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Nerf Rayven - Mod Guide!

Semi-auto + clip-fed + stefan-compatible!

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#1 SgNerf

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 12:58 PM

With the Nerf Rayven starting to pop up in stores, hopefully this guide can serve as a starting reference for those keen on tinkering with this blaster.

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This Mod Guide will cover some performance mods for the Nerf Rayven.

Mods covered:
- Voltage Increase
- Stefan Compatibility
- Access Hatch Removal

Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!


:: Voltage Increase ::

As the Rayven is a flywheel based blaster, the faster the flywheel motors spin the faster foam darts get fired out, hence longer range and faster dart velocity.

To increase the speed of the motors, simply increase the voltage feed.

In my examples, i use 14500 size 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable Batteries (Brand: TrustFire / Unprotected versions) in my modded Barricades. The batteries can be sourced from specialist electronics stores or online sites.

14500 size 3.7V Li-Ion TrustFire rechargeable batteries are usually charged up to 4.2V, so i use various configurations (along with dummy AA batteries to fill in the empty slots if required).

The Rayven has 4 x battery slots (one slot more than in a Barricade), this allows for additional voltage increase options without the need to mod the battery compartment.

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In the photo above (from left to right), the voltage configurations are at 8.4V, 12.6V and 16.8V.

I have noticed that the Rayven's stock motors can run on 16.8V without the inbuilt safety thermistor cutting off the power, therefore it seems to have a much higher voltage and current tolerance than compared to the Barricade.

See the test fire video below for the range results based on these various increased voltages.

Note that normal Alkaline batteries have limited discharge rates, and may therefore perform differently at the same voltage compared to these unprotected TrustFire Li-Ion batteries.


:: Stefan Compatibility & Access hatch Removal ::

As most experienced nerfers will know, stock streamline foam darts are too unbalanced and inconsistent to be usable in Nerf games, especially with modded blasters. They naturally tend to swerve unpredictably in flight. There isn't much point shooting far when the shots can't actually hit anything reliably.

Most modders prefer to use "stefans" instead (short length customized and calibrated foam darts), as they provide more consistent performance and much higher accuracy. For clip-fed blasters, stefan compatible clips would be required.

For reference, you can find an example of a stefan compatible clip using the "guide rod" design Here.

We shall now look into modding the Rayven to be able to fire stefans. At the same time, removing the access hatch to allow for a clearer view of the firing process and for quicker jam clearing.


Step 1: Disassemble your Rayven. Make sure to remove all the screws before detaching the casing and internal components.

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Step 2: Remove the dart pusher stalk and drill a hole through the middle of it. Prepare a suitable length of bolt to become a "stalk extender".

In my example, i used a 4cm length threaded steel bolt.

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Step 3: Install the bolt into the dart pusher stalk. Use a bolt nut to secure it properly.

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If required, this "stalk extender" mod is easily reversible, simply uninstall the bolt to revert it back to stock condition and you can use normal length foam darts again.


Step 4: Remove the access hatch piece. Use a strip of tape to wrap around the pressure switch so that it is kept activated. This mod is also reversible too.

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Step 5: Install all the parts back into the casing. It should look like this.

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Step 6: Adjust the reach of the new "stalk extender" so that it can push the stefans forward properly.

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Step 7: For those who create their stefan clips using the "guide rod" design, you will need to extend the guide rod higher until it reaches just below the top-most stefan, this is the prevent the moving dart pusher stalk from dragging subsequent advancing stefans too far back during usage and causing jams.

In my example, i used a short length of wooden rod wedged into my stefan clip's existing guide rod. This is also easily uninstalled, so that it can still be usable for other clip-fed blasters too.

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Step 8: Its completed!

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Now you have a semi-auto + clip-fed + stefan-compatible blaster!


:: Modified Nerf Rayven - Demo & Range Test Video ::

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uk48DAhuScg

Notice that the streamlines have a much wider left/right shot spread radius, so they tend to be rather inaccurate at longer ranges.

Calibrated stefans have a much narrower left/right shot spread radius, so their overall accuracy is much better and more consistent.

Also note that there is a fair amount of range variation when the blaster is fired quickly, this is likely due to the flywheels slowing down momentarily between each shot, therefore the key to firing such blasters is to regulate the rate-of-fire for more consistent ranges.

In addition, at higher voltages like 16.8V, the flywheels spin so fast that there tends to be an increased rate of slippage and mis-fires, which results in rather unpredictable shots.

So far in my tests, i've found the most ideal voltage to be at 12.6V for a more reliable combination of improved range and shot consistency.


:: Sample Test Fire Data ::

Ranges are PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation).
Distance is measured at where the shot lands (Average of 18 shots).

Stock Rayven (6.0 Volts)
Range = 25-30 ft

Modded Rayven (8.4 Volts)
Range = 35-45 ft

Modded Rayven (12.6 Volts)
Range = 60-70ft

Modded Rayven (16.8 Volts)
Range = 80-100ft

Note that the tests were done under controlled conditions with either stock streamlines or calibrated stefans. The results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).


:: Summary & Game Usage ::

Having tested out modded Rayvens in a few Nerf games, i've found it to be quite a versatile blaster for fast-paced gameplay. Its compact form factor is easy to handle and very maneuverable.

The clip-fed system makes a big difference in being able to sustain continuous firepower over extended game rounds (just be sure to equip more spare clips), and the capability to use stefans greatly increases the shot accuracy and hit rate over longer firing distances.

In addition, you can instantly double the fun by dual-wielding 2 x modded Rayvens too! :lol:

Edited by SgNerf, 25 January 2012 - 01:33 PM.

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#2 Eraser475

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 01:33 PM

It must really scream at 16.8 volts! This is awesome! I can't wait to get one!

Edited by Eraser475, 29 December 2011 - 01:35 PM.

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#3 DudeRadster

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 03:08 PM

80-100 ft from a FLYWHEEL?

Do I smell integration?
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#4 ThatBritishGuy

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 04:28 AM

How long do you think the motors will last running at 16.8V?

Great mod guide as well. Im sure i'll see these in HvZ dual wielded.
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#5 SgNerf

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 07:53 AM

How long do you think the motors will last running at 16.8V?

Great mod guide as well. Im sure i'll see these in HvZ dual wielded.

Thanks!

From my tests, i've found that if the motors are run at 16.8V for prolonged bursts (ie. firing 2-3 clips continuously), i could start to smell the motors overheating. So i guess the motors would wear out much quicker if used that way.

12.6V seems to be more stable, the motors don't overheat as quickly at that voltage.
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#6 Foam of Grianter

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 04:06 PM

Hmmm... It's kinda weird how Hasbro didn't classify this as an ECS gun... I mean if the Barricade is an RV instead of REV this should be ECS instead of Cs
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#7 Uncle Hammer

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Posted 14 January 2012 - 02:17 AM

80-100 ft from a FLYWHEEL?

Do I smell integration?


More like ozone.
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#8 vaan

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Posted 19 January 2012 - 08:28 AM

I was wondering if you could use a mixture of akaline and li-on batteries or would using let's say 2 li-ons and 2 alkalines for a total of 11.4 v not work?
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#9 238232

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Posted 19 January 2012 - 10:07 AM

Mixing partially charged and fully charged batteries is generally unsafe and not recommended. Mixing different chemistries is even more unsafe. Discharge rates will be uneven, and alkalines aren't known for being able to sustain a high current. Possible results can include the alkalines reverse charging (not that they were meant to be recharged in the first place!), resulting in leaks and heating. The Li-ions might go bad as well (results include fires/explosions), but I'd say the alkalines would die first.

In short, while it might work to get that voltage, I'd really not recommend it...
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#10 vaan

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Posted 19 January 2012 - 11:51 PM

I found 3.2v LiFePo4 batteries, 14500 size, would they work as well for this application? ( sorry for the questions, im just not good with bbatteries ) or is there something I should worry about before using them?
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#11 238232

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 06:07 AM

Hmm.... LiFePo4s generally have a lower discharge rate than LiCoO2s (the normal kind), but are safer in that they don't explode/burn if mistreated. You've probably noticed this, but bear in mind that you can't just charge them to 4.2 V like regular Li-ions, their maximum voltage is around 3.6 or 3.7 V. A hobby charger can be programmed for this, but watch out for the cheaper chargers which are set to work only with LiCos...
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#12 vaan

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 11:03 AM

We'll my plan was to use 3 of the them to acheive 9.6-10.8V ( depending on what they are charged at) since i play indoors, i don't need the 60+ feet ranges, but around 45-55ft is perfect.
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#13 Guitarzan

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 03:53 PM

I just got my Rayven and I love the thing! I haven't tinkered with it yet but I figured I'd ask you a few questions because you're already the expert on it. The trigger is a pain in the but to pull, so do you think it would be possible to weaken the return spring on the "dart pusher" and make the trigger easier to pull, while maintaining all of its functionality?

And could you provide a link to where you bought those blank batteries? Those are cool.
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#14 cmeej

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 05:27 PM

I've been in a running argument with someone who says a Rayven can't reach century ranges. Thank you for proving them wrong :P
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#15 CaelynTek

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 01:24 PM

In my examples, i use 14500 size 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable Batteries (Brand: TrustFire / Unprotected versions) in my modded Barricades. The batteries can be sourced from specialist electronics stores or online sites.

14500 size 3.7V Li-Ion TrustFire rechargeable batteries are usually charged up to 4.2V, so i use various configurations (along with dummy AA batteries to fill in the empty slots if required).


I know it's been a while since you posted this, but can I ask, where did you get your dummy AA cells? I'm having trouble finding them for a reasonable price.

Also, I assume you are using a hobby charger for the Trustfires, but it sounds like you're using a programmable charger, do you think an auto-peak charger would work with the trustfires?

Thanks
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#16 Daniel Beaver

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 05:13 PM

Please do not necro old posts unless you have something to add to the topic. Questions for the original poster should be sent via PM if the thread has been inactive for several months.

Dummy AA batteries can be found at online electronics supply stores, as well as on eBay. Amazon doesn't seem to stock them, which seems odd, but they are sort of a specialty item.

Edited by Daniel Beaver, 09 May 2012 - 05:17 PM.

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#17 SgtSniper

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 06:15 PM

He made them out of AAA to AA adapters with some wire soldered on the inside leads.
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#18 SgNerf

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 06:51 AM

Also, I assume you are using a hobby charger for the Trustfires, but it sounds like you're using a programmable charger, do you think an auto-peak charger would work with the trustfires?


I use the TrustFire TR-001 Li-Ion charger, its designed to auto-shut off when the batteries are charged up to 4.2V.

Here is a link to it: TrustFire TR-001 Charger

Not too sure about auto-peak chargers though, i guess you'll have to check and see if they are compatible with Li-Ion batteries too.

Edited by SgNerf, 17 May 2012 - 07:03 AM.

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#19 epical

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 08:25 AM

Guys... Do not do remove the resistors.... i did and ran mine at 16.8v.... Didn't last 1 full discharge the motors got burnt in about 10 clips worth of shots... and none of the Tamiya motors work as well as the original (not enough torque).... Not gonna remove the resistors in my Stryfe and imma run it at 12v also.. hopefully that last longer...

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Edited by Zorn's Lemma, 17 March 2013 - 12:29 AM.

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#20 Crater

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Posted 17 March 2013 - 12:21 AM

Guys... Do not do remove the resistors.... i did and ran mine at 16.8v.... Didn't last 1 full discharge the motors got burnt in about 10 clips worth of shots... and none of the Tamiya motors work as well as the original (not enough torque).... Not gonna remove the resistors in my Stryfe and imma run it at 12v also.. hopefully that last longer...

That's because you don't know how to use Tamiya motors properly. Also, this thread was almost a year old before you posted in it. I don't know how you could possibly have made such a mistake, because if you found it by searching, you would surely have found the thread I linked.
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