't think you'll get to that point.

 

You could just use a [k26] and leave out the original spring, but a [k26] will break the plunger rod and/or catch and/or shell around the catch unless you reinforce it.

 

Here is a very basic mod: http://nerfhaven.com/mods/rawray_xbow/I encourage you to search for and look up others.

 

As to the plunger head I'm not sure. Try lubing it. Try putting a few wraps of electrical tape on the end of the plunger rod to widen it and then stretching the seal over it. Last and probably worst option is putting teflon thread seal tape (which is not adhesive) around the seal. None of these will work as well as a complete replacement (plunger head and probably plunger rod), though.

I am new to modding but I have done quit a few stryfes and couple strongarms. Well I cracked open my first rapidstrike and followed a video on how to ramp it up. I went to pull out the jamb door switch and it was glued in and I destroyed it on accident. I figured oh well I can rewire it. Then thinking about it and looking at it I have new clue where the third wire goes. Anyone know how exactly to bypass the switch? Is the third wire just a redundant negative?

Usually the third wire on the jam door is used to connect both contacts of the motors to the same polarity (I guess it's negative? Can't remeber). This causes them to slow down much faster, in the event that some kid opens the jam door and shoves their hand into still-spinning flywheels.

I don't have a diagram handy of how to simply remove that switch, but here is a video with a full rewire guide.

I'm not sure what this actually entails, but at $30 for 2 hours it's more expensive than a movie.

 

And they spelled Pittsburgh wrong

I finally got myself an SM1k, and I'd love it if the auto-rotation didn't kill itself.

 

Looking around I've seen many posts alluding to the fragility of the SM1k auto-rotation mechanism, but I haven't found any pictures or descriptions of how it breaks. Can anyone provide info so that I can attempt to reinforce accordingly?

 

I'll include a picture to refresh everyone's memory:

 

I've labelled the three components A, B, and C for easy reference. Original picture by Blue.

 

I'm guessing that the likely failures are:

1. Either of the two arms of component "A" snap (shouldn't be hard to reinforce or even replace the whole thing).

2. Component B breaks somehow (either breaking off the tip that interfaces with the cylinder or breaking where it attaches to part "C").

3. "C" seems pretty sturdy, but again the all-plastic, pin-in-hole connection to part "B" could be an issue for either component.

 

Any prior experience with SM1ks that you can share is appreciated.

Maybe these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/231726371857

 

That's a link from February so not sure if these are still Banshees, or if they replaced with another motor.

I kind of feel like crayola barrels are so short you can just front load them, and use your pinky to shove the darts to the back of the barrel if needed (and you probably won't even have to do that  if using full length darts like elites). Why bother with rear loading?

 

For PETG, did you check with Draconis? http://nerfhaven.com...al/#entry359134

 

You could also use 9/16" brass tubing. It will be more expensive than PETG, but you may be able to find it at your local hobby shop. The wall thickness you want is 0.014inches

 

You don't need a fancy spacer. You can make one out of the original barrels (assuming you still have them/didn't destroy them): http://nerfhaven.com/mods/cxwq_at3000/

https://www.mcmaster...044t43/=17vfrnk

 

May also work.

 

Pros: It's a legit online store, so your parents may be happier buying from them

Cons: They only ship rush, and it's 4ft long so shipping will probably cost a good bit. Also they don't tell you how much shipping is until it shows up on your credit card.

You should probably do a little reading and searching, as there is an active thread right here where there is similar discussion going on.

Spoiler alert: It's probably the Mabuchi FK180SH-3240 motor

ok omron switches come from containmentcrew that's  where I've found them so yeah i think i found a god charger but I am looking for a li-po

You can also get them from regular electronics suppliers like http://www.mouser.co...COvLPkI1v1xNQ==for cheaper. Of course, you'd also have to compare shipping. Just an FYI.

 

You started asking for a LiPo charger. Are you now asking for LiPo pack suggestions too? For Hellcats in a stryfe?

 

Also, please do your best to use correct spelling and grammar (and capitalization).

I know this forum is more oriented towards NIC class Nerf

 

True but even some of the older members have participated in HvZ and such, so no reason to assume there's no crossover.  It's NerfHaven, after all, not NIC-haven. 

 

Based on Aeromech's youtube channel I think he has a booth with some (spinger) homemades.

 

I was really tempted to go since it's just close enough I could possibly manage to drive round trip Saturday. Too much work to do on the house and lack of forethought, though, unfortunately. I lack Meaker and Slug's skills for responsible nerfing, I suppose. Then again I didn't even know about it until there was that drama on reddit.

 

Hope you and everyone else enjoy.

Hey, whoever lives in Upper Black Eddy, PA and ordered some FBR...I have it. PM me.

PS: Everyone else ignore this, because I'm sure the seller just made an honest mistake

Check out http://nerfhaven.com...ce-appreciated/for some info on making a breech

The speed at which the valve is opened is also important.

I'm think that's a pretty straightforward "faster is better" though.

I also had a question for you guys. do you put holes in the end of the slug? And is half inch diameter foam backer rod right?

I burn a small hole in the foam backer rod (FBR) before adding hot glue; it gives more surface area for the glue to adhere to, and seems to increase my dart's durability a bit.

Your problem may be hot glue spilling out the side of your dart...if the edge of the washer, or side of the foam, have any hot glue on them you'll have a ton of friction between the dart and your barrel. Same thing if you don't center the washer and/or felt sticker relative to the foam.

Yes 0.5inch FBR is right, although actual size tends to differ quite a bit from one spool to another.

Pictures would still be helpful.

That would work if his pressure chamber were cracked...which it might be.

However, he says that it might be a faulty valve, in which case he can't just plumbers goop it. Of course,that actually would fix the leak, but...it's not going to be ble to shoot anymore.

To anders: They probably won't notice that a small grey cap is missing off of the end of a barrel that is surrounded by the LBB's shell; you could probably return it no problem.

He already did the under water trick, and a cracked barrel wouldn't be causing this. It must either be:

A. A crack that is "hidden" within the barrel, or

B. The valve.

...you'd need to make the valve part that's inside the plastic just a little bulkier , so that it seals all the way.

Gengar, how would one do that, exactly? I ask because I might be having the same problem with my one and only AT2k (dang, I wish I'd bought them way back when). I haven't had the time to open it up and diagnose the problem yet, so it could just be a crack. At least, I hope it's just a crack.

They are obviously the wrong length, but if they are of the same diameter you may be able to adapt the stockade to fit them.

 

I doubt anyone has done any testing on these motors to know if they are "good" for nerf. Are there any markings on the thunder tumbler motors?

Hi Bryan.

 

Introductory posts are generally not preferred, but you did ask some questions, too, so I guess it's cool.

 

1. I'm really not sure about Jolt spring replacement, but sometimes a blaster will surprise you with what it can actually handle. According to this threada [k26] won't fit but there is some debate as to whether an Ace 62 will destroy a Jolt.

 

2. I really don't know of anyone who has one of these high end air rifles you're talking about. They would probably need a barrel replacement and, if the "stock" caliber is small, it may not actually have the power to throw a larger projectile as far as you might think.

 

If you could get it to fire a dart, however, it would probably not fly very far, or very straight. Nerf darts (even homemade ones) aren't really made to be shot at 1000+ feet per second.

 

Anyway, welcome and enjoy.

 

PS: The steel nuts were almost certainly too heavy for a rampage, which is why they didn't fly far. Also, you should probably cover any metal on your darts with some sort of padding. You know, for safety's sake.

 

 

 

I feel like I act like a 2009 moderator with no powers...

And if you acted like that in 2009 you wouldn't have the power to post at all right now. The Code of Conduct does explicitly state "No back seat moderating." So knock it off.

You mean an overpressure release valve? Like, that is at the end of an Airtech's pump shaft?

Yes, it does: but, instead of being on the pump shaft, it is on the firing mechanism. It is a small hole on the end opposite the the trigger button, next to a screw. PS: don't mess with that screw.

If you actually do mean a check valve, like what is in the pump tube of an Airtech...well, I guess so...

You stole my idea! Just kidding. But seriosuly, I had an idea a while back similar to this, but not using the clip. Actually, yours reminds me of the M1 Garand. I like it.

The idea of using a spring to force the "barrel adapter" up against the shell is cool, but it might slow the plunger too much, thus decreasing the range. Instead, you could link the "barrel adapter" to the trigger.

The other things you have to consider is getting the dart to go smoothly into the fixed part of the barrel, and holding that barrel in place. That last part is pretty much where I'm stuck on my homemade.

I am unaware of any hardware store springs that you can simply swap in.

However you may be able to make use of a "power stock" such as this one: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=10722

(Note: you don't actually need a recon stock or anything like that)

Reinforcements are probably preferred with any srping addition/replacement.

The other is a Big Blast. (even if you did know, i'm telling you)

This?

 

That's a Buzz Bee Belt Blaster, not a Big Blast.

Wow, my first Off Topic topic...

Anyway, I just read about this "Dayglo Lightsaber Battle" in Toronto.

I know I won't be attending (too far away from me), but I thought some of you may be in the area and find it fun. Details are on the afore-linked page.

I've been told that methyl methacrylate-based adhesives will give you the some of the best bonds between pieces of ABS (which is what nerf shells are made of).

 

Thus, I suggest thistype of epoxy. They sell it at Lowes.

I actually ordered some of these motors (on purpose), but haven't had the time to try them out. I suspect that they may need a battery with higher voltage than a 2S LiPo.

They'd better not! It's the only cool-looking N-strike blaster left (except maybe...maybe the Recon).

*still weeps when he remembers that the Mav is no longer blue and yellow*

As a side note, major hardware stores don't usually carry brass (except maybe Acce or True Value). I've never heard of a Lowes or Home Depot having the kind of brass that we use as barrels.

If you want brass, check out your local hobby shop, or online. A common brand of brass is "K&S."

But, like others said, it's up to you to find what barrel material fits your darts and your modification.

4. Go to a hardware store with the stock spring and see if you can find something stronger that you can replace it with.

 
 

4: most of the springs at my local hardware stores are not that long or are only good for reverse plungered blasters. And also because the prime on this thing with the stock spring is extremely heavy.
ALSO, this blaster was bought from goodwill for $6

 
FYI This is a good replacement spring: https://www.amazon.c...s/dp/B000BQOUIQ
Or you can get it at Home Depot  http://www.homedepot...16084/202045472
 
Questions:
1. When you removed the air restrictors did you perhaps cause a leak between the plunger tube and the front plate (where the air restrictor was)?
2. How far is it shooting? How far do you want it to shoot? I mean, when Make Test Battle singled theirs they only got 160ft/sec max so I wouldn't expect to get yours to fire even 70feet flat especially with the stock spring.
3 What darts are you using?
 
To troubleshoot, you may want to take off the RSCB entirely. just put a single shot barrel on it and see how it shoots.

I would suggest you don't follow Lord Draconical's youtube, especially when it comes to using trustfires or ultrafires.
 
Read this Rapid Red writeup and to learn the basics and watch this video for stryfe specifics.
 
If you want to seesome of the battery/motor options you have, I suggest reading through (the entirety) of some of the more recent topics here where the rapidstrike, raven, and even stryfe are discussed.

After that reading/watching If you have a specific question or want to double check that a certain battery would be good, feel free to ask.

 

If you don't want to/don't know how to solder, you could purchase a drop-in kit here (also comes with motors). You'd still need to get your own battery and charger.

So, wait...there's some sort of upload bar to post the pics on Nerfhaven?

Well, I'm pretty sure you're doing something wrong because I've never seen anything like that with Photobucket (which I realize is different, but still...).

Have you read the image posting tutorials here? They don't have anything specifically about Photobook, but maybe they will give you some general ideas.

Or, you could just get an account on Photobucket...never failed me before, and it's quite easy to post pics from there onto here.

Also, here are links to the tutorials:
1
2

 

Replacing or reinforcing the trigger is a must

 

If you can't do it yourself

There is a check valve (I believe what you are calling the one-way valve) in the pump.

Check the position of the front half of your reverse-plunger. A lot of people put it in the wrong position (i.e., too far back).

Although, it sounds like yours just suddenly stopped working (as opposed to after you opened it), so...I don't know.

He linked a retailiator kit but is asking about it to use in a recon. Keep in mind it should work but there is no guarantee

 

Good catch. Not sure if anyone would have experience putting it on a recon...most people avoid them since the Retaliator came out.

 

Or maybe he's even talking about the Recon Mk2?

 

(sorry if this is backseat moderating but a Retaliator is at stake here).

 

 You're allowed to correct information.

 

What we don't want is people posting the equivalent of a five year old saying "OOOOOOOOOOOOH You're gonna get in troooooooouble!" every time a new user breaks a relatively minor rule. If we don't like it we'll let them know and close the thread if necessary.

 

While we appreciate the fact that they apparently now know the rules, we don't actually need other slightly-less-new users (who probably made the same mistake just a few months prior) to help call attention to a newer user's mistake.

 

Good rule of thumb: If someone would call you a teacher's pet or a tattletale, you're doing it wrong.

It is strongly suggested that you do not use Trustfires in motorized blasters, for both safety and performance reasons.

For a beginner, I would suggest purchasing a 7.2 volt NiMH R/C car batery pack instead and do this; You can check your local hobby shop, amazon, or ebay for batteries and chargers.

You'll be much happier with how quickly you are able to shoot and how it shoots when going full auto, plus you'll be less of a fire hazard.

CS is right that there is no dead space, as long as you can slip your barrel all the way back against the blast chambers. There are some tabs in there that you will have to dremel, at least if you are using OMC PETG.

Also, I wanted to add that a fair a mount of stuff can be removed from the blast chamber piece. I was able to cut the three blast chambers apart and got them down so that they are pretty much just three cylinders. You'll have to be careful, however, not to actually cut into the blast chamber.

I will repeat that, with emphasis: while cutting the blast chambers apart from one another, it is easy to actually cut into a blast chamber. Be careful!

On barrel length: early reports suggested 2.5 or 3 inches. I used 2.5 inches of OMC PETG and got satisfactory results (though I haven't actually done a range test).

Youtube has its uses (if that is indeed the correct commercial).

Anyway, in the comments there, they said it was AM 180 by Granddaddy.

The circles go over shafts that help guide the "sled" that pulls back the plungers.

 

The white part with a spring is a lock, but I'm not sure which one. It's possible that leaving it out will prevent another lock from releasing when it should.