roboman's Content

#326855 L.A.Z.?Y.

Posted by roboman on 14 February 2013 - 11:43 PM in Nerf Wars

I will probably be there.

#332439 S.U.M.D.A.G

Posted by roboman on 29 July 2013 - 01:42 AM in Nerf Wars

Not gonna be able to make it to this one. I leave for college on the 17th, so I guess it'll be a while before I can make it out to another SCUN war.

#328182 W.H.O.O.P.S.

Posted by roboman on 18 March 2013 - 11:30 PM in Nerf Wars

Won't be able to make it this time around. Robotics competitions for the next two weeks.

#325496 L.A.T.E.

Posted by roboman on 19 January 2013 - 11:53 PM in Nerf Wars

I should be able to make it. Mostly depends on what's going on with robotics and all.

#363279 Best aluminum longshot boltsled and spring combo?

Posted by roboman on 16 August 2018 - 05:25 PM in Modifications

Hi. I still make boltsleds and they're $65 each + shipping. They're available through my facebook page. I'm not really active on here anymore so if you have any questions, feel free to send the page a PM or use my email that's listed on there.

Turf springs are the highest quality you can get and are very affordable. They are available here.

#343430 Calipers or expertise needed!

Posted by roboman on 10 December 2014 - 04:16 PM in Darts and Barrels

A ±0.01" tolerance means that the ID of an acceptable piece of tube can be anywhere between .490" and .510". If you want someone else to measure a different piece of tube for you, their measurement is going to be somewhere in between those two limits, and likely not the same as the stuff you'd get if you order it. In my experience you can expect it to be closer to ±0.005", but it still varies between batches (enough that I switched over to the aluminum equivalent, which still isn't great, but is better).

#330015 S.P.A.R.G.L.E.D.

Posted by roboman on 20 May 2013 - 01:05 AM in Nerf Wars

Almost definitely won't be able to make it to this one, since it's both the day after prom, and less than a week before a huge engineering project is due. June should be good, though.

#244781 Bite It Mac Owners!

Posted by roboman on 30 July 2009 - 09:25 PM in Off Topic

How do you Mac users feel now?

Perfectly safe. If you're not using Firefox, something is wrong with you (no offense, Safari lovers).

#244784 Bite It Mac Owners!

Posted by roboman on 30 July 2009 - 09:39 PM in Off Topic

Your right i have a PC with Firefox and love it, but everyone i know with a Mac uses Safari.

That's funny, every Mac user that I know of (including myself) uses Firefox. I find that Safari has flaws, and isn't compatible with many websites.

#202180 Maverick Mod Gone Wrong?

Posted by roboman on 09 January 2009 - 09:21 PM in General Nerf

Pictures would help...

#312821 S.Q.U.A.R.E.

Posted by roboman on 13 March 2012 - 10:27 PM in Nerf Wars

100% sure I'm going, +1.

#311992 NERF Wars Video (tribute to NERF)

Posted by roboman on 27 February 2012 - 08:59 PM in General Nerf

I must admit, that was of much higher quality and far more entertaining than I imagined when I saw the topic. I've gotta give you props for that.

#328189 E.A.R.L.Y.

Posted by roboman on 19 March 2013 - 12:31 AM in Nerf Wars

I'll most likely be there.

#336152 Questions about batterys and the rapidstrike

Posted by roboman on 29 December 2013 - 08:07 PM in General Nerf

I am using this battery pack My link

That should be fine.

#336150 Questions about batterys and the rapidstrike

Posted by roboman on 29 December 2013 - 07:54 PM in General Nerf

That mostly depends on how fast you want it to shoot. At higher voltages, you'll have a harder time controlling how many darts you shoot when you pull the trigger. The general consensus seems to be that a 3 cell LiPo (11.1V nominal) is right around the point that it is too fast to easily control. If you're running a 2 cell pack (7.4V nominal), you'll probably be fine if you connect the flywheels and pusher motor to the same pack.

#313838 Supermaxx 500 Leak

Posted by roboman on 01 April 2012 - 03:32 PM in Modifications

Well, if you haven't already, I'd suggest holding the valve open and blowing some compressed air in with an air compressor or one of those "canned air" things. It might be as simple as a piece of debris on the front wall of the tank or on the rubber itself.

#323989 Y.U.L.E.T.I.D.E.

Posted by roboman on 28 November 2012 - 12:47 AM in Nerf Wars

I will be there.

#311997 G.E.N.O.C.I.D.E.S.

Posted by roboman on 27 February 2012 - 09:29 PM in Nerf Wars

Yes, Robo, it is. Me and Korned have the day off, and Brian is free that weekend. Or should I say this weekend.

Pfft, fine, I see how it is. Obviously, I'm not going.

#311991 G.E.N.O.C.I.D.E.S.

Posted by roboman on 27 February 2012 - 08:46 PM in Nerf Wars

Is this seriously on a Monday?

#338573 Need some help

Posted by roboman on 30 April 2014 - 03:16 PM in Homemades

Gears is correct. Amazon carries the rails - they're between $7 and $10 or so, and ship free with prime if you have it. The longer mount is for a 9 slot rail, the shorter one is for a 7 slot. If you'd like, I can print you new ones with standard picatinny rails that don't require the MOE rails. The reason those ones are set up the way they are is because I was supplied with the rails beforehand.

Note that I don't currently have black filament and if you want them to match, you'll either have to paint them or wait for me to get black filament when I get back home for summer break in a couple weeks. I can only imagine that the grip and stock plate are painted; I've never printed anything in black except for the rail mounts, and those were on Lucian's printer the night before Apoc. Also, I can replace that stock plate for you, if you'd like. At the time, I didn't realize how low the density was on the Stratasys printer, and now that I have my own, I can make much stronger things that don't take forever to print.

EDIT: Oh hey, my PM inbox was full. Sorry about that, if you were trying to contact me before, you can do it now.

#330511 W.A.R.M.U.P.

Posted by roboman on 02 June 2013 - 10:46 PM in Nerf Wars

Oh if you bring the tanks we talked about, I can buy them there. If I can convince my buddy to come with, that is haha.

I'll see if I can have them ready by then.

#330502 W.A.R.M.U.P.

Posted by roboman on 02 June 2013 - 06:51 PM in Nerf Wars

I'll try to be at this one. I think my dad wants to have a barbeque or something, but I'll see if he can move it to the next day.

#331010 Stretching Foam

Posted by roboman on 18 June 2013 - 12:37 PM in Darts and Barrels

Ya, I was thinking of a method similar to what Ryan mentioned it his slug making thread.

I used to use other barrels (mcmaster sch80, PETG, 9/16 brass) and they worked pretty well, but they were just expensive and all needed pvc couplers which were sometimes to big to use. I just like the cpvc because it is mad cheap and has its own couplers.

As for other foams, I really like foam that I can use a high-temp hot glue gun on just because it is much easier on the fingers and makes, in my opinion, better darts, and from What I hear mcmaster foam can't be used with a high temp hot glue guns.

I would really like people who actually stretch or have stretched their foam to respond(no offense roboman). And if anyone has different methods then what has been posted on Nerfhaven I would love to hear them.

Yeah, Sch40 PVC couplers can get annoying, I totally see where you're coming from there. If you're REALLY careful, you might be able to drill out some CPVC to accept PETG, so you can stick with CPVC couplers, but use a looser barrel material. Alternatively, you can get [mcm]1658T49{/mcm], which is compatible with CPVC couplers, but is aluminum and has the same ID as PETG. Not as cheap as CPVC, but certainly not super expensive.

Mcmaster foam can sort of be used with high-temp guns, but only if you move quickly. I have a dual-temp gun, and I switch back and forth somewhat frequently to maintain a temperature somewhere in between the two extremes, but that's obviously less than ideal.

I have actually stretched foam, as I said, but I've only used the hand-stretching method with limited success.

#330976 Stretching Foam

Posted by roboman on 17 June 2013 - 08:12 PM in Darts and Barrels

It really depends on the technique you use to stretch the foam. Ryan and Kane have had a great deal of success with the stretching frame they built for their pink foam, but that works particularly well for foam that's already cut into even segments, like theirs is. I'd imagine it would be a great deal more time consuming to have to do that to a whole spool of foam. I've seen some people hand-stretch their foam by tugging on shorter sections of it as they move down a length of foam. I've tried that, and it seemed to work, though it can be tough to achieve consistency while maintaining a good pace.

As for the big foam, it should work similarly, though you may need to pull a bit harder to get it to change diameters effectively.

You know that you can buy foam from other online suppliers, right? I usually get mine from Mcmaster, and while it's not necessarily the best out there, it works fine for me, and conveniently comes from the same place I order most other supplies for projects. It also tends to be a bit smaller than most other foam, for whatever reason (snug, but not particularly tight in CPVC-sized barrels). Of course, I can totally understand not wanting to throw out a bunch of foam, just because it barely doesn't fit.

You might consider switching to looser barrels on everything, though. That's usually significantly easier than shrinking your foam.

#345548 I lost all my retaliator screws

Posted by roboman on 14 March 2015 - 04:35 PM in Modifications

99461A825

#3-24 thread forming plastic screws are replacements for stock Nerf screws. They're also not terribly cheap in small quantities, so you may actually be able to save money by buying a cheaper blaster and pulling the screws from it.

#304764 S.P.U.D.

Posted by roboman on 16 September 2011 - 09:24 PM in Nerf Wars

I'll be there, and I'll have one of the new Vortex guns for "testing."

#304333 Valve Help

Posted by roboman on 05 September 2011 - 11:24 AM in Homemades

It would really help me if the image was bigger - I can't read the text around it.
From what you've said, your problem could stem from the grommet not being tight enough around the pin. You probably need to make the counterbore where the grommet goes slightly smaller, which means that you'll most likely have to re-make the entire thing. A lathe would be quite helpful.

I guess that as long as you can see the picture, I can fill you in on the problem area (the rest doesn't matter.) Basically the main valve ID is 7/16in then it tapers to 1/4in and then it expands to 1/2in to fit in the grommet. It has friction between the firing pin and the grommet already, and the surface area of the ID of the grommet is about an 1/8in deep. I don't have access to a lathe, and I don't really want to have to spend alot of money to get it custom made. I know you do custom work for a relatively cheap price, but it's still an expense I'd like to avoid.

I see. If I correctly understand what Ricochet is saying, he's suggesting a second set of o-rings on the stem. This a a really good idea, as it is easier to implement, especially if you've used a bolt and standoff as your pin. All you'd need to do is make another o-ring "sandwich," like you did before, and install it on the other end of the rod. This would necessitate the removal of the area that normally holds the grommet in place, but should make the valve much easier to produce, should you ever need to make another.

#304291 Valve Help

Posted by roboman on 04 September 2011 - 05:34 PM in Homemades

~~(I hope I put up the image the right way.)~~ (why is this so hard?)

I'm having trouble with the grommet's seal on the valve I'm making. I epoxied it into place and the seal will hold up to 20 psi. After that, it leaks from the area between the standoff and the ID of the grommet. How can I fix this? I'm out of delrin so I hope to fix this without having to remachine the whole thing. Perhaps the trouble is because I made this on a drill press instead of a lathe, possibly causing a slight misalignment.

[IMG]http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc374/lighthawk2/ValveDiagram.jpg[/IMG]

Copy/paste that in place of the broken image code in your post.

It would really help me if the image was bigger - I can't read the text around it.
From what you've said, your problem could stem from the grommet not being tight enough around the pin. You probably need to make the counterbore where the grommet goes slightly smaller, which means that you'll most likely have to re-make the entire thing. A lathe would be quite helpful.

#299939 W.A.A.G.O.B. (SCUN June War)

Posted by roboman on 16 June 2011 - 12:16 AM in Nerf Wars

I'm coming.

Should be there, and ready to unveil a new game type that Mr.Apollo and I have been working on.

Ooh, sounds fun!

#320881 How much does FBR expand when heated?

Posted by roboman on 22 August 2012 - 11:24 PM in Darts and Barrels

12mm foam is probably your best bet. If anything, just heat it in increments, and test the blanks between each heating cycle. I think you'll have a pretty hard time getting that foam to expand more than .7mm, as that's actually quite a bit.

#202181 Springs Help

Posted by roboman on 09 January 2009 - 09:23 PM in Modifications

Try a hardware store (I'm not sure if they have ACE hardware stores in Canada), but any hardware store should have springs.

#202202 Good Airsoft Gun?

Posted by roboman on 09 January 2009 - 10:02 PM in Off Topic

This is actually pretty nice. It gets around 220 fps, and the magazine holds 400 rounds. I have one, and it works great!

#202185 Good Airsoft Gun?

Posted by roboman on 09 January 2009 - 09:26 PM in Off Topic

In case you haven't noticed, this is a NERF forum. If you want to make topics like that, please do it on an AIRSOFT forum.

#170944 Recon

Posted by roboman on 20 August 2008 - 01:53 PM in General Nerf

They have a tendency to chew up darts.

#314306 B.A.C.K.L.O.G.

Posted by roboman on 11 April 2012 - 09:21 PM in Nerf Wars

I should be there.

#331466 possible balls for a homeade

Posted by roboman on 01 July 2013 - 07:35 PM in Darts and Barrels

I've seen a number of people use them. They work quite well in big airguns, particularly when you shotgun load a bunch of them in some PVC and cram darts between the balls. Makes for a really nice short-range spread. I'm pretty sure most people use them with 1.5" Sch. 40 PVC, which should give you a fairly tight fit.

#308147 SBBAFF&SCUNW planning

Posted by roboman on 08 December 2011 - 11:02 PM in Nerf Wars

I'm thinking sometime in the late spring or summer, just knowing on how slow the family bureaucracy is, and I need time to get stuff moving, like darts and maybe mob'.

Late spring or summer would work nicely. Mysterio and Korned, keep in mind that my dad's plane has two seats, and a very small baggage compartment. We might be able to borrow my dad's friend's plane, though...I guess we'll have to see as this gets closer to having an actual date.

#308109 SBBAFF&SCUNW planning

Posted by roboman on 07 December 2011 - 10:15 PM in Nerf Wars

I might actually be willing to go, if there's a large enough attendance. From Google Maps, it looks like it's right down the street from the airport, so I might be able to convince my dad to fly there with me.

#340880 How is the LA community?

Posted by roboman on 01 August 2014 - 02:36 PM in Nerf Wars

A vast majority of the SCUN guys aren't active on NIC forums. We have wars every other month or so, and as Mysterio said, there's one in Long Beach on the 16th that I'm hosting. We usually see 10-15 people at our smaller events, and generally around 40 at Armageddon. There's another group based in Norwalk that primarily uses lightly modded Elite gear and does a lot of HvZ.

The thread for the G.L.U.E.D.O.M.E.S. war is here. You should definitely try to make it out if you're available.

#321228 H.N.R.G.G.

Posted by roboman on 29 August 2012 - 09:53 PM in Nerf Wars

I will be there, possibly with two others.

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