Welcome back, good to see that you're back to strapping new plunger tubes to "pistols."

and holds seven balls instead of six

You just can't look beyond simple capacity for taking in balls can you? I bet the Cosmic Thruster had a much better personality.

In 2008 Ice Nine introduced me to the Nerf hobby and in 2009 I hosted (and thus attended) my first war.

1: What?
2: I blame Demon Lord

Pros:
- Seeing BadWrench's RC tank-truck first hand
- Being able to match faces to names
- Having my 3B fire on par with the plethora of PAS's (granted, wind gave a 40' range ceiling), despite having it being constructed 20 mins before the war started
- Watching mindlord pull off some insane rushes
- Rocking dual mavs during pistols
- $5 BBB (no springs, but I use industrial springs anyways)

Cons:
- Jumping sideways to shoot Ice9 with dual mavericks in an attempt to dodge him; I hit him, but got hit anyways, and then hit the ground. Hard.
- Cutting my fingers/hands on brass
- Nitemav failing miserably due to the cold
- Not paying attention while reloading and having br1fm ninja me from behind

No.

What is "cost prohibitive?" True, 3rd party printing is expensive. Current quotes that I'm seeing is about $35 $13* for a plaster plastic* print of half the shell at about 1/8" wall thickness. Comes to about $90 $35* for my hand-feel prototype. That's certainly well within my fun-budget.

My questions were framed before knowing your intention with his design or resources.
If you wanted to make some sort of conversion kit that you could then sell to other people, it wouldn't make a lot of sense then for it to be 4-5x the price of a Maverick.

Look into the elite line remakes of the Raider & Longstrike if you want examples of what we call direct plunger systems, while still implemented in a compact manner, but as it seems your purpose is more a cosmetic rearrangement of bulk maverick parts rather than to 3D print a full/new/efficient war blaster, so I wouldn't worry about it; do whatever you want since its your own project anyways.

Since the quality and effort here is much better than your regular MS Paint concept thread, it won't be locked immediately. However, my confidence in this project actually seeing fruition is fairly low.

What resources do you have for 3D printing and resin casting?
How are you factoring cost into desired production?

The last member with a successful 3D design thread had personal access to a 3D printer. The rest following mostly died through halfway. You seem to be relying on 3rd party services which seems very cost prohibitive to a hobby like this.

The general rule here is to do some experimenting yourself; what you read from others won't really teach you what is effective and what isn't.

Coring out an eraser with brass seems pretty reasonable.

How are you moving through squishy foam with PETG? Did you sharpen the PETG? I imaging you'd have to press down on the mat first to compress it enough that the PETG gets some bite into the material but wouldn't that pose a pretty big risk to bending/shattering the stub of PETG you use?

Maybe Canadian PETG is just thicker walled.

Have fun pumping up a Salvo tank to respectable pressures with a SMDTG pump.

Nice use of a shell.

I'm pretty sure the SM trigger does also function as a check valve, so you may be able to add just one, on the SGSL side of the T fitting from the pump.

The trigger functions effectively as a check valve for chambers #2 and #3. For #1 you're going to need a check valve on the ->pump inlet.

https://encrypted.go...e:nerfhaven.com

You absolutely must post a video so we all may hear the beautiful music it makes!

What is wrong with you? Were you raised my bears or something?

Moose dude. Bears are for places like North Idaho.

META META META META META

First!!

You already have a thread open on this topic. Post in there.

If you can't find any you may need to order some modding materials from McMaster-Carr. They do have pretty good deals there, it doesn't cost much but I'm not sure on shipping.

McMaster-Carr will not help this guy because he lives in the UK. McMaster-Carr won't even ship to Canada unless you are some megabusiness.

Rule #1 of the Code of Conduct:
Think Before You Post.

There is a Homebase But That only sells Copper and the wrong ID PVC. I will PM thatbritishguy. thanks for the advice.

What do you mean by wrong ID? I'm pretty sure UK pipe uses 12mm instead of like 1/2"

When the darts hit with such power that they pose a real threat of injury.

That's generally the way the midwest goes. But then our wars end up being the 100+ guys running around and wiping the floor with dudes who use anything that shoots less than +bow ranges.

The last few Chicago wars, I haven't seen a single round victory by someone who didn't have a +bow or near-equivalent blaster.

EDIT 2- Just another example. Your hopper clip w/ +bow could be used by anyone else and not be nearly as effective as it was in your hands. Now, if it had been blanket banned, or the darts had been restricted, we wouldn't know that. However, if the individual using it got a chance to at the beginning of the day, it would be understood that it wasn't /too/ good.

The hopper clip is the most unbalanced thing to ever come out of nerf. Because of the design, it makes diddle guns even better, and doesn't work quite so well on the more mediocre guns (BBB for example).

A hopper on my BBBB can spit out 8 100' shots in around 9 seconds. Add a flap-type check valve to it and reloading is even easier than with a ball valve: I can reload all 8 in the clip in maybe 11 seconds.

If we don't want to go about limiting effective dart range, then we should probably limit any 100'+ gun to 4 shots before reloading.

Megas, on the otherhand are easy to make, and offer (honestly) not a huge drop in performance, but a MAJOR increase in accuracy. Its simply the whole "Bigger projectile" thing.

Low weight micros > megas.

You decrease the maximum range of the dart, and you also decrease accuracy, but in a scaling fashion. The 70' gun will still get 60' but the 140' diddle cannon might only muster 90'

If anyone was actually interested in leveling the playing field so that those newbie players with single-barrel BBBs aren't getting hosed by firefly turrets and various inline/rscb/hopper clips.

The major problem here is that this issue seems very much localized because Midwest wars end up being team +bow against team blowgun.

For those of you from the North or the South or the [insert geographic region here], I don't believe you actually understand what overpowered blasters are. You speak of a small number of those with completely stupid guns, but those that are only 20% better than what the rest of the field has.
I don't think you can truly understand unfair on a systematic level until your wars are attended by people with stock-dart shooting magstrikes vs. those who can put 8 shots through 4 layers of cardboard in under 12 seconds. And unlike the Mag7's ban on "Doomsayers", it isn't not a select few who have the super-gun, it's half the field that completely dominates the other half.
Minnesota wars allow singled titans and SM5ks. That's because everyone there can come within 80% of that power. Nothing is more frustrating for a new player in this hobby who just wants to nerf and not spend hours modding and stroking their epeen on boards than to get pelted from 3x his range by every veteran.

A dart weight limit, for us, would greatly level the field while still letting the dedicated nerfers to be able to squeeze out an extra 5 or 10' (instead of 40 or 50' if using high-mass darts) with super mods.

The rarest attachment is critical thinking ability.

This thread is going nowhere fast and is exactly why we disallow "what mod should I do" threads.

There are plenty of writeups where the specific spring is mentioned. There is also a longshot megathread where they are mentioned.

This thread is dumb. Do your own research.

You should sand down your blaster before painting if you want the best result. That way you can apply the paint in light coatings and still have it adhere well without building up that texture you are complaining about. Finally, you can use a layer of clear coat (find it in the automotive paint or hobby pain section of your hardware store as "clear coat" or "high gloss finish") to get back that glossy look and protect the paint.

i use game workshop so you could use game workshop

USER WAS WARNED FOR THIS POST

Please put more effort into your posts.

Thank you for demonstrating the perfect example of why Nerfhaven discourages "what [ x ] do I do for [ y ]" posts. It usually is a lot of unsupported opinions with small gems of fact buried too deep in the noise for anyone to find anyways.

"What is best" threads are explicitly prohibited under the New Members Guide

Robots don't need jokes.

That's pretty awesome Slug, but you don't need me to tell you that.

NerfHQ seems to also be RIP'd.

Looks out our elitist circlejerking wins the test of time!

stuff

Try not to be so adamant when you have no idea what you're talking about.

Slagr, I take it you want to build an oversized push-pull gun that is powered by gravity rather than your arm. This is easily feasible. The only comment I have is that a 10" diameter pipe is probably overkill. If you have a taller but thinner pipe, air volume is the same, but you will build up more acceleration through gravity and will get better results anyways.
This is what a 4" diameter pipe does, powered by hand:

Writeup on the plunger mechanism:
http://www.nerfrevol...c.php?f=9&t=870

If I add dart/time to air/time will I finally have bullet/time?

I shoot a mav. You shoot a singled titan. Which bullet has more air time? The titan's dart.

Actually, they have almost the same air time. *raucous buzzer noise*

Asking about mods is a classic FNG mistake. Don't do it. Read about it here: New Members Guide

Spray paint will fade quickly from the backs of darts.

If you're more patient, you can paint the back of them with acrylic. My darts from wars in June are showing up and the paint is still on them.
Also, darts land weight down, usually in grass, so what's the point of painting anything besides the back of them?

It seems like you have a lot of issues you need to iron out during the build which is primarily why we don't allow build logs here.

What I'm doing is setting small timers to avoid using the delay() function and stopping everything. It's starting a timer with millis(), then using the duration variable to compare to the elapsed time. Although I do see the memory issue; it would make more sense to reset the timer to 0 every time.

I think I understand your code better than you. Like I've said, I've never read the Arduino SDK docs, but I can figure out what millis() or delay() do/would do. Do you see why your original code here doesn't actually cause the LED to flash?

  // LED FLASH CODE
  if (ledstate == 0) {
    unsigned long currentMillis = millis();
    if(currentMillis - previousMillis > leddelay) {
      // Reset the timer
      previousMillis = currentMillis;
      
      // Turn on the LED
      digitalWrite(led, HIGH);
      
      // Keep the LED on until the ledon time is over
      if(currentMillis - previousMillis > ledon) {
        
        // Reset the timer again
        previousMillis = currentMillis;
        
        // Turn the LED off
        digitalWrite(led, LOW);
      }
    }
  }

For those of you who are programmers, anything seem wrong here? It compiles okay.

I've never done anything with an Arduino but I know plenty of C and this code looks just like C. I'm assuming some of the Arduino library functionality from your comments but here are some suggestions:

  // BUTTON CODE
  if (digitalRead(button) == LOW) {
    safety = !safety // @ZL: This is a much easier way to toggle a boolean since !0 = 1
  }

  // LED FLASH CODE
  if (ledstate == 0) {
    unsigned long currentMillis = millis(); // Declare this variable outside loop
                                            // so you don't reallocate memory all day

    if(currentMillis - previousMillis > leddelay) {
      // Reset the timer
      previousMillis = currentMillis;
      // @ZL: You're storing an unsigned long into a long here ^ ?
      //If you're expecting to overflow the long with your millis() the make previousMillis unsigned

There is also a problem with your loop, if I'm correct in assuming millis() just pulls in current circuit system time.

Currently your code doesn't turn the LED off, since the conditional to turn it off occurs inside the conditional to turn it on. If you simply move it outside, then you will never turn the LED on, since every 10 ms you will be repeatedly turning the LED off. You should only check to turn the LED on if it is already off, or turn it off when it is already on.

Here's my version, with different variable names to make things unambiguous and easier for myself:

// SOMEWHERE OUTSIDE loop()
  LED_is_on = (digitalRead(led) == HIGH);   // reads the current LED status
                                            // might be unnecessary if the LED always starts off
// IN loop()
  // MAIN VARIABLE HANDLERS
  ledstate = safetyOn; // I'm not sure why you have an ledstate variable if it just always
                        // takes on the value of safetyOn but sure w/e
  if (safetyOn) { // 0 is false, nonzero is true, so if(x == 0) is redudant
    digitalWrite(relay, LOW);
  }
  else {
    digitalWrite(relay, HIGH);
  }
  
  // LED FLASH CODE
  if (!ledstate) { //Remember, if(x) is same as if(x<>0), if(!x) is same as if(x==0)
    now = millis()
    if (LED_is_on && (now - lastTime) > LED_blinkFor) {
        lastTime = now;
        LED_is_on = 0;
        digitalWrite(led, LOW);
    } else if (!LED_is_on && (now - lastTime) > LED_nextBlink) {
        lastTime = now;
        LED_is_on = 1;
        digitalWrite(led, HIGH);
    }
}

Edit: My point about the LED toggle not functioning properly may be invalid if hardware limitations and code execution delay means that you will actually cover 10 ms of real-time while executing within one conditional. So your original code might work, but relying on hardware limitation for software functionality is pretty poor practice.

Good to see you got your problem solved.

To everyone else, this is what a "help me" thread should look like: specific problem, clear description, and ample pictures.

Great location and fast pacing with a small group meant I spent more time Nerfing than taking photos.

Here's a couple from the one 3-15 Team Deathmatch we played:
https://www.facebook...100004214209428

This is basically an outdoor war held indoors right? Standard nerf blasters are fine i.e. there won't be too much close-quarters firing?

I see Kane is going so maybe I don't have to buy a plane ticket and check a bag full of Nerf blasters.

I would be extremely amused if your batteries had enough juice to advance the mechanism against the plunger return spring, the dart tooth, and the main plunger spring, but not enough to advance the mechanism against the above plus the friction of the dart in the plunger tube (and compressing against the dart tooth).

Try the following:

1) Replace the batteries
2) Check the bolt for any obstructions that prevent the dart from securing itself (unlikely issue since your darts don't seem torn or compressed)
3) Check for impediments in the dart tooth that would only come up if there was a dart in the way.