- The mod is solid but I have to say I have seen like eight topics on backpressure works and your's is the first to make any sense to me and it makes TOTAL sense. So thank you for the stellar crude drawing.

- I have to second pretty much all of this. I have two hornets just sitting around because I never quite got how they work.

Now you know.
And knowing is half the battle

Also a Triumph the Dog puppet sounds like a great idea, assuming the wearer plays the character right.

Dont know why, but I thought of Mr. Hat when this topic was brought up...

Was there any paticular reason you only used 3 tanks?

That was all I could really fit on the PVC without destroying the aesthetics. My original plan was to use all 6 all the way around the PVC, but that simply wasnt going to work as they barrels would have been blocked by my hand at several places.

1) For me, yes. But it's all in getting the sizing right. What's comfy for me might be too tight for someone else.
2) It depends on how you rig the trigger. My trigger is tethered at both ends (one end by the tubing, the other by the LED wires), so I cant let the trigger hang so as to grip a second gun. That said, I can prime a gun in my right hand just fine.

NOTE: these air guns seem to have an air leak defect. I tried two of them, and they both leaked in the same area, right out of the hex nut where the seal is held. I was able to fix both of them by using JB Weld and sealing around the nut.



Anyway, the final step is the hardest. Space out your Hornet barrels and mark where you want them. Drill holes to hold the tanks down with zip ties. Make sure the tubing is flexible enough to properly fit them together.





Now for LEDs!



And there you have it. A semi-home-made wrist blaster that can get ~70 with 3 darts on ~6 pumps. And it looks freaking awesome.

http://i53.photobuck...et/IMG_0367.jpg

http://i53.photobuck...et/IMG_0369.jpg

http://i53.photobuck...et/IMG_0373.jpg


The only regret I have on mine is not straightening the tubing. I thought I was going to have 5 barrels, so I didn’t know that last tank WAS the last tank, thus the tubing doesn’t “end” properly and curves upwards to reach the tee. Otherwise, proof of concept and I’m overall really happy with this.

You could also call it Megaman, or Iron Man or Metroid, or even those stupid things from Yu-Gi-Oh season 1. However you want to spin it, this is really fun to create and use.

First, you have to know how a Hornet works. The tanks use a back pressure system to fire. Don’t know what that is? Here’s a crude diagram.



Ok, so we need three things: a back pressure tank, a pump, and a release valve. Any subsequent tanks can be wired in series, so they all fill at the same rate and will be released at (roughly) the same time. This is exactly what the Hornet’s stock kill-all trigger does.

The grand diagram would look like this:



Plus or minus, depending on how many barrels you can fit.

So, here’s what you need:

Hornet
A cloth glove
One 3” PVC coupler
Some 1” thick foam
3/16” tees
One 3/16” elbow
One 3/16” barb to ¼” male thread
One air blow gun (can be found at WalMart or Ace, usually with car supplies)
About 5’ of 3/16” tubing
Zip ties

For fun:
12 Volt battery
A few LEDs
Spray paint

First, you have to get the coupler sized right. It needs to fit your wrist tight, but you still have to be able to slip it off your hand. For mine, I cut down 1” thick foam into a 4” by 3” rectangle, and cut the rectangle in half so it was only ½” thick.



And glued it onto the PVC coupler with zap-a-gap. You could probably use high strength super glue or even hot glue.



Now that you know the size you have to work with, prep the Hornet.

Cut the tubing to the Hornet barrels, leaving as much of the tubing attached to the barrels as possible. Cut the barrels apart from each other, so you’re left with something like this:



Using a screw driver, take off the barrel and gray shield, by prying it off. (thanks to Just Some Bob and deadshooter711 for the advise).



The barrel will pop off and leave you with just the tank.



Cut some CPVC and glue them to the tanks. 4 inches seems best. I put some hot glue in the base to set them and level them, then sealed around the crease with plumbers goop.



While those dry, move on to the pump. Seal of OP valve



And if it fits, glue the pump on the inside of the coupler. Dremel as necessary. If not, just glue it on the outside. Lucky me, I have small hands.





Once that is FIRMLY in place and whatever glue you used is dry, move on to the glove. Mark it at a comfortable position and drill holes to literally stitch it to the PVC.



(Also, that’s a battery case under the string, which I’m going to use to power LEDs). One last piece. Take the air gun and use some gas (yellow) tape to seal on the brass barb.



This is also where I put the momentary switch for the LEDs.




(hold please)

So the entire orange barrel and gray faceplate can be just pulled off? Sweet! Would you recommend the boiling water trick to dissolve the glue, or is that a bad idea in this case?

I know the Hornet tanks are back-pressure systems, and I know how that works. That said, is there any sure way to safely remove the ARs without breaking the valve? What is the "stop drilling!" point on them?

Also, has anyone tested the max PSI on a Hornet? The only thing I really have to go by is the OPR valve on the pump gives out at around 6-7 pumps, about 1 pump per tank. I see some people pump it up to about 30 however. Anyone every had one explode?

Most of it is welded.
The tank does screw on, mine was just stuck apparently.

From what I've seen (and read from the other topic), I should be able to cut it vertically alone the line of the back of the trigger. I'm still not that close to doing this integration, but I'll certainly mention how this it works out.

Thanks again!.

I finally got a Drain Blaster ($10 in the trash pile at Ace!). I have an idea for an integration, but I'd like to move the pump to underneath it (via attaching a length of hose). However, I would like to know where I should start cutting and if it's even possible. They're plastic-welded shut, and I'd hate to cut through a seal or something.

Internal pics would be awesome if someone has a couple (post them in the internals thread while you're at it!).

Thanks.

Pegs seem the same.
And the idea that they cant change it because they've already sold some makes zero sense.
Manufactures change stuff all the time to make the end product cheaper.

I'm creating a Crystal Tri-Mav (awesome, I know), and I noticed something...







When did they change the design? The circular design looks more stable and smooth, therefore I assume the hex design is the new one...

New Nitefinder: The Cleaner

I made it for my dentist when I get my braces off in a month
Mods are standard barrel, spring, and LED replacement.

I'm back and with another insane mod. Boba Fett Jetpack!

Driving force is a Titan tank and pump. Trigger is tied to the white rope and routed through the pipes with some pulleys.



On the bottom are speakers, rigged to my iPod. Cant enter a room without the Imperial March playing



All mounted to comfy foam and a padded shoulder strap.



Pump still needs some cosmetic work, but I'm happy with it.

For anyone who wants to know how slam fire works yet doesn't have a mechanical mind-state, I may be able to help. (This is not speculation, I own a Raider)

First off, study and memorize this picture. (picture of internals courtesy of SPV999)

For slam fire, the trigger would be depressed, pushing the nub on part 1 of catch system part way up(Part one of catch system will be from now on referred to as 'P1'). As the user primes the blaster, the forward nub on the boltsled presses down and locks the top-side triangular piece depressed as the plunger tube catches on P2( part 2 of the catch system). So now, the bolt sled is pulled back, the plunger tube is caught, the trigger is being pressed, and P1 nub is partway up. As the user closes the breech, the rearward nub (in the picture, the nub on the boltsled that is touching P1) catches and pulls forward P1, pushing the P1 nub fully up, pressing on P2 and firing the blaster.

Hope this clears up the slam fire speculation!

EDIT
To make it so you can deprime it even when the boltsled it pulled back, you have to get rid of the slam fire. You have to glue P1 forward with some hotglue, so that P1 is stationary, in the forward position.

Thanks, I was kind of waiting for someone to do this...

To fix your fishtailing problem, at least judging from doing the same with a recon, you can weight those darts for starters. Streamlines are easy to mod. Slit the hole slightly wider, pop a BB or other weight of choice in there, and fill with hot glue. If you're going cheap, you can just fill with hot glue, but the BB helps.

Consider changing out the barrel on the front. Those faux barrels like the ones in the longshot and recon actually screw up air dynamics on the dart and throw it off. CPVC is too tight, but PVC or copper should stabalize the flight a little. I haven't tried with PVC, but my longshot works well with copper, though it does cost you a few feet in range, the accuracy improvement might be worth it.

But you'd need rougly the same sized barrel for clearence... so wouldnt the aerodynamics be the same?

I have 3 questions I need answered about the priming bar in the raider: What is the diameter? How much space is provided for the bar to move? And how big a bar is it capable of handling in it's place?

It's about 5/32-6/32" thick. Personally, I think it's plenty tough. There is a groove in the plastic that the bar sits in, and there is very little bending room. There is room for a bigger bar if you feel like cutting out a lot of plastic, but if you're going to put that much torque on it, attaching the new bar to the boltsled could be a problem.

Other side? Could you post a picture or be more descriptive? Thanks in advance.

My Raider's done now, so here's a a picture from the first page with the lock circled.

I edited this into the first post. Hope you dont mind. It's good to know

Well, finished double springing, and therefore my mod(s) and edits. Enjoy.

That was an overcomplicated way of saying "probably not."

Yeah, I type while I'm thinking sometimes

assasin is someone who kills for money

I think he's trying to say you missed an "s" in "assassin".

How far back does the holllow stock go now? To the very end where the orange shoulder rest is?

I think this was already answered by yahman1254, but it does draw attention to today's edit. A Stock overview section I played with yesterday.

Hopefully the springs will come in tomorrow and I'll finish this gun off. Or, at least, my version of it.

Man, I've seen non-refurbished revolutionary war muskets in better shape then that O.o

Good find, and good job fixing it.

I'm just wondering about the catch mechanism. Do you think it'd be possible to replicate in another gun? I ask because even with good internal pics, I can't wrap my mind around a 3D object in 2D space. I don't even get how it works.

In short, no. The tolerances for a lot of the parts are so tiny and at least one of them just floats there, if you tried to replicated it you'd end up with the same gun.

To best understand how this gun works, the best thing to do is think of a Recon. The plunger, boltsled, and cocking mechanisms are identical to a Recon. The only things that have changed are the trigger guards (that stop you from firing the gun at an inopportune moment) and the plunger catch (but only slightly to comply with the new guards).

What's probably most confusing you is what did me when I first started looking at it: the orange bar between the trigger and the catch. This is actually a trigger guard. The trigger guards are the most complex thing in this gun and a lot of what you see on the internals are simply trigger guards. The Raider uses a sort of floating guard bar that, when the gun is loaded and cocked, is held down and bridges the gap between the trigger and the catch. When it is not ready to fire, this bar just floats there, so you can pull the trigger but the plunger catch isnt moved.

... Sorry, I'm rambling.

My god, My aunt gave me that blanket for christmas at least 10 years ago.

On another note, it looks a bit more sturdy than the Recon, maybe its plunger won't break as easily.

And I have a couple questions, I'm assuming a normal LS/Recon clip will work with it, as the drum clip seems to be a normal clip with an extension on it, but will it work with the LS/Recon? It doesn't look like it'll work with the LS as its sides are thicker, and the drum might hit it, but it seems like it'll work with the recon, will it?

And I'd like a good look at its magazine anyway, could you post a couple pics of it? I'm a bit curious on how they put it together.

The clips and drums are totally interchangeable between all clipped guns.
I updated the first post with an overview

Updated first post with some minor things.

You mentioned that the recon spring is similarly sized, but stronger. Is it possible to replace the Raider's spring with a recon spring?

Yes. I tried this, but I'm getting a lot of fishtailing even after just taking out the ARs. I need to weight some streamlines (my stefans dont fight tight enough in the barrel) to get any true range enhancement measurements anymore.

How much range are you getting with yours after AR removal? Because mine gets just a little bit over AR removed recon range with AR removal. I think I bought a bad one...

Thanks
Finn

About another 10', roughly the same as a Recon. This isnt surprising, as the internals are pretty much identical in operation to that of a Recon.

That's one hell of a Pokemon blanket.

On another note, have you got a Recon on which you could put the stock attachment? I'd like to see how that looks.

Gotta catch 'em all!



My Recon is semi-disassembled, but it doesnt hurt the look. The stock is long enough that it actually make the Recon almost comfy.

Dang that priming bar looks weak! You should try to reinforce that thing before adding a stronger spring.

See RVMVTVProductions post.

If you really want to go at the ar's through that seam, I would suggest using pipe cutters in a similar manner as you would for a longshot.

Yeah, but I would be worried about the integrity of it after you reassemble it. Not to mention if it was just a little crooked, the entire gun wouldnt work anymore.

Where is the Target you bought this from? They aren't in mine yet...

They arent officially at mine either. You have to find a clerk that doesnt read the "Do not sell till Sept. 4th" line on the box.

Well, now I have something to do...

I believe you mean that the stock doesn't work on a 1st Gen (or something like that) Recon with the "ARMED" tube, since it seems the plunger tube cover is the same as the currently sold Recon.

Can you give us a quick overview on the strength of the metal priming bar, and how much space there is to reinforce it? It seems so... weak.

Oh that's right, new Recons have that plunger cover thing. I always forget about that because I've never seen one first hand.

There's not a huge amount of room to reinforce the priming bar without removing some of the screw holes in the shell. If you dont mind loosing some screws, there's ample room after a little dremeling. That said, the bar is very solid and sturdy. I can apply a fair amount of force before it even starts to flex, far more then what's needed to cock the stock gun. It's about 5/32-6/32" thick.

--

On another note, I got some springs from Ace, and am going to try to semi-double spring it using the same clever method as on the Recon (adding a spring in the stock).

Somewhere, a person on here said that you could simply pull apart the breech assembly and the AR's would pop out. Maybe theirs was a lemon, but did you/could you try this?

There are two seams on the breech with catches where it looks like you can pull it apart, but mine has small amount of glue in said seams that would make it very hard and overall not a good idea to pull apart.

I recently acquired a Raider at Target. Many of you probably know more then you care to about it already, so I’ll jump in and field questions as they come.

In the mean time, I’ve gone Raider happy

Price: $30 USD
Length: 21”
Weight: 3lb-ish fully loaded
Comfy rating: Very comfy to hold and fire
Stock ranges: 25’
Dart capacity: 35 round drum clip / or / 10 round clip
Attachments: 2 N-Strike rail systems and adjustable stock
Power: Spring
Rate of Fire: 35 rounds in 12 seconds
Firing modes: Manual or semi-auto



--== 35 Round Drum Overview ==--

I didn’t even think about interest in the drum clip till Arconious asked.

Pics:
Font:
http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2386.jpg

Back:
http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2388.jpg

Loaded:
http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2392.jpg

Slightly unloaded (so you can see the rotation):
http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2393.jpg

The drum is about 11” from the edge of the drum to the end of the clip.
Loaded, it weighs almost as much as the gun itself.
Uses a constant force spring to rotate (thanks pjotrkuh / Just Some Bob)

The black knob in the center is a jam release. It wiggles the entire mechanism. How effective it is, I have no idea as it’s never jammed (pretty good considering I’ve emptied all 35 rounds over 10 times already).

The drum fits nicely into the Recon. I don’t have a Longshot to attach it to, but it claims to fit on the box.

It actually feels a little weird on the Raider, because it mounts on the side and make it side heavy. However, the high rate of fire and relatively low range make it necessary. It does mount securely though, every bit as secure as a regular clip in a Recon. But if you want to use a regular clip, you can.

It feels a bit big for the Recon. I keep thinking I’m going to hit it with my hand when I cock it. It would probably fit well in a Longshot, but your boltsled will probably break before you get all 35 rounds through.

--== Stock Overview ==--

I know, a section for the stock, this is getting out of hand. But there are a couple things about the stock that I wanted to share.

Stock:
http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2412.jpg

Opened:
http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2409.jpg

Taken apart:
http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2411.jpg

It has four settings, with 1” between settings, only the last and full extension is actually worth using.

The stock is the same length as the Recon stock, about 10 ½” when fully extended.
Unlike the Recon stock, it’s very sturdy. You can actually lean into it without it bending.
It’s fully compatible with the Recon, but old style Recon’s “ARMED” bar wont fit inside because of a little wall about 4” back (easily fixed. See “Fixing” the Stock section later).

Because of the long hollow bar, the first thing I thought of was integrations. The bar is 1 ¼” inner diameter. More then enough for an Air Tech 2000 tank, a Secret Shot Pocket Blaster (Secret Strike), or, with a little work for the trigger, even a Nitefinder. Just... glue the stock in place so you don’t accidently collapse it and crush your integration.

--== Step 1: Disassembly ==--

The Raider does not have any plastic “welds” or clamp pieces, so there is no cutting involved in taking it apart.

If you assemble the Raider before opening it up, you’ll have to attach the clip holder. It snaps in and there’s no way to get it back off. Don’t worry though, it doesn’t hide any screws.



First remove the two screws on the back gray piece (stock clip and priming guard) and the five screws on the front priming handle. There’s no spring in the front handle, so nothing will jump out at you.



In no order, take out the remaining 14 screws on the main body.

A couple things may spring out (like the trigger, that isn’t held down by anything), but it wont be anything major.

--== Step 2: Internals! ==--

What a lot a people are waiting for... high-res internal pics! Due to their size, I’ll just post links.

Overall:

http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2355.jpg

Close up (at rest):

http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2356.jpg

Close up (cocked):

http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2358.jpg

Trigger relaxed:

http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2365.jpg

Trigger pulled:

http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2364.jpg

It’s very similar to the Recon, only not quite as complex and not NEARLY as hard to get back together.

It’s been a while since I’ve opened a Recon, but the spring appears to be roughly the same size, but weaker.

Compared to a Recon spring. Notice there isn’t much difference other then the Raider spring is shinier:

http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2381.jpg

Compared to a #49 Ace spring (Nitefinder replica):

http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2360.jpg

However, the plunger catch and trigger release are much stronger then most guns I’ve opened recently, making double springing a very real possibility with little if any reinforcement. Though, for the little extra range it might get, the wear on the parts would be high, so I’m not sure if it would be worth it or not depending on how you implement it.

--== Step 3: Air Restrictor Removal ==--

Now down to something real. Take out the four silver screws by the plunger.



With them gone, you should be able to lift the entire mechanism out of the gun. The air restrictor is just like the Recon, its in the plunger tube.



Grab a ½” wood boring drill bit and go to town. Drill it out till you can see straight through.



Reassemble the mechanism, using the internal pics as guides if need be.
Increases range by about 10’ with stock streamlines, though I’m noticing pretty good fishtailing, so if you were to use weighted darts you might get even more.

--== Step 4: Plugging a random hole ==--

As I was inspecting the boltsled/plunger assembly, I noticed a small hole in the side of the plunger tube.



I’m pretty sure Recons have this hole as well, and I looked for one on here earlier but I missed it.

Seal it with hot glue or some epoxy. Let it dry, and sand it down level as the dart clip has to slide over it.

--== Step 5: Priming Bar Reinforcement ==--

Thanks to RVMVTVProductions asking about the strength of the priming bar, I noticed that, while the bar itself is very strong and I don’t believe it to be in need of reinforcement, the little screw that holds it to the boltsled does.

Take the screw off.



Note all the void space in the chamber. Fill it up with your epoxy of choice

(hot glue would “probably” work, considering stock I don’t think there’s much a chance of this breaking, but with bumping into it constantly while messing with the internals, I wont take any chances. There’s no reason not to use epoxy)





REMEMBER that the end of the bar has to be facing away from the boltsled (see internal pics). Screw it back down and let it sit.

--== Step 6: Cushioning the Plunger ==--

One of the first things you’ll notice is the loud plunger head smashing into plastic. Once you take out the air restrictors, it’ll make you grit your teeth just waiting for something to snap.

Best way to fix this is to cushion the plunger with a small ring of foam. Now, the plunger coming all the way down against the seal is important to the reloading mechanism, so the foam has be very thin and fairly firm.

I still have my Wayne Tech Tri-Fire Blaster darts sitting around, and they are perfect size and density. Cut it to size and carefully glue it just above the o-ring.



--== Step 7: Sound Reduction ==--

Even with foam on the plunger, there’s a fair amount of rattling and vibrations. Given the range of the gun, sneaking up on people is going to be pretty important as you’re not hitting them from a distance.

Cut up your favorite foam backer rod and glue it to anything that doesn’t move.





--== Step 8: Removing the Priming Lock ==--

This is totally Echnalaid doing. Removing this lock will allow you to load the gun even if it’s already cocked.

Before removing this, after you cock it, you cant move the front handle until you fire it, meaning if you cock it without loading a dart, you have to fire it before re-priming it.

Once you remove this, you can re-load a dart even after cocking it. There’s no worry about breaking anything by accidentally pulling the trigger either, as you cant pull the trigger when the boltsled breech is open.

Simply remove the piece circled here:

http://img44.imagesh...06/img2400c.jpg

Take out the screws, and it supposedly just falls out.

--== Step 9: “Fixing” the Stock ==--

The stock is one of my most favorite parts of this gun. What’s wrong with the stock? It has this little wall partway back that blocks the “ARMED” bar on old style Recons (like mine ). It also prevents the clever double springing method by DeceitfulSteve.

Fixing this is very simple. Get a 1” wood boring drill bit, rev it up and shove it down the stock’s shaft.

I don’t have a “before” pic (thought I did, but I cant find it), so here’s the after at least:



--== Step 10: Double Springing ==--

I owe this section to DeceitfulSteve’s method used on the Recon. Alright, my final mod on this gun. At first, I was thinking +Bow spring, but it was way too hard. I couldn’t even use it with the Recon (which has more torque in the cocking).

Finally settled on a Ace #49 spring (or Nitefinder spring).

Cut a small piece of ¾” PVC and sand down the center till you can easily fit the spring inside. Put a PVC end cap on one side to seal it (I used a reducer, since it’s what I had on hand). Sand the entire thing down till it fits snuggly inside the stock.

http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2413.jpg

Push the entire thing into the stock all the way to the wall that we sanded out.

http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2418.jpg

Cut a hole in the back of the plunger guard on the Raider till it’s pretty much smooth with the side (so the spring doesn’t get hung up).

http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2416.jpg

Put the stock back together, put your spring inside (you can glue it if you want), and snap it onto the back!

This should increase ranges 10-15’ with Streamlines.
Or at least it did mine.


---

Add some awesome LEDs on the front, and a switch on the handle,

http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2420.jpg

and I’ve done all I can think of with this gun.

My final thoughts on this gun is it would be a good all-round weapon, for rounds that you’re not quite sure what you’re getting yourself into. It doesn’t have much range, but enough to get by; isn’t horribly accurate, but it can be fired very, very quickly and in a very controlled fashion; and it’s fast to reload (assuming you have another clip pre-loaded).


Questions? Comments? Flames? Witty one liners?

Raider CS-35 Internals:

Overall:

http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2355.jpg

Close up (at rest):

http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2356.jpg

Close up (cocked):

http://i53.photobuck...er/IMG_2358.jpg

A 1" female-female threaded PVC coupler fits almost perfectly over top of the threads on the Titan tank. A little epoxy to be sure, and from there, using a series of bushings, you can fit on any barrel for any sized ammo you want.

Micros: ½” CPVC
Arrows: ½” PVC
Balls: 1 ¼” slip-slip PVC coupler
Rocket: 3/4" male threaded (fits inside the threads on the stock barrel)

Least, that's what I use for all of my Titans.

Tremble in fright of my newest creation!

HELLO KITTY! *<









Complete with Hello Kitty stickers (each proven to increase range 10' per), Ace #49 spring replacement, CPVC couplered barrel w/ spare barrel and holder, and a deadly 5mm pink LED!

Wait--are you sure about those sizes of PVC? My CPVC definitely doesn't fit in 1/2" PVC as if in a coupler.

He's probably using thinwall and doesnt know it. There are plenty of people that use thinwall CPVC to nest in PVC (or maybe the other way around? I forget).

Sorry it's been a few days.

These can be found usually with the Nerf stuff. However, they seem to be clearanceing them out, so you might try the clearance section if your store has one.

And for what took so long: I finally got a video!

I keep laughing at how many people had the same bed sheets as me when I was a child.

But did you have a Lego Maniac pillow case?! *dun dun*

And, let me get this right, the elbow if so you can blow down the barrel easier to advance another dart?

Yep. Blowing on the elbow pushes the next dart into the barrel.

Could you put up pics of it primed and such?

In the last picture it's primed. The front handle is pulled back and there is a dart in the barrel (but, the barrel being opaque, you cant see it obviously). Fired, it looks exactly the same only the front handle is pushed forward.

Let me see if I can get a cheezy paint diagram up tomorrow.

EDIT: Digram in first post.

Thanks everyone.

Get a video please! Sounds awesome.

I will try tomorrow.

Try and find a way that you can load in like 3 Zoom o balls and have them advance as you shoot kind of like a
pump action shotgun.

That's what my dad said. But considering the priming time large air tanks like the Titan have anyway, it wouldnt be too much extra time to simply load one ball at a time. That said, the best chance of something like this working while keeping it simple is having a bigger lip on the end of the barrel or using a large O-ring (like the Reactor). I've never really tried anything yet, as I'm pretty happy with it as is, but I'll see about monkeying with it this week.

So, I was at TRU yesterday and saw this Marshmallow Shooter on sale for $12. I figured what the heck, if anything I could use it to actually shoot marshmallows.

It ended up being the simplest, yet most reliable and sturdy secondary I’ve ever built.

Here is the gun stock:



The whole thing is powered by the forward handle. Ram it forward to fire, and pull it back to prime. The white PETG looking tube is where you load the marshmallow, it acts like a clip.

When you’re using marshmallows, it actually primes itself through suction, as the front barrel has a check valve that only lets air out and the end of the PETG has a check valve that only lets air in, sucking the next marshmallow into the barrel with the priming stroke. This doesn’t work with stefans, as they don’t fit tight enough and they are too heavy, but there are other ways to make it work...

The plunger head has an AIR TIGHT seal, almost unheard of stock anymore. You can literally plug the barrel and the end of PETG and you cannot move the plunger at all.

Now, we need to harness this power into NERF POWER!

First thing, disassemble it. The barrel comes off with a twist, and the PETG pops straight up (it comes off pretty hard).



There is a small hole at the bottom of the where the barrel sat. This is where the air comes up from.



CAREFULLY surround it in superglue and sit an O-ring on it. Just about any size would probably work, but I happened to have some #8 (9/16” OD x 3/8” ID x 3/32”) O-rings from my AT1k’s still lurking about.



Once that dries, sand out the red hole in the back that connects to the PETG. You want the hole just big enough to fit a Stefan in smoothly, without a lot of extra space so it cant wiggle.





Next, get your ½” CPVC coupler. The ones from Ace work better, as they are perfectly round and straight. I’ve noticed the ones that the Lowes’ near me sell are bowed in the center.

Drill a hole in the bottom of the coupler that lines up with your O-ring inside the gun. You’ll have to guess here, and guess well. Use another O-ring of the same size (they come in freaking 20 packs after all) to measure. The bigger you can make this hole, the better, but too big and it wont seal properly over the O-ring.

Mine’s probably a little under-sized but it works.



Put some hot glue on the end of the coupler and slide it up against the back of the chamber, lining it up with the red hole, but at the same time pushing down on the O-ring. Give it 30 or so seconds to dry while pushing back and down on it. It’s very fragile right now, so I couldn’t get a picture.

Once it’s dry, fill the gap around the front with as much hot glue as you can.



Now for the clip. Did I mention this has an 8-10 round (highly dependent on the size of your darts) clip? Well I did now. For the clip to work, you have to blow into the PETG to force the next dart into the barrel. However, as the PETG is positioned right now, it’s really hard to do so.

To fix this, take the PETG and superglue/epoxy a ½” CPVC elbow on the end. For this to fit on the gun, you’ll have to sand down that little nub on the very back end.

When you snap the clip on, be sure to push forward on it a little. It’ll usually go in an extra ¼” or so, and that makes a huge difference in terms of seals.



Put a ½” CPVC barrel on the front end and that’s it!



Ranges are very hard to pin. I have never seen a gun so drastically affected by dart weight, length, fit, and especially barrel length. The tighter the fit and the longer the barrel, the more pressure is built up and therefore the farther the dart will go.

What I can say is that using a 6” barrel I had on hand it gets pretty consistent 40-50” with my personal “top grade” stefans. I theorize it might get a little more with a longer barrel, but I dont have enough material right now to test it. Combine this with being able to put out 10ish rounds in a matter of seconds, and easy reloading, I reiterate that this is a solid secondary.... just don’t pass out from asphyxiation priming it....

If you think the clip is too much trouble, it works just as well without it. Use it as an ammo holder.


EDIT: Since there seems to be a little bit of confusion, I made a cheesy diagram of how the airflow of this gun works.



1) Back handle
2) Front handle
3) Plunger, connected directly to the front handle
4) Plunger tube
5) O-ring I installed
6) PETG clip
7) Little red ring the PETG sits in
8) CPVC coupler
9) CPVC barrel

I forgot the elbow at the end of the PETG, but it’s not really important.

Airflow is thus:



The air is forced forward as you push the front handle forward down the plunger tube. The PETG clip has a check valve on the end that wont let air out, so the only way out is through the CPVC barrel.

On the “priming” stroke



Air is sucked back in from both the CPVC barrel and the PETG clip.

The stock gun had a check valve on the barrel that didn’t allow air in, so all the air would be sucked through the PETG clip, which would force the next marshmallow into the barrel. There is no good way to preserve this all-in-one action once converted to stefans.

However, by simply blowing on the end of the PETG clip...





We can “manually” force the next dart into the barrel, regardless of where the plunger is in the plunger tube.

This is just a simple barrel, but it's really fun.

I was out shopping yesterday (and found a variable medley of stuff, some of which you may see soon) and found these Zoom-o refill packs for $1 per at Walmart.
After playing with them, I found they fit quite nicely into the Titan's orange rocket barrel.

A very simple mod. All you need is:
Titan barrel
A gun with a large airtank that the barrel fits on

Cut out the baffling AR at the end of the barrel, but leave a small lip around the edge so it catches the balls. Load in up to 5 balls and fire.



When fired, it shoots the balls in a staggered fashion, about half a second behind each other. This allows you to swing the barrel when firing to create a spread of fire.

Ranges, from a Titan @ 60psi are about 25', not great, but it's a shotgun. Arched, this would be excellent to rain down foam death at people behind small walls.

I really want to do this, from when I first saw it a while back. I would do a Nite-Mav mod as well to increase power.

What happened to the original post, with the blueprints for the plastic cut-outs? I cant seem to find it anywhere.

EDIT: Nevermind. Thanks to White Moonlight remembering the name of the poster, I found it. To Walmart!

http://www.ark-plas.com/index.asp

Everyone here seems to use McMaster, but I dont much care for their site. I came across Ark-Plas when searching for check valves. I used their sample order to complete the Black Tri-Star.

The downside is ordering from them is literally factory direct, so they dont deal with small orders. You have to order a $50 minimum. But, they do have a large range of products, some of which I've never seen anywhere else (like the re-sizing check valves).

I'll stop before I sound too much like an infomercial.
Just thought I'd gather some opinions.

Well I suppose that answers that.
Thanks everyone.

No o-ring?
Huh. On ever barrel mod I've seen for the 2k they always stress "DONT LOSE THIS O-RING!"
I just assumed it was vital to getting a good seal.

Where is this o-ring located? I've had my 2k open so much I'm sick of those stupid screws and don't know where it is you're talking about.

I cant hold it open and take the picture at the same time, but it seals the rotary mechanism to the barrels.

You put the adhesive under the O-ring, not on top of it. Try superglue. Be very conservative and careful when applying it.

Oh. That could work.
I'm not going to be working on it till tomorrowish, so I'll wait and see if anyone has any non-potentially-destructive ways first, but yeah.

But dont adhesives make rubber not rubbery?
Plus the turret o-ring would be really hard to reach with any sort of glue.

So, I've had these two AirTech 2000 turrets sitting around for awhile. I finally decided to use them for something, but I cant get the o-ring to stay in. I can get it seated, but every time I rotate the barrels it gets caught and jams/falls out.

How do I get it to stay in?

I've searched around, and couldnt find anything. I suppose I could have missed it.

Haha, looks KINDA cool, but like if you can just saw off the handle and replace it with a wooden handle, and make it around about.... let's say..? at a 100 degree angle from the trigger, then itd be easier to hold as a sword let alone a gun so its more like a REAL gunblade

Exactly what I was thinking.
I was also thinking of using a Maverick instead.
I sense a new project.

Well, my dad bought one. (weird he'd buy this for $10 on clearance but not a Nitefinder for $7)
Anyway, I like the flywheel. I'm thinking if you take out and overclock the flywheel, you might be able to use it for something.

Too busy now, but in a couple weeks I'm sure I'll come up with something interesting