Any news? I saw this summary of the conversation, but it didn't mention you at all.

What do their children think of their jobs/the blasters they design?
Are there any designs or features they wanted to use, but couldn't due to practical reasons?

3) Will they make rebelle blaster that use the n-strike mags? I think that would make the rebelle line 100 time better than just with turrets and single loaders.

Yes, apparently.

I'd buy a NerfSTRONG one, but I won't use PayPal to pay for it, in case that matters.

This could be useful for people who have blasters in storage, because they could just look up the blaster's weight and weigh the package, and then add them together.

I got these two from past posts in the Trading forum:

• Magstrike: 2 lb 7 oz
• Motorized Ballzooka MP150: 4 lb 15 oz

I think there are some pictures of this blaster's internals in the internals thread, which might help.

I actually like that red and white paintjob. How'd you do it, just drybrushing?

Guys... Do not do remove the resistors.... i did and ran mine at 16.8v.... Didn't last 1 full discharge the motors got burnt in about 10 clips worth of shots... and none of the Tamiya motors work as well as the original (not enough torque).... Not gonna remove the resistors in my Stryfe and imma run it at 12v also.. hopefully that last longer...

That's because you don't know how to use Tamiya motors properly. Also, this thread was almost a year old before you posted in it. I don't know how you could possibly have made such a mistake, because if you found it by searching, you would surely have found the thread I linked.

-Because of the removal of the original hardware, the blaster needs to have the trigger puled until the dart leaves the barrel, otherwise the dart tooth will retract and theoretically jam the blaster.

Why? You just relocated the batteries and trigger. I don't see anything that would cause the mechanical parts to behave differently.

a barrel thats fits really poorly on the stryfe

It seems that most/all barrel extensions fit poorly on the Stryfe. You can make them fit better by gluing some thin plastic to the front of the blue side parts of the Stryfe, next to the muzzle. That should keep the barrel extensions from being loose.

The plot thickens…

Nerf Centurion, Hasbro Response

This was sent to me when I inquired about weather or not Hasbro wanted people posting this info.

"Thanks for checking in before posting. We prefer you do not post this information as it is not from an official source. The blogger who posted about the blaster has misrepresent the information and his relationship and access to Hasbro.

Thanks so much for your understanding and for being a loyal Nerf fan!"

So as far as the misrepresentation goes, I guess we should take what ever info we see with a grain of salt.

source

I don't know how this works but it just does.

Upside-down 'canned air' is a freeze spray. The air inside the cells of the foam, like all gases, shrinks when cooled.

I wouldn't really recommend using this method in a war or HvZ, though. It seems really unwieldy. Also, lots of canned air would get expensive, and it's a greenhouse gas about 1400 times stronger than carbon dioxide (although it no longer damages the ozone layer).

The goal is to meet older gamer demand market.

Will this be part of a new product line, then?

Apparently Simple Green, another cleaning product, also works for this. I saw it long ago on YouTube and can't find the same video again.

Er... Probably not. What is it?

This.

The same motor is available directly from Solarbotics, which might be more convenient for those who live in Canada. (No affiliation other than that I'm from the same city as they are.)

Ordered six, $17ish to my door. I'll be happy to verify these stats in about a week.

You have a PS48, right? Would you be able to compare these with its stock motors?

Those aren't resistors, those would be Zener diodes or polarized capacitors.

No, what makes brushed DC motors directional is phase offset of the commutator, which makes them run more efficiently in the designed-for direction. I have no idea why a motor would have a Zener diode on it, and it shouldn't have a polarized capacitor because it will induct and attempt to charge the capacitor in reverse when power is cut.

20g-cm [of torque]

Let's not start this again.

a 15c constant/25c peak discharge lipo pack

The discharge rate (C number) means nothing without the capacity.

It looks like the teeth are slanted so that there will be a gap between them on the inside, but not on the outside. Why is that?

The point was that kilograms is mass, not force, and that to refer to springs with a mass rating that does not dEffeminatet their mass is ridiculous and inaccurate. Let alone the fact that their is no description of the deflection to achieve that "rating". Things like this are why I would rather wind my own spring than buy from a company like OMW. Now, if they were to give the "rating" in pounds, then that makes more sense, given that the direct assumption would then be that is the weight required to compress the spring.

The obvious response to that is "pounds are also mass and the same assumption goes for kilograms". That's not true, though. The pound in this case is a unit of force. /clarification

I also dislike how springs are rated in kilograms, and I don't think pounds are much better, just because everyone automatically thinks the pound is a unit of mass unless specified otherwise. Newtons per meter would be much better, because then the deflection wouldn't matter, and most people know that newtons are force.

Brushless motors come in all sizes and specs too. I've got a pair for a ducted fan RC airplane that will do 70krpm. But you can get them in an "out-runner" style and my thought was to let the motor body spin as the flywheel itself. This would allow for MUCH more torque, and fw mass, as well as high rpm. But of course the build would require massive reconstruction of the gun internals. Might be better of constructing from scratch. It'd be an expensive build too.

Some laser printers use brushless outrunner motors. I don't know how fast they spin, but they are large and look powerful. To get some, go to your electronics recycling center and disassemble some large laser printers. All of the ones I've seen come with integrated drivers, and are designed for 24 V. Here's a video in which one is connected to a separate driver and presumably driven at a much higher voltage.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_Cx1eTP_8w

What's a BJT?

Bipolar junction transistor, the most basic (as far as I know) type of transistor.

We were thinking about using the stock switches to actuate a BJT to do the switching. However, the BJT will still be dissipating a good amount of heat, so it will need to properly rated and heatsinked as well.

Why would you use a BJT instead of a MOSFET? I thought MOSFETs were more popular for this kind of thing. (MOSFET = metal oxide semiconductor field effect transistor)

The Plunger head of the Stinger is exactly the same as that of the Jolt.

The plunger head is held on with a screw!

I'd like a NerfHaven shirt.

On topic: I haven't been experiencing any noticeable slowness at all apart from searching. Maybe it's because I do most of my browsing late at night.

Edit: Right after I posted that, I tried searching, which was slow, as usual. That's the only slow part of the site for me.

Can someone show me […] how to put them in?

Generally, when you're using self-tapping screws in holes that haven't been tapped yet, you should turn them clockwise for a bit and then back them out a bit, and repeat. That makes the tapping go much more smoothly.

I might as well take my own guess as to what is to come. On your blog you stated that the new blasters blow 75 ft. out of the water, indicating that they may be reaching 100 ft+ angled. Since springers that pass the century mark typically have such beefy springs that children cannot prime them, I'm assuming we will be seeing the comeback of the air tank blaster. However, you also said that the new stuff will blow the Stampede out of the water as well, so I'm going to go as far as to assume that we will finally be getting true, semi-automatic air blasters from Hasbro, or perhaps go as far as to assume full auto, maybe clip compatible air blasters? To see a semi-auto, clip accepting Nerf air tank powered blaster would make my year. This may kind of make sense, however it may be a bit unlikely, but I eagerly await whatever Hasbro has in store for us.

If it's going to be electric, there's no usability reason why it can't have a really strong spring, because the motor, not the user, is going to be priming it.

I was going to say something more, but I can't remember what it was. I'll edit it in if I remember.

What could you possibly lose by opening it?

I don't see how snapping on is going to save you.

It wasn't on that video, plus like I said his dad works for Hasbro on Nerf. According to him, like I said, it's the internet, you don't know who to believe. And on the said of the LongShot, the LongShot is probably, in not, it IS the Best seller and the #1 Nerfer's choice blaster. Everyone loves the LongShot. So therefore, they are most likely going to made an Elite one.

You're overestimating both how much of Hasbro's customer base the NIC makes up, and how many of the NIC like the Longshot. I was under the impression that the Maverick was the best-selling blaster ever. And didn't Hasbro say that they're definitely not going to produce an Elite LS?

Ah, I misunderstood you. I guess I don't know of any adhesives that would make this safe. I have never used superglue in this situation and I was spouting out random crap.
I have a question for everyone: Do you know of any adhesive that could be applied under the felt to make it more durable?

Silicone glue? It's usually pretty flexible.

The nice thing about this system is that you can still pump the tanks after only one burst has been fired without having to worry about over filling the unfired tanks.

You'd only have to pump ~20 times in that case, right?

So its kinda like an oprv in that when one side is pressurized the other side will fill till they are at the same pressure right?

The pump will pressurize the side with lower pressure first. It's not the case that air can flow from one side to the other, though. I'm not sure if that's what you were thinking or not.

I looked at a few of the patents on Bob's list, and added some notes.

"5377655 - topper's gun" is really weird. Was a product like this ever released? I searched for "topper's gun" and "topper's toy gun" and didn't find it.

I can identify those:

A direct plunger style single shot blaster with see-through plunger Mono Blast.
Max Force blaster? No, Xploderz (see later drawings). Max Force uses paper pellets.
Nerf Firevision goggles? I think so.
SuperSoaker of some description Micro Burst.
Different SuperSoaker Electrostorm.
Another SuperSoaker Scatter Blast.

Here's Just Some Bob's list of patents, which he posted in the Longshot reveal thread years ago:

Since others might like to search for more, here's a list I've collected of already known nerfy patent numbers. Lots of people helped put this together, too many to acknowledge individually.

4086902 - lesney toy gun Direct propulsion using a stomp rocket-like foot pump and pneumatic piston
4241716 - ping - pong ball launcher
4892081 - blast - a ball
5113842 - blast - a - matic
5186156 - air operated toy gun
5213089 - electronic toys that shot ultiple darts at once or one ata time via remote Electric Gatling gun and harmonica gun
5224464 - bow n' arrow
5242323 - crossbow (of a sort)
5267549 - master blaster
5332120 - hydro harpoon crossbow
5343849 - ACMAG Demolition man gun 1992 5 balls full auto(Mattel)
5343850 - weird arrow shooter with nflatable bed - like pump
5373832 - Johnson research designer unmaid gun Large six-shot revolver with an air bladder
5373833 - projectile shooting gun with bladder(johnson) Bruce M D'Andrade(Now at Johnson)
5377655 - topper's gun Manual and spring plungers that detach into separate blasters; shoots balls, arrows, and gliders; has sharp bayonet
5377656 - hydrobazooka
5471968 - missile launcher Folding double stomp rocket
5522374 - refinement of 5186156
5529050 - method for making a gun shoot only certain ammo(sm500 pictured)Larami version
5531210 - eagle eye
5535729 - rattler(mechanism for rachetblast established)
5605140 - secret shot
5622159 - RAW guns like rangeshot I've never heard of a RAW Rangeshot, and this looks like no RAW I've seen (though I've only seen The Force and The Attack)
5653215 - ultimator(maximizer also)
5660159 - razorbeast
5680853 - advance mech (Sawtooth/Eel?) Some of the same drawings as 5522374
5701878 - whiptail scorpion
5711285 - strongarm
5715802 - perceptor
5724954 - venom shot
5724955 - voice activated toy gun w/ six barrels(johnson research) A variation on the RF20/Wildfire with the bladder on top, and a head-mounted six-shooter; also contains schematic and detailed description of voice trigger circuit
5738079 - manta ray
5878734 - nitroquad
5901693 - monoblast
5944006 - expand - a - blast
5970970 - tornado and x/2
5975068 - lock n' load
5988152 - ripchord
6048280 - luminescing projectile(sharpshooter pictured) electric eel used or patent
6067975 - pulsator
6076513 - big bad bow
6079398 - vortex firestorm
6119671 - secret shot 2
6152123 - powerstrike and little vortex guns
6203397 - switch shots series(super)
6276353 - ball launcher( high pressure) Whatever it is, it's really weird
6279562 - toy gun (unreleased) with mltiple discharge ports(clayton) X-Wing blaster and SuperMaxx-style blaster with rotation mechanisms that control air delivery
6408837 - toy gun with circular magazine(johnson)
6439216 - electronic self pumping automatic fluid gun(Johnson) Mechanical parts of blasters shown in voice trigger patent; shows RF20/Wildfire piston mechanism and pneumatic circuits
6460527 - leaf like launcher Projectile with flexible parts that act as propulsion springs; similar to small projectiles used by Lego (no leaves in sight)
6523535 - gyrostrike
6648726 - light storm and L/2
6698414 - liquitron gauge patent(airtech 3000 etc.)
6733356 - spinning plastic projectile launcher Shoots helicopter rotor-like projectiles spun by a hexagonal shaft (which was also used in some Lego Bionicle launchers)
6915793 - Automatic vortex - like gun Flywheel blaster for Koosh Vortex rings
7287526 - Scout Seems to have the same content as 7481209 posted by Jeo, but older and with bigger drawings

"Dad's New Accord" from the Happy Honda Days series. My first thought when I started looking at Honda's ads was that it was from the Things Can Always Be Better series, because it seemed to fit that theme, but that was not correct.

If you wear glasses, those don't work.

These: 9741T411 are awesome, and they slip right onto your frames. They meet ANSI standards for safety glasses, and they work as advertised. I don't know of anywhere else that sells them.

I think you meant to link to something else, because that's the same thing as the first glasses you mentioned.

I don't know if you can use an RC charger. As far as I know, nobody's tried it; everyone uses the TrustFire charger.

If the gear's made of ABS, you could try strengthening it by sticking it in boiling water for a few minutes and then cooling it in cool water. Of course, that will only help gears that aren't yet broken.

Stop using them and recharge them when you notice a decrease in performance. Lots of people charge them and then play a week-long HvZ game before charging them again.

I'm pretty sure the version with the angled handle is discontinued, and this is the new version. It's the only one I could find on Cobra's website.

Ummm... well... give [by give, I meant suggest] me a particular direct plunger gun you would prefer I use. I'll tear one open and mock up the plunger... see if I can adapt it in there. Maybe there will be two editions-- the pure Maverick one, and the one that accepts a plunger from a different weapon.

I have a Recon handy... so if that plunger is a good pick, I'll get on it.

I don't recommend the Recon; it has an inverse plunger too, and it's about the same size, so I don't think it would be an improvement. The difficult thing is finding a plunger system that will fit in the same space. Maybe a Retaliator/Rampage plunger would work. It would be quite expensive, though, to have to buy two blasters to make one of these.

I was actually imagining a homemade direct plunger that people could make and install themselves. A mod to your stock blaster, if you will. You could make it quite a bit easier to install a larger plunger just by widening the inside of the shell in that area enough to accomodate a NF plunger, for example. (I just thought of that because NiteMavs are somewhat popular, but the Maverick shell has to be widened or replaced to accommodate the larger plunger diameter.)

On the other hand, as much as I'd like a direct plunger, I'd much rather use your current design than a regular Maverick.

Instead of the priming slide, because 1 or 2 people were saying it was small, make the priming like a nitefinder/tech target. You already have the straw plunger end sticking out so just extend that and put some kind of loop to pull on. Hell, you can even make a custom attachment to add the the front to make it like a crossbow kinda. Around the same concept of some peoples nitefinders, they put a rubber band from the loop to the front to help the plunger compress even faster.

Bungees/rubber bands wouldn't be compatible with the turret rotation being linked to the priming slide. The slide needs to be cycled all the way back and forward again before the trigger is pulled (as with the Spectre). Maybe there could be a post on the back of the plunger, separate from the priming grip, that could have external springs attached.

On the other hand, I could be completely misinterpreting your suggestion. What do you mean by "straw plunger end"?

if you're making the front compatible with Nerf attachments, why not go for broke and make the back compatible with Nerf stocks?

My opinion: if a stock mount was added above the priming grip, it would make priming very difficult; if one was added behind the priming grip, it would likely be very ugly. (I guess the shell could be tapered outward to the stock mount's size, which would be a little nicer-looking but would add length.)

The creaking noise is caused by parts rubbing against each other, right? I suggest (though IDK if it's actually a good idea*) lubricating all contact surfaces between the shell halves and between the shell and internals, except for the parts that require friction (if there are any; it's been a while since I've looked inside a LS). It won't make the shell less flexible but it will let it flex more quietly.

*I have a vague memory of someone suggesting this on here in the past, but I can't find it again, and I don't remember if it was ever tried.