Here's a pic of everyone you'll need to complete this mod, plus a Recon (not pictured).
PLEASE DONT POST UNTIL IT IS DONE. THERE WILL BE A 'FINAL PRODUCT' PICTURE AT THE END.

Specifics,
-4 ½” of ½” PVC
-1” PVC end cap
-Epoxy putty
Here’s an internal photo of the cut of stock.

Now, onto the mod. Unscrew it, and be sure to get these ones:


Bitch to open up, bitch to get back together. Internals.

Each side of the cocking handle is attached to the apropriate side of the shell, and are held on by screws which you can probably see in the picture. Now take out the bolt and bolt sled.

Cut at the line.

Now take your dremel/drill and drill out the ARs from the longer piece.

Cut a 1” piece of 17/32” brass, and begin sanding the AR-half until it fits. Goop it in.

Now sand out the other side, and then goop the whole thing together.

To make sure it’s going to work, try sliding it into an LS/Recon clip. If it slides without trouble it’ll do.

That piece of brass isn’t only acting as a pseudo-coupler, it will also help build up pressure if a dart gets pushed in. But we have to get the dart to push in far enough. Cut along the sharpie.

Doing this pushes the dart tooth down later, thus allowing the dart to be pushed that much further in. Sure, it’s not much, but it’s a plus. You could also cut further, but I’m not going to risk ruining the gun. After cutting:

Now lets start increasing power. First, wrap some e-tape around the plunger tube, as so (it should be fairly thick).

Then use an exacto knife to cut it down to 1/8”.

Go get the end cap. Putty in a ¾” brass stub (I used ½”). This isn’t completely necessary, but reduces the chances of the additional spring getting scrunched up if it’s small.


Now Get the black piece which when around the end of the gun, and your 1” PVC. Rough end of each up.

Stick the PVC onto the black piece with some putty. Avoid putting putty over the screw holes. IF you do get some over the screw holes drill it out carefully. This putty gets HARD really fast. It’s like rock after about 30 minutes. (Picture is with the end cap on).

Be sure to leave the hole the end clean of putty, if you have any inside it clean it out with an exacto knife.


Now grab your cut off stock and the end cap. Rough up the ends of each.

Now putty them together.

Let the putty dry, and then put the gun back together. While you’re replacing everything make sure to get this hole in the bolt sled on the spoke on the cocking handle.

Finished internals.

Looks pretty much the same on the outside as it did stock.

Now grab the black end piece with the PVC on it, and screw it onto the back. Try not to strip the screws, as that would make it impossible to open up again (without drilling them out, which would render the stock mod useless).

Now all you have to do is place a spring in the back and put the end cap on (the stock part). Depending on the strength of your spring you might need to glue the end cap on, which you probably should anyways. I haven’t glued it on just yet, incase I decide to make it removable etc.
A picture with a variety of springs. I’m using the largest one, which I found on a windowsill at the vets’. It’s pretty strong, and you have to compress it a good three inches to fit it inside the stock.



Finished product. Don’t worry, the duct tape isn’t permanent, just until I know which spring I want exactly, or get some industrial strength Velcro to make it removable. I’ve only had it pop off once, but I don’t want it to do that in a war. It’s going to get a PJ sometime, and more cosmetic work. I’ll post and major updates as they come.

I’m convinced that Hasbro designed this just so it couldn’t be modified well. I fired off two clips, and they all went around 40-45’. A good dart sometimes landed at 50’. With the dart tooth mod it’s gotten more reliable, and with chubbier darts it shoots farther more consistently. I haven’t tried with streamlines yet, but when I do I’ll post those ranges.
So it doesn’t look like it’s ever going to be a good primary. I’ve done literally everything I can think of. I do, however, have to say that for indoor wars this gun could be good. It shoots at a wall 25’ away with considerable force, fast enough to make it hard to dodge.
Questions? Comments?
-OfAll’