Hey Badger. Something in your first post caught my attention and I wanted to discuss. You stated that hot glue wouldn't be a good thing to use in this application. And tho by rule I do aggree with you 100% working with wires should always be done properly with the correct tools. I'm thinking that hot glue could possibly be a viable tool in a pinch. Tho I'm not familar with hot glues resistance to the actual electrical current (I'm gonna look for my fluke and checking this when I get a chance). So long as the joint itself doesn't heat up too much Id think that it should work in low current applications. A nice TIGHT wrapping of the bare wires toghether would be just as good as a wire nut. A couple wraps of etape to keep it from shorting on anything and then a gratious ammount of hot glue to hold it all in place. This MIGHT just work if there is no other options and the job can't be put off.
Tho for anyone that finds themself working with wiring a lot I would highly reccomend dropping the cash on a decent butane soldering iron and some heat shrink tubing. The heat vent of the iron works great on the HS tubing.

Why are you posting bad info? hot glue is not a good idea, considering hotglue can become soft at temps around what a hair dryer can provide. This will simply lead to problems later. if you are looking for a temp fix, use etape. Just because a person is in a pinch isn't an excuse to do things poorly. why don't you tell him to just hold the wires with his fingers if he doesn't have tape? i'm not a mod, but please don't post crap.

hey CS how does this formula work? Isn't there other varible here that include how tight the barrel is around the dart, and how fast the spring expands (springers) or how fast air is released (air tankers)?
Isn't the target barrel length basically the point where the force of the expanding air can nolonger exert a force on the dart? any longer would result in slowing down velocity. I just don't know how this formula can work?

Clearly I'm not the only one that think the recon is ot the best blaster. I already have a blaster with some range to it. it was a $12 BBBB, add $5 for brass and couplers you get the picture. I agree with you that the recon's biggest advantage is the clip system.
Oberon, I'm not against the recon, trust me I have one, and I see potential, but you have to admit it definately needs work, but I don't think the stock mod is the way to go because for me atleast it's a side arm.

I do like the recon, I'm working on a mod for it, hopefully it will make the recon "more" respectable. The mav comment may have been a little harsh on the recon.

I agree that the extra clip slot on the stock is shite, that's what tactical vests are for. Besides my stock is cut down and I wouldn't be able to grip it if the clip slot was in use.

I don't know, comparing the recon to the mav seems about right. Recon defonately has the advantage as it has a clip. with the stock as a primary sized blaster, it really doesn't compare to the LS. You can get 60 feet flat, but you'll probably only be able to hit ankles...

Well apparently my Mom owes me $30 and I'm going to spend it on Nerf. So I thought I would either get 3 spiderman sets or a DTG set( I know this isn't 30 dollars but I would be willing to spend $10 more) or should I get something else entirely? I'm probably going to integrate whichever one I get into my LS.

the spiderman set is so cheap right now it's simply the best value of the two.

I believe CS is talking about an all-out mod, including bolt replacement and the like, something that is far from easy for someone new to modding. Basic LS modding isn't too bad.

~ompa

Well Even replacing the bolt/breech with angel breech isn't that hard if you have the tools. FA_24's breech write up is very good and lay's out the steps well.

Nice, your mods are getting better. Quick and painless. Look into a pvc coupler beside the pvc pipes next time you go. I think they are like $1.00, then you can have a removable barrel for storage. May also make it more durable as compared to the tape. However the way you made it is pretty good considering how quick it is. 160 feet is very good for stock pressures.

I think it's a good mod, and believe me, it is easier than you think to hit someone with an angled shot. Also, the paintjob is more bitchin' than the Camarro my parents drove up for me from the Bahamas (been listening to the Dead Milkmen ).

I agree about the paintjob. It's sick. Way better than what I did to mine, before I sold it to some nerd on ebay who thought that it looked like a Halo battle rifle. I agree with badger though. Don't post angled ranges, and always get someone else to hold the camere and show yourslf shooting from the front or the side, to make sure that your angles are good. PS. A bit off topic.. Green Buckshot.. Glad you used my quote. It seriously does look like one though. They were prehistoric rubber and wood literal douchebags (yes the word has more than one meaning, the other is a do-it-yourself abortion/morning after, my mom is a gynaecologist)

Awesome paint job ice. I really think it's one of the better ones.

From the pic of your reinforced bolt sled, are you just using the putty stuff to reinforce it? The putty itself does not have very high tensile strength or resistance against stress, If you bonded pieces of metal to it, the sled maybe more reinforced. I didn't have the chance to watch the vid so I didn't see if you did more things.

Mystefan, ummm I think you are mis quoting your mom, a douche bag is actually the bag that holds water or solution for an apparatus that is involved in cleaning body cavities. a Douche can be used in the lower female reproductive organs or for other cavities. It has little to do with "do it your self abortion" or the morning after pill. If your mom is a gyne you should go ask her if that's right...

excellent mods 'ofAll... I was going to say that a 1/2 inch wood drill bit makes removing the AR pretty easy, but the way you used a piece of brass which could be used as a tighter section of the barrel is pretty interesting.
If memory serves me the person that made the NF/recon actually had to cut and bondo the shell with part of the NF shell. I don't remember how I turned out though. I really hope ompa can make a good solution to the plunger, because it is the part holding back the recon. Good luck ompa!

Sorry for the comment about Ice, I personally don't know him but there seemed to be a lot of misinformation on the thread which could mess up a beginner modder's brand new gun. I neither know or support Ice, but his claim on this post of 100 feet is quite plausible, so I really didn't post anything off topic.

As for Stephen, I know you said you have a "simple mod" or a "beginner mod" but you mod isn't that good, or that original, no offence. First off you dont' have to open the gun to cut the orange tip off the barrel, careful use with an exacto knige cutting around the glued edges will take it off easily enough.

Second, the inner barrel of the BBBB is too large for a Micro which is about ~12-13 mm. The dart sliding to the bottom of the barrel is evidence that it is too lose. This is the reason you are getting 50 something feet. What you want is to have a barrel which will hold the dart snuggly. It should ot move around in the barrel and will require a push to get in. I won't get into length, but it has been suggested about 12 inches is ok.

If your darts are snug, at max pressure (untill it starts venting air), you will atleast have a cardboard piercing gun. ohh it will also easily dent drywall so becareful.

Stephen again this is not against you, take it as a pointer as to where you can go with this gun. You said you are a beginner modder, so what you learn from this gun will transfer easily to other guns. ie good barrel selection.

I personally started where you were, and it's not a bad start. in the end I have a coupled BBBB that has a telescoping brass barrel, about 2 inches of 17/32 brass, then 10 inches of 9/16. (depends on dart, may not work for you) I think you can do better, and if I did it again I would use PETG with CPVC on the outside, maybe a 17/32 section on the inside. CPVC is seriously durable and PETG is cheap.

If you find a better way or have questions post it up or PM me. I'm not the pro on here but I will help if I know the answer. Ohh I almost forgot, what is the goal for the gun? it is important because my BBBB sits in my room collecting dust, no one I know whats to nerf against it because it hurts at close range, and I feel bad for hurting someone. Also I really don't want to put more dents in my drywall.

[quote name='nerfboi' date='Apr 9 2008, 10:11 AM' post='150204']

[/quote]
My greatest regret is buying the Recon. It sucked period.
[/quote]


Me too. I got mine on sale for $15, and I wish I could get that back.

Lay off Ice.

I respect him and all, but i think some of his ranges are bs.

Anyways, good job SC

What is wrong with his ranges? he said 100 feet not a 1000 feet.. It's a BBBB? Honestly you need a different barrel if you can't clear 90 feet with a stefan. Ohh done with an unplugged pump.

As for the OP, please go to home depot and pick up a coupler. It will make reloading easier.

Yeah sorry if i came off as a dick there donz, its late here and i'm tired.
I'll look tomorrow.

No problem... Good luck with the single. With the larger volume of the LS, you can definately make this thing work well.

Alright, good. Sorry for asking a stupid question, then. I've just never seen it on here and I always see posts in which people are saying things like, "Yeah, it sucks but dremel out the air restrictor and it took me like 2 hours!" instead of, "Yeah, it's easy. Just drill through the AR. It took me about 10 seconds."

Anyway, thanks for verifying this.

It's been covered, use a 1/2 inch wood drill bit, and power drill. Takes 20 seconds and takes out the restrictor as a whole, as well as providing smooth low restriction air passage.

Before you go singling a good LS

1) Its not working.
2) i already have a perfectly good, 60'+, cilpped ls
3) i want a one shot, long distance weapon.

It's up to you really.. I only posted that because you asked before as to if the loss of ROF was worth it.

If you are set on a singled LS, consider the fact that the is still primed via the sled, which is the weakest part, and you should reinforce this. Besides this fact the LS is an Ok canidate to make a long range weapon, as it is able to hold 2 springs. A combo of LS spring around an ACE spring would be cool. However you might have to work out something becaus the ACE spring is a bit short. Maybe the addition of a part of a second acespring might work as this spring holds on to the plunger shaft.

The angel breech also is complicated to make and costs about as much as another LS.

I agree there. you need 4 pieces of brass, right there about $20. However I think it only requires less than 6 inches of the three sizes to you might be able to make a second... It is up to you entirely.

Before you go singling a good LS, why don't you consider the angel breech? If done properly it will have near the range of a singled LS (baring any leaks). Also you don't need the dart tooth, which solves you problem with that.

Also my LS has a BBB spring (no LS spring). The BBB spring works well, and it is not hard to cock the gun.

It is also angel breached.

Is the dart fishtailing? Did you remove the AR's? What type of dart was it?

No fishtailing, and no AR removal.
I used a Recon streamline.
No, I don't have the front gun attached either.


I also will say that the darts never wanted to stay in the gun, they kept falling out if I ever pointed the gun down.

What about that part? You said that the dart doesnt like to stay in the barrel, it would always fall out if it goes upside down.

Ok the LS is not all that complicated. If the dart is falling out, it is most likely 2 problems. A) your dart is too small, it was crushed or something (assuming your barrel part of the breach is stock) 2) your dart tooth mechanism is not working, the dart is being push out instead of loaded into the breech. It's unlikely to be anything else because you gun would jam if the dart toothe was working and the dart was not loading.
Hope thig helps.

Yeah if shipping is still like 5 dollars to the U.S.

Hmm... with gas prices so damn high it will cost less at that price. Especially if you live in another town.

This is also avalible in stores in Canada!

A well-modded Titan can reach 220 feet = 73 yards. That is not long enough to use a zoom. At the most, a sight with simple crosshairs might be useful. At that point, you're better off using a simple "iron" sight, or simply looking down your accessory rail. Of course, that's really only telling you where the gun is pointing. All nerf guns have varying degrees of accuracy. A well-modded one may have very consistent trajectories, but those trajectories will be distinctly curved. At the ranges you're working with, you might as well just eyeball it.

Now, many people do use lasers. This is because lasers are awesome. You can't go wrong with lasers, as long as you keep in mind that if you're close enough for the laser to point at more or less the hit location, a half-blind monkey could point the gun in the right direction anyway.

I confess that I do have a red dot sight for my Longshot. This is because I like it. It's hardly more effective than just looking down the rail.

Whose titan reachs 220 feet and what are they shooting? I also have a red dot sight, looks cool but it's heavy and useless. The worst $25 dollars I have spent on nerf so far. not to say I have made only good purchases, but it's really that useless. You could probably throw it at a stray if it attacked you at the park!

Do you mean the guns shell is broken, or the inards? If it is the latter, you might be able to make a NiteMav v2, depending on what parts are broken.

I think this is a good idea but you also realize you will be losing the some range in exchange for 6 shots. You have to make sure the rotation mechanism is in good shape.

If the gun is basically stock, the thing that went is probably the pullback bar. In which case there have been a few good ways to repair.

Ohh messing with the clip may decrease range and reliability, just a heads up.

I have never had any problems where I needed to put on metal on my clips dart advancing platform.

I think because your mod shoots stefans, it doesn't open all the way to the end of the clip. To make the gun shoot a stock dart, the breech has to open almost the full length of the clip. The point where the breech get's stuck on the platform is at the angle/ramp part. Maybe you have a different set up, but the brass doesn't want to slide over plastic easily, and ends up digging into the plastic. This is after sanding and deburring the lip. I was going to put a small angle at the end to see if it would help, but because the breech needs to open so wide, I can't cut much more or risk the brass not sealing over each other.

Is there an alternative to this mod to make it fit stock streamlines?

Yes, I just made my angel-style breech shoot stock streamlines. Unfortunately the gun can not shoot the CaptainSlug style stefan (the ones with the felt) as the felt gets stuck in the tightening rings and the dart becomes crushed. I have tried using looser rings but then the barrel is too loose for stock darts.

Ohh you have to mod the clip with a piece of metal. Glue the metal on the plastic ramp which moves up and down. The brass from the breech will get stuck on the plastic.

I can do a write up next week if you don't get it.

One stange thing it that the MAv seems to be one of the most popular nerf guns out there, good evidence is the number of "why does my mav not work?" threads over at NerfHQ. However most nerfer's on this board agree that the mav has limited potential. Popularity is not a good judgement of "legend ness".

Because of the recon inverted plunger design, I also think this will reduce it's future legacy. As stated BBB seems to be a decent choice, of course that gun has been around for a long time (re released).

To venom:

I didn't actually buy any, I just couldn't find any.

To OfAllTheNerf:

I tried going to ACE for brass, but I couldn't find any. It was all copper, and the brass that was there wasn't barrel size.

So has anyone tried using Mcmaster brass? I'm going to get that if anybody has tried it and it works, because I don't want to waste money if I order it and it doesn't work.

Have you tried ny hobby/modeling stores? The brand is K&S engineering. The brass they have will telescope over each smaller size so it is possible to make tight fitting breeches. The will also hold you darts nice and tight. However it will cost you about 3-5 dollars a foot depending on size. May cost less if you purchased in bulk packages.


Some people on here have use mcmaster brass.

Why is everyone flaming this guy?

Because he's a tad overproductive, upsells too much, and for the first two weeks his post quality was terrible.

My Rev.1 kits had some breakages on the solvent joints, but there are no reports of ANY Rev.3 kits breaking. It's pretty freakishly hard to break 1/4" polycarbonate sheets.
I stand by the statement that my current kit design will outlast any Longshot. No matter what kind of retardedly huge spring you try to put in it.

Ohh yeah, i totally agree that the fore grip will out last many longshots. With the big springs i thought the handle of the longshot might snap off so i was basically cocking the gun with the stock against my chest. This made the ROF much slower than need be. Ohh I'm sure after a few more shots the bolt will snap, or the trigger plate will be destroyed.

Dont get me wrong, I'm completely satisfied with the foregrip, and I would recommend it to anyone looking for a front grip setup. Rof is much faster with the front grip and a NF spring works really well. I am going to put the BBB spring in to see, but I need to find a replacement spring for the BBB before I go ripping into a perfectally good gun.

Why is everyone flaming this guy? his mod is ok. Ice your mod is really cheap and I'm sure if you spend more money it would hold up better. People talk smack about how your mod won't hold up to a heavier spring (which I also doubt will in current state). However with some copper tubeing, and the right bracing such copper pipe brackets ($0.25 each) it would work well.

Honestly, on my LS i have tried, NF spring, the ace hardware spring and the home depot spring. I also have the CS foregrip. The fore grip doesn't handle the last 2 springs well with out reinforcement. But to be fair, I don't know if the bolt sled or the fore grip will give out first.

Ice i think your mod definately has potential.

All right, I finally got the problem fixed, after a much longer period of time than was intended andmany, many more severe cock-ups than I care to relate here.

I used the boiling method, the hair dryer, my mom's paper embossing gun (my new sworn enemy), x-acto knives, and lots of time and profanity.

Thanks to all. I now request lockage.

LOCK PLEASE

Yeah!!! that's the first person I helped as a member of the forum.

From my noob observations, by you assuming that friction is zero almost makes your calculations completely useless. Some obvious problems include not accounting for friction on the dart which you used to estimate the force needed to push the dart. The inability ot have numbers for this will make further calculations inaccurate. Second you also assume that this nerf machine is 100% efficient, which could not possible be further the truth. due to friction of moving parts(and there are losts of them), I won't speuclate on efficiency but I assume 30% is probably high.

However the vulcan isn't released yet, and I guess everyone on here can sling a little BS.

I don't quite understand what you are ahveing problems with exactally, but if it is just hot glue, use a hair dryer and slowly heat up the plastic. The glue will become soft and then you can pull it out. Go slowly but I doubt a hair drier is hot enough to melt plastic. but go slow just in case and at your own risk.

I have remelted the tips of some of my stefans with the hair dryer on low heat.

Sorry.

Since this is still a topic of discussion (dispite it's age) From my personal experience you also have to consider who you are playing with. When i fist started, like a couple of months ago, I went a bought a big blast because they'er cheap and have crazy range and decent accuracy. I put a brass barrel and it is as accurate as stefans and moded streamlines can be. However one I showed my cousins that it easily goes through cardboard, dents damages drywall and still has an unplugged valve they don't want to go against it, and I understand why. Now I basically have and pretty cool gun sitting beside my bed.
I ended up buying a LS like they had and i haven't looked back since.

The air chanber does not look that big. I assume paintballs have very different firing characteristics when compared to a foam dart. The first link says 190 FPS while the second says 129fps, but that is with paintballs and BB's, none the less, there could be potential for this gun.

Ohh and $10 bucks just for the red dot scope is not bad, however I doubt those are effective for a dart gun

is the BBB too powerful to have such a short barrel? What i mean is does the dart come out of the barrel wobbly or fluttering?
Another suggestion is maybe you guys can pick up a pack of streamlines, in which case you couls use the longer barrel. If not, do what they said.

[quote name='NerfGnome' date='Feb 12 2008, 03:33 PM' post='139762']
[/quote]
Thats not what i meant; I have the stock chains, and I nested CPVC (now its PETG) into the stock chain barrels, using e-tape as support (wrapping e-tape around the PETG). Long story short, I'm modifying the chains, not replacing them.
[/quote]

Ohh, mis understood. sorry,

How could you make your own Carbon Fiber barrels?

I'd like to try it if it doesn't involve too many solvents.

Probably really hard to do without the proper machinery. I saw a special about carbon fiber on the show "How it's Made" and it looked extremely complicated with all the layers.

Making Cf uses some resins... I forget it's been a long time since I read up on it, but definately possible in a garage with a ventelator. Some of the resins are extremely toxic, which is one of the reasons i never attempted this. Ohh this is also the wet lay method. It's pretty much "glueing" Cf fabric together, it probably has 1/2 the strength of properly made CF. If you look at some of the older CF Hoods, and even some from cheaper companies, yo notice it's nothing more than a Fiverglass skeleton with the CF fabric on top. This is the skimpy way of making it look CF.

"How it's made" shows how they make CF parts for things like the Maclaren F1. They use CF sheets that already have resin in it. they stach sheets of CF and bake it under pressure, in an autoclave(?). Anyways this process makes the CF super strong, as the resin is evenly distrubuted through the whole piece. Not many places have this type of equipment so that is my I asked.

I don't think these carbon fiber tubes will unravel. CF is held together with resins. On thing I'd like to know is if these tubes are the wet laid or dry laid, if they are vaccuum and pressure bonded? If theya re wet laid, You can make CF tubes at your house, you can even make vaccum formed ones. Also some "carbon fiber" products have a fiberglass skeleton, and the Cf is just wrapped aroung for look. I can't get a clear pick of the inside to see what it is.

Also, why would anyone thing CF has less friction that say PETG? The CF is under a layer of resin so i don't think it would make a difference, you are not actually touching bare CF, ie the strands. I think I have seen kevlar stuff, which is similar to CF but has colour and also cheaper!

My first nerf gun was the NB-1 missle launcher!. I still have it somewhere. i Also had the doublecrossbow, black edition which is nowhere as cool as the crossbow. Kind of misleading name.

I thin you problem is in the chains, and not the plunger. Take the chain off and fire a shot to see if it will push air. I most likely will.

when you attached the cpvc to the base of the chin you have to make sure bno glue if on the outside of the tube. The base of the chain is supposed to slide through the grove on the top cover and if it doesn't go through smoothly, the timing of the chain and the release of the plunger will be off, and result in no firing. Trim the glue around each tube.

ohh just remembered, if the tube is not exactally the same size as the rotation piece, you will have to make the tubes thicker.

You want to try and make the chains as close to stock as possible dimensions as possible. I would have suggested that you put tubes inside the stock chains but I think that is too late now.

Ranges
1 43'
2 46'
3 49'
4 47'
5 50'
6 48'

Are those ranges flat or angled? Those are really good for a stock spring. I did the penny mod, straw mod, and the drop out clip and my ranges are barely farther than stock. That is compared side by side with my stock one. Maybe it's time for a barrel after I get the slider fixed.

Ohh, In my opinion don't use brass, 5 bucks worth of brass can be better used elsewhere. I doubt it will shoot much farther than seven of Nine, the gun simply doesn't push that much air.